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One Photographer’s Challenge: To Turn King Charles III Into an Icon

One Photographer’s Challenge: To Turn King Charles III Into an Icon
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Hundreds of photographers will spend Saturday trying to capture the perfect image of the coronation. But one faces a tougher task: to turn King Charles III into an icon.

Hugo Burnand, 59, is the coronation’s official portrait photographer and, shortly after the newly crowned Charles returns to Buckingham Palace, will have just minutes to take a historic image of the monarch.

Mr. Burnand said in a recent interview that he was trying to treat the job like any other — “I have to do what I know how to do well and let history take care of itself,” he said.

But some experts say that he faces a sizable challenge. Paul Moorhouse, a curator who in 2012 oversaw a major British exhibition of portraits of Queen Elizabeth II, said in an email that Mr. Burnand had to capture the glory of monarchy while appealing to younger generations skeptical of the institution.

“It will be a difficult balancing act,” Mr. Moorhouse said of creating an image that does both of those things. Unfortunately for Mr. Burnand “there is no model” to copy, Mr. Moorhouse added, since previous coronation photographers worked at times when Britain was enthralled with the idea of monarchy.

For centuries, Britain’s royal family has commissioned artists to paint coronation portraits. Since King Edward VII’s coronation in 1902, it has commissioned photographers, too, hoping to create enthralling images for newspapers worldwide.

The task is not for the fainthearted. Cecil Beaton, the official photographer for the coronation of Charles’s mother, Queen Elizabeth II, in 1953, wrote in his diaries that he had such nerves the night before that he drank heavily at dinner and woke up hung over.

When he came to photograph the queen, he felt that the lighting was wrong but didn’t have time to change anything. “I was banging away and getting pictures at a great rate,” he wrote. “I had only the foggiest notion of whether I was taking black and white, or color, or giving the right exposures.”

Mr. Burnand, a former society photographer for Tatler magazine, was perhaps an unsurprising choice for this coronation, having had a long relationship with the royal family.

A photograph by Mr. Burnand for Charles and Camilla’s wedding of the couple and some of their family members.Hugo Burnand/Clarence House/PA

In 2004, the royals asked him to photograph Charles and Camilla’s wedding the next year, but Mr. Burnand said that when he got the email, he initially turned down the job. He was on sabbatical in Bolivia and had just been robbed, he said. “I’ve had all the family’s passports stolen, and our money, and my cameras!” Mr. Burnand recalled replying.

He quickly changed his mind, though, and the wedding turned out to be a career breakthrough. Beforehand, he said, he felt like he was “really flapping my wings” trying to fly. Afterward, he no longer had to wait for the phone to ring with offers of work.

A few years later, he took Charles’s official 60th birthday portrait. (Charles was depicted in a surprisingly casual fashion, leaning back in a gold chair.) And he also shot the 2011 wedding of Prince William and Catherine, Princess of Wales, somehow making the occasion look intimate by photographing the newlyweds surrounded by page boys and bridesmaids.

Mr. Burnand’s official portrait for Charles’s 60th birthday in 2008.Hugo Burnand/PA

During the recent interview, Mr. Burnand said that he loathed having his own portrait taken, but that the feeling made him a better photographer as he tried to make his sitters feel as comfortable as possible.

Being prepared also helps. He said he had spent weeks studying images of past coronations. He has also tried to consider everything that might go wrong, such as an equipment failure. And he even examined the environmental impact of his camera equipment to ensure that he was in sync with Charles’s pro-environmental views.

Now, Mr. Burnand said, he just wanted to get going: “Bring it on! Bring it on! Let’s do this!”

‘When he woke up he gave me a free watermelon’: Saiful Islam’s best phone picture

‘When he woke up he gave me a free watermelon’: Saiful Islam’s best phone picture
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Around 10pm the night before this photo was taken, Samsul, a watermelon farmer, had boarded his boat in Barishal, a district of Bangladesh. He’d sailed through the night to Dhaka, mooring in the capital’s Sadarghat port, on the Buriganga River.

