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Winter Vandenbrink’s timeless portraits of teen street style

Winter Vandenbrink’s timeless portraits of teen street style

In his new book Vandals, the Dutch-born, Paris-based photographer examines the uniforms of young men around Europe

8July 2024

“I took a lot of interest in having a very good hairdo,” says Winter Vandenbrink, reminiscing about his teen years in the Netherlands. “I was always in the shopping mall, hanging around listening to The Cure and Depeche Mode. It’s where I went to flaunt my hair.” The cast of Vandals, Vandenbrink’s new monograph of urban youth portraits, are similarly concerned with this leisurely pursuit, perceived by the photographer in “the places you don’t want to go to, tourist destinations and busy high streets” (read: Dam Square, the Duomo, Trafalgar Square and Piccadilly Circus). 

In his pictures, sartorial observations characterised by tight crops and a high resolution, Vandenbrink’s subjects wear various parties of sports labels, designer brands and streetwear. They pair The North Face with their Nike and layer Louis Vuitton over Adidas, often accessorising with a phone or a fizzy drink, sometimes a motorbike or a DSLR or an arm in a cast. Admired from afar and photographed with a long lens, this distinctive style of shooting is largely a byproduct of Vandenbrink’s introversion, but in part is also the result of being a teenager averse to wearing his glasses. “My parents wouldn’t let me wear contact lenses and the only things I could see were close by,” he shares. “So this became a fascination – with fabrics, skin, hair, whatever – which I think has something to do with it too.”

Recently published as a heavyweight, 400-page volume by IDEA, Vandals, the series, has been a part of Vandenbrink’s life for close to 12 years (an earlier, slimmer version of the title was released by Études in 2021). “At first it was purely for myself – [looking at] how these kids behave and dress – but slowly it took over from my fashion work and I started to become more of a documentary photographer,” he explains. “Since COVID, my Instagram’s got more popular and now when I post a recognisable image, like with a face, within a day or a few weeks somebody will message ‘hey, that’s me’. It’s nice to be in touch.” The book comes with additional text by Sean Thor Conroe.

At its core, Vandals examines the uniforms of young people around Europe, and there are echoes of Hans Eijkelboom’s People of the Twenty-First Century and Ari Versluis and Ellie Uyttenbroe’s Exactitudes in the project’s wider social framework. Vandenbrink however, is more informed by film he notes, offering directors Apichatpong Weerasethakul and Larry Clark as examples, while his background in the fashion industry was another catalyst. “It definitely comes from my fashion work [this interest in youth culture], being inspired by people like Raf Simons and his book The Fourth Sex: Adolescent Extremes,” he says. “Originally I started shooting every walk of life, but I quickly narrowed it down to this group, boys specifically, because I can really see it better – how they are, the possibility, or impossibility, to create their own individuality. I shoot girls as well, but it’s less clear to me.”

Previously calling the project Street Work, the book’s moniker arrived a few years ago via Vandenbrink’s boyfriend, who gave him a copy of the German philosopher Theodor Adorno’s Minima Moralia; Vandals is an essay from 1945. “The text is really about the saturation of capitalism and consumerism, and it helped shape the work – I had the subject, it was already about youngsters and consumerism – but the text helped me to aim my camera,” he suggests, additionally referencing 1914: One or Several Wolves, by the French philosophers Félix Guattari and Gilles Deleuze.

Still very much an active project (the book’s latest photographs were shot just a month before publishing, while Vandenbrink has already shot more since it went to print), the photographer is excited for where it might go next. “I don’t see [the book] as closure, it’s way too much fun. So I will go on, but maybe it will look different. For example, I did a shoot with a boy who found himself on my Instagram, it’s quite an interesting series, maybe I’m going to make it public in October,” he considers. “It’s a natural thing, ultimately, my camera is like one of those spiritual sticks that point to water, like a magic wand. I’m easily drawn to the things I want to capture.”

Photographer falls, chaos all around as Aryan Khan makes rare solo appearance for paparazzi. Watch

Photographer falls, chaos all around as Aryan Khan makes rare solo appearance for paparazzi. Watch
By | Edited by Santanu Das

Jul 08, 2024 05:03 PM IST

Aryan Khan made a rare solo appearance at a party in Mumbai on Sunday, which caused chaos as fans and paparazzi surrounded him for photographs.

Shah Rukh Khan‘s son Aryan Khan is yet to make his debut as a director in the industry yet he already enjoys a big fan following. Aryan was spotted at an upscale restaurant in Mumbai for party with friends. What’s more? The paparazzi surrounded him at the entrance and there was so much chaos that a photographer even fell just as he was about to walk inside the venue (Also read: Shah Rukh Khan’s son Aryan Khan wraps up shoot of his directorial debut Stardom, cuts huge cake. Watch)

Aryan Khan was seen arriving at a party in Mumbai on Sunday.
Aryan Khan was seen arriving at a party in Mumbai on Sunday.

Photographer falls in front of Aryan

In a video that has now surfaced on Instagram, Aryan Khan was seen getting out of his car to enter the venue when he was surrounded by a big crowd of fans and photographers. As security led him to the entrance, a photographer took a back step and fell in front of him. Aryan held him briefly and then moved ahead. For a few seconds, he posed for the paparazzi and then waved to everyone indicating that he was going inside. Aryan opted for a deep green t-shirt which he paired with a denim jacket and yellow jeans.

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At the same party, Aryan’s rumoured girlfriend, Larissa Bonesi was also seen. She was spotted arriving at the party later, which has now sparked rumors about Aryan’s relationship. Earlier, the two attended a concert together. Neither of them have confirmed about their relationship officially.

