Art World News

Indigenous art sector’s sales plummet after allegations of interference

Indigenous art sector’s sales plummet after allegations of interference

The Indigenous art sector has experienced an immediate drop in sales after footage surfaced of non-Indigenous staff at a major art centre painting on the canvas of an award-winning Indigenous artist.

video published by The Australian over Easter depicted an art centre worker at Tjala Arts, in South Australia’s far north, appearing to make decisions and painting on Yariltji Young’s painting of the Tjukurpa — the spiritual and sacred law that governs culture.

The centre is part of APY Art Centre Collective (APY ACC), which, in a statement on its website, has “strenuously” denied “the over-arching narrative that APY ACC art and any artists are compromised”.

“To the contrary. We believe our professional studios meet highest standards of integrity and professionalism,” the statement reads in part.

Cecilia Alfonso, manager of Northern Territory-based Aboriginal-owned arts centre Warlukurlangu Artists, said there had been a significant drop in sales since the allegations relating to Tjala Arts surfaced.

“Our sales were immediately negatively impacted by this story breaking,” Ms Alfonso said. 

She said in the weekends preceding Easter, the art centre had sold between $10,000 and $30,000 worth of art.

“The weekend after the story broke, we sold $500,” Ms Alfonso said. 

“And sales haven’t improved.”

She said sales traditionally dropped over the Easter weekend but not to the extent experienced this year.

“Our sales were a fifth of what they were the previous year.”

Ms Alfonso says sales dropped significantly after the allegations surfaced.()

Artists’ livelihoods under pressure

Ms Alfonso said Warlukurlangu Artists, which was established in Yuendumu in 1985, was a signatory to the Desart Art collective based in Alice Springs, which was not involved with APY ACC.

She said Warlukurlangu Artists provided meaningful employment for more than 800 artists across the NT’s Western Desert region.

“People rely on that extra income to buy food and whitegoods and to be able to travel,” she said.

“[The extra income] has a dramatic effect on people’s quality of life.”

Ms Alfonso said she was concerned about the repercussions on the industry and for the art centre she ran.

“Art centres were established to work ethically,” she said.

“And that is part of our marketing.

“If you buy through an art centre you can be guaranteed that the artist who is on the canvas is the person that painted that painting.”

She said she believed the video published provided evidence of interference.

“Those two girls in that video were actually dictating the structure and dictating to the artist what should go on to that canvas,” Ms Alfonso said.

Ripple effect

Art galleries specialising in Indigenous art, and which are not associated with APY ACC, echoed Ms Alfonso’s concerns about provenance and the flow-on effect on the industry.

Euan Hills, who has owned the Hobart gallery Art Mob for two decades, said there was an immediate impact on sales.

Euan Hills is also concerned about the ripple effect on the wider art sector.()

“The video that I’ve seen and listened to is a damning indictment,” he said.

“Our sales dropped considerably.”

Mr Hills said a recent exhibition featuring works by Steven Jupurrurla Nelson went out to more than 6,000 people on their mailing database.

“We had one response to it,” he said.

“Today, we had one sale from a local couple and that is not what I’d expect to have from an exhibition of that category.”

Mr Hills said he held concerns for artists’ livelihoods.

“It also worries me about the questions that have been raised about art in general, as far as Indigenous art goes, about provenance.”

‘Collateral damage’

Sydney-based Nichola Dare, who runs the gallery Aboriginal Contemporary, which is not connected to the APY ACC, said the conversations about ethics in Indigenous art had “ramped up” in recent weeks.

She said consumers were asking if the Indigenous artists she was exhibiting had painted the paintings.

Nichola Dare says she’s worried the broader industry will become collateral damage.()

“So there’s this question of doubt that’s gone into their mind,” Ms Dare said.

“People are cautious and it’s becoming a barrier to buying.”

Ms Dare said the “ripple effect” of the allegations were far reaching.

“I’m concerned that the whole industry becomes collateral damage,” she said.

“It’s having a real economic and financial impact to the communities and the sector.”

Ms Dare said April was always a slow month for her gallery but the allegations came at a time when cost of living pressures were already affecting consumers.

“To then overlay [cost of living] with a issue around provenance, authenticity and ethics within the industry is a double hit,” she said. 

Ms Dare said the public made an assumption the artworks they were buying had been painted by the artist.

“That’s a totally fair and reasonable assumption,” she said.

“So for that to come into question will be a problem for the whole for the industry.”

APY ACC rejects allegations

In the statement on its website, the APY ACC said the allegations of artistic interference were offensive.

“True industry experts understand the line between assistance at artists’ direction and interference with the artistic process and know that APY ACC has never crossed this line,” it reads.

“It is grossly offensive to the many hundreds of proud Anangu who work with APY ACC to suggest otherwise, or that they would tolerate their Tjukurpa being interfered with.”

Philip Watkins, chief executive officer of Desart, the peak arts body for 35 Central Australian Aboriginal art centres, said he was aware of the allegations but would not be making a public statement.

KU Arts, the South Australian equivalent of Desart, declined an interview but released a statement on its website outlining the group’s “serious concerns” about the reports.

KU Arts has pledged to support any Anangu artists who have been affected by the allegations.

