Photography

The Story Behind 2023’s Most Iconic Street Style Photograph

The Story Behind 2023’s Most Iconic Street Style Photograph
After 16 years, Tommy Ton finally landed a portrait of elusive Comme des Garçons founder Rei Kawakubo.

October 10, 2023

The Story Behind Tommy Tons Most Iconic Street Style Photograph

This is an edition of the newsletter Show Notes, in which Samuel Hine reports from the front row of the spring and fall fashion weeks. Sign up here to get it in your inbox.


Over the past 16 years, eminent street style photographer Tommy Ton has taken millions of frames outside fashion shows around the world. But it wasn’t until last week that he finally got the shot he’d been pursuing for his entire career: a quiet and beautiful portrait of Rei Kawakubo, the elusive and mysterious creative force behind Comme des Garçons.

It was, Ton tells me the day after returning from Paris, “just this magical moment.” A moment that instantly went industry-viral when Ton posted it on Instagram.

It was the Saturday of Paris Fashion Week, a holiday in all of Comme-dom, the traditional date when the Japanese brand and its sub-labels (like Junya Watanabe and Noir Kei Ninomiya) unveil their collections. Ton was outside the Junya Watanabe venue, usually the earliest-morning show of the entire week, much to the chagrin of bleary-eyed buyers. Ton got there ahead of schedule. “It’s the day that I look forward to the most,” he says.

The Style.com and Vogue veteran, 39, was a fashion fan before he was a photographer. He has an encyclopedic knowledge of every Marc Jacobs collection ever and an archive of rare and important Dries Van Noten. Photographically, Ton’s eye is drawn to detailed sartorial flexes and authentic style moments. So for Ton, Comme day, when Kawakubo devotees hit the streets decked in their freakiest through-the-looking-glass CdG gowns and suits, is like shooting fish in a barrel.

“It’s a day where people can wave their freak flag,” Ton says. “It’s a celebration of fashion on the highest level, a day when fashion is so welcomed to the point where there’s no judgment. It’s so much fun.” You might recall Ton’s famous street style flick of Virgil Abloh and Kanye “Ye” West’s crew at Paris Fashion Week in 2009. That was outside Comme des Garçons Homme Plus.

And at the center of the sartorial drama is the sphinxlike Kawakubo, who has long insisted that the best way to know her is to look at her clothes. Ton calls her a unicorn. Images of Kawakubo exist—anonymity is not central to her creativity, as it was for the reclusive Martin Margiela. But she avoids interviews and cameras, quickly slipping in and out of her shows surrounded by a retinue of aides. “It’s kind of like an unspoken rule,” Ton says. “You never take photos of Rei.”

Which hasn’t stopped Ton from trying, driven more by a deep sense of admiration than anything resembling an Ahab-like madness. “She represents this greatness,” he says. “So even if she’s just in passing, you gasp when you see her. So in the past, any opportunity I had to take a picture of her, if she’s running into her car or being whisked away, I would try to do the best I could.” Ton never got the moment he wanted. Most recent photographs of Kawakubo are of a slight woman, her black bob streaked with gray, walking purposefully away from the photographer.

On Saturday, outside Junya Watanabe, Ton finally got his chance. And just as quickly, he almost squandered it.

A smile

“I was photographing all the staff members, which they were kind enough to let me do, because they’re all very notoriously shy. And then I look through the crowd and I see Rei just standing there.” Kawakubo had materialized on the sidewalk, talking to her husband, Comme and Dover Street Market CEO Adrian Joffe, and members of their team. Ton started taking photos of her through the crowd. “And then I thought, oh, how harmless would it be if I just went around and got a bit closer?” He approached, closer but not too close. “And then, as I was about to take a photo, that’s when she turned. And then that’s how you get the photo of her kind of smiling.”

That’s also when Joffe saw what Ton was doing. The Australian executive—an amicable guy if you get to know him!—firmly shooed Ton away. “I felt extremely embarrassed at that point,” Ton recalls. Ton did the only thing he could think of and hid behind a nearby Metro sign. As any fashion week regular knows, Ton is one of the most respectful photographers plying the streets. His style is to hang on the margins of the crowd, about as far from the celebrity paps as possible, patiently waiting for the moments other lensmen might not see. He is beloved in the industry. But Ton had gotten nabbed breaking the unspoken rule. “I just felt like, How could I do something so stupid?” he says.

At risk of slight overstatement, what happened next was basically a fashion week miracle. Ton, still hiding behind the sign, poked his head and lens out. Kawakubo had walked in his direction, and was standing on the curb. She looked over at Ton. “And then she took another step, and that’s when she just stood there and she faced my direction, and I just lifted my camera up and I took one or two shots. She didn’t budge, and I just thought, Let’s go.

For a few seconds, Ton recalled, everything around Kawakubo went still. Joffe and her staff, the crowd behind her, “totally just shifted.” “Somehow, it was just this magical moment that happened where she was blessing me with this opportunity to take a portrait of her. And there was not a single person in the background.” As soon as Ton had gotten his shot, Kawakubo turned and walked into the show.

The image, Kawakubo poised in her crisp black blazer, is special, the result of Ton’s diligence and grace built up 16 years. “She knows what you mean,” the fashion critic Tim Blanks commented on Instagram. Ton, of course, is modest as ever. “I think it was a very kind gesture she gave to me,” he said. “Maybe she felt bad that I got shooed away, and then when she saw me again she felt like, What’s the harm? Let him have a photo.