In May, Aryan completed the shoot of the series that will be marking his directorial debut. It is titled Stardom. In a video posted by the fan pages of Shah Rukh, Aryan was seen in a happy mood, cutting a huge white cake and celebrating with the cast and crew of the project. Bobby Deol and Mona Singh play pivotal parts in the project.

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19 million people watch photographer using Polaroid Lift technique – and the results are stunning!

19 million people watch photographer using Polaroid Lift technique – and the results are stunning!

The epitome of instant photography, Polaroid cameras experienced a frenzied popularity wave in the 1970s, only to be thwarted by increased film costs and, of course, the rise of digital. 

As with all good things, a passion for Polaroid photography has come around again, and one photographer on Instagram has had a huge amount of success with her unique way of developing her images. 

Texas-based photographer Hannah Harbour, 31, shared her video to Instagram, where it has been viewed by over 19 million people. 

Above: Hannah Harbour’s short video showing her Polaroid Lift technique

“Polaroids have been present in my life from childhood,” Harbour told Digital Camera Word, “I used to file through old family photos excitedly, captivated by the idyllic mellow saturation that seemed to freeze the past in a timeless haze .

“There’s something about the instant, unpredictable nature of a polaroid that is so exciting! Digital photography is great at capturing a moment of time, polaroid’s, however, capture the very feeling of a moment, the essence and soul of the subject in the shot; it’s magical, truly, nothing compares.”

Removing the polaroid picture from its backing  (Image credit: Hannah Harbour)

Using a variety of both analog and digital cameras, Harbour says her first love is film, and her current favorite camera is the Canon A1, “simply because it’s built like a tank and serves me well for just about everything.”

She also favors the Polaroid Now+, which has a Bluetooth feature you can control from your smartphone. “I find this extremely helpful given that I shoot a lot of self–portraits.”

“Recently, I’ve been shooting a lot more digital photos with the Olympus OM-D E-M1. I don’t have any particular reason for choosing this camera other than it was a decent, affordable option available when I decided to try my hand at digital. I figured if I enjoy it enough, I’ll invest in a “better” camera but for now it does the job!” 

The polaroid picture as its released from the backing

The picture in the water emulsion  (Image credit: Hannah Harbour)

Harbour shared her process with Digital Camera World. She starts with a freshly shot Polaroid, preferably between 15 minutes and an hour after the image was taken and had time to develop.

“The first step is to cut the border of the Polaroid off, leaving just the image. With the borderless image, I carefully peel the image apart and place the portion with the image into a tray of hot water.

“The water takes effect and begins to lift the image from the plastic part of the Polaroid, and I use a paintbrush to assist in the removal if needed.”

“Once the emulsion is free from the plastic, I straighten it out in the water using a paintbrush or my fingers and slowly insert a piece of watercolor paper in the water and under the emulsion.

“Using 2 fingers holding 2 corners of the emulsion to the paper, I lift it out of the water. To straighten the emulsion onto the paper, I will then dip each edge in and out of the water until I am happy with the result.

“I let it dry on paper towels until the emulsion is completely dry and secure the paper. If I am doing multiple emulsion lifts on one paper, I let each image dry before adding another, so the first image isn’t disturbed.”

The finished process of a polaroid emulsion

The finished result  (Image credit: Hannah Harbour)

Film cameras have seen a huge resurgence in popularity in recent years, with Leica reporting a 900% increase in film camera sales, after nearly scrapping their analog range altogether.

“I feel people are starting to emerge from the endless malaise of the digital and phone-photography era,” said Harbour, “where memories are captured instantly in abundance but just as quickly become lost in technical obsoletion. People are valuing physical media now more than ever as a way to possess a firm grip on their memories and passions.”

Take a look at our guides to the best instant cameras cameras, the best retro cameras, and the best film cameras on the market

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After learning photography in Paris, Berenice Abbott began documenting New York City in the early 1930s, tracking changes in the city’s boroughs as part of an effort that would become her project “Changing New York.”

Today she is well known for her imposing architectural photographs of new skyscrapers climbing toward the clouds, as well as sidewalk-level images of people and building facades.

One way she captured the spirit of a neighborhood was by photographing signs for businesses, churches and other organizations. Abbott’s regular focus on signage in the city made her one of the most important photographers of written language in the history of American photography.

Often, in photos like this one of the Blossom Restaurant in Lower Manhattan, Abbott plainly presents a multitude of written words as its own visual feast of shapes and lines. Today, as much as this work constitutes a record of a menu (Meatballs with Beans!) and prices (10 cents!) that seem improbable and quaint, it also stands as a playful exploration of the graphic qualities of written text.

Works like this also encourage us to think about how photography and language both work as systems of communication. For instance, whereas Abbott’s photograph conveys information through a kind of understated matter-of-fact-ness, the Blossom’s hand-printed menu depends on an overwhelming insistence to get the attention of passersby (Coffee, Tea, OR, Buttermilk!).

That tension between modes of representation helps makes this piece by Abbott such a captivating photograph.

This photograph will be on view at NOMA as part of a new permanent collection exhibition, “Show and Tell: A Brief History of Photography and Text,” opening Friday (July 12).

Brian Piper is Freeman Family Curator of Photographs, Prints, and Drawings.

Manisha Koirala recalls toxic 90s photographer who scolded her for not wearing a bikini: ‘Pighalne se sharmati ho’

Manisha Koirala recalls toxic 90s photographer who scolded her for not wearing a bikini: ‘Pighalne se sharmati ho’
By | Edited by Anurag Bohra

Jul 08, 2024 04:39 PM IST

Manisha Koirala was recently seen in Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s Heeramandi. She recently shared her experience with toxic patriarchy in 90s Bollywood.