Invoking the Divine Feminine, Delita Martin’s Mixed-Media Portraits Embrace Self-Empowerment

Invoking the Divine Feminine, Delita Martin’s Mixed-Media Portraits Embrace Self-Empowerment

“Blue Stars” (2020), relief printing, charcoal, acrylic, liquid gold leaf, decorative papers, hand stitching. All images © Delita Martin, shared with permission

“Duality is the idea that there are two realms within (the) spirit world,” says Delita Martin, “one that is seen and one that is unseen.” This coupling is a grounding force for the artist as she practices an alchemy of spirit and aesthetics, coaxing dynamic figures from a mélange of patterns, materials, and symbols.

Through a vivid body of work titled Conjure, Martin explores what it means to be self-empowered as a Black woman and embrace “the veilscape,” a spirit world in which the unseen, freedom from racism and sexism, transformation, and ancestral connection prevail. The artist refers to this space as an “intangible reality” and returns to it again and again as she overlays her relief-printed portraits with charcoal, acrylic, gold leaf, and threaded details.

 

A mixed-media portrait of a Black woman with colorful patterns all over her body

“Resting Place” (2020), charcoal, acrylic, decorative papers, hand stitching

While this conceptual layer remains throughout all of Martin’s works, her vast use of symbols shifts with each portrait. She might feature a bird mid-flight, as in “Flying (Feather Skirt),” for example, to convey an unrestricted spirit, or a full flock bound to a subject’s shoulders as in “Feathers” to communicate the experience of being tethered to another. Recurring in different forms on garments or backdrops, circles are similarly evocative as they reference the connection between the divine feminine and the moon. Color, too, is emblematic. She shares:

Although I do not subscribe to any particular theory on color, I very much believe that color causes a reaction and can connect with the human spirit. For my own purposes, colors like red and orange carry a fiery energy, and blues are very calming and actually connect more closely to the spirit world in my work than any other color. I tend to favor blues the most in my work. Yellows and golds are what I consider outdoor colors that reference the earth, colors that are closely related to the waking world. Greens I connect with nature and growth. Purples/burgundy I associate with mystery and time.

Washes of acrylic or fragments of colorful patterns blur the distinction between body and surroundings, emphasizing the co-existence of the physical and spiritual worlds and reminding the viewer that part of the self always remains invisible and hidden behind the veil.

Martin, who is based in Huffman, Texas, and represented by Galerie Myrtis, will have new portraits on view this month at Tiwani Contemporary in London and is teaching a printmaking course in Salzburg this July. Find more of Conjure and other works on her site and Instagram.

 

Two mixed-media portraits of Black women with colorful patterns all over their bodies

Left: “Woman Sitting (Golden Stool)” (2020), relief printing, charcoal, acrylic, decorative papers, hand stitching. Right: “Claiming What Has Risen” (2020), relief printing, charcoal, fabric, decorative papers, hand stitching, acrylic

A mixed-media portrait of a Black woman with colorful patterns all over her body and birds on her shoulders

“Feathers” (2020), charcoal, acrylic, relief printing, decorative papers, liquid silver leaf, hand stitching

A mixed-media portrait of a Black woman with colorful patterns all over her body and birds flying nearby

“Flying (Feather Skirt)” (2020), relief printing, charcoal, acrylic, fabric, decorative papers, hand stitching

Two mixed-media portraits of Black women with colorful patterns all over their bodies

Left: “Offerings” (2020), relief printing, charcoal, decorative papers, hand stitching, acrylic, liquid gold leaf. Right: “Mirrors and Sky” (2020), relief printing, charcoal, acrylic, decorative papers, hand stitching

A mixed-media portrait of a Black woman with colorful patterns all over her body

“The Moon Now Rises” (2020), relief printing, charcoal, acrylic, decorative papers, hand stitching

A hand pulls a needle through paper depicting a bird

Martin at work in her studio in Huffman, Texas

Do stories and artists like this matter to you? Become a Colossal Member today and support independent arts publishing for as little as $5 per month. The article Invoking the Divine Feminine, Delita Martin’s Mixed-Media Portraits Embrace Self-Empowerment appeared first on Colossal.

College of Arts and Architecture announces spring 2023 student marshals

College of Arts and Architecture announces spring 2023 student marshals

UNIVERSITY PARK, Pa. — As part of Penn State’s spring 2023 commencement activities, nine students will represent the College of Arts and Architecture as student marshals based on outstanding academic achievement and contributions at Penn State.   

The College of Arts and Architecture’s commencement ceremony will take place at 1 p.m. on May 6 in Eisenhower Auditorium and will be livestreamed. Penn State Architecture alumnus and Nike Inc. Chief Design Officer John Hoke will serve as commencement speaker.

College marshal

Bryan Manzano, Glen Mills, Pennsylvania

Bachelor of Musical Arts, Bachelor of Science in Biology (Eberly College of Science marshal)

Manzano, the son of Patrick and Nancy Manzano, has had a rewarding interdisciplinary undergraduate experience studying both music performance and biology. He is a proud member of the Penn State horn studio under Sarah Schouten, assistant professor, and previously Lisa Bontrager, professor emerita. He wrote his thesis on coral reef biology as a member of the Baums lab in the Eberly College of Science. Manzano has been a member of the Penn State Symphonic Wind Ensemble and Philharmonic Orchestra, and he had the opportunity to perform in prestigious venues such as Carnegie Hall in New York City and Heinz Hall in Pittsburgh. He also has performed in both the Nittany Valley Symphony and Pennsylvania Chamber Orchestra. In the future, he plans to pursue graduate study in biology while continuing to perform as a freelance musician. 