Ton is currently working on a career-spanning street style anthology. “Rei will have some nice coverage” in it, he promises.

The pursuit of street style glory, however, is never over. “I definitely felt like I achieved something I’ve been wanting to achieve for a long time,” Ton says. “But that didn’t stop me from trying to take another photo of her two days later.”

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Lincoln photographer seeking to wrap up documentary of ‘Sixties Survivors’ before they’re gone

Lincoln photographer seeking to wrap up documentary of ‘Sixties Survivors’ before they’re gone

LINCOLN — Bill Ganzel survived the 1960s.

He researched how long it would take Russian missiles to rain down on his family’s home in Waverly, grieved the assassination of President John F. Kennedy and joined demonstrations against the Vietnam War at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln.

Now, the 74-year-old photographer and former executive producer with Nebraska Public Television is seeking to wrap up a nearly two-decade-long project to document how other “survivors” of the ’60s fared.

Bill Ganzel
Lincoln photographer/producer Bill Ganzel (Courtesy of Ganzel Group)

“So much happened in the ’60s,” Ganzel said. “There was so much uproar and upheaval and frankly, violence.”

His project is called “Sixties Survivors,” and so far, Ganzel has tracked down and interviewed more than 50 people across the country, from Seattle to Selma.

Look magazine photos

He identified his subjects after scanning years of editions of L00k magazine, a biweekly publication that emphasized photography in documenting American life from 1937 to 1971.

The list includes the first Medal of Honor recipient from the Vietnam War, an anti-war protester who presented a flower to bayonet-wielding soldiers, civil rights leader Jesse Jackson and Native American activist John Trudell.

Before they died, Ganzel interviewed and photographed former Deputy U.S. Attorney General William Ruckelshaus, who was fired by President Richard Nixon amid the Watergate scandal, at his office in Seattle. And he sat down with JFK’s speechwriter, Ted Sorensen, who wrote the phrase “Ask not what your country can do for you, but what you can do for your country.”

He has interviewed the famous, like actress Ali McGraw and comedian/activist Dick Gregory, and regular people who became part of history because of the images in the magazine.

Now he’s seeking to add up to 10 more survivors — including a daughter of Robert F. Kennedy — who he has reached on the East Coast during a trip next month.

‘Re-photograph’ project

The journey will allow him to attend the opening of an exhibit at the National Gallery of Art that features one of his images from a previous “rephotography” project, “Dust Bowl Descent,” which focused on subjects of Dorothea Lange’s famous photo collection. 

But it will also allow him to reach the final subjects for his “Sixties Survivors” project.

“I have to get to them before they die,” Ganzel said.

Why the ’60s?

He said it was a pivotal decade that has molded American society for decades, just like the Depression era of the 1930s and the war-torn years of the 1940s.

‘Culture wars started 50 years ago’

“The culture wars we’re dealing with today started 50 years ago,” Ganzel said. 

President Kennedy was assassinated during the decade, as was his brother, Bobby, and Martin Luther King. Television news provided a front-row seat in front of the Vietnam War. And there were fiery riots on the streets over civil rights and the draft.

Ganzel said it’s no wonder so many young people of his generation decided to “drop out” in a counter-culture revolution of drugs and free spirits.

“They saw it as a brutal society,” he said.

Ganzel, who owns the entire collection of Look magazines, said he scoured the pages of the large-format publication for photos and stories that interested him, then began the sometimes years-long process of trying to reconnect with the subjects of those stories.

A tough one was the civil rights protester who carried the American flag in the famous “Bloody Sunday” march in Alabama from Montgomery to Selma in 1965.

The flag bearer, Lewis Marshall, then 15, was not identified in a photo in Look. But Ganzel said that while he was in Alabama interviewing another subject for his project, he asked about the flag bearer and was given a lead.

Flag bearer discovered sculpture

He said that after he was able to discern that Marshall lived in Montgomery, it took two years of phone calls before Marshall answered a call. Eventually, Ganzel said he had to knock on Marshall’s front door before he got an interview and a photograph.

The story got even better — Ganzel was able to take Marshall to a National Park Service museum near Montgomery where, unbeknownst to Marshall, a sculptor had used his image as inspiration for a bronze statue of a flag bearer.

“This is fantastic … to know it’s me,” a nearly speechless Marshall says when he first views the sculpture in a video shot by Ganzel.

The goal of “Sixties Survivors,” Ganzel said, is to update the history of people who lived through the tumultuous decade.

He said he considered Look the best magazine of its day, and when the publication closed, 3.5 million images were donated to the Library of Congress, creating a rich source of background for his project.

His work is part of the “rephotography” movement, a way to produce “then and now” images of famous places and people.

The “Sixties” project, Ganzel said, seemed like a logical extension of his Dust Bowl project. He said he’s been fortunate to get several grants and donations to finance his latest project, which has required trips across the country, but is soliciting additional donations via GoFundMe.com for this trip east next month.

The photographs, he hopes, will be put into a book. The video interviews he’s done may become a documentary — possibly with his old employer, public television — or a podcast.

All of his work will be donated to the Library of Congress, to add to the texture of its collections about the ’60s.

“I feel a mission to tell all of these people’s stories,” Ganzel said. “They gave me their time, they opened up their lives — about what went on and what’s been going on since.”

