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20th-Century Style, According to George Hoyningen-Huene

20th-Century Style, According to George Hoyningen-Huene

In 1965, New York’s Museum of Modern Art held a summer exhibition titled “Glamour Portraits.” Images in the show presented “mythical women as created by photographers since the 1850s.” It was a first—fashion photography had gained entrée to a museum.

Many big names were in the show: the Victorian giants Adolphe Braun and Julia Margaret Cameron, midcentury phenoms Man Ray and Cecil Beaton, postwar stars Irving Penn and Richard Avedon. And then there was George Hoyningen-Huene, who loomed large among them. When he died three years later, in 1968, he was preparing for his own solo show at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, scheduled for and realized in 1970.

Art galleries turn to fresh forms of collaboration as market splinters

This year’s 12th edition of Frieze New York opens with the art trade under pressure. The fair, followed by an extended season of commercial events that culminate in the city’s bellwether auctions, finds itself in a market that has started the year in distinctly depressed form, exacerbated by macroeconomic volatility and geopolitical uncertainty. 

Most gallerists are putting on a brave face, noting that decent sales are still being made in an environment where business could be a lot worse. There has been “a little correction”, says Olivia Barrett, founding director of the LA gallery Château Shatto, which brings a mixed booth of artists to Frieze (May 1-5). She thinks that for smaller galleries such as hers, the wider world has a less immediate impact. “We run a tight programme so tend not to experience the peaks or the troughs,” she says.

For some of her peers, though, the backdrop has prompted creative business thinking. “At this moment of uncertainty, adaptability is key,” says the New York gallerist Nicola Vassell. She is referring to the gallery’s tie-up with the global outfit Hauser & Wirth, where the mega-gallery agreed to co-represent Vassell’s artist Uman. Unlike other shared representation deals, for which a partner gallery could, at best, get a small percentage of their artist’s sales elsewhere, the arrangement with Hauser & Wirth splits the commission evenly. Called Collective Impact, the structure was initiated with the Uman partnership last year and Hauser & Wirth has since struck the same deal with New York’s Company Gallery and their artist Ambera Wellmann.

In a photo, a young woman wearing a black apron over a white shirt stands in the middle of her canvases and sketch-filled studio.
Portrait of Uman in her studio (2023). A Somalia-born, New York-based artist, she draws on her cross-cultural identity to paint otherworldly, colourful universes © Courtesy the artist/Hauser & Wirth/Nicola Vassell Gallery. Photo: Luigi Cazzaniga

As the (much) bigger partner, Hauser & Wirth’s management sees Collective Impact as “an entrepreneurial way to support a smaller structure and put the artist in mind first”, says gallery president Marc Payot. The idea, he says, came up during the pandemic, “when the gap between the larger galleries and the rest of the ecosystem got bigger”.

The 2023 Art Basel/UBS Art Market report found that at dealers with a turnover of more than $10mn, sales increased by 19 per cent in 2022, while those with turnover below $250,000 reported an average fall of 3 per cent, having also posted the smallest rise in sales in 2021. (The trend sharply reversed last year.)

Collaborating, says Payot, helps prevent the situation where an artist decides to leave their grassroots gallery for a bigger player — known in the industry as “poaching”, but often simply motivated by the artist’s growing commercial success needing a bigger network. Keeping the original gallery on board means that activity continues at price levels where the megas don’t operate and “offers the artist a space where they feel comfortable”, Payot says. In exchange, the structure gives its mega-collaborator “the street cred of access to a younger generation of artists and curators”.

A neon-lit white sign hanging on a wall reads ‘EGOÏSTE’ in capital letters.
‘Égoïste’ (2023) by Sylvie Fleury © Courtesy the artist/Karma International/Sprüth Magers. Photo: Ben Westoby
A neon-lit bright pink sign hanging on a striped pink and white wall reads ‘pleasures’ in italics characters.
‘Pleasures (pink flamingo)’ (2022) by Sylvie Fleury © Courtesy the artist/Karma International/Sprüth Magers

Vassell, who brings a work by Uman to the Independent fair (May 9-12), is equally convinced. With Collective Impact, she says, “the investment of each gallery is singular” within a structure designed to foster sharing. Tangible advantages include having access to Hauser & Wirth’s “enormous expertise, attentiveness and global footprint”, while being able to share information in an otherwise very private market, she says.

The rewards can be immediate. At Hauser & Wirth’s exhibition of Uman in London this year, the artist’s average price range had moved up about 10 per cent, to between $90,000 and $135,000, Payot says.

So is it really win-win? There are those sceptical of Hauser & Wirth’s motives. “You could say they are doing some sort of image management because of a reputation for hoovering up plenty of other artists in the past,” says one art adviser. Vassell says that the reaction from her peers has been “everything from absolute ecstasy to cynicism”. Success, she says, rests partly on “enthusiasm for the unconventional nature of the effort”.

Payot underlines that Collective Impact is not about Hauser & Wirth per se and that he would like it to be a blueprint for the industry “to take the whole ecosystem into consideration”.

