At Frieze, Photographer of Gay Life Seeks ‘a Place in the Sunshine’

At Frieze, Photographer of Gay Life Seeks ‘a Place in the Sunshine’
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Stanley Stellar has documented gay New York, on the streets and in his studio, for decades. Now he steps onto his biggest stage.

Stanley Stellar was on Canal Street one Sunday morning in 1976 when a young man with a killer body passed by. Like many New York street photographers, Stellar is curious, bordering on nosy, and he can, when necessary, be a whiz at masking flirtation as flattery to put straight guys at ease.

Stellar convinced the man to lift his T-shirt for a photo, and in return Stellar got an eyeful of chest and colorful bird tattoos, a picture Stellar later named “I Got Birds Too.”

The man’s shirt went back on and a lightbulb went off.

“I walked away from this and went, oh, this is who I am,’” Stellar, 79, said in a recent interview at his TriBeCa apartment.

That chance encounter was an awakening that helped fuel Stellar’s decades-long drive to take pictures of unapologetic, maverick gayness as much as he can fit into a day. He’s still at it, as his nearly 40,000 Instagram followers can testify.

To be clear, Stellar is gay. Spare him “queer.”

“I don’t like how gay has been marginalized and dismissed,” he said. “At this point in my life, I’m not going to go, Oh yeah, I’ve always been a queer artist.’ No.”

“I Got Birds Too,” 1976. Stellar’s work is a testament to a time and a community.via Stanley Stellar and Kapp Kapp

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Photographer Fernando Gomez Gives Us A Lesson in Saturation

Photographer Fernando Gomez Gives Us A Lesson in Saturation

If you know nothing about photographer Fernando Gomez’s work, a click into his Instagram (a modern-day artist’s portfolio) and one thing is evident: a penchant for saturation. Color abounds in inky indigos, shocking scarlets, and ostentatious oranges. Gomez, who shoots largely still life and beauty imagery for brands like Loewe, Dior, Chanel, L’Oréal, Maybelline, and more, spends what he dubs a “couple of good full days” per month meticulously arranging his feed into a rainbow step-and-repeat of his photography. Ironically, his day-to-day life is mostly void of pigment.

His Barcelona home is all white. He dresses primarily in an array of black and white monochrome. “I’m kind of an old guy in a young person’s body, so my whole thing is super minimal,” he says. He conflates this taste for muted colors with his more serious personality. “Colors are like therapy work,” he explains of his process. “Working with different colors allows me to explore different emotions in an introspective way.” Ahead, the artist walks us through his career trajectory, his approach to color, and his other hobbies, including a fondness for the outdoors and a voracious appetite for reading.

Courtesy of Fernando Gomez

Coveteur: I’d love to take you back to the early days. Who were your early icons, or the first pieces of art or photography you remember speaking to you?

“I wasn’t brought up in a family that was very art-focused, to say it bluntly. I think this photographic and artistic feeling started developing in my university days. I’m a self-taught photographer; I started in law. During law school, I had a lot of free time during the day. I started exploring while traveling through Europe with my then-girlfriend, now wife. Once you start going to the museums, exploring all these places—whether it’s Italy or France—that have a lot of history and scenery, it broadens your mind. For reference, my hometown has a really great history. It has things from 1,000 years ago. But if you grow up there, you take it for granted.

The only thing that I knew about photography when I started was that you could do weddings. In my hometown, there’s no such thing as a fashion or an art photographer. At that time, my biggest discovery was probably the work of Steven Meisel or Herb Ritts. That blew my mind. ‘Okay, so not only can you do fashion or still life, but you can be artistic about it. You can do things that are out of the box that do not have a commercial path.’ I still have a Herb Ritts book that I really, really love about his still life. It’s my go-to reference when looking for some of the really simple, but very magnetic images that make up my work.

When I went to the Louvre for the first time and discovered these impressionist painters, their use of color ignited me to do something more focused. At the beginning of my career, I didn’t know what I was doing. I was just taking photos for the sake of taking photos. And then, of course over the years, I started focusing more on this colorful world that now populates all my work.”