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You can take majestic night sky photography in Joshua Tree. Here’s a class for that

You can take majestic night sky photography in Joshua Tree. Here’s a class for that

It’s no secret that one of the best stargazing spots in Southern California is Joshua Tree National Park. The park is an International Dark Sky Place — meaning that aside from some light pollution coming from Palm Springs and the Morongo Basin, it has some of the darkest skies in the region — and it’s just a two- or three- hour drive from Los Angeles.

But the best way to see the stars there isn’t with your eyes — it’s with a camera.

“As it gets dark, you’ll see there’s a kind of light, mottled appearance where the Milky Way band is,” said Jon Norris, who has taught photography workshops in the park for four years. “You will be able to perceive the Milky Way, but the image your digital camera will take will be much, much clearer than what your eyes can perceive.”

Norris, a former aerospace engineer turned landscape photographer, teaches some of his dark-sky photography workshops via the Desert Institute at Joshua Tree National Park, a nonprofit cooperating association that provides educational programming for the park.

“We’re here to provide specialized or in-depth opportunities for people to explore the park and understand this resource from a more specialized perspective,” said Sarah Witt, Desert Institute program director of Desert Institute.

Joshua Trees along the Cap Rock Trail in Joshua Tree National Park.

Joshua Trees along the Cap Rock Trail in Joshua Tree National Park.

(Julia Carmel / Los Angeles Times)

The educational programs can range from school trips to field classes on local insects, flora and fauna. And though the institute has offered classes and workshops for 24 years, Witt said it’s now trying to provide more short-form, entry-level activities for people to engage with.

“When we come to a desert, we want to do everything,” Witt said. “You know, we want to get our chakras cleansed, and we want to go to Pappy & Harriet’s and wear cowboy boots. We don’t want to go bird-watching for two days, necessarily, right? But we do want to educate people on birds!”

Relative to some of the multi-day programs that the Desert Institute offers, these dark-sky photography workshops are pretty low commitment. During my six-hour class, I took hundreds of photos in the same amount of time that my partner had a rack of ribs and watched a Grateful Shred show at Pappy & Harriet’s in nearby Pioneertown.

Astrophotography workshops are usually scheduled around the new moon — when the sky is darkest — during the Milky Way season, which is February to October in the Northern Hemisphere. So just two days after September’s new moon, I found myself fumbling with a camera in a pitch-black field of Yucca brevifolia, trying to capture a few decent photos for this story.

Want to take your own photos of the night sky? Here are some night photography tips and tricks from Norris — and if you’d like to try the workshop yourself, his last sessions of the year are happening on Friday and Saturday.

Jon Norris showing the class how to use a rotating star finder to locate the Milky Way.

Jon Norris demonstrating how to use a rotating star finder to locate the Milky Way (though he prefers to use an app on his phone).

(Julia Carmel / Los Angeles Times)

Get set up while there’s still light out

By 5:30 p.m., our class of five was gathered in the Cap Rock parking lot — one of the lots that stays open at night for stargazers. After Norris and a park volunteer named Chris checked our names and waivers, we got straight to work on our cameras.

Participants must bring a DSLR or a mirrorless camera that they’re familiar with, but Norris helped each of us set our focus, aperture, exposure and ISO manually to prepare for shooting in the dark.

“What we’re trying to do is capture an image of a very dark scene, and the most important thing in that scene is the stars,” Norris said. “We want the stars to be absolutely pin sharp, so one of the things we need to do before it gets dark is we’re going to set up our focus on something at infinity.”

Once we all managed to focus on a mountain in the distance and finished tinkering with our various camera settings and lenses, Norris taped our focal rings to keep them in place throughout the night, since it’s “impossible” to focus properly in the dark. He helped us set delays (so pressing the shutter button wouldn’t shake the cameras at the beginning of our shots), and instructed us to shoot in RAW — rather than JPEG — since RAW images capture the highest level of detail.

After a reminder to bring water and a rundown of Cap Rock Trail, which is a 0.4-mile loop with a bathroom near the parking lot, Norris led us onto the trail to start planning our shots.

Jon Norris uses PhotoPills to see where the Milky Way will be in a few hours.

Jon Norris uses PhotoPills to see where the Milky Way will be in a few hours.

(Julia Carmel / Los Angeles Times)

Don’t be afraid of technology

“With a dark-sky photo, preferably, you want to have an interesting foreground, because it helps give it scale and makes the image look more interesting,” Norris said as we left the parking lot. “So we’re going to spend the next hour or so wandering around this trail, looking for different compositions.”

To plan his shots, Norris swears by a phone app called PhotoPills, which allows him to figure out shot compositions ahead of time with the help of nighttime augmented reality. The app also tracks the moon phases and daily timing of moonrise, moonset and galactic center visibility.

PhotoPills works without wifi, so we were able to see where the Milky Way would be at every minute between 8:14 and 11:22 p.m. (when the galactic center was visible that night).

The app also has a photography calculator labeled “spot stars,” which allows you to input your camera model, which millimeter you want to shoot at and your widest aperture to calculate the optimal shutter speed for your camera. That leaves the camera’s ISO as the only guesswork — Norris recommends starting with 1600 and toggling up or down (to 3200 or 800) as you begin shooting.

In terms of composition, Norris suggested that each of us include at least one tree above the ridgeline, so the silhouette can contrast the night sky. When each of us found a shot that we liked, we were able to screenshot the composition on PhotoPills and drop a pin on our maps app to return to the same spot later.

“Well, I mean, knowing where is only half the battle,” Norris said. “It’s still plenty hard enough to get a decent shot.”

A silhouette of a Joshua tree against the starry night sky.

