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Philadelphia Museum of Art Only U.S. Venue Hosting Judith Joy Ross’ Photography Retrospective

Philadelphia Museum of Art Only U.S. Venue Hosting Judith Joy Ross’ Photography Retrospective

PHILADELPHIA (WPVI) — Judith Joy Ross’ photography exhibition at the Philadelphia Museum of Art will transport you to decades past.

Peter Barberie, Brodsky Curator of Photographs at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, says this body of Ross’ work “gives us a portrait of who we are in our time and place.”

Over 200 prints are on display; many of them made in Eastern Pennsylvania.

Joshua Chuang, Organizing Curator, says Ross first discovered photography at Moore College of Art.

“Straightforward photography captured my heart,” says photographer Ross.

Ross says she went out and photographed people and that when she took strangers’ photographs, she was intensely relating to them.

Ross works in series and the exhibition starts with Eurana Park, which Chuang says “is the park that she and her siblings went to when they were children.”

Ross calls the park kind of a Brigadoon.

Her portraits capture the human experience.

“We encounter all of these individuals who are just facing everyday life,” says Barberie. “Every photograph is a very brief exchange between two strangers who are sort of united by the big camera between them.”

Ross used an old-fashioned 8×10-inch view camera on a tripod to take photos.

Ross describes her photographs as “direct and honest and evocative.”

One of her longest running series is called Jobs. There are photographs of people at work in their uniforms, along with members of the military.

Chuang says Ross’ pictures have amazing emotional depth that match “the complexity of her subjects.”

Ross also photographed inside Hazleton public schools where she grew up.

“I wanted to help support people caring about children,” she says.

She’s also photographed visitors to the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in D.C. and members of Congress.

As you walk through the exhibition, you can see the progression of Ross’ work over the years.

“It’s quite epic in its arc, when you think about American history over the past 50 years,” Chuang says.

“I’m focused on looking until the world makes more sense and I see something,” says Ross. “When you get the frame right, you found meaning.”

“I hope people can connect with these people,” she says of her work.

Judith Joy Ross’ retrospective exhibition is on view through August 6.

Judith Joy Ross Photography exhibition/

Philadelphia Museum of Art

2600 Benjamin Franklin Parkway, Philadelphia, PA 19130

Capturing the spirit of the vanishing West: The open range photography of Charles E. Morris

Capturing the spirit of the vanishing West: The open range photography of Charles E. Morris

As I wrote in my very first book, a sort of postcard history of Fort Benton, around the turn of the 20th century a new means of communications sprung to life.

As a time-saving alternative to formal letters, a century ago postcards became essentially today’s email.

In 2009, I wrote in the “Introduction to Fort Benton”:

“Today it is difficult to appreciate the widespread use of postcards when they were first in use one century ago. The Daily Missoulian in 1911 wrote: ‘Picture postcards have been like a delightful vice that we first endured, pitied, then embraced. We were inclined to regard the first crude output of them as make-shifts for the lazy and picture cards for the children. Little by little they got in their insidious work — they were such blessed time-savers, they were such inexpensive souvenirs for the folks at home, they were such suggestive mementos of travel. And now we have found that there is no end to their uses, and we buy them by the cartload.”

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At the very same time as Charlie Russell was word-painting his way from working cowboy to international fame, another Texas and Montana working cowboy, Charles E. Morris, began recording on photographic plates what Charlie was portraying on canvas. Both presented a way of life that was vanishing with the end of the open range.

Charles Morris photographed working cowboys during the last great roundups of the open range, massive herds of cattle on a thousand hills, large flocks of sheep with their herders, Native Americans in their traditional adornments, and the last of the frontier military in the West.



Photo 1 True Free Spirit Charles E  Morris.tif

Morris’s winning photograph in St. Louis Cowboy on a Bucking Bronco” graces the cover of “True, Free Spirit: Charles E. Morris, Cowboy/Photographer of the Old West.” 




In the fall of 1999, Morris’s son, William A. “Bill” Morris, with able editing by his daughter Pamela, published “True, Free Spirit: a Biography of Charles E. Morris, Cowboy/ Photographer of the Old West.” This was a labor of love and Bill’s last hope to preserve the photographic works of his pioneering father. In Bill’s words:

“Old-timers recall with fondness and pride the work of Chas. E. Morris, whose pictures both accurately and artistically portray the two decades which bridge the 19th and 20th centuries. My father knew as friends, early cattlemen, sheepmen, and Indians of this (northcentral) part of the state. He photographed their herds at roundups, their lands, and their families. In later years, friends spent many hours at his store reminiscing of their days on the range. Morris’ photos graced the walls of their homes. Throughout the world they mailed Morris postcards of their West.