Department of Architecture 

Katherine F. McRury, Baltimore, Maryland

Bachelor of Architecture, Architectural History Minor 

A Schreyer Scholar, McRury has sought out a multidiscipline approach to design through history, sustainability, art and storytelling. She is a two-year alumna of Alpha, the Science Fiction, Fantasy and Horror Workshop for Young Writers, and one of her short stories was published in the “Triangulation: Dark Skies” anthology in 2019. She is a member of the Phi Beta Kappa Society, the recipient of the 2022 Golumbic Scholarship for Humanistic Achievement, and an Erickson Discovery Grant awardee. The grant supported her research into place-sustaining architecture, which she continued in her thesis on the next evolution of the library typology as a third place and center for anonymous wisdom. After graduating, she will enter professional architectural practice in Baltimore and eventually pursue a master’s degree.  

Department of Art History 

Abby Mikalauskas, New Hope, Pennsylvania

Bachelor of Arts in Art History, Bachelor of Arts in Anthropology, Bachelor of Science in French and Francophone Studies (program marshal), Minor in Classics and Ancient Mediterranean Studies, Minor in Global and International Studies 

During her time at Penn State, Mikalauskas has been involved in many extracurricular activities, although she is most proud of her involvement with THON, through AXIS and most recently as a Rules and Regulations Committee member. Mikalauskas also values her time spent working at the Matson Museum of Anthropology. She studied abroad during her junior year, in Montpellier, France, in the fall semester and in Florence, Italy, in the spring semester. After graduating, Mikalauskas plans to pursue her master’s degree at the University of Oklahoma, and eventually a doctorate in art history, with the hopes of specializing in contact period Indigenous art of North America and the subsequent relationship between the Indigenous and various European influences, namely the French. 

Department of Graphic Design 

Taylor Kuszyk, Sassamansville, Pennsylvania

Bachelor of Design in Graphic Design 

Kuszyk approached her four years at Penn State with passion, focus, creativity and a healthy sense of humor. During her time as a graphic design major, Kuszyk was involved in Valley Magazine, TedXPSU and Movin’ On, and she was the treasurer for the Design Association. A recipient of the Arts and Architecture Alumni Society Scholarship, she also is a winner of multiple awards from the University and College Designers Association (UCDA), FLUX Magazine and Graphis. Kuszyk interned at Canopy in New York City and was a freelance designer with Dearest Creative. While at Penn State, she sang in the Concert Choir and was a member of the Pickleball Club. Kuszyk is currently working part time as a junior graphic designer for Wayfair and will shift to a full-time position with the company after graduation.  

Integrative Arts Program 

Rachel Pratola, Kennett Square, Pennsylvania

Bachelor of Arts in Integrative Arts 

Pratola began her undergraduate journey as an undecided major in the Division of Undergraduate Studies. She soon realized she wanted to broaden her creative studies and transitioned into the College of Arts and Architecture as a bachelor of fine arts pre-major. After taking many arts marketing and publicity classes, Pratola shifted her focus and changed to the integrative arts major. She completed a communications internship with the College of Arts and Architecture in spring 2022, where she found a passion for digital marketing. In fall 2022, Pratola studied abroad at the University of Sydney in Sydney, New South Wales, Australia. After graduation, Pratola plans to return to Sydney to begin her professional career in digital marketing and communications.

Department of Landscape Architecture 

Maeve Fogarty, Bethlehem, Pennsylvania

Bachelor of Landscape Architecture 

Over the last four years, Fogarty has served many roles within the College of Arts and Architecture, including sustainability leadership officer of the Arts and Architecture Student Council, Arts Ambassador, and president of the Landscape Architecture Student Society. A highlight of Fogarty’s time at Penn State was serving as teaching assistant for the first-year landscape architecture design studio and the third-year planting methods course. She has studied abroad in Barcelona, Spain, and Bonn, Germany, where she gained knowledge in European landscape architecture and grew a deep appreciation for new cultures and traveling. After graduation, Fogarty will attend the University of Pennsylvania to pursue her master’s degree in landscape architecture.  

School of Music 

Brody Segan, Allentown, Pennsylvania

Bachelor of Music, Minor in Jazz Performance 

There is nothing about music that does not interest Segan. Whether that be performing, writing, recording or film scores, Segan spent the last four years learning as much as he could about the aural art form. He has played trombone in various styles, from classical to jazz to rock and everything in between. He also is an active writer, having composed/arranged for jazz ensembles, trombone choir, film soundtracks and more. A member of Phi Mu Alpha Sinfonia, Segan also has served as the president of the Trombone Studio and the treasurer of the Jazz Educators Club, where he helped coordinate two of Penn State’s annual jazz festivals. After graduation, Segan will attend the Frost School of Music at the University of Miami to pursue a master’s degree in jazz pedagogy.  