A Joshua tree against the starry night sky, shot by Pam Atkins, a landscape and wildlife photographer in the dark-sky photography workshop.

(Pam Atkins)

Let your creativity run wild

Though the camera settings may be similar for most astrophotographers, there are countless ways to take different photos of the same stars.

Norris likes to keep his images fairly accurate to what he captures in real life, but some photographers incorporate surreal light painting (another class recently offered by the Desert Institute) and other artistic effects.

Lucy Delaney, a biology professor at UC Riverside, was hoping to take a few self-portraits with the stars during our workshop. As we moved around and experimented with different ISO values, she realized that people’s red headlamps and flashlights could make the foreground bright enough to light up her face (and the surrounding Joshua trees) in a portrait.

Lucy Delaney poses for a self-portrait during our dark sky photography workshop.

Lucy Delaney poses for a self-portrait during our dark sky photography workshop.

(Lucy Delaney)

Norris explained that it’s also common for photographers to blend multiple images together to reduce noise from passing planes and car headlights. Stacking multiple photos can also make the landscape look a bit more interesting — for example, images where you’re able to see more detail than just a dark silhouette in the foreground are likely composites.

“They’ll take images of the foreground at the end of twilight so you can still see some definition — so you could see bushes, you could see some of these other trees, you can see the ridgeline,” Norris said. “Then they’ll wait two or three hours and then take the Milky Way picture without moving the tripod.”

A composite of star photos, made in Joshua Tree during a dark sky photography workshop.

A composite of star photos, made in Joshua Tree during a dark-sky photography workshop, lead by Desert Institute on Sept. 16, 2023.

(Julia Carmel / Los Angeles Times)

Follow the star trails

The latter half of Norris’ workshop involved setting up our cameras in a stationary spot to take hundreds of shots over the course of about an hour. If your camera doesn’t have one built in, he recommends bringing an intervalometer to automatically take time-lapse photos.

Using PhotoPills, we were also able to see what paths the star trails would be moving along.

“With star trails, there’s a couple of different options you’ve got,” Norris said. “So you can find a composition where Polaris is in the shot, and you’ll get concentric rings, or if you move 90 degrees left or right to the pole star, then there’s a diagonal line that’s called the celestial equator.”

And though it makes sense to assume that the stars are in motion, these trails actually show us how the planet is moving.

“The stars aren’t moving, we are,” Norris said. “It’s a bit of a mind melt. You’re basically taking pictures as the Earth spins, but the impression it gives us is that the stars are moving.”

Norris usually takes about 200 photos in the same spot that he later cleans up — “because every fifth shot, I guarantee you, you’re gonna have aircraft lights,” he said. He then exports them as TIFF files, to make sure they don’t lose any data, and uploads them to an application called Starry Sky Stacker, which combines all the photos to build the actual star trails.

A composite of star photos, made with the software Starry Sky Stacker.

A composite of star photos, made with the software Starry Sky Stacker, in Joshua Tree during a dark-sky photography workshop, lead by Desert Institute.

(Curtis Bojorquiz)

Working on different projects throughout the night also allowed us to learn a bit more about photography faux pas that amateurs typically make.

“I always just leave the shutter open, how come no one does that?” Sung-Ho Tsai, an engineer taking the class, asked earlier in the evening.

“You basically want to have the shutter speed as short as you can get away with, but capturing enough light,” Norris explained. “The good thing about doing shorts is you get less digital noise, but also if some Bozo walks through your shop with a headlamp on — which will happen — it only ruins one 15-second shot, and you can throw it away, and it doesn’t affect the rest of your your final star trail.”

Because I didn’t have an intervalometer, I manually took a photo every 20 seconds for an hour. It was certainly more work than if my camera could space shots out on its own, but at least I had good company.

As we killed an hour taking photos for our respective star trails, the class sat on one big rock, chitchatting about airplanes, aliens and long-distance relationships.

Our conversation was occasionally interrupted by one of us spotting a shooting star, which the rest of the group quickly tried to find in the vast darkness.

“You can’t really find them — they’ll find us,” Norris said as we scoured the star-filled sky for more wishes. “You just have to be looking.”

BPCC class bridges gap between modern photography and techniques used 180 years ago

BPCC class bridges gap between modern photography and techniques used 180 years ago

The reason Sir John Herschel invented the cyanotype photography process in 1842 was to create an easier, cheaper and more durable way to process images than the silver-based method, according to the Royal Botanical Gardens website.

Jennifer Robison, Assistant Professor and Program Director for the Communication Media program at BPCC, teaches the cyanotype photography process in her ‘History of Photography’ class.

The reason Jennifer Robinson, assistant professor and program director for the Communication Media program at BPCC, teaches it to her History of Photography students in 2023 is that it “provides students with a foundational understanding of the photographic process, crucial for mastering modern digital techniques.”

She uses the way British photographer Mike Ware created in 1994, one that does not require a darkroom. She just orders 2 solutions online. After that, “all you need to get started is a dimly lit area,” she said.

“Coat your chosen material, let it dry, arrange your objects or negatives, expose them to sunlight or UV bulbs, and as the final step rinse the prints with water,” Robinson said. Her pro tip is adding hydrogen peroxide to the initial water bath to create the vibrant blue coloring that it is known for, and why it developed the name “blueprint.”

These blueprints are not just for building plans. They create beautiful botanical images and can give a new look to a film negative.

“Most students couldn’t wait to start experimenting with designs, incorporating flowers, leaves, and even layering transparent film strips,” Robinson said. “They liked noticing the reactions that occur, like adding salt crystals creating unique patterns or turmeric transforming blue areas into green.”