“In the past several decades, however, many people have enjoyed Chas. E. Morris photos without knowing the identity of the artist photographer. Numerous western books contain my father’s photographs. Morris postcards have now become collectors’ items.

“During 30 years of research on my father’s photographs, I identified individuals, their homes, and their ranches; I found stories that led to anecdotes and nicknames, and, in the process, I gained a greater appreciation for the native West. Thus, my dream has been to fill in a true pictorial gap of an era, to memorialize the freely chosen work of a remarkable photographer and to honor the spirit of my father Charles E. Morris.”

In a glowing tribute to Charles E. Morris, Gene M. Gressley, founding director of the American Heritage Center at the University of Wyoming, put Charles Morris in the perspective of his time:

As the American West opened up, it produced in the nation at large an insatiable curiosity for this vast, beautiful, raw land. . . Charles Morris came onto this scene as a wrangler and photographer hobbyist. From the first, it was the intensive detail to recording the range life that fascinated Morris. He was devoted to recording the frustrations and weariness that he discovered in the countenances at dawn’s break, or around the evening campfire. Sturdy, forthright, individualistic faces, sometimes passive, sometimes expressive — all were subject for his camera. But, above all, their images had integrity and enchanted the viewer, for Charlie Morris possessed perhaps the valuable trait for any photographer — patience.

… Many of Morris’ views were harsh, direct, compelling — he left little room for … romance visions. Morris was not interested in portraying the life of imagination. Rather, he maintained a hard, uncompromising examination when it came to selecting his next portrait be it of land or of man. . .

No one had to tell Charlie Morris to love the land but that emotion was tempered in Morris by his knowledge of how vicious, demanding and unyielding that land could be in a January blizzard or in a prairie fire in July — a land that could transform your soul, but at the same time sear that very soul by the extremes of its climatic ferocity. . .

If the viewer demonstrates the same patience as the photographer — the rewards will be significant. Morris’ devotion to catching all facets of range life is embossed on every negative. The accouterments of his camp colleagues are there for all of us to see and appreciate. Artifacts such as the wide brimmed hats, so favored by Texans; a Meanes saddle, which many a cowboy oiled with loving care; mule eared boots, worn until the holes showed through the leather; spurs of all sizes, the design of which revealed much about the geography of the wearer; elaborate buckskin roping gloves perhaps the creation of a Northern Cheyenne; the mixture of long and short horn cattle of Texas or Oregon derivation mulling about in a distant range; and the quarter horse and his less frequent companion the Morgan at rest in a remuda — all parade before our eyes.

Charlie Morris has left us a pictorial legacy, as valuable as Granville Stuart did for our literary heritage.

Charlie helps his young friend

Charles M. Russell and Charles E. Morris worked the range in the same frontier country of northern Montana. Both rode the range, before capturing it: “Kid Russell” on canvas and in words; “Texas Kid” Morris with his scenes on glass plates and negatives.

As the time of the World’s Fair in 1904 approached, Charlie Russell urged his friend Charles Morris to travel to St. Louis. This was sound advice, since at the great Lewis and Clark’s Centennial Exhibition there, Morris entered the winning photograph “Cowboy on a Bucking Bronco” enhancing his role as an exceptional photographer of the open range. The cowboy in that scene was Roy Mathieson, on a bucking bronco; all four of the horse’s legs were off the ground when Morris snapped the shot. This photo became Morris’ iconic trademark.

Later, Morris photographed Charlie at his log cabin studio in Great Falls and marketed postcards of Russell’s works including the “Waiting for a Chinook.” Historian Harold McCracken declared that the postcards drawn by the “Cowboy” Artist and distributed by Morris, “no doubt did more than anything else” to fuel Russell’s rise to fame as a great western artist.

Becoming a wrangler and photographer

Charles E. Morris was born in Glendale, Maryland, on June 29, 1876, just three days after the demise of Col. Custer and his 7th Cavalry in Montana Territory.



