Unrestricted Giving, Unlimited Possibilities

Unrestricted Giving, Unlimited Possibilities

Editor’s Note: In partnership with the Doris Duke Foundation and the Sheri and Les Biller Family Foundation, TCG’s THRIVE! Uplifting Theatres of Color initiative offered $1,140,000, equaling 46 grants in 3 categories, to U.S.-based (including Tribal lands and Territories) Black Theatres, Indigenous Theatres, and Theatres of Color (BITOC). In addition to the funds, 21 BITOC receiving RECOGNIZE category grants also participated in REBUILD, a learning cohort working with BIPOC consultants to strengthen their effectiveness in specific areas. The initiative was created with an advisory committee of 14 BIPOC theatre leaders and artists. To further uplift these companies, American Theatre magazine approached myself (Regina Victor, editor of Rescripted) and fellow cultural critic Jose Solís to curate and edit six articles highlighting the RECOGNIZE companies, with each of us guiding three pieces. It was our work to divide and then re-thread these companies together into articles with common themes, source writers and assign them, and edit their drafts, with American Theatre seeing to the final copy edit. These stories are examined through the lens of this year’s critically focused Rising Leaders of Color cohort (Amanda L. Andrei, Citlali Pizarro, and afrikah selah), as well as three Chicago-based writers (Dillon Chitto, Madie Doppelt, and Tina El Gamal). This six-part essay series showcases 21 examples of people doing the work, championing their culture, and finding creative solutions to generational problems. Thank you to Jose for being a wonderful thought partner in this project, and to Emilya Cachapero and Raksak Kongseng for your invitation and support.


Unrestricted support. Support without expectation, or conditions.

This is a foreign concept to most theatres that identify as Black, Indigenous, or Theatres of Color (BITOC), as well as to most theatre leaders of color. So many of us have grown accustomed to a dysfunctional system of philanthrocapitalism, upon which the future of our organizations, and therefore our legacies, are hinged. Philanthrocapitalism is a philanthropic approach that mirrors how business is done in the for-profit world. The Berkeley Economic Review defines it as “different from traditional forms of philanthropy because it involves a capitalist, market-based, for-profit approach to solving the world’s biggest and most pressing issues.” It also leads to the establishing of philanthropic LLC’s, like the Chan Zuckerberg Initiative, which are rapidly replacing private foundations.

There is a complex range of strengths and challenges to this methodology, but one of its challenges is that in order to receive more money, you must provide more output. More shows. More metrics. Rather than encourage theatres to work toward deeper and more sustainable work, this system pushes for measurable content. But anybody who loves the arts knows we often work in a subtler space: that of the immeasurable, and the profound.

Fundraising is cyclical, much like the nature of cultural continuation in theatre. In cycles, there is an invitation for intention, iteration, and evolution. This piece explores the funding cycle’s impact on, and the ingenuity of, the work of three theatres: Silk Road Rising, Pangea World Theater, and Penumbra Theatre.

My experience as a leader includes having been an executive leader of a storefront theatre in Chicago through the height of the pandemic, co-founding a SWANASA (South West Asian, North African, South Asian) community organization, and currently serving on the board for the League of Chicago Theatres. These experiences provide me with insight into fundraising at its most liberating and its most oppressive. I am dedicated to healing this relationship, and envisioning what we could accomplish if funders supported us without restriction.

Unrestricted support is funder-to-fundraiser jargon for “you can use this money however the hell you see fit—we trust you.” What is more healing than trust? I seek this healing and this trust for all theatres, but specifically those built from a place of community. My community has shown unrestricted support when it comes to investing in artists like myself. Upon reflection, it is BITOC theatres like Silk Road Rising in Chicago that have gifted me with unrestricted support and investment as a person, artist, and community leader.

In fact, Silk Road was the first professional theatre that hired me. I was still in college. At the time, I was cast in a show at my university, and there were some schedule conflicts between the two opportunities. My professor encouraged me to drop the Silk Road show, saying that I would be on heavy rotation with them once I graduated because of my talent and identity, and that I didn’t have to start right away. But I didn’t drop the show, and I am so glad I kept that commitment, as my professor was right about one thing: They continued to invest in me as an artist well beyond that first show. 