Jennifer Robison, Assistant Professor and Program Director for the Communication Media program at BPCC, teaches the cyanotype photography process in her ‘History of Photography’ class.

For Robinson, the class is not just about the medium, “it’s a journey into humanity’s documentation through the ages.”

She thinks learning these methods encourages creative exploration, problem-solving techniques and attention to detail.

“Teaching historic photographic processes and darkroom techniques in the digital age may seem outdated, but the value remains substantial,” she said.

Robinson also will head the Bossier Parish Community College Foundation’s second annual Golden Lens Photography Contest in the 2023 Prize Fest. Up to 30 photographs will be selected by a jury panel of experts with first place receiving $1,000 cash.

Prize Fest’s competitions in film, music, fashion, food and more during the month of October are filled with excitement. Robinson feels the same about the photography competition.

“Golden Lens follows that same approach, encouraging photographers to create work within a certain area for an exhibition that will generate a dialogue between work’s about perspective and creativity,” she said.

Louth man who found body photographs landscape every day as part of recovery

Louth man who found body photographs landscape every day as part of recovery
Photographer Paul Gutherson, left, hugged curator Jason Baron at the exhibition's opening nightTake One a Day

An exhibition of landscape photography called Take One a Day inspired by “terrible loss” has opened.

Paul Gutherson discovered the body of a woman who had taken her own life near the River Lud in Louth, Lincolnshire, in November 2020.

He went to counselling after the experience and decided to take photos of the area as part of his recovery.

The images have gone on display at Spout Yard Park Gallery in a display to mark World Mental Health Day.

Mr Gutherson, an amateur photographer, grew up in the area and said he wanted to rediscover the beauty of the landscape by photographing it and putting the pictures on social media.

Louth landscape

Paul Gutherson

“It is the purposeful act of seeking something beautiful,” he said.

“Shutting out negative self-talk through the discipline of looking, especially on difficult days, is what becomes important.”

The exhibition, which will run until 14 October, also featured portraits by artist Richard Ansett.

The artworks are inspired by his work with a men’s mental health support group.

“In this exhibition, we have all tried to make sense of the terrible loss of life of an unknown woman,” Mr Ansett said.

“In her darkest moment, she has brought us together. I hope that this memorialisation reminds others in their moment of despair that people do care.”

Jason Baron, left, curated the exhibition by photographer Paul Gutherson, right

Take One a Day

Photo of Louth landscape

Paul Gutherson

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Graduate dancers and photographers on Kenyan streets: Time-waster or job creation?

Graduate dancers and photographers on Kenyan streets: Time-waster or job creation?

On Sunday mid-morning in Nairobi’s Central Business District, tens of young men and women, mostly graduates, hold tightly to their very expensive phones with enviable megapixels. 

Some place them on small tripods or selfie sticks, others just by hand. Tiny Bluetooth-enabled speakers project loud music. Then there is another group with professional cameras.

In this era where Gen Zs want jobs as influencers and build their dreams on social media, hundreds are flocking to the CBD to create content.

While their parents are busy in churches for job opportunities for their children, these young workers are toiling at becoming business owners — just not in the way their parents might envision.

But is it just a craze that translates to them earning money or a waste of time?

As I am walking through the CBD, I meet a dance group that is doing choreography.

Content creators

Photo credit: Lucy Wanjiru | Nation Media Group

Kevin Wekesa is the Nairobi Street Vibe group leader. He says for months now, it has been customary that every Sunday from 12.30 pm he will be at the CBD, dancing.

They started the dance group early this year when CBD was a quiet place, especially on Sundays when many businesses are closed. CBD is also a central location since his group members come from different parts of Nairobi.

“It’s like a dance academy but no charges. Many young Kenyans are talented dancers but they cannot afford to pay for dance classes,” he says.

“Then using social media, we market the dancers’ skills. Artists approach us and hire the dancers. This makes us add value to the youth, some can even put food on the table with dancing,” he says.

Agnes Nafula is another dancer on the streets. She is a procurement university graduate but has not gotten a formal job yet. She dances on the streets, records and uploads on her 90,300 TikTok fanbase. The 1.2 million likes on her dancer posts also matter to her.

“I am a dancer and I come to CBD almost every Sunday to learn and also meet other dancers as we shoot either TikTok or YouTube content,” Ms Nafula, known as Miss Nafula on her social media handles says.

“This is my source of income so I need to bring new and interesting energy for people to like what I do. My following has many 90,300 followers with 1.2 million likes. I’m not a celebrity but at CBD we get to interact with many TikTokers here on the streets,” says the 23-year-old.

Nairobi Street vibe

Nairobi Street vibe show off their dance moves on the streets Nairobi of on September 24, 2023. 

Photo credit: Lucy Wanjiru | Nation Media Group

The drive to turn social media posts into sustainable income is highest among the youngest generation. Content creation is now the new buzzword. From cooking on three stones to depict the unchanged role of young women in society to twerking inside iron-sheet dwellings in slums to recording humour while sitting on scorched grass in a village, young Kenya fascinated by quick money, some idle and jobless are seeing, this as an elixir of hope.

More than 50,000 students graduate every year, but few get formal jobs. The high unemployment has led to tryouts’ in new careers such as dance and singing content creation. They hope that they will make money by creating content that will attract paying brands.

However, TikTok subSahara Africa director Fortune Mgwili-Sibanda, said in a past interview with Nation Lifestyle that singing and dancing content no longer attracts as many viewers.