Charles E. Morris.tif

Charles E. Morris




In 1890, Morris came West by way of Fort Worth, Texas, and in 1894 on to northern Montana’s Milk River country, where the young “Texas Kid” became a range rider. Around 1900 he acquired a small camera, and during the winter of 1903, after riding for McNamara & Marlow, a large stock outfit, Morris went to LaCrosse, Wisconsin, where he took a course in photography. While there, he married Helen Schroeder and returned to Montana with his bride, settling in Chinook. From there, he began constant travel in a buckboard, visiting ranches to photograph families, babies, newlyweds, and dramatic western scenes, such as roundups, branding, roping.

Morris found a ready market when he sent his negatives to Germany where many were hand-tinted in color, then lithographed, and printed on the widely popular new means of communications, postcards. His western scenes found a ready market on the back of postcards, sold in stores throughout Montana and in the East.



Photo 1 True Free Spirit Charles E  Morris.tif

Morris’s winning photograph in St. Louis Cowboy on a Bucking Bronco” graces the cover of “True, Free Spirit: Charles E. Morris, Cowboy/Photographer of the Old West.” 




In 1911, the Morris family left Chinook and moved to Great Falls. Morris continued to photograph the West including many scenes around his new home city until after World War I. Bank failures caused his studio to go broke, so Morris packed up his photographic equipment, glass plates and negatives, and stored them away in a metal trunk. For the next three decades, Morris operated, first, Charlie E. Morris Stationery Co., and then Morris Sporting Goods Co.

Charles E. Morris passed away May 16, 1938. Now more than a century after he photographed the last of the open range era, his legacy lives on through the color postcard scenes recording ranching, Native Americans, homesteading, and the frontier military. Today, those color ranch scenes on Morris postcards are widely popular with collectors —they buy them by the cartload.

His open range photographs are a fitting legacy for a Montana range rider and pioneer photographer.

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ATW Penn–British photographer who captured 19th-century South India in his portraits

ATW Penn–British photographer who captured 19th-century South India in his portraits

A British photographer from Somerset, UK, who worked and lived in Ootacamund (now Udagamandalam; better known as Ooty) and Coonoor in British India, Albert Thomas Watson Penn operated largely outside of formal systems of photography such as societies and institutions, and its conventions and styles. He spent most of his life in the Nilgiris in southern India, where he worked as a commercial photographer, occasionally also contributing to ethnographic studies of the area.

Penn left his family home in Street, UK, shortly before turning twelve and, after a brief period in London, arrived in Madras (now Chennai) by 1864. He worked at the photography studio *Nicholas Brothers & Co., before moving to Ooty in 1865 to set up and operate a branch there. He married Elizabeth Eagan in 1870 and continued working there until he acquired the studio five years later, subsequently running it under his name. In 1877, a year after the onset of the Great Famine of South India, his business in Ooty slowed and he took his practice to Bangalore, where he photographed the cantonment and the relief work being carried out.

The following year, he travelled to the UK to learn more about photographic techniques and technology. When he returned the next year, he shut down the branch he had started in Bangalore in order to focus on his studio in Ooty, where business had again picked up, and which in 1880 he renamed as the Ootacamund Photo Establishment. In the decade that followed, he undertook two major photographic tours of South India. In 1902, Penn opened Reliance Auction and Commission Agency, through which he made regular sales for at least ten years after, while also running the Farrington Hotel for an indeterminate period. He left Ooty with his family in 1911 for Eversholt, England, but returned to India in 1922 to Coonoor, where he spent his last two years before succumbing to a stroke.


Also read: Bleeding Madras, George Cloth – How ‘Real Madras Handkerchiefs’ gained global popularity


Unlike many British photographers in India at the time, Penn did not affiliate himself with photographic societies or institutions such as the *Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). As a commercial photographer, his earnings came from portraits and group photographs of the British population in Ooty, Coonoor and other neighbouring hill stations. He took several of his photographs at social events such as dance balls, weddings and hunting trips and at recreational clubs where Penn was a member. He also produced landscape views of the hills around Ooty that were reminiscent in composition and style of European mountainscapes popular in Britain, in contrast to the architectural and topographic views typical of colonial photographers of the time. His panoramic photographs — which were made by joining multiple images — as well as the smaller pictures he made for printing on postcards enjoyed much popularity.

