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A Local’s Guide to Majorca

A Local’s Guide to Majorca

T’s new monthly travel series, Flocking To, highlights places you might already have on your wish list, sharing tips from frequent visitors and locals alike. Sign up here to find us in your inbox once a month, as well as our weekly T List newsletter. And you can always reach us at tlist@nytimes.com.


Majorca, the largest of Spain’s Balearic Islands, has been a classic summer destination for Europeans and Brits for decades. But long before the big resorts sprung up along the coastline and villas came with helipads, the island’s hilltop villages attracted artists, musicians and writers in search of year-round sun and solitude. Among the best known of those early visitors were the Polish composer Frédéric Chopin and the French novelist George Sand, who spent the winter of 1838 in the town of Valldemossa, in the mountains above Majorca’s northwest coast. By 1929, when the British writer Robert Graves and the American poet Laura Riding arrived in the nearby village of Deià — at the recommendation of the American writer Gertrude Stein — and later built a home there, that picturesque hamlet of stone houses and olive groves was already a fledgling artists’ colony. In 1956, the Barcelona-born artist Joan Miró and his family moved to the outskirts of Palma. Plenty of artistic talent was homegrown, too, nurtured by generations of weavers, glassblowers and ceramists. One of Spain’s most prominent contemporary artists, Miquel Barceló, grew up on the island painting landscapes with his mother and her friends. Among the island’s many signature local crafts is the roba de llengües, or cloth of tongues, a style of ikat believed to have arrived from Asia centuries ago via the Silk Road. And it’s that deeply rooted artistic tradition combined with an extraordinary natural beauty that’s attracting the latest influx of creative types. In the last few years, a number of artists and designers have left larger cities in Europe and moved to Majorca. Some of these new arrivals are renovating old houses and farms in and around the country towns of Sóller and Deià or choosing to base themselves in Palma’s Old Town, where Gothic spires loom over the port, and there’s a fresh wave of contemporary art galleries and idiosyncratic shops dedicated to supporting local artisans. All over the island, new or newly revived hotels compete for the most impressive views.

For the first installment of our series of Flocking To travel guides, we asked four locals or frequent visitors to Majorca to share the places they love most. One word of advice for first-time visitors: Majorca sprawls across roughly 1,400 square miles (it’s about the size of Long Island), so if you’re planning on exploring, you might want to rent a car.

A map of Majorca, marked with the places featured in this guide.

Stefania Borras, the designer and founder of the fashion line Datura and a native Majorcan, opened the Datura Studio Isla boutique in Deià, Majorca, in 2022.

Dalad Kambhu, originally from Bangkok, is the chef and co-owner of Kindee, a Michelin-starred Thai restaurant in Berlin. Since the year 2020, Kambhu has been spending several months a year on Majorca with her husband, the architectural designer Geoffrey Grunfeld.

Adriana Meunié, the textile artist, is a native Majorcan who moved back to the island in 2014 after working in Barcelona and Berlin.

Matthew Williamson, the fashion designer turned interior designer, moved from London to Majorca in 2016. His first home décor book, “Living Bright,” comes out in October.


Left: Es Racó d’Artà hotel, designed by the architect and co-owner Antoni Esteva. Right: one of the guest rooms at Es Racó d’Artà.Ricardo Gonçalves

“I was incredibly impressed with the newly reinvented Grand Hotel Son Net [about eight miles west of Palma] when I went to visit the other day. It’s a very special place: old-school but fresh and contemporary, and jasmine as far as the eye could see. It has all the bells and whistles but doesn’t feel too stuffy. I also recently found an especially cute little place in Palma called Palma Riad. It’s Moroccan inspired — there is in fact a lot of Islamic influence on Majorca because it was under Muslim rule for centuries — and feels very new for Palma. I would also go there for pre-dinner drinks.” (Rooms at Grand Hotel Son Net from about $650 a night; rooms at Palma Riad from about $600 a night)Matthew Williamson

“For me, Antoni Esteva, the co-owner and architect of Es Racó d’Artà [in the island’s northeast], is a poet. I think he really understands space, light, materials and the beauty of simplicity so profoundly. All of his projects, from the gallery Sa Pleta Freda in Son Servera to the hotel Son Gener, are created with such a strong vision that connects the past with the future.” (Rooms from about $520 a night) Adriana Meunié

“I am so excited about the new Hotel Corazón [in the northwest]. It was just opened by two friends of mine, the artists Kate Bellm and Edgar Lopez. One of my favorite chefs on the island, Grace Berrow, is cooking there.” (Rooms from about $380 a night) — Stefania Borras


Left: the Ca na Toneta restaurant in the town of Caimari. Right: prawn tartare at Ca na Toneta.Ricardo Gonçalves

“Maria Solivellas, the chef and owner of Ca na Toneta, in the rural village of Caimari, cooks traditional Majorcan food [seasonal options include coca, a flatbread topped with fresh roasted peppers or arroz brut, a savory rice casserole] but her own way, and [often] with vegetables she grows herself. Be sure to check out her shop where you can find locally made ceramics.” — A.M.