I know so many of these things are very subconscious. You’re probably not talking through them in your head, but what is it about color that gets you? How do you assign a palette to a project?

“I think that sometimes the photos speak to you in a way when you get to set. Maybe you have a conversation with the set designer. I’m a very collaborative guy, so I’m always open to working with our directors or set designers, or any of the people that elevate this colorful work. Also, I’m not working on a blank canvas. I’m often working with somebody who approaches me with an idea, with a project. When I’m doing something on my own, it’s about the elements I’m photographing, whether it’s flowers, cosmetics, or a person—but not in a portrait way, more in an artistic way. I’m not set in a color per se when I start.

The light of the day or some small element can dictate what I do. Sometimes, I’m set in a color when I’m shooting—let’s say, dark blues or whatever. But then, I come back to the photos a day or two afterward and say, ‘You know what? I think this is more of a pink mood.’ Also, the skin of the people that you’re shooting is important. I’ve been doing these artistic nudes with girls that are predominantly black, and I think the melanin of their skin works with some of the more saturated colors. And when I’m working with a Caucasian model, I always go with dark yellows or dark pinks. I’m a very fast shooter. I know at the third or fourth click: ‘Okay, we have it.’”

Courtesy of Fernando Gomez

What about the rest of your life? Is your life saturated, or do you live with less color?

“Not at all. I started wearing color, like, 10 years ago. I’ve always been a very black-and-white person. My house is all white. I’m kind of an old guy in a young person’s body, so my whole thing is super minimal, super black and white. I love very muted colors; my personality is more serious. But when I get to work, and I get to work with color, it’s like the rainbow opens up. My family doesn’t really understand how I can project something that’s so colorful when, in reality, I’m the opposite. That’s something that I really haven’t figured out. Sometimes, I think that the opposites, in this sense, make it work in a more interesting way.”

There’s so much conversation around the emotions that are associated with different colors. Red is a fiery, angrier color, and green is more serene. Does that cross your mind at all?

“It’s true that darks are more intense, like reds or the blues. What I’m feeling at the moment also informs the work that I’m doing, especially when I’m editing. Red is probably my most satisfying color to work with because I work a lot with cosmetics and red is very intense. It’s easy to work with because, for me, it’s very pleasing. But I am always open to experimenting. I’ll go to my website sometimes to see what I’ve been doing. Maybe if I have too much of one thing, I try to steer away and go a different direction. But sometimes the mood you’re in when you’re working spills through the final outcome.

That being said, I like to start with the primary colors—reds, blues, yellows—because from there you can get a million gradients. If I’m doing reds, I wouldn’t go to blues, but I probably will go purple. When I’m doing my Instagram, for example, which is very color-oriented, I always struggle going from red to browns, because I rarely work with browns, but I do work with yellow. That’s when I realize emotion is connected to the color for me. Once I start reviewing my archive, I notice that there’s a pattern. I’m more inclined to dark, muted colors, but very saturated. It’s something that I’m really trying to keep in mind when I’m shooting personal work, to say, ‘Okay, maybe I should shoot something dark brown.’ But then I go back to the editing room, and it’s like, ‘No, it’s not working. I should go back to the reds and purple.’ It satisfies me.”

I don’t know if you’ve heard them, but there are English expressions like ‘feeling blue,’ or ‘seeing red.’

“Yeah, I don’t associate that with my work. There’s, of course, what you said about fire being red, or intense, or this kind of passion. But, I think for me, colors are more like therapy work. Working with different colors allows me to explore different emotions but in an introspective way. I think emotions inform what I’m doing at the moment, but it has nothing to do with what I want the image to feel.”

Yes, much less literal I’m sure. I find it interesting, too, if you think about color cosmetics, it’s so much about pigment, whereas you think about skin, it’s shades of neutrals essentially. How do you approach both, whether you’re doing them together or separately?