“We have seen an evolving consumption. It’s no longer singing and dancing. We are seeing a lot of food, fitness, and business talk. In Africa, sports, especially football, is huge. Stand-up comedy is also popular as is lifestyle, “ he said.

The desire to have Nairobi’s tall buildings as a background in photos and videos has also sparked a thriving photography business. Nowadays, CBD photo shoots are now longer for newbies in the town. On Sunday, models, and those celebrating birthdays take photos at CBD. 

Content creators

Content creators show off their dance moves along Kenyatta Avenue in Nairobi on September 24, 2023.

Photo credit: Lucy Wanjiru | Nation Media Group

“The Instagram reels taken amid these tall beautiful buildings is mind-blowing. CBD delivered an authentic background,” says Nancy, a model and content creator who wore 90s-themed attire for the one-hour Sh4,500 photoshoot.

Don Ndambuki is also a beneficiary of professional street photography.

“I would be lying if I said this was a planned photo session, I’m actually from a friend’s place after a night out,” he says.

“CBD gives a unique background touch you don’t need to struggle with colour change because everything is outstanding on its own. Imagine for only Sh100 I get a photo of my choice, this is good business for the photographer and an advantage to us who like photos.”

For photographers who now frequent the CBD, they say this is a new strategy called ‘photography hawking’ where they take instant random shots and charge Ksh 100 which makes it very affordable. 

“I love street photography and CBD has given us the chance to explore and earn money. It has amazing, different sites and backgrounds to choose from,’’ says Swaleh Lawless, a 28-year-old photographer.

Mr Swaleh is a civil engineer graduate from Kenyatta University. 

“I gave up a year ago in my job hunting after every office I walked into wanted someone who had five years experience. So I had to create an income stream for my survival,” he says.

Lawless Swaleh

Lawless Swaleh, a street photographer, takes pictures of his friends along Kenyatta Avenue, Nairobi on September 24, 2023.

Photo credit: Lucy Wanjiru | Nation Media Group

He had started photography while at the university as a hobby and better still advanced his skills after buying a Canon 90D with a lens 85mm and a strobe 600 pro AD.

“CBD imekuwa form [loosely translated to CBD is the new trend] we pay nothing yet we go back home with good money,’’ he says.

Job Omanga is another graduate. He graduated with a Bachelor of Science degree from the University of Nairobi.

“Sometimes we do not get good guidance on the courses to choose after high school. I have a Bachelor’s degree in Science but I did it for the sake of because I have never had a chance to venture in any career related to the field of study,” he says. 

Mr Omanga says he has been doing photography for six years now. 

“I have no regrets,” he says, “CBD gives you a wide range of options and there is an opportunity to get quick money unlike in studios where you wait for bookings. Every Sunday is a chance to earn an extra coin from the street, I get about 40 percent extra compared to what I earn in the studio.”

He says photography has evolved, hence turning into a money-spinner.

“I have to keep advancing my camera. Currently, I’m using the Canon 250D. It allows images to communicate the mood and have life. I even take photos of Nairobi matatus ‘nganya’ as they speed out of town to beat traffic,” he says.

Local photographers’ work on display at the Sikeston Depot

Local photographers’ work on display at the Sikeston Depot

Local photographer Larry Braun of Benton, Missouri, looks at his collection on display at the Sikeston Depot Museum.

Submitted photo

SIKESTON – Local photographers Larry Braun and Clay Guthrie collaborated to create a cooperative photography display with a fall theme at the Sikeston Depot Museum.

Sikeston Depot Museum Administrator Shelia Bohannon said the exhibit, which is open through Nov. 1, is centered on rural and fall/autumn photography and features a large number of local shots.

Braun resides in Benton, Missouri, and works as a streetscape and landscape photographer. According to Bohannon, Braun focuses his work on the outdoors in historic districts, state parks and small towns in Missouri, Illinois, Arkansas and Kentucky. Braun’s photographs have been highly successful; they are shown in the Southeast and St. Francis hospitals, and one of them was even chosen to be featured on a U.S. postage stamp.

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Local photographer Clay Guthrie of East Prairie, Missouri, straightens one of his photos on display at the Sikeston Depot Museum.

Submitted photo

Guthrie is a photographer and an East Prairie, Missouri, native. Although landscapes are the main subject of his photography, he also frequently includes wildlife, cityscapes and even extreme weather. Bohannon said Guthrie’s photos have appeared in magazines and are displayed on the walls of homes and businesses. 

This is their first joint solo exhibition, and according to Bohannon, Guthrie has greatly benefited from Braun.

Braun said he has known Guthrie for a long time and has helped Guthrie in his photographic ventures over the years. 

Braun said Bohannon got in touch with him and expressed her desire for an autumn scene display. Braun said he then gathered about 30 of his own pictures, framed them, and put them on display at the Depot. 

According to Braun, the majority of his photographs are from local areas in Southeast Missouri. 

“I have some of Sikeston, Charleston, Benton, a lot of Scott County, and Cape Girardeau County,” Braun said. “It’s a nice collection of autumn scenes from our community.”

Photos of Tywappity Lake near Chaffee, Missouri; streets in Benton; the Mississippi River; the Castor River shut-ins; and many other locations may also be found in Braun’s display. 

According to Guthrie, he has about eight pieces in the exhibit, and all of them have a fall theme. The majority of his work is set in rural and countryside settings. 