Around 5am, his trawler had taken its spot alongside another, selling pumpkins, and the farmer turned sailor transformed once again – this time into an auctioneer, selling off his produce at wholesale prices to local market sellers.

By the time Saiful Islam wandered by, at around 7.30am, many of Samsul’s watermelons had already been sold and enjoyed across the capital, and much of the farmer’s long shift was over.

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Islam, a software engineer who takes photographs as a hobby, had the day off work and had headed to the port with his younger brother to shoot whatever he might come across. He describes the area as a hubbub of activity: shouting, bartering, cameraderie.

“I saw him from a distance, and stood on the railing of the boat to get the shot. I didn’t disturb him, as I knew how tired he must be, but he woke up a few minutes later. We chatted and I showed him the photo. ‘Oh my God!’ he said.

“It was already a very hot day, so he gave us each a free watermelon and went back to his boat, smiling.”

Botticelli’s Venus is an ‘influencer’ and Italy is not happy

Botticelli’s Venus is an ‘influencer’ and Italy is not happy
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ROME (AP) — The Italian tourism ministry thought it had a sure-fire way to bring travelers into the country: turning a 15th century art icon into a 21st century “virtual influencer.”

The digital rendition of Venus, goddess of love, based on Sandro Botticelli’s Renaissance masterpiece “Birth of Venus,” can be seen noshing on pizza and snapping selfies for her Instagram page. Unlike the original, this Venus is fully clothed. The influencer claims to be 30, or “maybe just a wee bit (older) than that.”

But the new ad campaign is facing significant backlash — with critics calling it a “new Barbie” that trashes Italy’s cultural heritage.

The tourist campaign “trivializes our heritage in the most vulgar way, transforming Botticelli’s Venus into yet another stereotyped female beauty,” Livia Garomersini, an art historian and activist with Mi Riconosci, an art and heritage campaign organization, said in a response to the project last month.

The yearlong campaign, produced by national tourism agency ENIT and advertising group Armando Testa, is estimated to have cost 9 million euros (about $9.9 million), according to ENIT CEO Ivana Jelinic.

Jelinic said that the campaign was designed for overseas markets to attract younger tourists. The online Venus launched in Italy on April 20 and made her international debut in Dubai at the Arabian Travel Market earlier this week.

“We liked the idea that it would be a work of art that is timeless,” Jelinic told The Associated Press, adding that Botticelli’s Venus “seemed to us like a immortal icon who could represent Italy well.”

Already the new Venus has been memed mercilessly online, appearing among trash bins, alongside Mafia boss Matteo Messina Denaro, and in other less-than godly places.

The criticism extends beyond the use of a masterpiece to the manner in which the campaign was orchestrated, including its use of stock images and other gaffes like a promotional video featuring a winery in Slovenia, used as a stand-in for Italy.

An even greater sin for many is the campaign’s slogan, “Open to Meraviglia” (Open to Wonder), because it mixes English into an Italian tourist campaign even as the country’s government seeks to protect the Italian language as a pillar of its culture.

There are other language faux pas.

On the campaign’s website, an automatic translator turned Brindisi, a southern Italian port town, into its literal English definition: “Toast,” according to Matteo Flora, a professor at the University of Pavia. That part of the website has now been obscured.

“Let’s not talk about the creativity point of view,” said Flora, “You may like (the campaign) or not, but on a technical point of view, it has been… a sort of avalanche of problems.”

That includes a failure to secure domains, allowing anyone to snatch the material and mock the project with it.

Flora said the campaign also wasted money. The campaign’s creative team chose to use the “intelligence of human creativity,” rather than artificial intelligence, to build the virtual Venus — but Flora showed how he could quickly come up with a similar campaign using AI at a cost of 20 euros. His social media posts have been shared by thousands of people.

The use of a likeness of Botticelli’s masterpiece has been lambasted by art historians as well, who say it vastly diminishes the beauty and mystery of the 15th century original.