As a large proportion of the town’s population comprised visiting tourists and seasonal residents he had a constant clientele, enabling him to earn a steady annual income. His constant presence in British social circles and active participation in their recreational activities — such as hunts (he was an amateur rifle shot), athletic events, choral performances and concerts — contributed a great deal to the sustained patronage his studio received. His photographs of these events were often published in local or regional papers such as The South of India Observer or The Madras Mail.

Penn also accepted commissions for ethnographic studies of the native population of the region, which featured in such notable volumes as Ootacamund, a History (1908) by Frederick Price and Castes and Tribes of Southern India (1909) by Edgar Thurston. His images were notably different from others produced at the time: he photographed his subjects — mainly members of the indigenous Kurumba and Toda communities — as if in the course of their daily activities, such as farming, foraging, cattle-herding and even professional grooming, rather than in the static and heavily staged style that was the norm then. His photographs of Dancing Girls slumped from exhaustion or casual images of himself with his friends are just some examples of his commitment to journalistic documentation, which can be seen as early as 1876 in his work on the Great Famine of South India.

A Toda Man, ATW Penn, British, c. 1860s, Albumen silver print | Image courtesyof The J. Paul Getty Museum, Los Angeles
A Toda Man, ATW Penn, British, c. 1860s, Albumen silver print | Image courtesy of The J. Paul Getty Museum, Los Angeles

As he lived and worked far from the urban centres of colonial rule and rarely engaged with surveyors or institutions, Penn’s life has not come under much historical scrutiny. His biographical details in The Nicholas Brothers & A.T.W Penn: Photographers of South India 1855-1885, by his great-grandson Christopher Penn, were pieced together from press clippings, publications bearing his photographs and correspondences. Although Penn was a photographer of renown only in the local social and administrative circles, his photographs have since gained a wider audience. Now found in collections across Europe –– from Paris to Vienna and Berlin the largest number of his photographs are presently found in institutions in the UK, such as the *British Museum, the Royal Geographical Society and the National Army Museum.

This excerpt is taken from MAP Academy’s ‘Encyclopedia of Art’ with permission.

The MAP Academy is a non-profit, online platform — consisting of an Encyclopedia, Courses and a Blog — which encourages knowledge building and engagement with the visual arts of the region.

‘I feel love’: Nicholas Blair’s images of gay joy and defiance in 80s America

‘I feel love’: Nicholas Blair’s images of gay joy and defiance in 80s America

When Nicholas Blair first showed me his photographs for the book Castro to Christopher: Gay Streets of America 1979-1986, I had many thoughts. But, I admit, the one that pushed to the forefront right away was: “Why am I not in any of them?”

I was only half joking.

Back at that benighted time in LGBTQ+ history – way before anyone added the “T”, the “Q” or the “+” – the streets that Blair’s title refers to, San Francisco’s Castro District and New York’s Christopher Street, were occupied by what would now seem like a shockingly circumscribed group of people. On any given weekend on Christopher Street, Manhattan, where I could reliably be found, nearly every person you saw you either knew, recognised, or had already had sex with. While Gay Pride marches would bring tens of thousands of us to the streets every year, on all other days our footprint was relatively small, insular and every bit as site-specific as the title of Blair’s book suggests.

A couple kissing and three men standing in the background

In the era of these photos, nearly everything that was commonly considered “gay” either happened on these streets or was connected to them. Buttressed by the bars, those streets were the only places where you could reliably meet significant numbers of people like you, announce yourself to them by your gaze and your gait, tease and befriend them, spawn a community with them and, naturally, meet them for sex. The more adventurous among us even had sex with them right then and there.

Men dressed as cheerleaders with the letters on their sweaters spelling out F-U-C

The result was that those streets of San Francisco and New York had a special frisson and freedom. They were as teeming with eros and interaction then as today they are isolating and alienating, thanks to our smartphone myopia. Luckily, that special world can be seen in all its heat, humour and intimacy in Blair’s photos. One image in his book has elements of all three: in the foreground two figures are kissing. Behind them stand three men, each looking in a different direction yet all driven by the same goal – to see and be seen. Each is presenting and searching, preening and praying. Their expressions may be soldier straight and hunter cold, but below lies fire.