Guthrie said he met Braun in a local photography group when he first started getting into nature photography a few years ago.

“We were both at the time members of the River Region Photography Association, which is a camera club in Cape Girardeau,” Guthrie said. “I saw a lot of his work, asked questions and talked to him quite a bit about stuff. He’s been definitely an inspiration with a lot of his work and a very big help.”

Guthrie and Braun both said they have received excellent comments from people who have visited the photography exhibit, and they encourage the community to go and see the exhibit.

The Sikeston Depot Museum is open from 10 a.m. to 4 pm. Monday through Saturday.

Have some of history’s most famous photographs been lying all along?

Have some of history’s most famous photographs been lying all along?

A new NGV exhibition shows that long before we’d heard of fake news, the truth was being tampered with.

By Ray Edgar

October 10, 2023

Robert Capa’s Death of a soldier, Spain, 1936 (detail), left, and Joe Rosenthal’s Raising the flag on Iwo Jima, 1945. 

Robert Capa’s Death of a soldier, Spain, 1936 (detail), left, and Joe Rosenthal’s Raising the flag on Iwo Jima, 1945. Credit: NGV

Loyalist Militiaman at the Moment of Death, Cerro Muriano, September 5, 1936. The title is so specific, the image so authentically grainy, the soldier’s fall so sudden and ungainly. You can almost hear the crack of the sniper’s bullet echo through the desolate landscape.

Capturing decisive moments doesn’t get much more definitive than Robert Capa’s famous image from the Spanish Civil War (later retitled Death of a Soldier, Spain). But was it sniper or machine-gun fire? Was it Cerro Muriano or Espejo, 50 kilometres away? Was it even Capa who took it, or was it his partner Gerda Taro? Was it staged? These questions and more arose some 40 years after the shot was taken.

The dictum goes that the first casualty of war is truth. We might add that naivety dies alongside it. While the jury is out on whether the photograph was simply miscaptioned, Capa’s possible betrayal hits hard. Perhaps it’s because in this age of loose truths – accusations of fake news, legal and political obfuscation and plausible deniability – we expect old-fashioned integrity and truth from photojournalism, particularly its patron saint Capa, martyred covering the Indochina war in 1954.

Susan van Wyk, the NGV’s senior curator of photography, says it’s not the only image in an upcoming exhibition whose authenticity was later thrown into question. She was shocked to learn that Joe Rosenthal’s famous World War II image of soldiers raising the stars and stripes on Japan’s Mount Suribachi was restaged. Louis Lowery took the original image. But the military brass, seeing a propaganda opportunity, called for a bigger flag and a reshoot. Joe Rosenthal’s recreation became the image we remember.

“It did make me question, why did I just assume Joe Rosenthal was at the front of the battle at that exact moment?” says van Wyk. “Maybe he was, maybe he wasn’t. And some of that’s got to do with the iconic status of that image. Images sometimes take on other lives and do become the tool of propaganda, or [in Lowery’s case] do disappear from history.”

Photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson in Juvisy, France, in 1938.

Photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson in Juvisy, France, in 1938.Credit: Nicholas Umek/ NGV

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Photography: Real and Imagined is the first retrospective in 20 years of the NGV’s massive collection. Van Wyk calls the show “an open invitation to inquiry. We should question everything”. The exhibition includes more than 270 images (selected from 15,000 in the collection) and is packed with masterpieces from a who’s who of photography: Julia Margaret Cameron, Man Ray, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Horst P. Horst, Dora Maar, Lee Friedlander, Cindy Sherman, Hiroshi Sugimoto, the Starn twins, Max Dupain and Tracey Moffatt, to name a few. Across 21 themes – including narrative, consumption, work, play, conflict and death – the works range from conceptual to documentary, vernacular to fashion and advertising.

From the outset, photography carried the expectation of representing the truth, says van Wyk. But, pondering the collection, she admits: “I don’t know that there’s anything there that you could say categorically hands down this tells you the entire truth of this moment, this event, this person. One of the questions you have to ask straight up is, ‘well, whose truth?’ The subject’s truth? The photographer’s truth? The viewer’s truth? How do you represent truth? It’s incredibly nuanced.”

Compare the way photographers documented the impact of industrialisation. Lewis Hine’s images of children working in factories changed US labor laws. Others are less clear-cut. Kusakabe Kimbei’s interior of a carpet factory in Meiji-era Japan is presented next to Viv Méhes’ Melbourne textile factory workers. They look almost identical but were made 100 years apart. “One celebrates industrialisation, and the other reflects poor working conditions for largely migrant women,” says van Wyk.

From left, Wolfgang Sievers’ Shift change at Kelly & Lewis Engineering Works, Springvale, Melbourne 1949; Kusakabe Kimbei, Weaving carpets, 1880s-1910s; Viv Méhes, A Melbourne textile factory, 1981.

From left, Wolfgang Sievers’ Shift change at Kelly & Lewis Engineering Works, Springvale, Melbourne 1949; Kusakabe Kimbei, Weaving carpets, 1880s-1910s; Viv Méhes, A Melbourne textile factory, 1981.Credit: NGV

Contrast that with Wolfgang Sievers’ 1949 image of workers entering a Springvale engineering factory. Sievers came from a Bauhaus tradition that valued modernisation. He didn’t see factory work as soul-destroying. “His photography reflects a deeply held conviction in the dignity of workers and he depicts workers with upturned smiling faces waiting to enter the factory,” she says.