Manisha Koirala recently shared the difficulties and hardships female actors faced in Bollywood during the 90s. The actor, who is known for being candid about the Hindi film industry, recounted an encounter with a male photographer. In an interview with Filmfare, Manisha disclosed how the senior photographer told her off for refusing to wear a bikini for a photoshoot. (Also read: Manisha Koirala meets Kamal Haasan; fans want them to reunite for a film again)

Manisha Koirala said that a male photographer in the 90s told her off for not wearing a bikini.
Manisha Koirala said that a male photographer in the 90s told her off for not wearing a bikini.

Manisha on her 90s experience as a female actor

Manisha, while sharing her experience told, “Very early on in my career I was asked to go and take photographs, and there was this very famous photographer. I went with my mom, and initially, that photographer said things like, ‘You are the next superstar and this and that.’ Cut to him bringing a two-piece bikini to me and asking me to wear it. I told him, ‘Sir, I wear this when I go to the beach or for a swim, but if this is the way I have to get into the movies, I don’t want it, and I am not wearing that.’”

She further said, “I told him either you shoot me fully clothed otherwise I am… ‘ I remember he gave me a big dialogue. He said, ‘Jo mitti pighalne se sharmati ho uske murti kaise banaye (The clay that refuses to melt, how do I make a statue from it)’. I have not forgotten that. That’s how the mentality was of some of the people, not everybody. The same person did photograph me when I was a big celebrity and said, “Oh, I knew you were going to be a big star. Not to be mean to the person, but their conscience level was that. Their exposure was that, so they behaved like that.”

Manisha Koirala’s acting career

Manisha started her acting career with a Nepali romantic-drama called Pheri Bhetaula. She then made her Bollywood debut in Subhash Ghai’s Saudagar (1991) and went on to star in popular Indian films such as Dhanwan (1993), 1942: A Love Story (1994), Bombay (1995), Agni Sakshi (1996), Gupt: The Hidden Truth (1997), Dil Se.. (1998), and Company (2002). After some time away from the industry, Manisha returned with the anthology film Lust Stories (2018) and also played Nargis Dutt in Sanju (2018). Her most recent movie release was Shehzada (2023), and she received acclaim for her OTT debut in Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s Heeramandi: The Diamond Bazaar (2024), where she portrayed the character Mallikajaan in a story set in pre-partition India. The epic show also features Sonakshi Sinha, Aditi Rao Hydari, Richa Chadha, Sharmin Segal, Shekhar Suman, Adhyayan Suman, Fardeen Khan and others.

Heeramandi has been renewed for the second season. The first installment is available for streaming on Netflix.

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Creative pictures by 21-year-old Indian photographer will make you fall in love with sunsets

Creative pictures by 21-year-old Indian photographer will make you fall in love with sunsets

Published on Jul 08, 2024 03:54 PM IST

Aditya Srirang Bhat, a 21-year-old loves to tell stories through sunset silhouette photography. 

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21-year-old Indian photographer, Aditya Srirang Bhat loves to capture sunsets and paint compelling stories with the sun as his canvas. Hailing from Pawas, a small village in the Ratnagiri district of Maharashtra, he’s a psychology graduate.
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Published on Jul 08, 2024 03:54 PM IST

21-year-old Indian photographer, Aditya Srirang Bhat loves to capture sunsets and paint compelling stories with the sun as his canvas. Hailing from Pawas, a small village in the Ratnagiri district of Maharashtra, he’s a psychology graduate.

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He tells Hindustan Times, Covid was a blessing in disguise for him, igniting his passion for photography. With lockdown shutting schools and colleges nationwide, and physical classes going virtual, Aditya for the first time purchased a smartphone for his online classes. Before Covid, he didn’t own any smartphone or camera, so never got the chance to try out photography.  
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Published on Jul 08, 2024 03:54 PM IST

He tells Hindustan Times, Covid was a blessing in disguise for him, igniting his passion for photography. With lockdown shutting schools and colleges nationwide, and physical classes going virtual, Aditya for the first time purchased a smartphone for his online classes. Before Covid, he didn’t own any smartphone or camera, so never got the chance to try out photography.  

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After finishing his online classes, Aditya explored the local biodiversity in Pawas, brimming with rich flora and fauna. Religiously, after classes, he would spend a good 7-8 hours trying to capture creative shots of insects and animals and post them on his social media. His photos gained good reach and responses and even received tips from photography experts. Slowly, he nurtured this newfound hobby into a fervent passion. 
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Published on Jul 08, 2024 03:54 PM IST

After finishing his online classes, Aditya explored the local biodiversity in Pawas, brimming with rich flora and fauna. Religiously, after classes, he would spend a good 7-8 hours trying to capture creative shots of insects and animals and post them on his social media. His photos gained good reach and responses and even received tips from photography experts. Slowly, he nurtured this newfound hobby into a fervent passion. 

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Sunset as a beautiful natural creation has always drawn him, creating a soft corner for sunset photography in him. When he got his first phone, he often clicked pictures of sunset by the lake or beach, capturing the marvelous reflection. Then the idea of playing with light and shadows dawned on him. This type of photography of light and shadow is called sunset silhouette photography. 
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Published on Jul 08, 2024 03:54 PM IST

Sunset as a beautiful natural creation has always drawn him, creating a soft corner for sunset photography in him. When he got his first phone, he often clicked pictures of sunset by the lake or beach, capturing the marvelous reflection. Then the idea of playing with light and shadows dawned on him. This type of photography of light and shadow is called sunset silhouette photography. 