“That’s very tricky, because clients ask me to shoot with models and still life. It’s very, very, very complicated to make them work together, because of course, I’m always more inclined to color, but as you say, skin is neutral tones. I always try to create a dialogue with the clients, because with still life, you can do whatever with a pigment, and it will look amazing because it is so saturated and so rich. And of course, when you’re shooting beauty, 99 percent of the time these days, it’s very little makeup. For me, I show them previous works that I’ve done, and say, ‘Okay, so this is what you really like from my work, but you need to know that when I was shooting this, it was in a more freestyle way without having much constraint.’ You need to be super realistic as to what the tone of the actual model is. I always try to find these little tricks, maybe it’s a play of light, so we can make them work together. At the end of the day, the cosmetic still life will be so saturated and rich that it will make the beauty shot seem very bland in comparison.”

It seems like a lot of your photos are quite stripped down. There’s not a ton going on, so I’m sure there’s a lot you want to control in the moment. Are you really only ever shooting in studios?

“Once I moved into the still life area, it changed the way that I was shooting. At the beginning of my career, I was shooting outside; Barcelona like is a full-on set. Generally, you have amazing weather, you have the beach. You can live super close to the mountains, as well. There are a million locations available to you. In my early years, I didn’t even have a studio. As I started to move more into beauty, of course, you need to control everything. You need to control the light, you need to control whatever’s happening around you.

My work started moving more inside the studio. Once I started doing still life, that was the end of the outdoor shooting. I love working with sunlight. For me, it is probably the best thing ever. Even in my studio when I have direct sunlight, I try to make the most of it. But I am comfortable working in the studio because, as you say, I can control everything. This has also given me a very safe net to know what I can accomplish in every studio, wherever in the world I’m working. That was something that I didn’t find when I was shooting with natural light because Spain’s light is very different, even from the north part to the south part.”

Courtesy of Fernando Gomez

In terms of visuals, what do you consume on a regular basis in terms of magazines, museums, people you follow on Instagram.? Obviously, it’s research, but there’s also personal interest, I’m sure. What are your favorite sources?

“I have been going through different phases. This is going to sound ancient, but I was a Tumblr kind of guy. At the beginning, I was sourcing everything from Tumblr. When Tumblr disappeared, I discovered Pinterest, and that was the end of it, because you can go down the rabbit hole, and there’s no getting out. Apart from the internet, I love to go to the cinema. Getting into a dark room, being focused on something that takes your full attention. You can’t reach your phone, and you have to just dissect everything. I was recently watching Poor Things, and I was just blown away by the photography.

These things make you look into what’s happening behind the work of art. Apart from that, I like reading, because most of the time, that’s what gives me ideas about different sets, some imaginary words or color palettes. I’m not from the school that you really have to have everything referenced, meaning that you need to work from a particular photo and evolve from that. Let’s talk about the concept, and then we can get to something more physical. Sometimes it helps me more to take a walk and free my mind. I can stop by some place and see something small that ignites some ideas or some inspiration. Walking everywhere really helps me get inspired. I live a very outdoor life.”

Favorite books and films?

“I don’t know because I read so much that I should probably keep a diary. My mother just got one for Christmas. I thought that was the most intelligent idea ever—this diary of books that you have read, and then you rate them. Also, I forget everything I read bookwise. I really like to read everything, whether it’s an essay, a novel, or nonfiction. I’m open to everything because that’s what keeps me very interested in different kinds of work. I would say the same about films. I don’t have a favorite per se that I go back to, because I’m open to different kinds of cinema, whether it’s indie or more commercial. Though I’m not a very big fan of The Avengers, for example.”

I’m shocked.

“Yes, but I’m very open to see everything, because I’m always of the idea that if you see a little bit of everything, at least you’d be able to just grab some small thing each time. I watch a lot of TV shows. Sometimes I watch something, and am like, ‘Why am I watching this?’ Whether I enjoy it or not, it’s always informative in a way to just grab some ideas for next projects and such.”

What are you reading right now?

“I’m reading a thriller because I was reading some essays, and sometimes I like to numb myself in between. I know that I’m going to get very addicted, but I also know from the moment that I start that it’s a murder, and then they’re going to solve it, and it’s going to be probably the least person you expected.