“Perhaps Botticelli would not be happy about this,” said Massimo Moretti, a professor of art history at the University of Rome, Sapienza.

Any use of an iconic image like the “Birth of Venus” risks striking a cultural nerve, marketing experts say.

“The more you try to alter something that’s historic, probably the greater the outcry,” said Larry Chiagouris, professor of marketing at Pace University’s Lubin School of Business.

“People are going to say, ‘You’re changing the culture. You’re changing who we are, because it’s part of our history,’” Chiagouris added.

“I didn’t like the fact that they used the Botticelli Venus like that, since it is a piece of art,” Riccardo Rodrigo, a high school student in Rome, said. “They made it something social friendly to amuse Gen Z, I think it was unnecessary since it can be used just like it is and not modified like they did.”

The Uffizi Galleries, which houses Botticelli’s “Birth of Venus” in Florence, declined to comment on the campaign.

For the creators of the campaign, however, any press is good press.

“It has become so viral,” said Jelinic of ENIT, adding that “web users have made her come alive” even when placing the new Venus in unglamorous places.

“I find (it) interesting in terms of social communication,” Jelinic said. “Our campaign is more appealing than (critics) want to admit.”

Tourism officials plan to expand the campaign through the use of billboards as well as video screens in airports and railways.

____

Grantham-Philips reported from Washington, D.C.

Botticelli’s Venus is an ‘influencer’ and Italy is not happy

Botticelli’s Venus is an ‘influencer’ and Italy is not happy

ROME — The Italian tourism ministry thought it had a sure-fire way to bring travelers into the country: turning a 15th century art icon into a 21st century “virtual influencer.”

The digital rendition of Venus, goddess of love, based on Sandro Botticelli’s Renaissance masterpiece “Birth of Venus,” can be seen noshing on pizza and snapping selfies for her Instagram page. Unlike the original, this Venus is fully clothed. The influencer claims to be 30, or “maybe just a wee bit (older) than that.”

But the new ad campaign is facing significant backlash — with critics calling it a “new Barbie” that trashes Italy’s cultural heritage.

The tourist campaign “trivializes our heritage in the most vulgar way, transforming Botticelli’s Venus into yet another stereotyped female beauty,” Livia Garomersini, an art historian and activist with Mi Riconosci, an art and heritage campaign organization, said in a response to the project last month.

The yearlong campaign, produced by national tourism agency ENIT and advertising group Armando Testa, is estimated to have cost 9 million euros (about $9.9 million), according to ENIT CEO Ivana Jelinic.

Jelinic said that the campaign was designed for overseas markets to attract younger tourists. The online Venus launched in Italy on April 20 and made her international debut in Dubai at the Arabian Travel Market earlier this week.

“We liked the idea that it would be a work of art that is timeless,” Jelinic told The Associated Press, adding that Botticelli’s Venus “seemed to us like a immortal icon who could represent Italy well.”

Already the new Venus has been memed mercilessly online, appearing among trash bins, alongside Mafia boss Matteo Messina Denaro, and in other less-than godly places.

The criticism extends beyond the use of a masterpiece to the manner in which the campaign was orchestrated, including its use of stock images and other gaffes like a promotional video featuring a winery in Slovenia, used as a stand-in for Italy.

An even greater sin for many is the campaign’s slogan, “Open to Meraviglia” (Open to Wonder), because it mixes English into an Italian tourist campaign even as the country’s government seeks to protect the Italian language as a pillar of its culture.

There are other language faux pas.

On the campaign’s website, an automatic translator turned Brindisi, a southern Italian port town, into its literal English definition: “Toast,” according to Matteo Flora, a professor at the University of Pavia. That part of the website has now been obscured.

“Let’s not talk about the creativity point of view,” said Flora, “You may like (the campaign) or not, but on a technical point of view, it has been… a sort of avalanche of problems.”

That includes a failure to secure domains, allowing anyone to snatch the material and mock the project with it.