“The food at Sa Foradada is good — go for the paella — but the views of the sea and the cliffs are insane. It’s only accessible by boat or by a hike of almost an hour, and it’s essential to book in advance — tables are limited. When it comes to fish, Casa Manolo [in the southern village of Ses Salines] is one of my favorites on the island. I used to go there as a kid with my dad who always loved eating well. It’s a very traditional place not far from amazing beaches. For drinks in the evening, I love Bar La Sang in Palma. This homey natural wine bar is kind of the place to be at the moment because the island’s natural wine scene is getting really interesting. You can order small, delicious bites, and there are often different visiting chefs cooking here.” — S.B.

Calamar de potera a la plancha, one of the signature dishes at Casa Manolo, a restaurant in the southern village of Ses Salines.Ricardo Gonçalves

Cati Ribot is a female winemaker based in the island’s northeast, in Santa Margalida. She’s doing beautiful natural wines made from indigenous grapes [such as prensal blanc and escursac]. Her natural wine tastings are on Saturdays only and you must email for appointments. I also love Ses Coves, a rustic restaurant in the north of the island at the foot of Puig de Sant Miquel, which specializes in Spanish meat and fish cooked over fire. Especially delicious are the grilled sweetbreads. Everything was so good; I was sucking on the bones. Afterward, I recommend going to the nearby caves that have the most incredible stalagmite and stalactite formations.” — Dalad Kambhu


Left: tableware designed by Cortana’s founder, Rosa Esteva. Right: plant-dyed bags and T-shirts at Earth Core.Ricardo Gonçalves

“Inside Villa Rullan, in Deià, are a very charming bistro and a boutique. The shop, named Joy, sells a great mix of locally and sustainably made crafts, from baskets and bags handwoven with palm leaves or grass to whimsical hand-painted ceramic mugs.” — M.W.

La Pecera is a great design store in Palma founded by Marlene Albaladejo, who’s an important sustainable design pioneer on the island. Look for chairs made partly with woven local bulrush grass and woven palm leaf pendant lamps.” — A.M.

“The fashion designer Rosa Esteva [of the Cortana brand and boutiques] is the definition of a Majorcan woman: so elegant, sophisticated and proud of her land and identity. Her new shop in Palma is stunning. It’s a maze of white rooms that feature her clothes: beautiful, practical and made from natural materials. She makes clothes for women who are active and the colors she uses perfectly reflect the hues of the island. Earth Core is a new gallery and boutique in the town of Sóller. It was opened by transplants from Berlin: Karin [Oender] and David [Mallon], the founders of Souvenir Official, a very cool T-shirt and hoodie brand. I appreciate it because it’s essentially a love letter to the island and pays tribute to local artisans, produce and plants. They serve up great fruit juices and use local plant dyes for their T-shirts, wraps and fabric bags.” — D.K.


Left: Cala Figuera, a seaside village in the southeast of the island. Right: the Valldemossa Sunday Market is one of the best places on the island to buy local produce and delicacies.Ricardo Gonçalves

Cala Figuera is a charming fishing village in the southeast of the island that looks like Ibiza with its whitewashed buildings that descend into the bay.” — M.W.

Valldemossa Sunday Market is the best spot to buy local delicacies like dried figs and peaches, honey, cheeses and charcuterie. Look for Joan and his tiny stall called Can Bernat. He is such a funny character and will make you try everything.” — S.B.

“The new La Bibi Gallery is adding some energy to the contemporary art scene in Palma, hosting progressive shows and also international artists through its residency program. Xtant is an excellent new textile and craft fair that takes place in May. It brings textile artisans here from around the world and offers lectures and events that are open to the public.” — A.M

Meet the former national park tour guide now leading Navy football

Meet the former national park tour guide now leading Navy football

ANNAPOLIS, Md. — Brian Newberry, the first-year head coach at Navy, reads a meditation from Marcus Aurelius every day. His summer reading list included “The Inner Game of Tennis” — long endorsed by Pete Carroll for the thinking football coach — and he’s a devout follower of John Wooden’s sporting philosophy.