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As his love for photography and awe for sunsets converged, he started to experiment, playing with sun’s light and shadows. He tried many different concepts like cricket with sunset, archery with sunset, shotput with sunset, solar lantern, and so on. Nature is his favourite subject, and natural elements like flowers, leaves, and butterflies, feature prominently in his shots. When he posted these on social media, they gained traction in no time. Noticing the potential sunset silhouette photography has, he worked on it, making it his niche. Aditya became more active and posted regularly 2022 onwards.  
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View Photos in a new improved layout

Published on Jul 08, 2024 03:54 PM IST

As his love for photography and awe for sunsets converged, he started to experiment, playing with sun’s light and shadows. He tried many different concepts like cricket with sunset, archery with sunset, shotput with sunset, solar lantern, and so on. Nature is his favourite subject, and natural elements like flowers, leaves, and butterflies, feature prominently in his shots. When he posted these on social media, they gained traction in no time. Noticing the potential sunset silhouette photography has, he worked on it, making it his niche. Aditya became more active and posted regularly 2022 onwards.  

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Aditya began to plan out in advance to get the best possible shot. To properly be a storyteller through his shots, he rehearsed with his friends, reaching the spot early and trying out different poses. To quite literally capture the sun, he had to be meticulous in planning. A clear sky is a must, cloudy days block the sun and he had to wait for weeks. Aditya believed that timing and patience are crucial in sunset photography. One needs on their toes when the sun comes up, if timing is wrong, there’s no option to retake it the same day. 
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Published on Jul 08, 2024 03:54 PM IST

Aditya began to plan out in advance to get the best possible shot. To properly be a storyteller through his shots, he rehearsed with his friends, reaching the spot early and trying out different poses. To quite literally capture the sun, he had to be meticulous in planning. A clear sky is a must, cloudy days block the sun and he had to wait for weeks. Aditya believed that timing and patience are crucial in sunset photography. One needs on their toes when the sun comes up, if timing is wrong, there’s no option to retake it the same day. 

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His sunset photographs were released in more than 20 countries including UK, Brazil, China, Korea, and more. It’s quite an inspirational feat since he captured the stunning sunset pictures only with his phone camera. He wants to pursue a career in photography in the future. 
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Published on Jul 08, 2024 03:54 PM IST

His sunset photographs were released in more than 20 countries including UK, Brazil, China, Korea, and more. It’s quite an inspirational feat since he captured the stunning sunset pictures only with his phone camera. He wants to pursue a career in photography in the future. 

“Budding photographers shouldn’t be afraid to jump out of their comfort zone. When I first started out, I said yes to everything that came my way”.

“Budding photographers shouldn’t be afraid to jump out of their comfort zone. When I first started out, I said yes to everything that came my way”.

Content creation has gradually been revolutionizing the world of commercial photography and marketing. It’s transformed from a pool of images on platforms like Instagram and 500px into a dynamic and multifaceted art form. Having started out directing social media campaigns, photographer and videographer Chris Priestley is a full-time creator who harnesses the power of Canon cameras to bring his ideas to life.

You need energy, passion and a multi-skilled approach to succeed online in the crowded digital era, but Chris is careful with what he posts, usually opting for quality over quantity. Self-taught and seemingly self-driven, he now shoots white-label campaigns for massive global brands and has already worked with (and for) Starbucks, Red Bull and Aston Martin.

Blending a mixture of editorial and commercial genres, Chris’s luxury lifestyle content often receives millions of views, but his approach and budgets can be impressively low-key. Read on to discover the evolution of Chris’ career, and how switching from DSLR to mirrorless has been pivotal in helping him to create dramatic and compelling narratives that keep drawing audiences and clients back for more.

A headshot of photographer Chris Priestley
Chris Priestley

Based in London, Chris Priestley creates high-end commercial content for the social channels of major lifestyle, luxury travel and fashion brands. He was previously the in-house director and cinematographer at British digital media company Jungle Creations, where he directed viral videos and print stills for household names such as Red Bull. He regularly features on the Canon Europe website sharing tips, techniques and insights into his gear and portfolio.

Hey Chris. How would you describe your work?

It’s geared more towards social-first platforms, so my work needs to capture the eye of an audience who wouldn’t necessarily be searching for it. On a more basic level, I like my images to be dynamic and fun, with dramatic elements in both the foreground and the background. 

People also feature heavily in your work…

I love shooting portraits, focusing on the lights and shadows that fall in the foreground and background, and combining or matching colors to create a pleasing image. My portraits are more soft and colorful, where the foreground elements don’t contrast so heavily with the background.

I also produce content for my Instagram and TikTok, where I get to play around with different creative styles and try out new techniques. That could be learning how to light a portrait by photographing myself in my living room or challenging myself to shoot ‘spec ads’ for well-known brands.

One of the iconic waterfalls in the west of Iceland, shot with a long exposure to create that silky, glass-like look of the water (Image credit: Chris Priestley)

What drew you towards luxury travel, lifestyle and fashion?

When I first moved to London, I had a full-time job for a social media company, and in my spare time I started shooting with lifestyle influencers. From there, I had the opportunity to shoot for big brands in the industry. This included hotels around the world, and while I was out there I would offer these hotels content on top of the content I was shooting for the influencer. 

The social media company I worked for saw what I was doing and asked if I would create viral content. Some of these videos would garner up to 70 million views on Facebook back in the day.

What Canon gear would we find in your bag?

I always have my Canon EOS R5 as my main body and a Canon EOS R as a second shooter. I would pack my wide-angle lens, the Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8L IS USM, my mid-shot lens, the RF 50mm f/1.2L USM, and my telephoto RF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM

Apart from that, nothing more than a few spare batteries and CFexpress cards. The fundamentals in my camera bag haven’t changed much over the years. I used to have the EOS-1D X Mark II and the equivalent EF lenses. They cover the full range of focal points that I use daily.

“Greece’s clean white walls offer the perfect backdrop for portraits. My friend was wearing a red dress that helped her stand out from the white walls and blue door” (Image credit: Chris Priestley)

Has moving to the EOS R mirrorless system made a big difference?