Flora said the campaign also wasted money. The campaign’s creative team chose to use the “intelligence of human creativity,” rather than artificial intelligence, to build the virtual Venus — but Flora showed how he could quickly come up with a similar campaign using AI at a cost of 20 euros. His social media posts have been shared by thousands of people.

The use of a likeness of Botticelli’s masterpiece has been lambasted by art historians as well, who say it vastly diminishes the beauty and mystery of the 15th century original.

“Perhaps Botticelli would not be happy about this,” said Massimo Moretti, a professor of art history at the University of Rome, Sapienza.

Any use of an iconic image like the “Birth of Venus” risks striking a cultural nerve, marketing experts say.

“The more you try to alter something that’s historic, probably the greater the outcry,” said Larry Chiagouris, professor of marketing at Pace University’s Lubin School of Business.

“People are going to say, ‘You’re changing the culture. You’re changing who we are, because it’s part of our history,'” Chiagouris added.

“I didn’t like the fact that they used the Botticelli Venus like that, since it is a piece of art,” Riccardo Rodrigo, a high school student in Rome, said. “They made it something social friendly to amuse Gen Z, I think it was unnecessary since it can be used just like it is and not modified like they did.”

The Uffizi Galleries, which houses Botticelli’s “Birth of Venus” in Florence, declined to comment on the campaign.

For the creators of the campaign, however, any press is good press.

“It has become so viral,” said Jelinic of ENIT, adding that “web users have made her come alive” even when placing the new Venus in unglamorous places.

“I find (it) interesting in terms of social communication,” Jelinic said. “Our campaign is more appealing than (critics) want to admit.”

Tourism officials plan to expand the campaign through the use of billboards as well as video screens in airports and railways.

____

Grantham-Philips reported from Washington, D.C.

Santa Fe photographer knew how to jazz it up

Santa Fe photographer knew how to jazz it up
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Paul Slaughter had an ear for jazz, a feel for people, an eye for photography.

His life was much more complex than that, but the triangle of sound, heart and sight dominated his 84 years on the planet, said his widow, Inée Slaughter.

Paul Slaughter, once the official photographer for the 1984 Los Angeles Olympic Committee and a 34-year resident of Santa Fe, died April 6 after a long battle with myasthenia gravis and Parkinson’s disease, his wife said.

‘Man Ray and Fashion’ at MoMu: how the Surrealist artist changed the way we see clothes

‘Man Ray and Fashion’ at MoMu: how the Surrealist artist changed the way we see clothes

That fashion designers would be influenced by the work of Man Ray – the American visual artist and photographer most associated with the Dada and Surrealist movements of the 1930s – was ‘inevitable’ says Romy Cockx, the curator of ‘Man Ray and Fashion’, which is open now at MoMu – Fashion Museum Antwerp (until 13 August 2023).

Continuing a string of intriguing recent shows at the 2002-founded institution, including ‘Mirror Mirror: Fashion and the Psyche’ (an exploration of ‘fashion, psychology, self-image and identity’) and ‘E/MOTION. Fashion in Transition’ (‘fashion as an expression of emotion, fear and desire in society’), this latest exhibition provides a wide-ranging exploration of Man Ray’s connection with fashion during his career. Photographing imagery for magazines like Harper’s Bazaar, Vanity Fair and Vogue as well as fashion and cosmetic advertisements – several of which have become his most memorable pieces of work – he would become one of the foremost documenters of interwar fashion and its oftentimes surreal preoccupations. Case in point: a close relationship with couturier Elsa Schiaparelli, known for her witty and dreamlike flourishes (as well as photographing both the designer and her work, Man Ray also made a spiralling pair of ‘hypnotic’ spectacles for the house of Schiaparelli in 1936).

‘Man Ray and Fashion’ at MoMu Antwerp

Man Ray photograph of eye and tears in gallery

Man Ray’s Les Larmes (1936) in ‘Man Ray and Fashion’ at MoMu Antwerp

(Image credit: Photography by Matthias De Boeck, courtesy of MoMu)

Several of these works feature in the exhibition, which is co-organised with Réunion des Musées Nationaux – Grand Palais, in partnership with the City of Marseille Museums (a different iteration was shown at the Musée Cantini and Chateau Borély, Marseille in 2020 and at Musée du Luxembourg in Paris later that year). 