I’ve also discovered a new love for Japanese literature from Murakami, which is more commercial, but there are a million different authors that I really love reading, which is funny because I read them in English even though they’re Japanese. I think I’m more open to reading in English rather than in Spanish. I don’t know why but the English translators always get more about the feeling they’re trying to accomplish in these kinds of novels, which are very introspective and moody.”

Murakami feels colorful to me, so I get that.

“That was probably one of my first connections with Japanese culture when I was 18, 19. I haven’t even thought about Murakami as colorful, but it’s true.”

One silly question to wrap it up. How long does it take you to curate your Instagram feed? Because it’s perfect.

“It takes me a long time. I have an ESD file, which I go back to every couple of days. I upload once a day. At the beginning, my agent was like, ‘No, you should upload only two times a week.’ And I was like, ‘Impossible.’ There’s so much work to put out. I really want to feel the color grow. Sometimes I’m like, ‘I don’t really want this red to continue.’ So I start working towards pink. I would say that monthly, I spend a couple of good full days on that. It’s very therapeutic. I was just saying to my wife, sometimes I don’t even need to keep working on my Instagram because I already have a layout. But, I love going back and saying, ‘Okay, I’m going to change this photo, because I found this new one that works better.’”

He Photographs An Eagle, Then Is Shocked By What Is In Its Claws

He Photographs An Eagle, Then Is Shocked By What Is In Its Claws

Photographer Doug Gemmell experienced the serendipity of being in the right place at the right time during one of his regular wildlife shoots. What he captured, however, was far from the ordinary eagle behavior one might expect.

An Unusual Discovery Through the Lens

While tracking the movements of a juvenile bald eagle—a creature yet to sprout its iconic white head feathers—Gemmell noticed the eagle descending not upon a body of water, which is typical for its species known for fishing, but rather toward a parking lot. Curiosity piqued, Gemmell continued snapping photos, intrigued by what such an unusual descent might yield.

A Slice of the Unexpected

Upon reviewing his photographs, Gemmell was astounded to discover that clutched in the eagle’s talons was not the expected fish or small mammal, but a delicious-looking slice of pepperoni pizza. “It’s not something you see every day, that’s for sure,” commented Gemmell on the unexpected find.

This peculiar moment highlighted the adaptability of wildlife, particularly urban-dwelling animals, which sometimes forage far beyond the natural menu. While it remains unknown whether the eagle actually consumed its saucy prize, the image itself serves as a humorous and stark symbol of nature intersecting with human life.

The Hunting Techniques of Eagles

Eagles, larger than most other diurnal birds of prey except for vultures and harpy eagles, possess unique hunting capabilities. Their size and weight might not allow the agility in flight exhibited by smaller raptors like falcons, but their powerful build enables them to exploit a range of hunting strategies—evidently, sometimes extending to unexpected scavenging in parking lots.

The adaptability of eagles, as shown in Gemmell’s photograph, suggests that these majestic birds will not only continue to surprise us with their behavior but also adapt in ways we might not anticipate. This intersection of wildlife behavior and human encroachment offers a fascinating glimpse into the changing dynamics of natural habitats—a reminder of the unpredictable ways in which wildlife interacts with the spaces we consider our own.

The Fujifilm Mini 99 Is an Instant Camera Photographers Will Love

The Fujifilm Mini 99 Is an Instant Camera Photographers Will Love

Fujifilm’s New Instax Mini 99 is an Instax camera for those who love manual controls and creative effects. It’s not the sharpest Instax I’ve tested—that remains the Mini Evo—but it might be the most analog and the most capable.

The $200 price tag is well above the entry-level point-and-shoot Instax cameras, but here you get exposure and shutter control, a swatch of color effects, and even the ability to simulate light leaks, like the ones you get with those thrift store cameras collecting dust on your shelf.