As co-founder and co-executive artistic director Malik Gillani says of the company, “We aren’t just driving our own progress, we’re playing a crucial role in the transformation of the theatre sector to one that actually looks like America. THRIVE! strengthens the ecosystems that make such transformation possible.” Gillani also spoke about Silk Road Rising’s upcoming partnership with Filpina American playwright Karissa Murrell Myers, in partnership with Northeastern Illinois University. Theatres such as these are transforming the sector (and the world) by investing in the next generation of BIPOC theatre artists both in and out of their diasporas, thus creating a legacy.

R. Vincent Moniz Jr. in “Artifact Traffic” at Intemedia Arts in Minneapolis, part of Pangea World Theater’s Indigenous Voices series.

The cyclical nature of funding, when ethically applied, as with the RECOGNIZE! grants, can be leveraged to the benefit of cultural continuation and community work, through creating a culture of intention and deepening the work already happening. Pangea World Theater creates legacy by channeling funding toward programs such as the Indigenous Voices Series, which “was created in 2001 to highlight the diverse, contemporary work of Indigenous theatre and performance artists. Indigenous Voices continues to bring local, national and international Indigenous artists to audiences in the Twin Cities.”

Pangea has a stunning digital archive of 18 years of this work. Their innovative arts programming also includes Race North and South on the Great River, a creative forum for community members and youth from many diverse communities to dialogue about issues of race and its intersections. These approaches are the kinds of imaginative programming that can further blossom with unrestricted funding like that of the RECOGNIZE grants.

“The THRIVE! grant has afforded us the opportunity to explore new modes of breaking artistic silos and expanding our definition of theatremaking,” said Jamil Khoury, co-founder and co-executive artistic director of Silk Road Rising, which plans to rebrand as Silk Road Cultural Center in early 2024. “This shift will enable us to continue producing live and digital theatre, but also to engage with visual art, literature, music, dance, comedy, food, etc. We’re looking at the connectivity and interplay within and between artistic mediums. It’s how we continue to serve our Silk Road communities and honor our commitment to expanding the American story.”

Like Silk Road, Penumbra continues to build a legacy of healing and cultural continuance. They, too, are “evolving into [their] next life cycle: a performing arts campus and center for racial healing that nurtures Black artists, advances equity, and facilitates wellness for individuals and community,” according to the theatre’s website. “Our space will center the Black experience, learn from and support people of color who are not Black, and welcome white individuals interested in building resiliency and competency for racial equity and racial healing work. Penumbra will stand in solidarity with and support indigenous communities upon whose land the work is located.”

Penumbra Theatre’s contributions to cultural continuation are not only seen in the award-winning work on their stages, which is “artistically excellent, thought-provoking, relevant and…illuminates the human condition through the prism of the African American experience.” It is also beautifully symbolized in the transfer of this culturally specific and necessary theatre from a father to a daughter, as Sarah Bellamy, president of Penumbra Theatre, continues the artistic legacy of her father, Lou Bellamy, Penumbra’s founder and current co-artistic director.

Silk Road Rising co-artistic directors Jamil Khoury and Malik Gillani.

Often these brilliant initiatives are made possible with little more than a shoestring budget and a big dream. As a storefront theatre leader, this is how I got most things done. However, these big ideas can really flourish when funded by a philanthropic system that trusts and invests in the implicit knowledge held by BIPOC leaders who are in constant contact with their communities. It is this deep community expertise from which Penumbra’s newest program, PRIDE (Positive Racial Identity Development and Empowerment), blossoms.

As Khemara Pettus, Penumbra’s development director explained, PRIDE “will combine arts, equity, and wellness for the benefit of youth. The PRIDE program is…designed to support children of all races as they learn about concepts and experiences of race, identity, and social justice. Primary beneficiaries are youth ages 2-22 and their families. PRIDE is unique in that it supports a child’s journey through adolescence with racial and cultural pride, a nuanced knowledge of history, and practical skills to build resiliency, self-esteem, and a sense of community and belonging.”

