Elizabeth Goodspeed on Juergen Teller and how we understand “flawed” images

Elizabeth Goodspeed on Juergen Teller and how we understand “flawed” images

Within this context, Teller’s photographs are an obvious provocation. They humanise celebrities by casting them into unfiltered anti-glamour, while still allowing us to judge them by the same extreme beauty standards of a retouched world (it’s no surprise that a meme has emerged calling Teller’s portraiture the true “face card test”). They’re the Instagram photo dump gone commercial – a seemingly haphazard array of images embodying a kind of performed indifference, or maybe an indifference to performance. The concurrent return of faux paparazzi photos by brands from Balenciaga to Bottega Veneta taps into a similar zeitgeist, mimicking authenticity and spontaneity within carefully staged campaigns.

The discourse that reliably arises from Teller’s work likely comes down to a black box of intention. Like the fable of the Emperor’s New Clothes, we all know there’s a joke being played – but on who? Is it on the celebrity subjects, compelled into the realm of the ridiculous? Teller himself does describe his process as one of force, saying that for his W shoot, “I will kidnap the actor or actress and go to an undisclosed location, where we will take pictures for a few hours without any editor, publicist or hair and makeup artist on set.” Or is it on us, the audience, who willingly engage and amplify these real and unreal images?

The raw, unpolished nature of Teller’s photographs is often met with the same refrain: “I could do that.” In fact, that’s always been the point of them. While not without intentionality, Teller’s seemingly informal style is in fact just that: informal. Riz Ahmed, photographed leaning against Teller’s favourite tree in the 2021 issue of W, described the shoot as “the fastest of my life. 20 seconds, two clicks.” The technical barriers to creating images like this are low; no sophisticated equipment or advanced skills are required. Like Jackson Pollock’s abstract expressionism, which broke free from the burdens of realism, Teller’s photography liberates itself from the norms of high-end, polished photography – and liberates us in the process as well. Artistry doesn’t necessarily lie in technical complexity or adherence to conventional standards of beauty. Instead, it lies in the ability to convey a message, evoke emotion or challenge perceptions. Teller’s work does precisely this by presenting celebrities and fashion icons in an unvarnished, almost anti-glamourous light, and selling it back to us at a premium.

Monkey Hugs Photographer After Being Reunited in Heartwarming Video

Monkey Hugs Photographer After Being Reunited in Heartwarming Video
Mikah Spider Monkey
Casey Cooper receives a hug from Mikah the spider monkey.

A photographer has shared the sweet moment Mikah the spider monkey gave him a hug after the pair had not seen each other in two years.

Casey Cooper, a dedicated nature and conservation photographer, shared Mikah’s story in a viral video posted to TikTok yesterday. Cooper explains that the spider monkey once lived in a tiny cage in a tiny apartment with no other monkeys to interact with.

@cooperlost Mikah the spider monkey once lived in a tiny cage inside a tiny apartment by herself with no other monkeys to interact with. She was in jail. 4 years ago she was rescued by a wildlife sanctuary in bolivia. She spent 2 years there learning how to socialize with other animals and fend for herself in the wild. Fastforward to today, shes wild, free and pregnant and gets to be a MOTHER SOON! Not all sanctuary stories are succesful but when they are, we remember why we do the things we do for each creature that gets a second chance at a wild life. #theamazon #spidermonkeysoftiktok #keepthemwild #wildlifesanctuary #wildliferehab #wildliferescue ♬ Tishomingo – Zach Bryan

Mikah was someone’s pet, presumably in Bolvia which is where a wildlife sanctuary rescued her four years ago. That’s where Cooper first met Mikah and she was being socialized with the other monkey as she learned how to fend for herself in the wild.

“The first day I arrived at the sanctuary, Mikah was being introduced to the jungle. She was on a leash at the time, that’s how you start to habituate them to the troupe,” Cooper tells the Miami Herald.

“Mikah was on the leash right next to the location of where I was going to be staying, and she walked up to me and kinda looked at me and hopped up and gave me a big neck hug, pretty similar to the one you see in the video.”

Mikah’s assimilation was successful, the conservationists had to ensure that she didn’t “get bullied or killed by the other monkeys.” This was partly achieved by placing Mikah in a cage in the jungle to keep her safe while she learned how to interact with the other monkeys.

Mikah is now out of the cage and cavorting with the other monkeys — she’s pregnant.

“She seems to have so much gratitude for the humans who rescued her,” Coopers tells the Herald.

“Seeing her felt like seeing a childhood friend. It’s an emotional feeling.

“You have this feeling of happiness that this animal we did all this work for is happy and comfortable and living a wild life.

“There’s always so much disaster and sadness when it comes to these animal stories, so when you have a victory like that, you really just want to celebrate it.”

Cooper previously featured on PetaPixel after he was filmed taking photos of a cheetah that walked over to him for a head rub during the shoot.

More of Cooper’s work can be found on his website, Instagram, and TikTok.


Image credits: All photos by Casey Cooper.