School of Theatre 

Nina Gold, Bala Cynwyd, Pennsylvania

Bachelor of Fine Arts in Acting 

During her four years at Penn State, Gold participated in eight productions with the School of Theatre, serving as a performer, director, writer and assistant dialect coach. Through these shows, she discovered her love of classical text, voice work, and accents/dialects, all of which she plans to incorporate into her career as an actor. In addition to her studies as an acting major, Gold focused heavily on sustainability and visual arts, expanding her knowledge of what she can do to better our world and herself. Outside of her classes, she explored comedy writing and will direct her original short film based on her experiences with mental health shortly after graduation. She plans to move back to Philadelphia and begin pursuing work as an actor in both film and stage.   

School of Visual Arts 

Gita Passi, New Columbia, Pennsylvania

Bachelor of Design in Digital Arts and Media Design, Minor in Photography 

A Schreyer Scholar, Passi channeled her lifelong love for art into her studies in the College of Arts and Architecture. For almost two years, she has been a graphic design intern with the Bellisario College of Communications’ Strategic Communications team. Earlier in her undergraduate experience, she contributed to the creation of the Happy Valley Animation Festival as a member of the Animation Club. She also has served as an Arts Ambassador and welcomed incoming first-year students as part of the College of Arts and Architecture buddy program. Passi has been a member of the Digital Media Group, including a term as president. Most recently, she spent two semesters as an account associate for Happy Valley Communications. After graduation, she plans to pursue a career in multimedia in New York City, specializing in photography and videography. 

New exhibit at Memphis Zoo highlights artwork from St. Jude patients

New exhibit at Memphis Zoo highlights artwork from St. Jude patients

MEMPHIS, Tenn. (WMC) – The Memphis Zoo is partnering with St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital to create a new exhibit.

Starting Wednesday, the zoo will display “Artists and Animals” between the entrance and exit of the China exhibit.

The art will feature animals that currently call the Memphis Zoo home.

The art, made by patients at St. Jude, is apart of art therapy, designed to help patients suffering from cancer or other life-threatening illnesses to inspire hope and their spirit.

”We’re really excited about working with St. Jude on this initiative,” Memphis Zoo Chief Marketing Officer Nick Harmeier said. “It’s something we’re really, really passionate about and of course anytime we can bring children and art together, and animals at the same time, it’s just a really unique opportunity for us to place these artworks throughout our zoo.”

The display will stay up for the foreseeable future, allowing visitors to view and appreciate the work the patients put in to the art work.

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Graphic design students unveil mural honoring former Stillwater mayor

Graphic design students unveil mural honoring former Stillwater mayor

Thursday, May 4, 2023

Media Contact:
Elizabeth Gosney | CAS Marketing and Communications Manager | 405-744-7497 | egosney@okstate.edu

A semester’s worth of work was put on display in Stillwater’s Chris Salmon Plaza on
May 1, with the unveiling of Oklahoma State University graphic design students’ mural
“Building Sunshine.” 

The mural — which highlights the life and work of former Stillwater mayor Christine
Salmon — was designed by OSU freshman Carlee Roddy. Roddy worked with her fellow Visual
Thinking Image and Surface 2D classmates to execute the design. 

“It would have been a lot more boring without my classmates to help me both in the
beginning when it came to brainstorming ideas and during the last days of painting,”
said Roddy, who hails from Collinsville, Oklahoma.  

During the unveiling presided over by current Stillwater mayor Will Joyce, Roddy explained
elements of her abstract design that were meant to represent Salmon’s architectural
and interior design career, as well as her accessibility advocacy work.  

“I struggled with how to depict Chris’ passion for supporting communities with disabilities,
but I’m really happy with the way it turned out,” Roddy said, specifically pointing
out shapes on the right side of the mural that represent a deconstructed wheelchair.
“I want people to look at the mural and get to know Chris through it. Not just that
she was a mayor, but her bright personality that she poured into her work and eventually
into Stillwater as a whole.” 

Kate Kinder, a Department of Art, Graphic Design and Art History teaching assistant professor, began the mural project with her classes after being
approached by the Prairie Arts Center and the City of Stillwater. Kinder’s students submitted 54 designs for consideration,
which were narrowed down through rounds of voting by the students, Prairie Arts Center
staff and City of Stillwater employees.  

“I was surprised with how many different approaches to the project there were,” Kinder
said. “We have a lot of students with different backgrounds, so it was inspiring to
see them inject their own perspectives into the work.”  

The final design was drawn out onto four large pieces of parachute cloth and completed
with weather-proof outdoor paint. The morning of the mural unveiling, the pieces were
adhered to the brick wall on the corner of Ninth Avenue and Main Street where it will
remain on view to the public semi-permanently. 

“I have the utmost confidence that even if the audience can’t understand each little
detail of the work, they will enjoy it for its color and specificity to Stillwater,”
Kinder said. “I hope Stillwater can appreciate the hard work my students put into
the design and execution, as well as the unique dedication and skill it takes to create
something like this. 

“With abstract art, the secret is not to be intimidated by not knowing what it means,
and allowing yourself to enjoy it for what you see in it. Art is meant to be interpreted,
so that means there’s no real wrong reading of it.” 

In the Digital Age, Wedding Film Photography Has a Resurgence

In the Digital Age, Wedding Film Photography Has a Resurgence
image

Across the country, more couples are seeking out film photographers to shoot their weddings.

Taylor Dafoe and Alex Schulte’s relationship has always included film photography. It was the catalyst for their relationship: after leaving his rangefinder film camera at Ms. Schulte’s house during a party in 2015, Mr. Dafoe went back a few days later to pick it up. They ended up going on a first date that weekend.