PRIDE secured $1 million in funding from the U.S. Department of Education through the FY 2023 congressional bill—a level of government support that shows trust in BITOCs to venture into new territory. When BITOC are empowered to follow their impulses, take risks, and center the needs of the communities they work with, magical things can happen.

Silk Road co-artistic director Malik Gilliani says that support from THRIVE! has enabled his work on a new piece called The Art of Aphasia. Aphasia is a neurological condition that can affect the parts of the brain associated with language. The new piece, said Gillani, “showcases my ongoing recovery from a post-stroke language disorder, aphasia, and the interconnectedness of art and neuroplasticity. With the help of THRIVE!, we’re building a new genre of theatre called Aphasic Theatre that centers the experiences of people like me and draws inspiration from Theatre for the Deaf and Theatre for the Blind.” He added, “It’s important to note that as a brown, South Asian, Muslim, immigrant, queer, disabled person, my story is a Silk Road story, and it expands the representation of Pan-Asian, North African, and Muslim peoples.” 

If funders continue to move in this direction, looking to theatres like Silk Road, Pangea, and Penumbra as our guides, we have a chance to heal a struggling financial system while also healing our communities and ourselves. Unrestricted funding can help ensure that these theatres and the legacies they hold will persist, and create a beautiful cycle of cultural continuance and living ancestors. Unrestricted investment invites Black, Indigenous, or Theatres of Color (BITOC) and their leaders to be similarly unrestricted in their imagination, in their paying it forward, and in their investment in their communities.

Tina El Gamal (she/they) is a Chicago-based theatre artist, educator, and administrator. She was featured on New City Stage’s Players 50, 2022.

Support American Theatre: a just and thriving theatre ecology begins with information for all. Please join us in this mission by making a donation to our publisher, Theatre Communications Group. When you support American Theatre magazine and TCG, you support a long legacy of quality nonprofit arts journalism. Click here to make your fully tax-deductible donation today!

Here’s How To Celebrate Native American Heritage Month Around D.C.

Here’s How To Celebrate Native American Heritage Month Around D.C.

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Native American artists reflect on their roots and ancestral lands in the Southeast

Native American artists reflect on their roots and ancestral lands in the Southeast

More than 60 works of art by 26 contemporary Native American artists and designers are being exhibited in a new show at Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport. This Land Calls Us Home: Indigenous Relationships with Southeastern Homelands opened November 6 and will be in the gallery space of the T North Concourse for a year. It’s part of the airport’s art program.

The works express the visions of Cherokee, Mvskoke and other Native Americans living in, near and beyond the Southeastern homelands and reflect the relationships that Native Americans today have with their regional roots.

Most of the artists are descendants of the ancient mound builders and Cherokee peoples who are indigenous to the region. Five relationship categories are included in the show: community and autonomy; communication and expression; heritage and legacies; identity and diversity; nature and nurture.

Among the many artists included in the exhibit are Luzene Hill, Johnnie Lee Diacon and Tony A. Tiger.

Hill, an Atlanta native, is an enrolled member of the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians and now lives and works in the Qualla Boundary in Cherokee, North Carolina. A multidisciplinary artist, she is best known for immersive installations and performance collaborations. She has exhibited throughout the United States, Canada, Russia, Japan and the United Kingdom. Some of her work was included in the Atlanta Contemporary group show Returns: Cherokee Diaspora and Art in 2022.

Native American
Diacon’s “WWI Choctaw Code Talkers” honors the Choctaw men who pioneered the use of Native American languages as military code during World War I.

Diacon is Mvskoke, Thlopthlocco Tribal Town (Raprakko Etvlwa), and Deer Clan (Ecovlke) and has nearly 40 years of experience in fine art. He lives on the Mvskoke Reservation in Tulsa, Oklahoma, and works in many different mediums, including acrylic, oil and watercolors. He has done 3D assemblages, beadwork and sequential art for graphic novels such as Tales of the Mighty Code Talkers Volume One and Chilocco Indian School: A Generational Story.