The humour and edge of those streets is seen in high relief in an image of two leather daddies in full chaps drawing money from an ATM. It presents a perfect contrast between mundane and profane. And, make no mistake, a joyous embrace of the profane had a profound role in many of our lives in those years, way before such unimaginable things would occur as same-sex marriage, parenthood or even personhood. Back then, the gay world still had the thrill of outlaw culture, though, sadly, that came with the consequence of making us targets for everything from cruel taunts to life-threatening bashings. While Blair’s photos focus on celebrating the culture, anyone who was on the scene at the time could see beyond the frame, where danger always lay in wait. While it was common to hear the term “faggot” hurled in your direction back then, I never heard or read the term “homophobia”. There’s a simple reason for that. Most people back then didn’t think there was anything the least bit wrong in treating gay people with revulsion.

Men dressed in leather getting money at a cash machine

Despite that, those times brimmed with possibility and excitement. The era of these photos gains even more poignancy since it straddles the time just before Aids and the years when the disease threatened to wipe out gay people entirely. For that reason, and others, it’s impossible not to look at these photos without a profound sense of loss. But that’s hardly all I feel when I look at them. I also feel warmth and wit. I feel invention and defiance and, to quote Saint Donna (Summer), “I feel love”.

Men standing under umbrellas while another man stretches in the open window of a house behind them

In the end, I do see myself in these photos, reflected in my connection to a sensibility and an experience that, however far removed from the current world, remains embedded in something eternal: history.

‘Be original or die!’ How a suffragette sparked an upper-class craze for surrealism

‘Be original or die!’ How a suffragette sparked an upper-class craze for surrealism

On January 5, 1893, a doctor dressed as a courtier to Louis XVI stopped on his way to a costume ball to deliver a baby girl. This was prescient. When that girl grew up she achieved fame for her photographs of society women in fancy dress: goddesses, harlequins, sprites. Ever the innovator, like Beyoncé or Madonna today, Yevonde Cumbers went simply by Yevonde (occasionally preceded by Madame). At a time when serious photography was, in the main, black and white, in an address to the Royal Photographic Society in 1936, she declared: “‘Be original or die’ would be a good motto for photographers to adopt; let them put life and colour into their work!” 

Yevonde: Life and Colour opens at the revamped National Portrait Gallery on Thursday and will feature a comprehensive selection of works dreamed up by this brilliant artist across a 60-year-career. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more joyful show anywhere in the country.

From an early age, Yevonde loved dressing up. She was educated at Lingholt, a progressive boarding school, became a suffragette and was “finished” in Paris. On graduation, she decided to earn her own living. The question was, how? In 1911, an advertisement in the feminist newspaper Votes for Women paved the way: “Miss Lena Connell, Photographer, 50 Grove Road, St John’s Wood, has a vacancy for Young Lady Pupil – Write or call between 3 and 5.” Yevonde called, and was entranced by Connell’s studio, filled with picture postcards of leading suffragettes. Although Yevonde didn’t take the job – the trip up from Bromley was just too tiring, she thought – her interest was piqued. She contacted the popular portrait photographer Lallie Charles at her rose-hued Mayfair studio and asked for work: her wish was granted and she was on her way. In 1914, after having only taken one photograph, and with, in her words, “the supreme recklessness of the very young”, Yevonde, supported by her father – director of a printing ink manufacturer – set up her own studio. She remembered: “In almost any other job I must have failed, but by great good luck I had adopted an art-trade-profession-science – that, like myself, was not properly ‘grown up’.” She threw herself into her chosen profession; years later she observed that “photography as a career for women is full of fascination, and offers excellent chances to any girl with originality, energy and grit”. 

Charting the uncharted: self-portrait with “one-shot” Vivex camera


Charting the uncharted: self-portrait with “one-shot” Vivex camera


Credit: Yevonde/National Portrait Gallery

Word of that originality and charm got out, and the upper classes came calling. It was the heyday of the illustrated press, and Yevonde’s fantastical photographs of society beauties and stars of the stage soon filled the pages of The Sketch and Tatler – all in her first year of starting out. The outbreak of the First World War put a temporary pause on her work, and then a shift in focus. In the years that followed, Yevonde documented society darlings attempting to assist the war effort. She briefly joined the Women’s Land Army as “second cowman” but anaemia put an end to her self-declared “martyrdom”. Back in the studio, commissions poured in. In 1920, she married the journalist Edgar Middleton who, unusually for the time, didn’t mind his wife working. The couple were founding members of PEN International, which promoted “friendship and cooperation among writers”. Their social circle included figures like Rebecca West and Allen Lane; the “mad parties” they hosted at their flat in Temple were renowned. 