The EOS R systems came with a newer range of RF lenses, which had greater continuous shooting capacities, better autofocus and image stabilization – an additional upgrade on the previous systems. 

Moving over to the EOS R mirrorless system has made a world of difference to how and what I can create, and generally made my life easier as a photographer. Lots of shoots I work on can be very fast-paced and require a run-and-gun setup, and most of the time, I don’t have the luxury of perfectly framing my image. 

The higher megapixel count on the EOS R5 means I can reframe my images in post-production while keeping their high quality. The other huge benefit is the incredible autofocus. The different subject tracking modes for people, animals and cars mean I only have to worry about getting the subject in the frame. 

The R5 can shoot up to 8K RAW 30p (not that I need to use that just yet, but it’s great to know that it’s there for when I do), but I use the full-frame 4K 120p regularly.

Do you do a lot of post-production work, then?

Editing is a big part of my work. I like to get creative with composites. I started using composites in product photography to ensure the product looked perfect before I could worry about the rest of the elements in the image. So, I started shooting each element separately. 

This gives me full control over how the image is built in post and this technique has given me the ability to create images I could never do in-camera. I also tend to shoot mostly on my own. The technique also frees me to work on one thing at a time.

What’s the key to keeping up with posting and platform trends?

That’s a good question. I don’t tend to post very often or follow trends. I like to put a lot of thought and work into each post, and before you know it, the trend has passed. I like to create content that the majority of viewers find relatable. 

This can range from teaching photography fundamentals to making a how-to-style video about shooting a hyperlapse. In the same way that I started in photography by watching tutorials on YouTube, I know that many people are scrolling through their social media, eager to learn more. I know that if you are a creative in any form, an easy way to keep up with posting is to document your process. People love to see behind the scenes and the work that goes into your craft and the results.

“I was on a hiking holiday in Switzerland, and we would always come across these cows. You could always hear them before you saw them, due to their huge cowbells” (Image credit: Chris Priestley)

What’s the most important skill for any photographer or creator who wants to turn pro?

I would say that budding photographers shouldn’t be afraid to jump out of their comfort zone. They won’t end up shooting the style of photography they want all the time. When I first started out, I said yes to everything that came my way. This meant I learned new camera and photographic skills, through trial and error, which have led to me developing a more well-rounded skill set.

What’s coming up next for you?

I never know what’s around the corner. I’ve just started my own production company with my co-founder, Ellie. So for now, I’m focused on building that up, working with more clients, and building up to working on larger productions. 

I started as a solo shooter, working on smaller productions – acting as an
art director, photographer, stylist, editor, and lighting technician. As I’ve progressed over the years, the productions have started to get bigger, allowing the opportunity to work with more specialized creatives collaboratively. I’m excited for these productions and teams to get bigger
as I work with larger clients


A longer version of this interview originally appeared in Issue 211 of Photo Plus magazine. Click the link below to see our latest special subscription deal!

Photographs of North Staffordshire’s unique oatcake shops that you won’t find anywhere else

Photographs of North Staffordshire’s unique oatcake shops that you won’t find anywhere else

No matter where we call home, we’ll never forget where we grew up. Those familiar streets and people, the experiences we had, make us who we are. We might be happier in our new location, but there is always a pull to “home” – a hunger for nostalgia, comfort, and the things we consider part of our roots.

For photographer David Fletcher, that’s the humble Staffordshire Oatcake from Stoke-on-Trent. If you’ve never heard of it, it’s a local delicacy of the Potteries. A sort of savoury pancake that you can’t find anywhere else in the world. “It’s a unique regional food, only found today in and around North Staffordshire,” says David. “It is a kind of savoury pancake – not hard like the more familiar Scottish oatcake – and about the size of a small dinner plate. It is traditionally eaten for breakfast, typically with bacon and cheese. Never made at home, it is bought from your local oatcake shop, each with its own closely-guarded recipe.”

The small shops David speaks of are almost always family-run, some of which have been in the same family for generations. “I know of one which has been in the same family since 1934. If a shop is sold, the recipe is part of the deal,” he says.

Growing up in Stoke-on-Trent, the oatcake was part of David’s life, and it was only when he moved away that he realised they weren’t available elsewhere. “Trips home may have been notionally undertaken to visit relatives and friends, but the purchase of oatcakes to bring home for the freezer was always part of the itinerary,” he says. “Not the same as fresh, but an adequate substitute when needs must.”

​Oatcakes are cooked on a griddle and traditionally hand-poured, but some shops have retro-fitted ingenious machines to pour the mixture, each one crafted to fit the existing grill. “These machines come from a tradition of precision engineering in the Potteries which complimented the pottery, brick-making, steel and mining industries,” David continues, “a tradition which produced the designer of the Spitfire by Reginald Mitchell.”

​Oatcakes can be purchased plain to use at home (make mine with cheese and pepper, please), but the griddle means shops can add and cook various fillings for those wanting to eat on the go. You can choose from traditional bacon and cheese to black pudding and beans. “It provides a kind of fast food ideal for sustaining the hard labour of workers in heavy industries,” David says.

Today, David is an award-winning documentary photographer based in the New Forest. When he began this project to document Stoke’s oatcake shops, he thought he might be recording a disappearing world but was delighted to discover that they’re still flourishing. “As well as the bricks and mortar, I wanted to capture the oatcake-making process and, importantly, the people on both sides of the counter. This story is little known outside Stoke, so I wanted to spread the word,” he says.

Covering all the oatcake shops in a Stoke-on-Trent postcode he’s aware of, David would love to know of any he might’ve missed. He has enjoyed meeting the people behind each location and would happily document more. “Oatcake shops are not just places to buy food; they are a social phenomenon. I also found shops that have been part of the same Stoke family for generations. I found one run by a woman from Latvia and one by a woman from Poland who is married to an Italian. Another shop has a champion darts player, the owner’s brother, making the oatcake mix.