A Passion for Fashion

A Passion for Fashion

A professional photographer has documented news events and political campaigns, but she has a secret enthusiasm for the runways of the street

When I travel, people are my nature. What excites me about travel is not the mountains, rivers, plains, trees or sunsets, no matter how majestic. What I love is connecting with people, observing people, documenting people and celebrating the wonderful diversity I see. It helps me appreciate the common threads that unite us.

A photo collage of people wearing fashionable outfits. Next Avenue, fashion, photography
“I prefer the museum of the streets, where people present themselves in their inimical, individual styles, passing by each other unawares but creating a visual feast that catches my eye.”  |  Credit: © Iris Schneider Photography

I have always loved fashion. To me, it’s not only about the clothes although that is certainly part of it, but it’s about the way people wear, manipulate, update, adapt, downgrade and tailor clothes to suit themselves or another individual.

Clothing has a history, and I’ve always loved looking at clothes through that prism.

It’s about the way clothing makes you feel, and how that feeling radiates out into the world. Clothing has a history, and I’ve always loved looking at clothes through that prism. Museums are favorite places to see clothing in the context of history and appreciate the timeline and how fashion has evolved.

Museums of Masters

I have visited Yves St. Laurent’s atelier in Paris and was awestruck by his patterns and hat forms. I’ve visited the Dior Museum and looked at decades of frothy designs that made me drool with envy and long for a dressing room. And I’ve been to the Anchorage Museum with its cases of ceremonial robes and coats made of fur and guts, enhanced with elaborate stitching and beading and evoking decades of time-honored rituals.

But I prefer the museum of the streets, where people present themselves in their inimical, individual styles, passing by each other unawares but creating a visual feast that catches my eye. I love to note the sense of individuality and style and capture and salute that insouciance.

Two people wearing dressed in the colors of France's flag. Next Avenue, fashion, photography
Streetstyle in front of the L’Arc de Triomphe, Wrapped, Paris.   |  Credit: © Iris Schneider Photography

Common Threads

For years as a photographer I have been documenting the way people express themselves through their clothing, and how they present themselves when they step out into the world. Seeing the individuality and creativity of humans — no matter their economic status or country of origin — is reassuring.

In such divided times it confirms that people are people, and underneath our divisions we are all the same, living with our joys and challenges and doing the best we can.

Here is a sample of some of my favorite street encounters, each of which lifts my spirits. Every interaction, even if fleeting, leaves an imprint on my memory of a place and embellishes the experience of traveling.

Dressing the Environment

I remember being in Paris during the installation of Christo’s Arc de Triomphe, Wrapped. I consider myself a proud groupie of the artist, having seen Surrounded Islands in Florida, Pont Neuf, Wrapped in Paris, The Gates in New York’s Central Park and The Umbrellas in California.

A group of people wearing matching blue vests in Paris, France. Next Avenue, fashion, photography
Christo and Jeanne-Claude ambassadors in Paris  |  Credit: © Iris Schneider Photography

The Arc de Triomphe was spectacular not only for its shimmering coat on the Arc, revealing its shape and turning the monument into a piece of sculpture, but because of the obvious pleasure it bought to the hordes who flocked there to see it, touch it and use it as backdrop. The added element was that it was the last Christo installation, conceived before he passed away in 2020 and permitted and ready to go just as Covid closed everything.

Its posthumous installation made the Arc installation even more spectacular, something that you felt viscerally was appreciated by those lucky enough to see it in person. While I loved photographing the art, the bigger thrill was documenting the people who gathered there to celebrate it.

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In Morocco, I walked through a market full of women who came down from the Rif mountains, in colorfully mismatched dresses and robes that reminded me of the cornucopia of color on Samburu women in Kenya gathered around their wells and huts. Somehow it all worked perfectly.

In Iceland, I traveled to Reykjavik in March as a birthday gift to myself in hopes of seeing the Northern Lights. Fortunately, I was able to see the lights from my airline window seat as we flew toward our destination. But while the Icelandic scenery was thrilling, I loved walking the streets of Reykjavik photographing tourists and locals.

A group of women wearing colorful patterned outfits. Next Avenue, fashion, photography
Streetstyle in Morocco  |  Credit: © Iris Schneider Photography

Iceland Is Cool

There I encountered Jakob, a lanky, hip young man working in a boutique while wearing super wide patched leather trousers; Norwegian high school visitors—Christopher, Juliann and Karl—dressed in replica Viking clothes they meticulously made themselves; and Resia, a young woman from China using the modernist Harpa concert hall as a backdrop for what could have been a photo shoot for her modeling portfolio. I usually stay behind the camera but couldn’t refuse her request for a selfie with me — even though I was severely underdressed.

Even my very familiar hometown of New York City gives me opportunities to appreciate individual style.

In Jordan, walking the streets of Amman and visiting Petra, a World Heritage Site, I again was drawn to the people: guides dressed like Johnny Depp/Keith Richards in “Pirates of the Caribbean” were ubiquitous. Leading their donkeys on aged paths, they looked more ready to walk the plank than tour the ruins.