By 1921, business was booming. Her compositions became increasingly inventive. After the horrors of the war, a heady distrust of reason and rules had infiltrated not only art, literature and music, but society. Those with money and time to spare were drawn to Yevonde’s dreamy world, a place where nothing awful happened and where a click of the shutter would propel a parade of beauties across time and space. In The Model Sapho (1922) model and muse Meum Stewart, in a short tunic, juggles balloons; Stewart returns Commedia-style in Invitation (1923), dressed as Columbine, receiving an invitation from Harlequin; and in 1927, the movie star Jeanne de Casalis whispers into the ear of a bust of Nefertiti. Yevonde also shot admiring portraits of writers, such as Noël Coward and George Bernard Shaw, and she rose to the challenge of making advertisements for Pears soap and Eno’s Fruit Salts interesting. In 1924, she curated Photography by Women at the Women’s Institute; the exhibition included her engagement portrait of Lord Louis Mountbatten and the Hon Edwina Ashley, the first of Yevonde’s many royal sittings, and it cemented her role as society’s most fashionable photographer. In the late 1920s, her “double portraits” became all the rage: headshot profiles of couples or a flipped single portrait floating against modernist motifs – surrealism for the upper classes.

“Red hair and exquisite complexions came into their own. We were in for exciting times!” Portrait of Joan Maude, 1932


“Red hair and exquisite complexions came into their own. We were in for exciting times!” Portrait of Joan Maude, 1932


Credit: Yevonde/National Portrait Gallery

Yevonde’s decade was undoubtedly the 1930s, an era of grand costume parties in which arch modernists were fascinated by mythology. She was thrilled by the invention of Vivex, the first colour print service for professional photographers in the UK, and became its most brilliant advocate. The technology used three negative plates (cyan, magenta and yellow), exposed through a specially designed “one-shot” camera, and processed separately – which freed Yevonde to manipulate the colours and experiment with balance – before the images were printed on top of each other. Vivex’s name, like Kodak, was chosen because it was an entirely new word. 

Yevonde had to battle the bias of her contemporaries: “Photographers,” she said, “will tell you quite seriously that the colour photograph is unnecessary and unnatural.” Yevonde was uninterested in doing anything in half measures: “Red hair, uniforms, exquisite complexions and coloured fingernails came into their own. Hurrah! We were in for exciting times!” She delighted in the fact that colour photography had “no history, no tradition, no old masters, but only a future!” She painted extravagant backgrounds, employed surprising props, exaggerated the makeup of her sitters and intensified colour via filters. Her first solo show at the Albany Gallery in Mayfair in 1932 comprised 70 vibrantly coloured still lifes and startling portraits, such as the red-headed, red-lipped actress Joan Maude in a cherry coat posed against a vermilion background. It was the first exhibition of colour portraits in the UK.

Absolutely fabulous: Lady Warrender as Ceres, 1935


Absolutely fabulous: Lady Warrender as Ceres, 1935


Credit: Yevonde/National Portrait Gallery

 In July 1935, Yevonde staged An Intimate Exhibition: Goddesses and Others – the series for which she is best known today. Her interest had been sparked by the Olympian Ball held at Claridge’s a few months earlier, which was hosted by Lady Warrender as Ceres, the goddess of agriculture, resplendent in a crown of golden wheat. It featured “a galaxy of goddesses” performed “by almost everyone who has been called beautiful”. Four of these ethereal beings reprised their roles in Yevonde’s studio; the photographer cast and styled 19 new characters. Occasionally taping blue or green cellophane over her studio lights and lens to accentuate the cool of Greek marble statues or the pallor of sea creatures, the result is astonishing: a hallucinatory group portrait that is at once very ancient and very modern. Violet, Baroness von Gagern as Europa, embraces a bull crowned with flowers; Aileen Balcon as the goddess of wisdom, sports a riding cap, a pistol and an owl; Madeleine Mayer channels the monstrous Medusa by casually draping a snake around her neck. 