It was also part of how they got engaged. In June 2022, Mr. Dafoe, now 32, who works as a news and features writer at the art marketing website Artnet, decorated the back yard of their home outside Troy, N.Y., with film photos he had taken during their relationship. He proposed by handing Ms. Schulte, now 32, who works in marketing at Donut, a workplace software company, the same film camera he had left at her house when they first met. The engagement ring came months later.

So when it came time for them to choose a photographer for their September 2023 wedding at June Farms in West Sand Lake, N.Y., it was no surprise that they opted for Autumn Jordan, who is based in Athens, N.Y., and often shoots weddings on film. “That was part of the appeal, for sure,” Mr. Dafoe said.

In recent years, more and more couples are seeking out photographers who can shoot film photos for their weddings. The look of the photos, often a bit softer and grainier than digital ones, and the slower, more analog process are appealing to many couples who are craving a nostalgic medium. This means that photographers and couples can’t look at the photos until they’ve been developed days or weeks after the wedding.

Ms. Schulte and Mr. Dafoe welcome the limitations of shooting a wedding on film. They shared that the process has even begun to influence how they think about their wedding day in general.

Anna Urban, a wedding photographer based in Edinburgh, Scotland, photographed a couple on a hill in Edinburgh using a Nikon F80 camera and Kodak Ultramax 400 film.Anna Urban Wedding Photography

“We were thinking about trying to do away with some of the preciousness that comes with weddings,” Mr. Dafoe said. Because of the restrictions of film, they would get fewer photographs in the end and have fewer opportunities to reshoot moments. “We want the event to kind of revel in its own ephemerality,” he said. “And choosing to shoot on film, that’s like a big part of that thinking — because of the material and financial limitations of film.”

Anna Urban, a wedding photographer based in Edinburgh, Scotland, has noticed an increase in couples seeking out film photographers over the past year. Though she still primarily uses digital cameras, in September 2022 she started offering film photography to her clients because of the rise in demand. She charges about 100 pounds per film roll, or around $125. About 5 percent of her wedding clients are choosing to add film to their wedding packages, she said.

“People are looking for something different,” Ms. Urban said.“The whole process is different. You don’t see the effect until you have them scanned, developed. It’s like part of the magic, waiting for the photos.”

Ms. Hampson shot this photo with a Pentax KM camera and Kodak Portra 400 film.Kate Hampson
Ms. Hampson caught a couple having an intimate moment under an arch using an Olympus Mju camera and Kodak Portra 400 film.Kate Hampson

Kate Hampson, a photographer based in London, began shooting entire weddings on film in May 2022 because it aligned more closely with her personal interests. Although she would typically bring her film camera to weddings, she spent the first few years of her wedding photography career shooting primarily in digital.

However, she was never completely happy with the results.

“I wasn’t getting inspired by digital,” Ms. Hampson said. “So eventually I started saying, Would you mind if I shoot maybe half film, half digital?” Before long, she made the jump to shooting exclusively with film. She typically brings a digital camera to weddings as a backup, but rarely uses it. One of the last times she shot a wedding with a digital camera, in June 2022, it happened to be 118 degrees outside and the camera shut off because of the heat, she said.

“Thank God for film,” Ms. Hampson said with a laugh.

Jen Huang Bogan, a wedding photographer in Montecito, Calif., shot this couple in St. Barts using a Contax 645 medium format camera and FUJICOLOR PRO 400H film.Jen Huang Bogan

Jen Huang Bogan, a wedding photographer in Montecito, Calif., said that the more weddings she shot, the more she began to realize that film was the medium she wanted to work in.

“It wasn’t until shooting weddings where I was like, OK, there’s a striking difference between digital and film,” Ms. Bogan said.“The look of film just vastly outperformed digital.”

Couples are typically drawn to her work, Ms. Bogan said, because they are looking for classic, timeless photos, which she feels film is best suited for because it tends to not look tied to a specific time period. She compares shooting in film to painting with oil: It’s the medium that she believes produces the best artistic photographs and gives couples the opportunity to slow down.

“It really works for weddings and portraiture because it is so natural and also so flattering,” she said.

“It’s very rare for me to see a digital image that moves me in the way that film does,” said Jillian Mitchell, a wedding photographer in San Francisco, Mexico. She photographed this couple using a modified Panoramic Holga camera and Kodak Tri-X film.Jillian Mitchell

Jillian Mitchell, a wedding photographer in San Francisco, Mexico, who works mainly in New York and Los Angeles, shoots a majority of her weddings on film. She started working as a wedding photographer in 2009, shooting entirely on digital cameras. She had used film in her personal work, though, and quickly found herself gravitating back toward the medium as she became more involved in wedding photography.

Although she now shoots primarily film photos, she doesn’t restrict herself. “I do think that digital has a place,” Ms. Mitchell said. She tends to pull out her digital camera when shooting in low-lit areas, like when she’s capturing candid moments on the dance floor. Even so, she said, “it’s very rare for me to see a digital image that moves me in the way that film does.”

There are some photographers who want to recreate the look of film photos in a digital format. One of them is Jose Villa, a wedding photographer in Solvang, Calif., who has shot exclusively on film for most of his 20-year career.