Tiger is an enrolled member of the Sac and Fox Nation of Oklahoma, with Mvskoke Creek and Seminole lineage. He is an artist, independent indigenous art curator and art educator. His exhibitions projects include Speak: Speak While You Can (focused on the revitalization of indigenous languages in Oklahoma) on view at the Sam Noble Museum of Natural History, University of Oklahoma, in August 2024, and Return From Exile: Contemporary Southeastern Indian Art, with colleague Bobby C. Martin. His art is included in the Ford Jones Jr. Museum of Art, University of Oklahoma; the Museum of Contemporary Native Art Santa Fe, New Mexico; and the First American Museum of Art, Oklahoma City.

The This Land Calls Us Home project was led by the Rev. Chebon Kernell, a Seminole/Mvskoke scholar and educator who serves as executive director of the Native American Comprehensive Plan of The United Methodist Church. He developed the exhibit with a team of museum professionals and scholars. The organization will launch an accompanying website later this year. The Global Ministries of the church is presenting the exhibit in collaboration with the church’s Native American Comprehensive Plan, which is designed to amplify the voices of indigenous peoples.

2023 Best Modern Gifts Under $50

2023 Best Modern Gifts Under $50

Our under $50 gift guide is the Goldilocks version of the gift giving – that is, not too small yet not too expensive. It’s just right for surprising the design lover in your life with a gift that’s unique and unexpected, like an immortalized four-leaf clover or a mouth-blown vase the size of an egg. Below, we rounded up 10 gift ideas that won’t break the bank but will most likely have your recipient break out into a smile.

We will always suggest a great design-centric coffee table book. It is one of those items that is always fail-safe for a design aficionado because it tends to be a welcomed addition to a growing collection. Just make sure its new owner doesn’t already have a copy! Glass Houses is stunning just by its beach glass-hued cover but open it up and you’ll learn more about iconic glass houses around the world, like Mies van der Rohe’s Farnsworth House and Pierre Koenig’s Case Study #22 House. Our personal favorite is a more recent build, the Glass-Block Micro House designed by Room+ Design & Build in Vietnam.

four squiggle coasters

Something fun and unexpected but useful and sustainable, these coasters are made of repurposed deadstock yarn to keep those pesky water rings off anyone’s coffee table.

advent puzzle set of Andy Warhol art

There is someone in your life who enjoys puzzles as much as they love art, and we bet you can name them right now. To bring them joy for 12 days straight, this advent calendar consists of 12 puzzles, each one containing 80 pieces, featuring Warhol’s Christmas paintings.

three striped pouches

We’re always a fan of Baggu’s reusable bags and pouches because they’re always designing new patterns and colorways. These are great for compartmentalizing everything that goes inside a big tote bag. Plus, everyone loves a good stripe and these are no exception.

card game box with cards sprawled out

Gift this card game to your significant other or the friend who always hosts game night. Designed to foster meaningful conversations, the game consists of 140 questions across four categories – relationships, dating, sex, and real talk – that will help players get to know each other better. Yes, it will be “hella awkward” at times, but the best relationships push past that vulnerability in order to deepen the connection.

rainbow stripe tumbler next to bowls of ice cream

Your giftee might not expect this beautiful rainbow drinking glass but a little context might help them understand just how special it is. Each piece is mouth-blown using the Murano Filigrana technique from the 16th century, which is how the stripe pattern is made. Completely artisan-made, each tumbler is slightly different from another, making them a one-of-a-kind piece.

blue tote bag next to bag of coffee beans outdoors

Do you know someone who can gets excited about third-wave coffee? This coffee set from Los Angeles-based Canyon Coffee will definitely excite them then. Consisting of a bag of whole or ground coffee beans and a brilliant blue tote bag, it’ll delight their eyes and their tastebuds.

three tiny vases on terracotta background

These days everyone has a shelf with storied objects and this set is a unique addition to that. Hand-blown in Santa Fe, New Mexico with glass produced in The Czech Republic, each tiny vase is about the size of an egg to artfully house a single sprig or flower bud.

two four leaf clover paperweights next to a bag holding peonies

This paperweight reminds us of those childhood days combing through a patch of clovers to find that elusive four-leafed stem. Even now, there’s still something magical about finding one that we’re sure this gift pick will bring a smile to the recipient’s face.

a pair of ombre socks

It’s true, fancy socks are a thing. Comme Si makes the modern day version of the classic trouser socks and this particular set, with its ombre pattern, makes the daily act of getting dressed a bit more luxurious.