What makes the oatcakes so special to him? “The localisation of the shops makes the whole story of Staffordshire oatcakes special – if Stoke was in France, I feel sure they would have their own protected status like Brioche Vendéenne or Pâtes d’Alsace. They are unusual in a world of fast food in that they are hand-made and sold fresh. But the most important thing is that they taste so good.”

As a “Stokie in exile”, David has definitely appreciated his roots as he’s got older, like many of us. “I suppose our spectacles become more rose-tinted as we age,” he says. “As the first generation in my family to go to school beyond 16, let alone go to university, I have grown to appreciate too what opportunities my parents and grandparents opened up for me. At 18, we are in a hurry to escape our hometowns and look for greener grass, but when I return to Stoke now, the strength of the memories evoked is like a physical force.”

David’s first experience of photography was with his father in a home darkroom and later in the studio of a Burslem printworks, where he rose from apprentice to manager. Other careers “got in the way”,” but he has since returned to photography professionally following an MA in Documentary Photography at the University of Westminster. Other recent documentary projects include New Forest Commoners, the Irish Border, and absentee slave-owners.

He says of his latest project on Stoke-on-Trent: “It’s not a pretty place, but it has a powerful, somewhat forgotten history. As well as being a leader of the world-renowned Stoke pottery industry, Burslem-born Josiah Wedgwood was a key figure in the 18th-century Midland Enlightenment along with engineers Matthew Boulton and James Watt, chemist Joseph Priestley and physician Erasmus Darwin. Leading advocates of the abolition of slavery, Erasmus and Josiah were the grandparents of Charles Darwin. Writer Arnold Bennett and designer of the Spitfire, Reginald Mitchell, were also sons of Stoke. Perhaps the oatcake can help to lead a Staffordshire renaissance!”

Meet Angela Hill, the Photographer Behind the World’s Coolest Bookshop

Meet Angela Hill, the Photographer Behind the World’s Coolest Bookshop

Angela Hill, photographed by Hamish McMillan.

On a typical gray afternoon in London, I found myself inside a cozy Soho bookshop surrounded by a mosaic of vintage books and magazines. Architecture guides, Vogue Italia, David Bowie biographies, and Japanese film books were stacked by the hundreds. George Harrison’s All Things Must Pass spun on the record player. Shortbread cookies sat on a table with fresh flowers and a calculator. “It’s like you’re in my living room!” Angela Hill, the co-founder of IDEA books, told me. She offered me cookies and tea and led me to the interior design section. IDEA has occupied this space since 2009, but in February, it opened to the public. Hill never planned to own a bookshop, she revealed. She’s a fashion photographer who just loves collecting books and magazines. But when a friend of a friend asked to buy her collection to sell at Colette in Paris, the grand idea, if you will, materialized. From then on, Hill said, “it just got bigger.” I left the shop with a magazine and a hat, wanting to know more, so I called Hill last month to talk accidental career paths, 1980s Ibiza, 19th century literature, and her own photography practice. 

———

LEILA SHERIDAN: How are you? How’s the London weather?

ANGELA HILL: It’s our one warm day out of 365.

SHERIDAN: Oh, and I missed it.

HILL: Yeah. People go nuts when they see a bit of sun here, literally pulling their shirts off. The guys are topless, the girls are all down at the lido. 

SHERIDAN: Well, happy to hear that it’s nice outside. What makes your ideal reading spot? 

HILL: It’s the same whether I am researching, reading a novel, or just flicking through a magazine. I like being on my own. There’s quite a few ideal environments. One is indoors at home, might be winter. You feel cozy and comfortable and you’ve got the luxury of maybe an afternoon ahead of you—you can use that time to read. Or my childhood house in the garden after school, which is my mother’s house now. She has a Scandinavian summer house with a little terrace deck. I’d either sit in there in cooler weather or sit out on the terrace on the deck with a cup of tea.

SHERIDAN: Perfect. Are you reading anything right now?

HILL: I’ve been reading the 19th century female authors. I’ve done Jane Austen, all the Brontës, and now I’m getting through the works of George Eliot while concurrently reading Martin Amis, which is a good contrast.

SHERIDAN: Wow. Could you take me through the birth of IDEA? 

HILL: I never meant to be a bookseller, but when I was working as a photographer in the ’90s, I wasn’t getting the jobs to make it work full-time. I was getting editorial, but they weren’t paying. Sarah [Andelman], who owned Colette in Paris, came to where I lived in West London with flatmates, because she was a friend of one of them, and saw my books that I had for photography and said, “Can I buy your books?” I said, “No, but when I come over to Paris for a job or something, I will bring as many books as I can carry.” And that was what we did for quite a while. I used to go to Paris with a couple of plastic bags and she’d give me some money and put the books in her shop, and it just got bigger. I bought more and more, got other clients who were mostly just coming around my house, and this just continued. And then Sarah said Dover Street was opening in London, the first Dover Street, and that I should have a space in there and go and talk to them. So I did. By this time, my husband had joined me because he was doing two freelance jobs and they’d both fizzled out at the same time. Our accountant rented us half an office on the street and when I moved in, I told him, “One day I’ll have this whole building.” And now I do.

SHERIDAN: Wow.

HILL: But it was a slow process. It didn’t happen overnight. And I never meant for it to happen in the first place. 

SHERIDAN: Were you always collecting books or was it mostly for editorial inspiration?

HILL: That’s easy to answer. Always collecting books.

SHERIDAN: Always?

HILL: Ever since [I was] a child.

SHERIDAN: Did you always gravitate to specific types of books?