Ironically, by the 1970s, when photography was being recognised as a collectible commodity, writer and critic Susan Sontag was lamenting the medium’s bankruptcy. Through oversaturation “the vast photographic catalogue of misery and injustice” was losing its power.

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“In the last decades, concerned photography has done at least as much to deaden conscience as to arouse it,” she writes in On Photography. The age of Instagram and 24-hour news has done little to enliven our numbed conscience.

To revivify the documentary image and compel us to feel, conceptual artist Hank Willis Thomas almost adopts the tactic of the selfie. Thomas appropriates an image of a pivotal moment in the US Civil Rights movement, known as Black Sunday. On March 7, 1965, police beat civil rights activists as they marched on Alabama’s state capital. Press photographer Spider Martin captured civil rights leader Amelia Boynton at the moment she collapsed from a police assault. In Amelia Falling (2014) Thomas removes the background and places the activists on a mirror.

Hank Willis Thomas’ Amelia Falling, 2014 places the original photograph on a mirror.

Hank Willis Thomas’ Amelia Falling, 2014 places the original photograph on a mirror.Credit: Christian Markel/ NGV

“The image becomes empowered again because we’re confronted with the extraordinary reality of it,” says van Wyk. “You can’t be indifferent to the scene in front of you because suddenly Thomas has made you part of it. You’re with Amelia as she falls to the ground. It’s like us all becoming part of history.”

Where Thomas literally reframes history, Indigenous artist Maree Clarke reclaims it by subverting formalist photography. Traditionally a thumbprint on an image would indicate a mistake or rough handling. In Clarke’s case her thumbprint on a landscape image reclaims Country.

Maree Clarke, On the banks of the Murrumbidgee River II (Army tent and suitcase) 2019.

Maree Clarke, On the banks of the Murrumbidgee River II (Army tent and suitcase) 2019.Credit: Maree Clarke

If photographers have always been drawn to documenting the truth, they are also aware of the fun in staging a scene and messing with reality. Van Wyk cites Hippolyte Bayard’s 1840 Self-Portrait as a Drowned Man. “Of course, he wasn’t a drowned man, but there he was creating this image and putting forward the proposition that maybe he was. But right from the outset, the medium had that capacity to be used to tell stories and to present ideas and information as the photographer wished.”

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That artifice continues with artists such as Cindy Sherman, whose highly composed self-portraits emulate movie stills and media constructs. Alex Prager goes a step further. In Crowd #11 (Cedar and Broad Street), shot in 2013, she captures the chaos of reality. Shooting inside film studios, she builds elaborate sets and employs actors.

“If you look at the details of the costuming and the make-up and the hair, the characters have a certain familiarity because they suggest television or film or something we might have seen before,” says van Wyk. “But it’s entirely a world of her imagination.”

Alex Prager, Crowd #11 (Cedar and Broad Street) 2013 inkjet print, NGV.

Alex Prager, Crowd #11 (Cedar and Broad Street) 2013 inkjet print, NGV.Credit: Alex Prager/Lehmann Maupin

These images become less fun as reality becomes harder to distinguish.

“That space between what’s real and what’s not has recently become even more blurry,” says van Wyk. “Fake news and imagery constructed using artificial intelligence takes it to a whole new level. [Yet] somehow photography still carries the weight of being the unimpeachable witness. We believe photographs tell us the truth.” Until they don’t.

Photography: Real and Imagined is at The Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia, from October 13.

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Former Los Alamos Resident Doug Coombs’s Photography Featured Through Nov. 13 In Village Arts Exhibit

Former Los Alamos Resident Doug Coombs’s Photography Featured Through Nov. 13 In Village Arts Exhibit

An exhibit of photography by Doug Coombs is now on display at Village Arts at 216 DP Road in Los Alamos. Courtesy photo

Some of the landscape photos by Doug Coombs that are currently exhibited at Village Arts. Courtesy photo

VILLAGE ARTS NEWS RELEASE

Naturescapes by Doug Coombs is a solo photography exhibition that invites the viewer to glimpse stunning landscapes and unique animal encounters.  On display at Village Arts through Nov. 13, Doug’s work promises to take you across the country, and around the globe, and with his emphasis on the big skies of the west and his Milky Way photography, there’s a chance that he’ll even transport you across the universe!

Doug’s own journey with photography as a medium began as a teen with film based photography. In the early eighties he photographed sports at the University of Arizona, where he worked as a darkroom tech and photographer. Later when his kids played soccer for Los Alamos High School he avidly photographed their matches.

Doug is a retired software engineer/developer from Los Alamos National Laboratory and has been doing digital photography for over 20 years. He lived in Los Alamos for 35 years where he  co-chaired and chaired the Los Alamos Photography Club and the Los Alamos Adobe Users Group.  Doug currently resides in Pagosa Springs where he is an active member of the Pagosa Springs Photography Club, but continues to actively show his work in Los Alamos.  Doug and his wife Miyuki travel to destinations nationally and internationally on a regular basis to pursue photographic opportunities. Destinations include Africa, Brazil, Alaska, Yellowstone National Park, Teton National Park, Bisti Badlands, Arches National Park, Bosque del Apache NM, New Mexico, Colorado and more.

Village Arts is open 9-4 Monday through Friday and 10-4 Saturday and is located at 216 DP Road.  For more information on Doug’s work and to see more of his photography, find him on Facebook and Instagram and at his website https://www.dougsview.com/.  Doug also has a broad selection of framed and matted work available at the Fuller Lodge Art Center.

Doug Coombs/Courtesy photo