With a bushy white beard and a résumé that includes amateur photography and being a tour guide at Glacier National Park, Newberry’s background isn’t from the academy handbook. After all, he’s from a landlocked state (Oklahoma) and once left the football coaching profession for six months and pondered applying to the Rocky Mountain School of Photography.

Newberry’s affinity for photography, nurtured from his time at Glacier, has taught him that light can often change perspective. And while he doesn’t fit the buzz-cut portrait of an academy coach, he has the opportunity to deliver Navy football into a new light.

The country will get a high-profile close-up of Newberry on Saturday. His debut after being elevated from Navy’s defensive coordinator comes in Dublin, Ireland, against No. 13 Notre Dame, the highest-profile game of Week 0 of the college football season.

While his look may be out of the military school paradigm, his hard-earned path to this spot and mentality will resonate with Navy fans.

“My philosophy and mentality is the same as when I was a defensive coordinator,” Newberry said. “We’re going to be super aggressive. We have nothing to lose.”

Newberry’s path here came after a modest playing career at Baylor was curtailed by injuries. By earning his degree in education there in 1998, he became the first member of his family to graduate from college.

His first job was at Glacier National Park in Montana, giving guided Red Bus tours in vintage 1930s convertible buses. Newberry would drive a nearly 35-mile road through the park, through the Rockies, over the continental divide and deliver a Going-To-The-Sun Road Tour.

He had about two weeks to prepare, which is a short time for a park with a long history. He admits to fumbling his first few attempts. “I was a horrible tour guide,” he said. “I got better as I went.”

He also picked up photography, joking that he joined Instagram back in 2011 when it was more of a place for photographers to showcase their work than a social media platform. His Instagram features snowscapes, skies with a kaleidoscope of colors, rustic farms, beaches at sunset and the occasional breathtaking mountain landscape, along with portraits of his family, including his wife, Kate, and two children.

He still has a Nikon 750 that he fiddles with in his free time. But he began experimenting in and around Glacier, where the area near the Many Glacier Hotel remains his favorite.

“The way you look at light and the way it hits things, and it just changes you,” Newberry said. “You’re more perceptive of your surroundings a little bit.”

The hobby shines a light on Newberry’s coaching style.

“I think I’m a little more Type B than the Type A, which is probably unusual for coaches,” Newberry told ESPN in his office this spring. “Most of them are pretty organized, and that’s not a strong suit for me. It hasn’t been, and I’ve had to develop. So I think the creativity piece is something that I may be pretty good at.”

And Newberry realized after dabbling in teaching that he could perhaps apply some of that creativity in coaching. He was recruited to Baylor by Grant Teaff, who helped him after Newberry sent letters to nearly every coach in the country.

Southern Arkansas coach Steve Roberts answered, and Newberry began a bootstrap career in Magnolia, Arkansas. While the surroundings and pay were modest, the experience was invaluable.

Roberts’ program ran the wishbone, as option football in some form has wound through Newberry’s career. And he soon found out how to operate as an underdog.

“We didn’t have the biggest budget, the best facilities,” Roberts said in a phone interview. “We did a lot of that ourselves — painting the fields or building meeting rooms or making 125 lockers for a locker room. We did it all. Brian was a part of that.”

Newberry’s path includes nearly two decades at lower levels before his first FBS job at Navy, which hired him as the defensive coordinator for the 2019 season. He bounced through Washington & Lee, Lehigh, back to Washington & Lee, Elon, Sewanee, Northern Michigan and Kennesaw State.

Newberry is appreciative of his long and winding path.

“I needed to be a GA and get beat down and cut grass and paint fields and clean bathrooms and locker rooms and do all that stuff,” Newberry said. “But it was awesome for me because as a GA at Southern Arkansas, I had a recruiting area. I ran a room early on. Most don’t get to do that. In retrospect, that was the best thing that could possibly happen to me. ‘Cause I got humbled a little bit and I did a lot of groundwork, which I needed to do.”

Newberry worked as the defensive coordinator for Ken Niumatalolo, the former Navy coach for whom he holds a strong appreciation. Newberry’s team will have some traits of those Navy teams and also new twists: an aggressive defense under new coordinator P.J. Volker and some new wrinkles in the option offense under new offensive coordinator Grant Chesnut, who comes from Kennesaw.