HILL: When I was a child, I was obsessed with horses and ballet. I bought all of those. I also used to do a lot of reading when I was little. And then I got into fashion. I buy a lot of film because I like my photography to look like film stills. We find that a lot of creatives buy film books, but fashion people don’t buy fashion books. They buy interiors, film, graphics, but not fashion books.

SHERIDAN: Speaking of fashion people, I know that you rent out the shop for days at a time and sort through inspiration. What does the shop look like when this happens? How is it different from a normal day? 

HILL: Yeah, sometimes teams of 10 come along and we shut off the rare book room so that they can have peace and quiet in there. The shop does look different because then people who come can’t go into that room, they go in the magazine room. That’s always fun because I love to help people. I notice them looking at one particular book and then I think, “Ah, I bet they don’t know about …” and then I show them something that’s complementary. I love that whole process.

SHERIDAN: How did the fashion world discover IDEA?

HILL: Instagram was a real turning point for us. It transformed our business, and we suddenly got a cult following.

SHERIDAN: How have you used Instagram to leverage the book selling business and connect with people?

HILL: We try and make it fun and instantaneous, because Instagram is a very, very good place to show books. I might have a 150-page book and only show you three images, but if they’re cleverly chosen, they will make you very curious to look at more.

SHERIDAN: Right. Do you think your background as a fashion photographer helps you determine what would be the most captivating Instagram posts?

HILL: Yes, in some ways. It’s mostly my partner in the business, David, who does Instagram, but we tend to weirdly totally agree on imagery. And sometimes it’s very obvious. We do very well with books about Ibiza. There are just certain images from the ’80s of Ibiza playboys and clubs and everything where one page can sell a book.

SHERIDAN: I’ve never been to Ibiza, but—

HILL: Nor have I. Nor have I.

SHERIDAN: Really? None of these pictures make you want to go?

HILL: Yes, in some ways, but we mainly deal in the old Ibiza. We even have books going back to the ’60s in black and white. And then the proliferation of the clubs and everything, ’80s supper clubs. Even the ’90s books sell. It never ends.

SHERIDAN: Is there a time period where you have sourced most of your books and magazines?

HILL: We both love the ’80s. But we have a lot of ’90s and 2000s, too. 

SHERIDAN: What makes a good book or magazine to resell? How do you know if something’s going to be coveted?

HILL: That’s a difficult one because I don’t know why I picked something out from the shelf. It’s got appeal, it’s got imagery. I always have the feeling I need to store things so that I never forget them. I might record it in a book with a Post-it note, but I might not revisit that book for 10 years. Then I pull it off the shelf and I think, “Oh god, I remember that. That’s why I put the Post-it note there,” and then I’ll use it. So I have mental storage in my head at all times.

SHERIDAN: Do you know how many books and magazines you have in your entire shop inventory?

HILL: Whoa. I literally have no idea.

SHERIDAN: Do you have a favorite? I know it’s like choosing a favorite child. 

HILL: It’s easier to choose a favorite child. But she’s never going to see this, so she won’t know. I’m just joking. Tina Barney is a favorite photographer of mine, any Tina Barney title. Interiors from the ’80s I particularly love. I like Japanese interiors. I like Japanese gardens. I also love any kind of hippie, West Coast of the States, utopian attitude of, “Yeah, we can all live in a commune together. It will work perfectly. We’re going to save the world.” That kind of attitude in the ’70s, including literally making your own clothes from an old tea towel, it’s amazing. Paris, Texas is also never going to go away for me. The book of the film is almost as good as the film itself. Because you get all the Polaroids from the location hunting before, you get the full script, you get all the stills. And then at the end you get those wonderfully charming cast biographies and the picture from when the crew wrapped up the film and they get together for a picture and they’re all waving. It’s just so charming and real, and it takes you through the whole process of making a film.

SHERIDAN: You’re also a book publisher.

HILL: Yeah.

SHERIDAN: I was hoping you could talk about what started this venture, and how it feels different to sell a book that you created versus one that you sourced?

HILL: There’s an artist, skateboarder, filmmaker named Gosha Rubchinskiy, who had a little installation in Dover Street Market, London around 2009 or 2010. I found a couple of his little zines he’d made to go with his collection. It was a very small collection of tracksuit bottoms, skateboard style. They were shots in St. Petersburg of some young boys, skateboarders, because Gosha is Russian, and I bought everything that was there. I said to the guys in Dover Street, “Does this guy ever come in?” And they said, “Yeah, sometimes.” And I said, “Well, I’m going to leave these zines here, but can you ask him to sign them?” Then I found out that one of my very good friends, a Russian girl, actually knew him. So through her, I contacted him and said, “Can you come in the office sometime? Have you got spare images? Do you want to publish with me?” And we weren’t publishing at all, I just really wanted to do it. My partner in the business was very reluctant at first, because he didn’t think we’d make money, but I said, “Okay, I’m going to do it anyway and I’ll publish it under my own name, not under IDEA.” So that’s the only book we’ve ever published with the name “Hill” in it, not IDEA. That was the first and it sold out.

SHERIDAN: And it proved that you guys could really do it.

HILL: Then we moved on to Collier Schorr, Willy Vanderperre, Glen Luchford, Suzanne Koller. Over the years we’ve published so much.

SHERIDAN: And you published your own photography book, Sylvia, right?

HILL: Yeah. And Edith, the number two. I’m doing a trilogy, so I’m working on number three now.

SHERIDAN: This is a question going back to a previous conversation we had. Your shop was initially appointment-only. What made you want to open up the doors to people like me?