“Weddings are a living, breathing thing,” he said. He aims to capture photographs without interrupting the cadence of a wedding, which often means that he is photographing moments where he has less control than if he were photographing in a studio.

“We adjust to those situations, and also still keep our cool, and use the equipment that makes it so that we can do that,” he said. “Film can be a lot more forgiving.”

Jose Villa photographed Samira Wiley and Lauren Morelli using a Contax 645 film camera and Fuji 400H film.Jose Villa
“Weddings are a living, breathing thing,” said Mr. Villa, who shot this image on a Contax 645 camera and Ilford DELTA 3200 film.Jose Villa

Although he still loves shooting in film, over the past few years Mr. Villa has begun taking photos with digital cameras, especially as he works with celebrity clients who post pictures on social media just hours after a wedding.

“Film was really popular, you know, 20 years ago, and then it went away,” Mr. Villa said. “People were talking about it less when digital started becoming better.” Although he believes that some digital photos can be edited to recreate the look of film photos, he also welcomes the resurgence of film photography at weddings.

“I think that it is amazing for these photographers to continue to shoot with film,” he said, “and continue to keep it alive.”

‘A World History of Women Photographers’ Unearths Hundreds of Images that Enrich the Canon

‘A World History of Women Photographers’ Unearths Hundreds of Images that Enrich the Canon

Graciela Iturbide, Our Lady of the Iguanas, Juchitán de Zaragoza, Oaxaca, Mexico, 1979. Image © Graciela Iturbide. All images courtesy of Thames & Hudson, shared with permission

Photography is often touted as one of the most accessible and democratic mediums, making it a prime choice for those with little institutional support or access to funding. A new book edited by Luce Lebart and Marie Robert and published by Thames & Hudson explores the work of more than 300 women, many of whom were underrecognized during their lifetimes, and all of whose practices centered around the camera.

Recently translated from French by Ruth Taylor and Bethany Wright, the hefty A World History of Women Photographers is a corrective encyclopedia highlighting those with outsized impacts on the medium. The 504-page book pairs hundreds of images with text by an international roster of 160 women writers, granting similar space to each photographer and unearthing a chronically undervalued group. “With this collection of artists, it is not so much a matter of producing a counter-narrative or of deconstructing histories that already exist but of completing them. We have no desire to burn idols or topple statues, only to erect new ones, and to create a narrative that is richer and more fair,” the editors write in the introduction. “In other words, there is an urgent need to write another history, and to write it differently.”

 

A woman and two dogs stand at the top of a pink outdoor staircase

Pamela Singh, Tantric Self-Portrait in Jaipur #18, c. 2000–2001. Image © Pamela Singh, courtesy of the artist and sepiaEYE, New York

Included in the chronologically organized text that spans from 1850 to today are luminaries like Carrie Mae Weems and Zanelle Muholi (previously), in addition to those who have only recently come into public view. The Argentine photographer Josefina Oliver (b. 1875) was largely unknown until her great-niece unearthed her archives in 2006, for example, and that same year, Karimeh Abbud (b. 1863), the first woman to establish a studio in Palestine in the early 20th century, was recognized for her distinct portraiture style in the first major exhibition of her work. “This ‘world tour’ enables us to re-evaluate some women who were celebrated and acknowledged in their own time, to remember others now unjustly forgotten, and to discover others whose work was never exhibited or discussed during their lifetime,” the editors say.

A World History of Women Photographers, created as part of the Rencontres d’Arles and Kering’s Women in Motion project, is currently available on Bookshop. (via Hyperallergic)

 

A leaf sprouts form a spindly root with several offshoots

Anna Atkins, Alaria esculenta, from Photographs of British Algae: Cyanotype Impressions, 1849–1850. Image © The New York Public Library 

A shirtless man and a woman embrace

Sandra Eleta, Putulungo and Alma, Portobelo couple, 1977. Image © Sandra Eleta. Courtesy Galerie Rouge, Paris

three women on the bank of a body of water, one seated and two standing

Sigriður Zoëga, Women on the Banks of the Lake, 1915. Image © The National Museum of Iceland, Reykjavik

A woman stands in front of the remaining rubble of a building, her dress blowing in the wind

Isabel Muñoz, Untitled, from the series ‘Bam,’ 2005. Image © Isabel Muñoz

A man and son sit at a dining table filled with empty plates and two serving dishes

Rita Ostrovska, My husband Alik with our son Sasha, Bila Tserkva, Ukraine, 1988. Image © Rita Ostrovska

A person glowing with light walks across rubble

Victoria Ivleva, Dosimetrist Yuri Kobsar climbs radioactive debris inside the fourth reactor at the Chernobyl nuclear power plant, 1991. Image © Victoria Ivleva

Do stories and artists like this matter to you? Become a Colossal Member today and support independent arts publishing for as little as $5 per month. The article ‘A World History of Women Photographers’ Unearths Hundreds of Images that Enrich the Canon appeared first on Colossal.

The Met Walks a Fine Line on Lagerfeld: Judge the Clothes, Not the Man

The Met Walks a Fine Line on Lagerfeld: Judge the Clothes, Not the Man

“The Line of Beauty” focuses on dualities in the dazzling work of the legendary designer, but it is coy about the controversies.