There were young postcard vendors plying their trade. In Amman, I followed the sound of amplified music to find a raucous wedding reception at my hotel that drew me in, and I constantly sought out fashion on the streets and in the shops.

Even my very familiar hometown of New York City gives me opportunities to appreciate individual style. From workers on streetcorners in their aprons and hardhats to models sporting the latest trends, shoppers at Bergdorf’s or African queens stopping at the halal truck, the city is a rainbow of humanity.

These random meetings sustain me and allow me to celebrate the brilliance of individuals we otherwise would pass by. I’m grateful for everyone who catches my eye and becomes the subject of these very brief encounters.

Iris Schneider author bio
Iris Schneider has been a journalist and photographer since the 1970s, starting in New York City while teaching at PS 97 on the Lower East Side. She became a staff photographer at the Los Angeles Times in 1980. Her work can be seen on her website or on Instagram (@schneidereye). Read More

Relocation, relocation, relocation: London galleries adapt to market turmoil by expanding

Relocation, relocation, relocation: London galleries adapt to market turmoil by expanding

Economic and political headwinds may be buffeting the global art market, but several emerging and mid-tier galleries in London are adapting by expanding and opening bigger spaces.

Some, such as Castor Gallery, are taking a lone wolf approach. The gallery’s founder Andy Wicks is relocating from a growing hub in Fitzrovia to a Grade II listed church in Angel, north London—an area not known for its galleries. “I see Castor becoming more of a destination gallery, it’s a unique space that will be unlike anything in London in an area steeped in history,” Wicks says, noting that the market is “currently challenging” as it adjusts to a slow down in sales. “Being nimble is important,” he adds.

Holy Trinity church, which is being leased to Wicks by the diocese of London, was constructed between 1827-29 and designed by Charles Barry, who was the chief architect for the Houses of Parliament. “Creating a new gallery space in such a historic building and neighbourhood is an opportunity you don’t get every day,” Wicks says. The move sees an expansion of exhibition space spread across two purpose-built galleries and offices.

The new gallery will launch in April with a debut London solo exhibition, Firing of the Idols, by Fabian Ramírez, a Mexican, London-based artist. Works range from £2,000 to £15,000, with an altarpiece priced at £30,000. Alongside the exhibition programme, Wicks plans to host a revolving series of outdoor sculptures in the garden leading to the gallery entrance.

Relocation is not new to the dealer. Wicks first established his gallery in Deptford in 2016, upgrading to larger spaces in the south London neighbourhood several times. In 2022, he moved to the more expensive Fitzrovia, where he has shared a space with Indigo + Madder for the past 18 months (their lease is not up until May and future plans will be shared in due course).

Over the past two years galleries including Pipeline Contemporary and AM/PM have flocked to Fitzrovia, joining a burgeoning scene that includes Edel Assanti, Alice Black, Vitrine, Fold and Workplace Gallery.

Niru Ratnam, who has owned a gallery in Soho since 2020, is the latest addition to the central London location, which is conveniently close to Mayfair without the extortionate rents. “It’s become increasingly clear that gallery visitors do like clusters,” Ratnam says, adding that the move to Fitzrovia offered the chance for a coveted ground-floor gallery. The new venue also has a basement that will function as another exhibition space and viewing room, which will enable the gallery to show new artists alongside the 11 currently on its books. The new gallery opens next week with a show of paintings by Emma Cousin (£8,000-£14,000, with works on paper available for £2,000).

Ratnam acknowledges the move “may seem a bit counter-intuitive” in a market that is “definitely more challenging”. He adds: “The phrase ‘go or grow’ is an apt one—there is definitely a risk of staying still and being gradually blown over by the increased challenges in the market.” Ultimately, having a bigger space and the increased visibility that it brings allows artists to conceive more ambitious shows. As Ratnam puts it: “Institutional recognition is a key way of negotiating the lull in the market, and being able to offer a space for artists to think with that ambition makes particular sense right now.”

The dealer plans to save costs elsewhere, such as limiting the number of art fairs done per year. “Art fairs are still the best way to meet new collectors but over the course of a year they don’t make a gallery our size a huge amount of money, so they are in some ways a bit of a luxury add-on,” Ratnam says.

Once the de facto capital of London’s galleries, the East End retains some of its gallery hub status. Here Emalin, which launched at the end of 2016, opens a second gallery space this week, at the Clerk’s House, the oldest building in Shoreditch. “It is undoubtedly a more complicated economic climate than it was immediately following the pandemic, however the best way to navigate these times is to invest in laying solid foundations,” say the gallery’s founders Angelina Volk and Leopold Thun.

Nonetheless, they think the UK’s cultural scene seems to thrive in moments of economic and political strife, pointing to the Thatcher era and the rise of the subcultures of the 1980s. “We’ve never seen so many new spaces opening since we opened our own gallery,” Volk and Thun say. “It feels like the entire London cultural scene is working together at the moment to collectively push ahead through these trickier times.”