Manual Power

Except for the colorful and bubbly entry-level cameras, Fujifilm’s Instax design usually tends toward a retro-camera vibe, which holds true for the Mini 99. The 99 is all-black instead of the silver and black found in the Mini 90, but otherwise bears more than a passing resemblance to the older model. Fujifilm hasn’t officially said the 99 replaces the 90, but they feel close enough to each other that I’d be surprised if the Mini 90 continues for long.

Overhead view of the front of a manual camera sitting on a pile of scattered film pictures

Photograph: Scott Gilbertson

The lens of the Mini 99 is the same as the Mini 90. It’s a 60-mm lens made of plastic. It works out to roughly the same field of view as a 35-mm lens in 35-mm format (or if you prefer, somewhere between 1x and 2x on your iPhone). The shutter is fixed at f/12.7, which means you’ll be relying on the flash in all but bright, sunny, outdoor shots. That said, unlike quite a few other Instax models, with the Mini 99 you can turn off the flash for those well-lit shots.

Perhaps the most interesting part of the Mini 99, and something new for the Instax line, are the manual focus options. The Mini 99 does not have true manual focus where you turn a dial on the lens to get precise focus. Instead there are three zones of focus: close up (0.3 to 0.6 meters), midrange (0.6 to 3 meters), and infinity (3 meters to infinity). For those not metric-savvy, that works out to 1 to 2 feet, 2 to 10 feet, and 10 feet to infinity. While that’s not as precise as a true manual focus camera, it’s more control than you typically get with Instax.

I find the manual focus to be a little inconsistent—or rather, the results were less dramatic than I expected. Keep in mind that the aperture is f/12.7, which means the plane of focus will be pretty wide, even with the focus zone controls. The Mini 99 is capable of bokeh (the name for out-of-focus regions in a photo), but only in very specific situations like a portrait, and even then you have to use the closest focus, which means your subject’s face will mostly fill the frame anyway. That said, being able to play with focus at all is a step up from most Instax cameras, where focus is fixed, and the 1-foot close focus distance of the Mini 99 is nice for macro-style shots. Unlike some Instax cameras, there is parallax correction in the viewfinder so that what you see in the frame is very close to what you get.

LifeStance Health uses photography and poetry to break mental health stigmas

LifeStance Health uses photography and poetry to break mental health stigmas
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Healthcare provider LifeStance Health has teamed up with Leica Camera on a campaign that uses photography and poetry to reduce stigmas around mental health. 

The Not One Face campaign, which started in 2021, launched its latest iteration this week with a video titled There is Not One Face to Mental Health. 

It features a slideshow of black-and-white and color photographs backed by music and a poetry reading by Hussain Manawer, a celebrated British author who has written about his mental health struggles.

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The launch coincides with Mental Health Awareness Month and comes amidst concerns about a mental health crisisamong children and young adults. 

“We really wanted to challenge certain assumptions and make it clear that mental health does not always look the same,” said Ashley Anderson, LifeStance SVP of marketing.

For the project, 13 photographers used Leica equipment to “depict how anxiety manifests in the real world through their creative lenses,” an introduction to the slideshow states.

Anderson said the brand’s creatives had talked with its agency of record, The Unquantifiable, about collaborating with another company for the campaign. They landed on the idea of working with a camera brand and reached out to Leica.

The collection features a wide array of subjects, including school children lined up on a sidewalk; a carnival featuring a “chaos” sign; a man in distress letting the ocean wash over him; and a broken, old television in the middle of a field. 

Manawer also recites the poem, “The Deep End,” which he wrote for the campaign. It opens with shots of children and the lines: 

“There’s the innocence in my youth

Where I swim, walk, stand strong

In hope my shadow never leaves me

When I’m in my darkest room

Don’t tell me this is how my future tastes

I don’t want to be your future face

Depression, how dare you attempt to attach yourself to my roots.”

Manawer “was a very natural fit to the campaign because of his own personal struggles and narrative with mental health,” Anderson said.

LifeStance, Leica and the photographers will share content on their social media feeds including links to the campaign landing page.

How Todd Hido Creates His Landscape Photographs

How Todd Hido Creates His Landscape Photographs

I recently was introduced to photographer Todd Hido in Jason Momoa’s docuseries on HBO. Momoa has a real affinity for Todd. I wish I had a fan like that; if you watch the show, you will see what I mean.