“I’ve coached a lot of places where we had to do more with less, so to speak,” Newberry said. “And that’s certainly the case here. The players know that we have to be the closest team in the country. We have to be the most disciplined team in the country. We got to be tougher than everybody else. We’ve got to play harder than everybody else.”

Whether or not those intangibles come together will unfold in front of millions on Saturday. Navy is a 21-point underdog to Notre Dame, as Newberry has a grand stage to unveil the new-look Midshipmen.

“In the right light at the right time,” Newberry said of the lessons from photography, “everything is extraordinary.”

And on Saturday in Dublin, Navy will try any way possible to deliver a memorable picture in the first snapshot the country will get of its first-year coach.

Indigenous youth connect to land, elders, and careers in the outdoors in Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks

Indigenous youth connect to land, elders, and careers in the outdoors in Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks
image

A group of young Native leaders reconnected with their ancestral roots through a week-long adventure trip to the Teton and Yellowstone National Parks this August. The trip blended environmental education, intergenerational storytelling, ecological knowledge, cultural preservation, and outdoor exploration.

Thirteen youth from the Wind River Reservation and the Pine Ridge Reservation in South Dakota came on the expedition as part of the Indigenous Youth Voices youth group. They were joined by five traditional elders and teachers from the Lakota, Dakota, Northern Arapaho, Eastern Shoshone, and Blackfeet Nations.

The trip was the first of its kind for the group, which partnered with Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks and Teton Science Schools. It included kayaking at String Lake, whitewater rafting on the Snake River, and a wildlife tour through Yellowstone.

Lynnette Grey Bull is the leader of the youth group, which she started in early 2022. The group aims to expose young people to connections with the land and to leadership opportunities with conservation and outdoor recreation partners.

Grey Bull said she hopes these kinds of trips help support the next generation of Indigenous environmental stewards and create pathways into jobs and leadership positions in outdoor education, climate change and conservation.

“I want to create more spaces where our Native youth feel comfortable being out with the National Park, with entities like the Teton Science School and other groups out there that work on the great outdoors and work on environmental protection and climate change,” she said.

Grey Bull, who is Northern Arapaho and Hunkpapa Lakota, said there’s an overall shortage of people working in conservation and climate-oriented fields at large – and that Indigenous peoples’ stewardship-oriented traditions and worldviews are especially crucial for meaningful environmental work.

“We are taught at a young age that we use our medicinal plants during our ceremony times – cedars, sage, red willow and other elements – and every tribe has their own elements of what they use for medicinal and ceremonial practices,” Grey Bull said. “So we understand at a young age how important the earth is, we call animals our relatives.”

Even over the course of a few days, Grey Bull said she saw a noticeable change in the group.

“I hear them talking about ‘How can we get jobs in these areas? What kind of school do we have to go to learn more?’ All of them have told me, ‘Make sure you’re calling me on the next trip, you know, make sure to include me,’” she said.

Indigenous people used to inhabit and manage the spaces that have become National Parks and what are now called “public” lands. Yellowstone National Park is no exception – many different tribes interacted with the lands, waters, plants and animals of the area prior to being moved onto reservations by the U.S. government. Their long-lasting legacy of stewardship of the area was also removed from the park’s narrative for many years so that it could be marketed as “pristine” and “untrammeled.”

But despite this history of removal and erasure, Native peoples today continue to have long-lasting and powerful connections to the area – Yellowstone National Park recognizes 27 tribes with historical and contemporary ties to the land and Grand Teton National Park recognizes 24 associated tribes with connection to the lands and resources of the area. An article by Dr. Shane Doyle (Apsáalooke/Crow) on Indigenous place names in and around Yellowstone National Park speaks to a long and rich connection still alive today, and Native artists continue to highlight their contemporary presence in the space through art exhibits like Yellowstone Revealed.

Grey Bull said that, during their wildlife tour in Yellowstone, the group was able to share some of their own knowledge of the area with their wildlife guides in an act of cross-cultural learning.

“It wasn’t just them teaching us – we learned a lot from them, but we also were teaching them that this is our ancestral lands. This land, particularly Jackson and Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Park, was our ancestral homelands for the Dakota, Lakota, Eastern Shoshone, Northern Arapaho, Nez Perce and Flatheads and a whole plethora of other tribes. We all have ancestral ties here,” she said.

Throughout the week, the elders and teachers on the trip told traditional stories and emphasized the importance of the oral storytelling tradition. Dr. Tarissa Spoonhunter, a professor of American Indian studies at Central Wyoming College, spoke to the students about the intersections of traditional ecological knowledge and careers in the fields of science, technology, engineering, and math.