‘During the years he worked for Harper’s Bazaar in the 1930s, Man Ray was given a free hand to depict fashion. His artistic interpretation regularly took precedence over the clear representation of the clothing itself,’ says Cockx of his dreamlike photographic style, which often used Surrealist techniques such as solarisation and double exposure and placed focus on silhouette and form (‘creative unconsciousness’, describes Cockx of his process). ‘In the exhibition, we show a picture he took of a black crêpe dress by Augustabernard in 1934, next to the actual dress, which I think illustrates his daring and modern point of view.’

‘For Man Ray, the realms of art and fashion weren’t mutually exclusive, at least not during the interwar period,’ Cockx continues. ‘His commercial fashion photography inspired his artworks and vice versa. We hope the exhibition once again illustrates that fashion is part of society and is permeated by many influences.’

Exhibition view of ‘Man Ray and Fashion’

(Image credit: Photography by Stany Dederen, courtesy of MoMu)

Exhibition view, Man Ray and Fashion

(Image credit: Photography by Stany Dederen, courtesy of MoMu)

Man Ray’s own influence is highlighted in the exhibition with garments by some of the numerous contemporary designers who have drawn from the artist’s oeuvre, including Martin Margiela, Olivier Theyskens and Dries Van Noten (Cockx said for this iteration in Antwerp there was a focus on Belgian designers). ’I think surrealism, and particularly the work of the Belgian painter René Magritte, became rooted in Belgian collective consciousness,’ Cockx explains. ‘As early as 1924, Belgium was the first country other than France whose initiatives led to the establishment of a surrealist scene. Members of it were linked with fashion through the Belgian couture house Norine – Magritte designed advertisements for the house it integrated imagery of Max Ernst and Man Ray in its dress designs. Norine was also one of the first couturiers that was photographed by Man Ray.’

Of the designers on display, Cockx says Margiela’s collections were ‘filled with references’ to Man Ray (though apart from a photocopy of Les Larmes in a 1988 portfolio from the designer, it ’was never literal’), while those found in Van Noten’s work were more subtle, tracing a link between Man Ray’s Surrealism and Pop Art. Dirk Van Saen (a member of the Antwerp Six, alongside Van Noten), meanwhile, found his way to Man Ray through references to Schiaparelli’s ‘trompe l’oeil aesthetics’. 

‘What is the special factor that connects them all? I believe elements and influences from Man Ray’s oeuvre have always been given a personal interpretation in Belgian fashion and never stand alone,’ Cockx says.

Man Ray photograph of woman

Man Ray, Tête de femme vue en plongée, 1930/1979

(Image credit: Courtesy Fondazione Marconi, Milan © Man Ray 2015 Trust / Sabam Belgium 2023 )

But the curator says that Man Ray’s pioneering vision was far-reaching – a trail of influence that has shaped the way that we see, and photograph, fashion today. ‘Andy Warhol was an admirer of Man Ray, the fashion photographer Guy Bourdin was inspired by his work in the 1970s, as well as Yves Saint Laurent,’ Cockx says. ‘In recent seasons, the influence of Surrealism on fashion seems to have increased – a trend sometimes linked to the uncertainties we face today.

‘He played an important role in the spread and commercialisation of Surrealist imagery during the 1930s, so it seems logical that elements of his work are being reinterpreted now as well. I think his work continues to resonate because of its mixture of humour and enigmatic glamour.’

’Man Ray and Fashion’ at MoMu – Fashion Museum Antwerp from 22 April – 13 August 2023.

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Exhibition view ‘Man Ray and Fashion’

(Image credit: Photography by Stany Dederen, courtesy of MoMu)

Exhibition view Man Ray and Fashion

(Image credit: Photography by Stany Dederen, courtesy of MoMu)