Follow along so you don’t miss any of our 2023 Gift Guides this year!

This post contains affiliate links, so if you make a purchase from an affiliate link, we earn a commission. Thanks for supporting Design Milk!

As the Senior Contributing Editor, Vy Yang is obsessed with discovering ways to live well + with intention through design. She’s probably sharing what she finds over on Instagram stories. You can also find her at vytranyang.com.

Morning Owl Fine Art Photography

Morning Owl Fine Art Photography

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CBS 8 is celebrating veteran-owned businesses leading up to Veteran’s day. Morning Owl Fine Art Photography captures all kinds of memories for military families.

In Meticulous Paper Portraits, Yulia Brodskaya Coaxes Visions of a Compassionate Future

In Meticulous Paper Portraits, Yulia Brodskaya Coaxes Visions of a Compassionate Future

“Northern Lines.” All images © Yulia Brodskaya, shared with permission

For millennia, cultures across the globe have venerated mother goddesses who embody maternal roles and symbolize fertility and cosmological creation. For the Inuit, Nerrivik is known as the sea mother and provider, and another deity associated with the sky, Pinga, watches over the hunt. In the Odinani tradition of the Igbo people in southeast Nigeria, Ala presides over the underworld and observes morality, fertility, and creativity. And in Greek mythology, Gaia is poetically portrayed as the personification of the Earth and the ancestor of all living beings.

For artist Yulia Brodskaya, the unequivocal power of Mother Earth encompasses a vibrant series of quilled paper portraits (previously) that celebrate cultural diversity and women around the world. She says:

I create from the place of honoring history and the past—drawing lots of inspiration from various cultures existing on the planet, but at the same time, making a conscious choice to bring forward a new vision of the future: a future when we, as a collective, have healed our past, released the pain, and integrated all the lessons that brought us all here to this moment in time: unified humanity—people of Gaia.

In her new pieces, Brodskaya continues to explore resilience and hope through dreamlike portraiture. She meticulously cuts, creases, and curls thin pieces of paper to build up a relief one strip at a time, adding mystical elements like swirls and geometric shapes. In “Envisage,” a human profile merges with that of a horse, while in “Mother Energy,” leaping dolphins reflect the strength, connection, and joy of motherhood.

Brodskaya portrays a future she desires, one of brightness, openness, and compassion. She says that “this is a personal exploration of how this new reality would feel like. How would it feel to interact with a human being from this version of the future?”

Find more on the artist’s website, and follow on Instagram and TikTok, where she often shares insights into her process.Yulia

 

A quilled paper portrait of a Black woman holding her baby in a spiraling composition with a background of dolphins.

“Mother Energy”

Detail of quilled paper.

Detail of “Mother Energy”

A profile portrait of an Africa figure wearing beaded accessories, standing in front of a horse.

“Envisage”

Detail of quilled paper.

Detail of “Envisage”

A quilled paper portrait of an Indigenous American woman with geometric symbols and feathers.

“Light as a Feather”

Detail of quilled paper layers.

Detail of “Light as a Feather”

Detail of a portrait focused on the eyes, showing quilled paper pieces.

Detail of “Light as a Feather”

A quilled paper portrait of a woman looking straight at the viewer with mystical geometry merged with her skin and hair.

“Starseed”

Detail of paper quilling on a portrait.

Detail of “Starseed”

Do stories and artists like this matter to you? Become a Colossal Member today and support independent arts publishing for as little as $5 per month. The article In Meticulous Paper Portraits, Yulia Brodskaya Coaxes Visions of a Compassionate Future appeared first on Colossal.