Dr. Spoonhunter, who is an enrolled member of the Northern Arapaho Tribe and a descendant of the Blackfoot Confederacy, also led the students in an activity practicing spoken and signed words in Arapaho.

Grey Bull said that creating the space for knowledge to be shared between the different generations who came on the trip was invaluable.

“Not only do we share our language and speak our language, but we also share things that they [the students] probably haven’t learned and won’t be able to learn in school. Some of our traditional and oral knowledge and historical knowledge, as many people know, is not told in the right way,” she said.

Grey Bull said she hopes the trip can be the first of many more opportunities for connections across generations, lines of work, and walks of life.

“I think it’s about time to build those bridges and build those educational spaces so that we can cross-educate and cross-knowledge share,” she said.

See How Photographers Reimagine Old Master Paintings

See How Photographers Reimagine Old Master Paintings
Double Mona Lisa (Peanut Butter and Jelly)

“Art About Art” features photos inspired by old masters, such as Double Mona Lisa (Peanut Butter and Jelly) by Vik Muniz.
Vik Muniz

As the Princeton University Art Museum undergoes renovations, its old master paintings remain behind closed doors. Still, even in storage, such works are the inspiration behind a new show, which opened on August 19: “Art About Art: Contemporary Photographers Look at Old Master Paintings.”

“As we rebuild, I wanted to remind the students and community at large that we have wonderful old master paintings in the collection that we can’t show at this time,” Ronni Baer, a curator of the exhibition, tells the Observer’s Casey Epstein-Gross.

“Art About Art” features 13 contemporary artists’ reimaginings of old master works. The show will be on view at the museum’s Art on Hulfish gallery while the main museum is closed for construction.

Lavatory Self-Portraits in the Flemish Style

In two photos from Nina Katchadourian’s Lavatory Self-Portraits in the Flemish Style, the artist uses toilet paper to mimic features of the attire of a 15th-century Flemish couple.

Nina Katchadourian

“This exhibition reveals how vital the art of the past remains to many artists working today,” says Baer in a statement from the museum. “The selection will encourage viewers to consider how contemporary photographers respond in various ways to famous compositions, seek to explore emotions as expressed in historical paintings, address issues of identity that were as pressing then as now and apply new technologies in surprising ways.”

Photos on display include Vik Muniz’s Double Mona Lisa (Peanut Butter and Jelly), inspired by Andy Warhol’s prints from the 1960s. The piece recreates the famous Leonardo da Vinci twice over—once in peanut butter, once in jelly.

Also on view is a diptych from Nina Katchadourian’s series Lavatory Self-Portraits in the Flemish Style. The artist poses as both the man and woman of a 15th-century Flemish couple, using toilet paper to portray distinctive features of their attire.

In another work, Ori Gersht crafts an arrangement in the style of European still life paintings. He then destroys the fruit in it, capturing the exact moment of explosion.

Pomegranate (Off Balance)

Pomegranate (Off Balance) by Ori Gersht captures the moment a pomegranate in a still life arrangement is destroyed.

Ori Gersht

The show is part of Princeton’s mission to “assure that works of the past can still be understood as living, breathing objects that were contemporary in their own time, and thus still have the capacity to spark inquiry,” says James Steward, the museum’s director, in the statement.

The exhibition explores centuries-old themes such as “identity and the fleetingness of life and … how we choose to live,” Baer tells Artnet’s Taylor Dafoe. For example, Jeanette May’s Dot Matrix, from the series Tech Vanitas, plays on the vanitas paintings of the Netherlands in the 17th century, which juxtaposed the inevitability of death with the trappings of affluence. However, rather than silk or ornate goblets, May’s photos feature obsolete technology thrown to the side in the pursuit of the next big thing.

Dot Matrix, Tech Vanitas

Jeanette May’s Dot Matrix, from the series Tech Vanitas, puts a contemporary twist on 17th-century Dutch still life paintings.

Jeanette May

“I think the exhibition provides inspirational teaching opportunities, raising questions about identity and iconicity and how and why artists engage with the art of the past,” Baer tells the Observer. At the same time, however, the show is designed to have a wide appeal, offering explorations of existential questions alongside “moments of fun and whimsy and discovery.”

“Some of the art is serious,” says Baer to Artnet. “But I hope people come and laugh.”

Art About Art: Contemporary Photographers Look at Old Master Paintings” is on view at Art on Hulfish in Princeton, New Jersey, through November 5.

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