Yevonde often visited galleries; she sought inspiration from Velázquez for her portraits of robed peers at George VI’s Coronation. She not only devoured art historian Herbert Read’s Art Now (1933) but, in 1937, shot a self-portrait with her camera balanced on a copy of it. It’s fair to assume that she agreed wholeheartedly with Read’s dictum: “Modern art has been inspired by a natural desire to chart the uncharted.” He was a co-organiser of the International Surrealist Exhibition, which opened at the New Burlington Galleries in London in 1936 – a show so popular it stopped the traffic on Piccadilly. It included 392 surrealist paintings and sculptures by 71 artists, including Picasso, Magritte, Max Ernst and others. Although the English performance artist Sheila Legge caused a stir – in an ivory satin gown, her face obscured by roses, she was covered with ladybirds and brandished a pork chop – the star of the show was Salvador Dalí, who attempted to deliver a lecture on “Some Authentic Paranoiac Phantoms” while dressed in a diving suit, holding a billiard cue and two Russian wolfhounds on a leash. With its melding of myth, eroticism and humour, Yevonde’s “Goddesses” series of a year earlier was a sign of how aligned the photographer was to the artistic innovations of the day – and the levels to which surrealism had infiltrated British culture. 

Olympian cool: Aileen Balcon as Minerva, 1935


Olympian cool: Aileen Balcon as Minerva, 1935


Credit: Yevonde/National Portrait Gallery

Over the following decades, Yevonde’s zest for life never waned. She shot a glamorous woman in high fashion, smoking and shelling peas for the cover of Woman and Beauty; Vivien Leigh, beautiful against a blood-red background; and the motor-racing driver Jill Scott in a burgundy jumpsuit and goggles. During the Second World War, her Berkeley Square studio narrowly escaped bombing, which destroyed the house next door. In the 1960s, she travelled to Addis Ababa where she photographed Hailie Selassie, Emperor of Ethiopia, smiling in uniform and clutching a small dog. She shot exquisite still lifes, her lens attuned to the compositional possibilities of lobsters, cabbages, owls, flies and flowers. She also elevated advertisements for lingerie, cigarettes and cosmetics to an artform. Yet, alongside her love of glamour, her origins as a suffragette held steady: in 1968, she staged an exhibition of 50 portraits of Some Distinguished Women to mark the 50th anniversary of women’s right to vote. Yevonde also took a number of self-portraits, picturing herself variously in 18th-century costume, glamorous with a camera, surrounded by surrealist props such as butterflies and picture frames. Whatever life threw at her, Yevonde responded with wit, imagination and skill.

Although Yevonde died in 1975, her legacy continues to brightly blaze. As Susanna Brown’s essay in the richly illustrated exhibition catalogue makes clear, Yevonde’s high-key world, so full of prop-filled artifice, has had a lasting influence on the fashion world, from John Galliano’s surreal set design (“She came from Streatham, just like me!” he once enthused), to the luminescent photography of Mario Testino and Miles Aldridge. This is apt. Despite being enamoured with the distant past, Yevonde, ever the optimist, always had her eye on the future: a place, she believed, of infinite possibility. 


Yevonde: Life and Colour is at the National Portrait Gallery, London WC2 (npg.org.uk), from Thursday

Where a Photographer’s Curiosity Became a Two-Year Commitment

Where a Photographer’s Curiosity Became a Two-Year Commitment

In 2021, Jonah Markowitz took an interest in the section of Kensington, Brooklyn, known as “Little Bangladesh.” He hasn’t stopped visiting.

Though he grew up just a few miles away, Jonah Markowitz, a photographer and documentarian based in Brooklyn, knew little about the neighborhood of Kensington before 2021. That’s when he noticed, in New York City data from the year before, that an outsize portion of applications for new business licenses came from the area that included Kensington.

So he began to check out the neighborhood, which had been a hub of Bangladeshi life in the city since the 1970s. Mr. Markowitz expected to start a project about economic trends in an immigrant community.

Instead, he spent almost two and a half years visiting the same corner in Kensington, working on a portrait of the quiet transformation of a New York City neighborhood.

Mr. Markowitz’s effort, which was published by the Metro desk this week, provided an intimate look at one of the city’s biggest Bangladeshi communities. With photographs, videos and text, Mr. Markowitz introduced readers to a street corner where newcomers seek work in construction and food delivery, and the Muslim faithful take up nearly an entire city block during Eid al-Fitr services.

“Sometimes we get numb to reorganizing of neighborhoods, of societies around us,” Mr. Markowitz said. “This project is in some way an antidote to that.”

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Jonah Markowitz for The New York Times

After a few trips to Kensington, Mr. Markowitz pitched the idea to Jeffrey Furticella, a photo editor on the Metro desk. Mr. Furticella said he had a soft spot for stories about New York’s evolution.