The New Temptingly Affordable Apple Pencil Adds USB-C Charging

The New Temptingly Affordable Apple Pencil Adds USB-C Charging

The original Apple Pencil model was an impressive extension of the Apple iPad experience, giving artists and designers a responsive tool that evoked the satisfying tactile experience of a real writing instrument or brush equipped with pixel perfect precision. Unsurprisingly it became very popular amongst the creative set. But like many first adopters, we found the Lightning connector charging cumbersome, if not a bit awkward when plugged into the iPad while recharging, a setup marring an otherwise elegant design. Like many Apple designs, the Apple Pencil went onto undergo iterative improvements, culminating in the magnetic $129 2nd generation stylus with wireless pairing and charging. And now Apple’s third rendition, the Apple Pencil USB-C, seems to hit a sweet spot: an iPad peripheral that exceeds its entry-level $79 price tag.

Noting the “ultimate Apple Pencil experience” of the 2nd generation Apple Pencil requires a $129 entry fee, Apple recognized the peripheral’s price might kept many users from complementing their new iPad, iPad Air, iPad mini, or 11-inch or 12.9-inch iPad Pro model with their stylus. Thus, this 3rd generation USB-C Apple Pencil is priced at a more welcoming $79.

Like its 2nd generation predecessor, the new Apple Pencil also attaches magnetically to the iPad, but this time only for storage, sacrificing the ability to recharge the device wirelessly. Instead, the matte finish 3rd gen Apple Pencil powers up via USB-C charging, with its port revealed when sliding back the Apple logo adorned cap. It’s a timely addition noting Apple’s migration away from Lightning and including the USB-C port with their latest and greatest iPhone 15 models, moving us ever closer to the single port + cable lifestyle.

Apple Pencil USB-C set to the left of iPad mini with incoming FaceTime call windows over a Fractal Dimensions Assignment. Young man in a cap and denim top is in FaceTime window in the lower right hand corner of the landscape mode screen.

The new $79 Apple Pencil also subtracts pressure sensitivity and the nifty double-tap feature allowing tool switching, but it does share tilt sensitivity, low latency, and hover to preview when used with the iPad Pro like its more pro-centric model. For $79 the new Apple Pencil USB-C seems much more of a no-brainer “at time of purchase” add-on for creatives buying an iPad, less of an impulse buy and more of a considered investment when considering the iPad workflow.

The new $79 USB-C equipped Apple Pencil joins the $129 2nd generation Apple Pencil (with wireless pairing and charging, pressure sensitivity) and the $99 1st generation Apple Pencil (with Lightning charging).

The new model is compatible with the 10th-gen iPad, first to fourth generation 11-inch iPad Pro, third to sixth generation 12.9-inch iPad Pro, fourth to fifth generation iPad Air, and the sixth generation iPad Mini. The Apple Pencil USB-C is available online for $79 at Apple.com and in-store.

Gregory Han is a Senior Editor at Design Milk. A Los Angeles native with a profound love and curiosity for design, hiking, tide pools, and road trips, a selection of his adventures and musings can be found at gregoryhan.com.

Mayan Toledano’s vibrant photographs of queer life in Mexico City

Mayan Toledano’s vibrant photographs of queer life in Mexico City


CNN
 — 

On the afternoon photographer Mayan Toledano snapped a playful bedroom portrait of her friends in Mexico City — an image that would eventually become the cover of her first book — one member of the group, Karla, had gotten into an argument with her boyfriend.

Toledano, who is primarily based in New York, found a welcoming second home in Mexico City in 2018 through a circle of queer and trans creatives that expanded with each visit.

She had brought her camera along as Karla and friends glammed up for a day out, wearing strappy bikinis, shimmering halter tops and lucite platform heels. Following their fight, Karla’s boyfriend stormed out; unbothered, Karla left the group too — and returned with a bottle of Jose Cuervo. Toledano snapped away as she poured a stream of tequila into her own mouth, a crescent moon tattoo on one of her shoulders, and the circle-cross symbol for ‘female,’ modified with two devil horns, on the other.

Jovana, Sheila, Karla and Andrea, 2019

“The getting-ready part is sometimes the party,” Toledano explained in a phone interview. “Everyone was doing their makeup and drinking and laughing and doing each other’s hair.” They never made it out, she added. Instead, more friends came to them.