No other gallery has openly followed their lead, though there is enthusiasm from some smaller players. “I find what Nicola has done very inspiring,” says Rakeb Sile, co-founder of the Lagos and London gallery Addis, which opens a show in New York’s Nada Exhibition Space soon (Threads of Connection, May 8-June 1). “For the bigger galleries,” she adds, “this is a game they have to play, to support rather than cannibalise the industry.”

In an abstract canvas, swathes of purple, black and pink hint at a female profile with bright red lips.
‘Milky phonemes’ (2024) by Emma McIntyre © Courtesy the artist/Chateau Shatto

Olivia Barrett of Château Shatto says such tie-ups can work well even without the formalised split of commission. She cites her recent partnership with David Zwirner gallery for the artist Emma McIntyre, whose new work, “Milky phonemes” (2024), is among those her gallery is bringing to Frieze. “We’ve always had a very transparent conversation [with Zwirner], rather than being two entities jockeying for inventory and relationships,” she says.

Vassell also gives credit to other galleries with which she shares artists in the more traditional way, including Various Small Fires, Corvi-Mora and The Modern Institute. There’s evidence of galleries joining forces at Frieze too, with 10 of its 68 exhibitors sharing booths, including Sprüth Magers and Karma International showing Sylvie Fleury.

This growing collaborative spirit “won’t stop poaching”, says Magnus Resch, an industry expert and the author most recently of How to Collect Art. “Gallerists have historically had difficulty working together,” he says, “because their businesses are owner-driven — they do what they do because they have a strong identity that they like to share with the world.” But he describes himself overall as “a fan” of the thinking behind the Collective Impact arrangement. “The biggest problem in the art world is its lack of new collectors. The more affordable prices [at smaller galleries] bring people in, and the backing of the bigger gallery gives comfort. Some might then get the ‘collector virus’ and convert into major buyers.”

Some flexibility is built in — each Collective Impact deal is set to run for five years, Payot says, after which “perhaps the artist isn’t as important to the smaller gallery, or perhaps they would rather stay with them only, or they might want to keep the structure — five years is a long time in the art market.” Ultimately, Vassell says, in more challenging times, “it’s about finding ways to grow, joining forces with decent people and having a spirit of adventure.”

Heartbeat of Delmarva: Math Teacher and Photographer

Heartbeat of Delmarva: Math Teacher and Photographer
image
...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY REMAINS IN EFFECT UNTIL 4 AM EDT
SATURDAY...

* WHAT...Southeast winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt.

* WHERE...Chesapeake Bay from Drum Point MD to Smith Point VA,
Tidal Potomac from Cobb Island MD to Smith Point VA, and
Tangier Sound and the inland waters surrounding Bloodsworth
Island.

* WHEN...Until 4 AM EDT Saturday.

* IMPACTS...Conditions will be hazardous to small craft.

PRECAUTIONARY/PREPAREDNESS ACTIONS...

Inexperienced mariners, especially those operating smaller
vessels, should avoid navigating in hazardous conditions.

&&

B.C. photographer captures snapshot of rare ‘ghost bird’ magpie

B.C. photographer captures snapshot of rare ‘ghost bird’ magpie

Amanda Nelson says she found herself in the right place at the right time to capture a photo of a rare sight.

While visiting a friend, the photographer took a snapshot of what she believes is a leucistic magpie, often referred to as a ghost bird. Nelson, who lives in the Clinton area in B.C.’s Interior, said the bird had been living on her friend’s property.

With white-coloured chests and grey wings, leucistic magpies stand out from their black-billed brethren. 

“I’ve actually never seen one of these birds before. I’ve seen photos, but this is my first time actually seeing one in person,” Nelson told CBC’s Daybreak Kamloops with Shelley Joyce.

“I was so excited to get my camera and have it ready, but I wasn’t prepared for it to take off like it did, so I only got two photos, but those two photos turned out so I was very excited.”

Daybreak Kamloops2:05:43Thursday: Honda’s EV factory, Dr. Raj on colon cancer, White magpie in Clinton, KAG internment exhibit, Little Shuswap rebuild, Fire practices for wildfire, Crime conference in Kamloops, Toothbrushing tips, Wood pellet debate, Mel Rothenburger steps back.

Thursday April 25, 2024

Nancy Flood, an ornithologist and president of the Kamloops Naturalist Club, said leucistic magpies aren’t to be confused with albino magpies.

“It’s not an albino because it’s not totally white and it doesn’t have pink eyes,” she said.

“Albinism, just like in people, is caused by a genetic mutation and it’s really bad news for the birds. It causes blindness and causes their feathers to be weak, and they don’t last very long … Although [leucism is] very rare, it’s much more common than albinism.”

Flood said leucistic birds are more common in larger cities because there are all kinds of contaminants in urban areas that can cause genetic mutations and damage melanin cells.