“One of my main hopes that I discuss with photographers at the outset is to create a time capsule of a moment,” Mr. Furticella said. “New York is always changing, for better and for worse. Communities evolve, businesses come and go. Nothing lasts forever, and I think one of the great responsibilities of the Metro desk is to provide a historical record of a city that draws global curiosity.”

Mr. Markowitz said his reporting was slow going at first. He was stymied by language and cultural barriers.

“There’s a hesitancy to let outsiders in and, vice versa, there’s a hesitancy for outsiders to spend a lot of time there, frankly,” he said. “It took a fair amount of being present and showing up every day for them to trust that I was invested in the story.”

Mr. Markowitz visited Kensington about 75 times throughout the course of the project. He went to restaurants, private homes and local businesses. He tagged along on delivery rides, attended religious services and observed dance performances, all to glean more insight on the lives, values, worldviews and experiences of those who live in Kensington.

“By spending that amount of time, we were able to explore all these layers,” Mr. Furticella said, “these important themes of labor, the immigrant experience and political influence, of changing norms in a cultural environment where it’s heavily male-dominant, but women are increasingly creating space for themselves.”

Last April, Bangladeshis from all over New York gathered on McDonald Avenue in the Kensington neighborhood of Brooklyn for Eid prayer.Jonah Markowitz for The New York Times

Karen Zraick, a reporter on the Metro desk, and Samira Asma-Sadeque, a freelance writer based in New York, provided additional reporting from the neighborhood. Ms. Asma-Sadeque, who is Bangladeshi American, reveled in exploring the everyday routines of the area. “It’s just about a community existing, about daily, ordinary life,” she said. “That is the beauty of it for me.”

After several months of reporting, Mr. Markowitz and Mr. Furticella came up with a clear vision of how to render street scenes in a novel way. Mr. Markowitz used a Phantom high-speed camera, which can capture film at 1,000 frames per second. Just five seconds of footage taken by the Phantom, if slowed to 1,000 frames per second, results in a video that is almost four minutes long. It weighs more than 20 pounds and is typically used in highly controlled environments or in studio settings to record car-crash test footage.

“It’s one of these grail-level tools,” Mr. Furticella said. “It’s a highly unusual use of this camera, to use it in an editorial, storytelling capacity. And it was this fabulous experiment.”

Using the Phantom high-speed on city streets was a photojournalist’s dream, Mr. Markowitz said, because it allowed him to frame unguarded moments with depth and detail. In the digital presentation of the article, a man washing his face and a worshiper bowing in prayer are cinematic backdrops to text rolling down the screen.

Now that the project is complete, Mr. Markowitz plans to make regular visits to Kensington for the food — goat biryani and fuchka are “must have” dishes there, he said — and the friendships he has forged. Many of the families he got to know have even invited him to Bangladesh.

The big picture: another side of old Istanbul

The big picture: another side of old Istanbul
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“I understand the smell of Istanbul,” the Turkish photographer Ara Güler used to say. And nowhere is the pungency of the city sharper than in his images of working boats on the Bosphorus. Having given up ambitions to be a film director, Güler devoted himself to making pictures in the 1950s as postwar democracy established greater press freedom. His first published story, on the city’s Armenian trawler boats, almost caused a riot at his newspaper office, when the fishermen turned up to protest about the fact that he had shown them swigging alcohol as they set out at dawn.

This picture was taken in the old caulking yards of Karaköy. The young man in the foreground invites you to imagine not only his life, but those of his colleagues beyond, at work or in conversation. “There is nothing without humans,” Güler said of his pictures. Though his image perfectly frames two distinct worlds, the skyline of mosques and minarets, and the waterside realities of shacks and barges and tyres, it is the people who count. “It was never about what venue I shot,” Güler said. “I shot pieces of life.”

Güler died in 2018, aged 90. This picture is included in an exhibition and retrospective book of 70 years of his work. He became, in the 1960s, the pre-eminent photojournalist in Turkey. He would carry with him four different Leica cameras on assignment, labelled for the different outlets for which he worked – Time magazine in the US, Stern in Germany, Paris Match in France and Hayat in Istanbul. The separation helped him think about what each audience might want, he said. It also gave a clue to his lifelong determination. He was never an artist, always a photojournalist: his aim, he suggested, was to be the honest “eye of Istanbul”.