Comprising hundreds of vibrant photos of her friends and acquaintances, Toledano titled her book “No Mames,” which translates literally to “Don’t Suck” but is used as a catch-all phrase in Mexico roughly equivalent to “No f***king way.” It was a saying she and her friends often exclaimed as they spent time together and made photographs, and on the day of Karla’s argument with her boyfriend, they began to chant it together in unison.

Maria Mariposa Face by Karla, 2019
Uma and Ada, Wearing Sentimiento by Maria Isas, Polanco, 2022

As much as Toledano’s body of work is about the richness of Mexico City’s LGBTQ community, it’s also a snapshot of her own experiences, she explained. “It’s my life that I lived here… and my shared time with all these people,” she said.

“There’s a type of ease and warmth to this place, and people that drew me in right away. So I just kept coming back.”

Making family

Across her photography, Toledano takes effortlessly intimate portraits, from a separate daydream-like series of young couples in love to commissioned shoots for Nike and W magazine with celebrities including Bella Hadid and Paris Hilton.

In Mexico City, Toledano’s images became a mix of both candid and staged moments. Some, like a close-up of ethereal butterfly makeup on her friend Maria, are meant to evoke fantasy; other photographs are raw and tender. In one group portrait, a trans woman named Aine, who runs a refuge for LGBTQ people in her home need on the outskirts of the city, poses in her home with two close companions and a framed portrait of her late trans mother, Zury.

Greta, Aine, Mar and Zury on the Wall at Magia Ilegal, Ixtapaluca

“That was a moment of stillness. Later, we go out, they drink, they sell clothes on the street; there’s a lot of movement and performance with them,” Toledano recalled of the day. “This is a moment of love, and a moment of connection — of making a family and having a chosen family.”

One person who appears again and again in “No Mames” is Havi, one of Toledano’s first friends in the city, who also contributed the opening text for the book.

In some portraits, Havi is posed, in a pink mini dress or ethereal, glittering gemstone makeup, the tattoo “Te quiero,” or “I love you,” scrawled underneath her eye. Other images are stripped back: Havi held by her boyfriend in a softly lit bedroom, or nude and curled up in the bath. For the latter image, Toledano photographed her two weeks after she underwent breast augmentation surgery as part of her gender transition, her chest tattoos bisected by the fresh red scarring, her body cradled by the water.

“There’s something so calm about this photo — it’s not about the beauty, it’s about the feeling and her transformation in a very fulfilling moment for her,” Toledano said.

Havi at Home, 2019

An American friend of Havi’s had helped organize crowdfunding for the surgery, according to Toledano. She recalled a conversation she had at the time with Havi about the term “gender-affirming care,” which the friend had used in the campaign but was unfamiliar to Havi.

“She (Havi) understood this is a term to affirm yourself by society, and by how people look at you,” Toledano said. “Havi is a really strong and confident person, she always was. And she said to me, ‘I never needed this confirmation, I always felt like a woman… It’s funny that this is what this surgery is being referred to, as something we need by society and not the other way around.’”

Presence and ease

In Havi’s opening text, she addresses Toledano’s thoughtful approach to her work, a process in which the photographer consciously avoids centering herself as the artist or chronicler in the story of her subjects’ lives.

“Protagonism and genius as we understand it from a white male gaze is absent, but the image is full of a personal approach where everyone involved is sharing time,” Havi writes. “You can’t see her, but she’s there, sometimes sitting on the mountain of clothes, other (times) getting her feet wet after filling the tub with water. She’s in the colors, in the light that fills the walls, in the subtle smile on my face.”

Seb and Sebastian, 2022

Toledano says that rather than steer the direction of a scene, she stayed open to whatever unfolded in front of her camera.

“You can know someone for five years and still meet them for the first time,” Toledano said of her perspective. “I like the spontaneity and the opportunity that the moment offers. So it’s the connection between us; it’s the way I look at them, it’s the way they look at me, it’s the way they look at themselves, and who they arrive as that day.”

Ultimately, she wants to show the joy and deep love shared within Mexico City’s queer community. Many images of LGBTQ life more broadly have depicted “struggle and resistance,” she said. And while that is still very much part of their lives, she added, “I think this way of practicing art and joy… supporting one another is also a way of resistance.”