HILL: When we were able to expand and get the whole building, we moved the publishing department and admin to the third floor, which is where I am now. We expanded and renovated the second floor and made it into the shop. The first floor is all about packing parcels, more admin, dealing with customers over the phone, couriers. But to go back to your previous question, it does make a difference when I’m selling my own publication versus IDEA’s publication, because you want people to like what you like, but also what you’re showing them. You want them to go away happy and maybe a little changed after they’ve been in the shop. Maybe they come in with a whole set of ideas in their head, we can show them other stuff, and they go out with a whole different route of thinking, like “Oh yeah, I could shoot it like that,” or, “I could design a skirt.” Or you’ve got the best gift for someone and that makes you happy to see them happy. All of those things add up. 

SHERIDAN: Yeah, I could imagine how incredible that would feel. How many books do you publish a year? 

HILL: This year’s the biggest ever, 10, 12. 

SHERIDAN: Do people come to you? Do you go seek them out?

HILL: A lot of people come to us because they all think they’ve got a bestselling book. We see a lot of beautiful things, but we know from experience that some aren’t going to be sold to anyone apart from family members. So most of the books that are published  are those we seek out, and some people we’ve been working with over and over again. We just ask them, “Have you got anything else? What are you working on? Should we do a book of this?”

SHERIDAN: Is there a recently published book that you’re most excited about, or an upcoming one?

HILL: Always Nadia Lee Cohen. She’s just an amazing, creative filmmaker, photographer, actress, model. We’re doing something with her at the end of the year. I’m also really proud of the Buck Ellison book we just published. He’s an American artist. We launched Winter Vandenbrink’s VANDALS in Paris last Saturday, and that is great. Anything we ever do with Glen Luchford, Suzanne Koller, all these people at the top of their game. It’s their brilliance we’re just putting onto paper.

SHERIDAN: So in addition to reselling and publishing, you have some fun hats and accessories. What inspired that?

HILL: I wanted to do a bag or a t-shirt and I started to think, “Why are some people cult figures?” Chloe Sevigny, Sofia Coppola, Winona Ryder, Keanu Reeves. We also sold and still sell these Japanese icon books produced in the ’80s, ’90s, where it’s just photos of one particular model, actress, actor, whatever. They can be anything from Robert De Niro, Sofia Coppola, Chloe Sevigny, Kate Moss. She’s always going to be cool, I suppose. I thought, “What names are out there that make you only think of one person?” Winona is very much one of those names. So we started with a bag or a t-shirt for Winona and they’re still selling now. Keanu is another one where you say the name and most people think Keanu Reeves. The Keanu Reeves cushion sold out. 

SHERIDAN: And now your merch says things like “Spoilt Brat,” which I have.

HILL: I love “Spoilt Brat.” Our bestselling hats are, “Sorry I Don’t Work Here.” And the “Collier” hat. It’s very, very big in South Korea because one of the K-Pop stars wore it.

SHERIDAN: What’s your favorite slogan? 

HILL: At the moment, I like “Risk Management.” I don’t know why. I just like corporate sounding things.

SHERIDAN: I like “Annual Leave.”

HILL: “Annual Leave” is good. We used to do an “Intern” t-shirt with the idea that the boss of the company would wear it in an ironic way. We haven’t made any for a while, but yesterday in the shop, a guy came in the pale gray “intern” T-shirt and looked really cool in it.

SHERIDAN: You should bring it back. I would get one.

HILL: I should bring it back.

Realme collaborates with Sony, says on-device AI to enhance photography

Realme collaborates with Sony, says on-device AI to enhance photography

BANGKOK: The combination of on-device artificial intelligence (AI) processing and flagship-grade optical sensors in smartphones will significantly enhance the photography experience for users, according to Realme. The Chinese smartphone maker has inked a strategic partnership with Sony to equip its smartphones, starting with the Realme 13 Pro 5G series, with the Japanese conglomerate’s imaging sensors.

“Cutting-edge optics is the foundation of any image solution. But even the best optics will always be limited (in capabilities) due to size constraints. That is where the on-device AI can understand complex shooting scenarios, and enhance effects like lights and shadows. We are now moving towards a solution that intuitively understands what a good-quality photo looks like,” Francis Wong, Head of Product Marketing at Realme told reporters at a press conference.

Realme has developed its three-layered AI photography architecture, called Hyprimage+, consisting of flagship optics, on-device AI imaging algorithms, and cloud-based AI image editing.

“We are bringing all these innovations to Realme smartphones. So, the Realme 13 Pro+ will come with our most advanced imaging system Hyperimage+,” Wong said.

“I am very excited to announce that we have entered into a strategic collaboration with Sony. From now on, Realme flagships will be powered by Sony’s image sensors,” the Realme executive said, adding that the Realme 13 Pro series will come with the 50MP main camera with Sony LYT-701 sensor and a 50MP periscope telephoto camera with the Sony LYT-600 sensor.

“This collaboration is about more than just technology, it’s about empowering everyone to capture and share their world in ways never before imagined,” Toshimitsu Kurosaka, Vice President of Sony Semiconductor Solutions (Shanghai) Limited, said in a virtual address.

The company separately said in a statement that by bringing AI capabilities to image processing in RAW, the Realme AI HyperRAW algorithm significantly boosts image clarity and dynamic range to capture “authentic light and shadow with true-to-life results”.

The Realme 13 Pro 5G series will feature AI Pure Bokeh, AI Natural Skin Tone, and AI Ultra Clarity features.

Realme is the latest handset brand to dip its toes into the AI waters to improve device functionalities for its users. Its Chinese peers Xiaomi, Oppo, and Vivo, as well as, South Korean Google, and internet major Google are either integrating AI or generative AI, or plan to introduce features driven by this technology into their devices in some form.

(The author was in Thailand at the invitation of Realme)

  • Published On Jul 8, 2024 at 01:43 PM IST

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