In this video, you will see Hido talking about what it took to put his latest photography book together, “The End Sends Advance Warning.” Hido’s work is shot at night and usually when it’s rainy and foggy, which creates a moody and ominous look. The homes are reminiscent of his hometown of Ohio, and being from Michigan, I can relate to all of his work. Hido says these images bring him back to his childhood. But they are shot in Northern California; he found an area near his home where the developer built homes similar to the Midwest style.

Hido says he is an artist, not a documentarian, and he suggests printing your photos. We get so stuck with our photos being digital and looking at them on screen, but when you create a physical copy of your image, it changes everything.

Hido also says that creating a photo book is the best way to get your work out into the world. Having a physical photography book in your home is a great way to immerse yourself in a physical form of photography as opposed to looking on the internet. I agree; I have many coffee table photography books, and I look through them often. They can provoke a new idea and are such a great source of inspiration.

Here comes the sun: Photography in harsh light

Here comes the sun: Photography in harsh light
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With the rapid, and welcome, return of the sun I thought this would be a good time to talk about photography in brighter and sometimes harsher light then we see in the winter.

Many photographers only shoot during the sweet light we often have in the morning and evening when the sun is low on the horizon. Many also limit themselves to only shooting when the sun is at their back. Unfortunately, this results in some missed opportunities, and I hope this column will convince you to explore a wide range of lighting conditions.

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Picking Up Pixels: Rüdiger Schlömer Designs Typefaces for Knitting

Picking Up Pixels: Rüdiger Schlömer Designs Typefaces for Knitting

All images © Rüdiger Schlömer, shared with permission

Rather than build the letter “A” or “R” through digital layers, Rüdiger Schlömer constructs the alphabet, numbers, and basic symbols stitch by stitch. The Zurich-based designer devised Typeknitting, a project that interlocks two distinctive creative forms into a methodically constructed, tactile hybrid. “Typographic knitting to me is a process of translation between two very different fields, hand knitting structures and type design. This is what makes it so interesting to me,” he shares.

Schlömer first melded the two practices when refashioning soccer scarves. He knitted team colors, phrases, and the occasional mascot into long wearables, a process that taught him to pair the mediums. He learned that “patchwork knitting works better for large-scale pixel designs or modular typography. Mosaic knitting has a lot in common with geometric Kufic calligraphy and works better for small letterforms and repeat patterns.”

From that came his first typeface, Knit Grotesk. Taking cues from the san-serif Futura, the design features squares that evoke a low-resolution pixelation and is made for slip stitches rather than the characteristic “v” of the basic knit stitch. Schlömer adds:

When developing a typeface for knitting, I constantly change in between analog and digital. This is important in order to not get stuck in the logic of either medium. Some details might look great on screen but turn out to be problematic or boring when knitted. It’s a kind of cross-medial prototyping between the screen and knitting needles.

Since publishing his first book Typographic Knitting, Schlömer has leaned into teaching and will lead workshops in May for Zurich’s Craft Week and another in July with the Berlin Letters Festival. He also released a pattern for the blue-and-white striped alphabet blanket above on Ravelry, inspiring several knitters to take on the project. “Knowing how much work this takes, this means a lot to me,” he says.

Next up is designing a typeface accessible to beginners who might be trying their hand at lettering or knitting for the first time. Keep an eye out for that release and news about upcoming workshops on Instagram. You also might enjoy these stitched CMYK studies.

 

five orange and white striped knitted squares with the letter r written in them

a blue and white striped knit with the alphabet

three knitted squares, two are blue and white striped with the letter a and other letters and the other is orange and white with the letter r

strips of white and blue knits with text

a small white and blue knit square that reads type

a blue and white knit square with text

Do stories and artists like this matter to you? Become a Colossal Member today and support independent arts publishing for as little as $5 per month. The article Picking Up Pixels: Rüdiger Schlömer Designs Typefaces for Knitting appeared first on Colossal.