No Mames” is available from Damiani Books.

How Cecil Beaton Became the Royal Family’s Favorite Photographer

How Cecil Beaton Became the Royal Family’s Favorite Photographer

Every item on this page was chosen by a Town & Country editor. We may earn commission on some of the items you choose to buy.

cecil beaton royal family
© Cecil Beaton / Victoria and Albert Museum, London

“This photo of Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, is the very first sitting Beaton had with a member of the reigning royal family. It was taken in July 1939, a few months before the war, and was done to celebrate the Queen’s white wardrobe, which was designed for a state visit to Paris a year earlier. Her mother had died five days before this tour, but and the visit was an important diplomatic visit they couldn’t cancel despite being in mourning. She couldn’t wear black, so Norman Hartnell designed this wardrobe of white crinoline gowns that became a sensation and set London up as a fashion rival to Paris. Beaton arrived for the sitting and was told he had 20 minutes with her, but three and a half hours later they were still going and having a fabulous time. He invested the royal image with a real magic and romance.”

cecil beaton royal family photos
© Cecil Beaton / Victoria and Albert Museum, London

“This is Princess Margaret in front of a tapestry at Buckingham Palace. This was taken in 1951 to mark her 21st birthday. It was her second independent sitting with Beaton and was designed to showcase her as a young woman and rebrand her after the childhood images during the war. It shows her as incredibly glamorous and stylish; during the fitting she wore three different gowns, including this one designed for her by Christian Dior. It also balances that idea of tradition and modernity. Margaret symbolizes change and progress to ensure the monarchy remains relevant.”

cecil beaton royal family photos
© Cecil Beaton / Victoria and Albert Museum, London

“This is Princess Marie Louise of Schleswig-Holstein, one of the granddaughters of Queen Victoria. She’s a real connection to a bygone era and is making this priestly gesticulation. It’s an off-the-cuff snap that Beaton didn’t show to her because he was worried she’d find it undignified, but he published later. She’s considered quite eccentric, but he’s completely enchanted by her. The image feels very contemporary for the moment it was taken, in the year of the Queen’s coronation, and there’s something spectacular about a woman who connects to the Victorian age in an incredibly modern, striking picture.”

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cecil beaton royal family photos
© Cecil Beaton / Victoria and Albert Museum, London

“This was a photo marking the birth of Prince Andrew in 1960. It’s an interesting moment because it’s when Beaton is radically changing his approach to royal photography. At that moment, there was a political and cultural shift in attitudes toward monarchy and in the way they needed to present themselves. In terms of their branding, there’s a desire to welcome in the public and show themselves as a normal family. Beaton’s style is forced to adapt along with that, and you can see other photographers inching in on his turf at this point. The Queen has started using him less, but it’s notable that she still wants him to photograph the birth of her child. He was desperately trying to get the family to relax, and in his recollections of this sitting he struggled; he was cracking jokes and trying as hard as he could to make them relax. He’s done away with elaborate, Baroque background for a radical offering showing the new face of the monarchy.”

cecil beaton royal family photos
© Cecil Beaton / Victoria and Albert Museum, London

“This is one of the later photographs, taken at the end of October in 1968. This photograph was initiated by Beaton, who by this point felt comfortable suggesting commissions. He was about to open a seminal exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery, the first time a photographer and a living artist was shown, and he wanted material of notable names. What’s lovely about this photograph is that the Royal Family then decided to use it to mark the official engagement in public life of Prince Charles, who was 20 years old here. Beaton was quite disappointed with his performance. He was unwell at the time and there was dreadful weather, so he ended up recycling compositions he’d used in a sitting from several weeks earlier with the Queen. But the result is that you have this series of photographs of monarch and heir that reinforce a sense of stability of the royal line; here they are photographed in a similar guise. Beaton never got on with Prince Philip very well, but Charles warmed to him and you can see that.”

Headshot of Adam Rathe

Deputy Features Director

Adam Rathe is Town & Country‘s Deputy Features Director, covering arts and culture and a range of other subjects. 

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