I admit: I never entirely drank the Karl Lagerfeld Kool-Aid. I was not one of those critics (and there were some) who would clutch their breast, shriek “genius!” and swoon after every show.

I often felt that for every extraordinary piece the designer created for Chanel or Fendi — by the time I started in fashion, his career at Chloé was at an end — there would be another clunker of a dress or a suit: unflattering, frumpy, kind of awkward. I found the set-building he did for his Chanel shows in the latter years (the supermarkets, rocket ships, and icebergs in the Grand Palais) not just a smart social media move (which it was) but too often an egregious display of a bottomless budget and sleight of hand to distract from what was on the runway. Sure, that tweed sweatsuit made that model look like a Real Housewife — but everyone was looking at the double-C branded pasta on the faux megamart shelf instead!

Once I got spoken to by the Chanel press office for not fully “understanding” Lagerfeld’s vision. But as I wrote in the designer’s obituary (he died in 2019), while he unquestionably changed the business of the industry — its marketing, its branding, its very structure — thanks to his ability to take on a heritage house like Chanel and reinvent it with the detritus of its own codes, I didn’t think he really changed wardrobes. He didn’t give the world a new silhouette, or an expression of identity, the way Coco Chanel herself did, with the bouclé suit, or Christian Dior, with the New Look, or Saint Laurent, with Le Smoking, the tuxedo suit for women.

All of which is to say that when I heard the Metropolitan Museum of Art would be dedicating its 2023 Costume Institute to Lagerfeld, I had a mixed reaction. On one hand it made sense: in a 65-year career, which included 26 years at Chanel, 54 at Fendi, 25 at Chloé (in two separate stints), and 35 at his own brand (for years he juggled multiple jobs at the same time), plus stints at Patou and Balmain (phew), the man loomed like a colossus over the modern fashion landscape. On the other hand, the show raised a lot of questions.

Fendi fur coat designed by Karl Lagerfeld, 2012-2013, with polychrome dyed mink, fox, Kidassia goat.Landon Nordeman for The New York Times

The bar is very high for one-person exhibitions — usually defined by names that changed the vocabulary of dress. There have only been 10 of them at the Met in the last 50 years, including Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen and most recently, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons. Generally, the Costume Institute has focused on thematic displays, like last year’s show on American fashion, or 2019’s “Camp.” And even beyond the questions of Lagerfeld’s actual products, there were the issues of his public statements, a number of which were fatphobic, Islamophobic, racist, and sexist, deriding everyone from Angela Merkel, the former Chancellor of Germany, to the singer Adele.

Should he really be put on a museum pedestal, his art (if that is what it was) separated from his self?

Karl Lagerfeld with his close friend Anna Wintour, the editor of Vogue and current mastermind behind the gala that supports the Costume Institute, in 2014.Amy Lombard for The New York Times

An answer of sorts can now be found in “Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty,” which opens May 5 in the museum’s Tisch Galleries. It is a tightly edited, highly enjoyable, ultimately convincing argument from the Costume Institute’s curator in charge, Andrew Bolton, that when you strip away the controversies and the mythology, what you are left with is a pure expression of a great technical imagination combined with an omnivorous cultural curiosity. The advantage of 65 years of work that produced over 10,000 pieces of clothing (at least that’s the number Bolton said he perused for the show) is that in distilling them down to just over 200 garments, Bolton is free to focus on the most evocative pieces. And they are almost all, indeed, dazzling.

But the exhibition also fails entirely, and deliberately, to address the complications of the man. Bolton admits as much in the introduction to the exhibition’s catalog: “We did not want to emphasize ‘Lagerfeld the man,’” he writes, but rather “Lagerfeld the designer”; to find the connective tissue in a 65-year career that could often seem profligate in the extreme: flitting here, there and everywhere; reluctant to commit. In an interview this week, the curator elaborated on his stance, saying he wanted to leave the judgments on character to historians and biographers. And yet Lagerfeld the man is also the ghost in the machine of the show: impossible to ignore.

Karl Lagerfeld ensemble, 2009, showing a shirt of white cotton poplin; shirt of black silk taffeta, and a handbag of black and white mesh with a photograph of Lagerfeld’s face.Landon Nordeman for The New York Times

Indeed, the concept around which the exhibition itself is built — a narrative of dualities — implies the paradox at the heart of the Lagerfeld story: He was a man who loved, and made, beautiful things while sometimes blithely giving voice to ugliness.

If not officially a retrospective — Lagerfeld famously hated them, saying no one wanted to “look at a bunch of old dresses” — the show is more like an essay in clothes, based on an organizing principle derived from the 18th-century artist and writer William Hogarth’s 1753 book “The Analysis of Beauty,” with the author’s beloved Serpentine curve, or “line of beauty,” which signified liveliness and variety, juxtaposed against the straight line, which Lagerfeld also prized, as the dueling forces in his aesthetic. (“The Line of Beauty” is also, as it happens, a 2004 Booker Prize-winning novel by the British writer Alan Hollinghurst about gay life, class and politics in Thatcherite Britain, but though Bolton acknowledged that he loved the book, he said it had nothing to do with the exhibition.)

From there the lines and dualities proliferate in nine different groupings: the masculine/feminine lines giving way to the romantic/military influences, which give way to the rococo/classical, which in turn lead to the historical/futuristic and so on and on. There are so many lines they can be hard to follow; Bolton has a tendency to over-egg his theses, perhaps to justify fashion’s place in the museum. In the end you can ignore them all, and enjoy the show purely as a visual feast.