A bird flies away from a tree. Its feathers are nearly all white.
With white-coloured chests and grey wings, leucistic magpies stand out from their black-billed brethren. (Submitted by Amanda Nelson)

In 2015, Bird Studies Canada, the country’s national bird conservation organization, named Edmonton, Alta., Canada’s magpie capital due to its growing population.

In some cases, Flood said leucism can have advantages for male birds.

“Sometimes in birds, there’s this thing called the ‘rare male effect,’ where if birds look unusual, for some reason, they’re ‘sexier’ to the ladies,” she said.

Nelson said her interest in photography started in her youth. She only recently got back to the hobby a couple of years ago. She also has a love for birds. It amazes her to watch them, she said. 

“I never thought I’d see one,” she said of the leucistic magpie.

“You never really expect to find something like this. A lot of the time, patience pays off, but sometimes [you’ve] got to be in the right place at the right time.”

Indigenous creativity takes the stage at Native Nations Fashion Night

Indigenous creativity takes the stage at Native Nations Fashion Night

As the fourth annual Native Nations Fashion Night neared, designer Delina White offered MPR News a tip. 

“It’s got a Victorian gothic influence,” said White. 

Models show pieces

Models show pieces by designer Delina White on the runway.

Nicole Neri for MPR News

White is from the Leech Lake Band of Ojibwe and is the creator of the Native Nations Fashion Night. She said in planning for this year’s event that designers wanted to do “something mysterious” to honor shared Native values and beliefs.

The theme for the evening was “Messengers, Protectors & Great Mysteries.”

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Models walk the runway

Models walk the runway during Native Nations Fashion Night at Quincy Hall.

Nicole Neri for MPR News

The event was held at Quincy Hall in northeast Minneapolis and showcased the work of a half dozen designers, welcoming hundreds of guests for a night of Indigenous fashion.

How does a Victorian gothic influence show up in an Indigenous fashion show?  

“A strong basis in romantic, elegant, Victorian gothic using many material textures, colors, embellishments and accessories,” said White. “You can expect to see veils, silk black roses, platform boots and indigenous natural materials including sage, cedar, red-willow, wampum, bone, bull horn and white tail deer sheds.” 

Emcee Grace Goldtooth welcomed hundreds who came out for the evening to celebrate Indigenous design and opportunity.

A model wears deer hooves

A model wears deer hooves as part of a piece by designer Delina White on the runway.

Nicole Neri for MPR News

Christy Ruby is a Tlingit designer from Ketchikan, Alaska, and her collection opened the show. Ruby showed a collection of colored furs she sews using seal and otter skin — materials used by Alaska Natives for countless generations.

To demonstrate the importance of environmental sustainability for Native nations, Ruby took audiences through a short theatrical presentation of subsistence hunting practices.

Model Brady Fairbanks, Leech Lake Band of Ojibwe, walked the runway for Ruby’s collection. He wore a hand-sewn fur vest and gloves made from skins of animals hunted by the designer herself.

“I’m very honored to wear this beautiful vest and gloves,” said Fairbanks. “This is the first time I’ve done anything like this.”

A model on the runway

Brady Fairbanks models a piece by designer Christy Ruby on the runway.

Nicole Neri for MPR News

Model Jada Aljubailah walked one of the looks from the Restorative Apparel Co-design collection wearing a patterned gold lace dress with Ojibwe floral designs, red willow necklace and birch bark earrings. White worked with designers Sage Davis, Elizabeth Bye and Masnoureh Nikookar to create the collection.

Dakota dress maker Rebecca Mousseau, Spirit Lake Dakota, riffed on the evening’s themes around mystery through her use of color, design and ribbons, putting her collection of dresses and skirts on the runway.

Peggy Flanagan shows a piece

Lt. Governor Peggy Flanagan shows a piece by designer Rebecca Mousseau on the runway.

Nicole Neri for MPR News

Lt. Gov. Peggy Flanagan, a citizen of the White Earth Nation, made her debut on the runway as a model wearing a glittering black velvet dress by Rebecca Mousseau.

“I love it,” said Flanagan. “It’s velvet, it’s punk rock and I feel amazing. That’s how I always feel wearing anything she designs.”

Last year, Flanagan, on behalf of Gov. Tim Walz declared April 23 Native Nations Fashion Night. A similar proclamation was made again to celebrate the night this year.

Delina White speaks on the runway

Delina White speaks on the runway while holding a proclamation from Governor Tim Walz.

Nicole Neri for MPR News

Just before she put her collection on the runway, Delina White expressed her gratitude for the proclamation, which highlights the day as an important economic opportunity for Indigenous people working to establish themselves in the fashion industry.

“I am really honored that they recognized me as a businessperson. That part goes unseen,” said White. “I am usually recognized as being an artist and a jingle dress dancer, which I am very, very extremely proud of, but I am also proud of the work I do in bringing in awareness and support and opportunities to our Native creatives, and that’s what tonight does.”

A woman is reflected in a mirror

A woman is reflected in a mirror as artists sell clothing and jewelry during Native Nations Fashion Night at Quincy Hall.

Nicole Neri for MPR News