Gallery representing the Figurative Line/Abstract Line duality, with a trio of Fendi dresses (2016/17) on the lower level inspired by the Danish fairy tale illustrator Kay Nielsen, and Chloe looks from the late 1960s and early 1970s above, inspired by the English illustrator Aubrey Beardsley.Landon Nordeman for The New York Times

The line conceit proves most useful in providing a template for the show’s designer, the architect Tadao Ando (who was once commissioned to create a house for Lagerfeld that was never built). The space is composed of multiple galleries that undulate and curve around on themselves with little openings through which other galleries can be glimpsed — to allow peeks forward into the future, or back to the past. The effect is slightly disorienting in a good way, making it easy to lose oneself in the fields of Lagerfeldiana.

And what fields they are. Two little tweed Chanel lunching suits seem to vaporize into mist at the hems. An egg-shaped Fendi coat is composed of thousands of tiny brightly colored mink mosaic tiles, like a pointillist painting; another, strafed by overlapping shades made of layers of scrunched-up tulle that only look like fur. Lagerfeld could see possibilities in material that seemed otherwise inconceivable; he minted sequins out of concrete, and wood.

A trio of Chanel looks: (from left) the “evaporating hem” couture suit, 2003; tiered skirt (2002-2003); couture wedding sequin tunic and three-dimensional floral skirt, 2015.Landon Nordeman for The New York Times

There are Chloé dresses in Sonia Delaunay-esque prints and trompe l’oeil Grecian drapes. A Chanel frock coat is cut away not at the front but at the back, to expose frothing iridescent tiers. There are almost no logos in sight (a fun game is: guess which look goes with which brand; all four of his main employers were show sponsors), just as there is little of the kitschy play with brand iconography that helped make Chanel a part of pop culture — the double C boxing gloves, and bikinis — and that has been widely imitated at other brands. But there are cumulus clouds of feathers and blossoming rosettes made of lace and gleaming sequin armor that romp across centuries and salons.

Lagerfeld dress for Chanel, 1997, left, overlaid with a horsehair lace, and Fendi, 2017, right, with flowers of white shaved mink.Landon Nordeman for The New York Times

Through it all, one shape appears again and again: the jacket pinched just a bit at the spine, so the shoulder blades roll up and back, raising the arm hole just so, with the line curving down over the waist. Bolton calls this the “Schlemmer shape,” after an Oskar Schlemmer painting, “Bauhaus Stairway” from 1932 (the period between the wars in Germany having been one of Lagerfeld’s gravitational poles).

Chanel haute couture jacket of black brushed wool and Lurex twill, plus a signature camellia brooch, 2003-4.Landon Nordeman for The New York Times
The designer’s sketches for a Fendi coat, to which were often turned over to his “premières” to realize.Landon Nordeman for The New York Times

Ditto the sketches that were Lagerfeld’s primary means of communication, and are displayed with garments as their origin story. The designer would hand these drawings, which were conceived in the round (he thought not just from the front, but from the back) to the heads of his ateliers, to be “read” like their own private language. Just how that worked is enlivened by a group of absorbing videos created by the documentary filmmaker Loïc Prigent that are interviews with those premières d’atelier — the people who translated the designer’s sketches — about their work with Lagerfeld. They exude humanity, affection and pride.

As it happens, the videos are shown in the exhibition’s first gallery. You reach them after an entrance antechamber with another video, this one a close-up of Lagerfeld’s hands sketching a dress, along one wall; at the end of the room, like a punctuation mark, is a reconstruction of Lagerfeld’s Chanel desk, piled high with books and papers (each element chosen by Bolton to represent the breadth of Lagerfeld’s various obsessions, from Aubrey Beardsley to Diet Coke). Next to the desk is a pair of the designer’s black shoes, sitting empty on the floor. This opening video and desk mirror the exhibition’s close: another video of Lagerfeld’s hands, sketching — this time not dresses, but himself. Catty-corner to that visual are a set of vitrines displaying the designer’s signature accessories: the fingerless black leather gloves, black shades and fan, that were the artifacts of the character he constructed for himself. Or “caricature,” as he called it.

A table by Martin Szekely that Lagerfeld used as a desk in his Chanel office, at “A Line of Beauty.”Landon Nordeman for The New York Times
Landon Nordeman for The New York Times
Landon Nordeman for The New York Times

Just before that, however, is a small ellipse of a room lined with 80 iPhones plus one at the center, all loaded with the same video of Lagerfeld laughing, as well as some of his most famous quotes: “I have one instinct that is stronger than all others: the survival instinct”; “I always say what I think, and sometimes even what I don’t.” None of the bad ones, of course, though the latter statement seems particularly telling.

It’s a lost opportunity. Because by choosing to sandwich the clothes between representations of the man, the show actually suggests you can’t separate that man, in all his messy, uncomfortable reality, from the alchemy of his art — and you shouldn’t. That mess and discomfort is part of the mix; it’s part of the legacy, as it is for many of our most formative figures. If the Met can’t encourage that public conversation, what institution can?

Lagerfeld once said, in a quote that is inscribed over the entrance to the show, “Fashion does not belong in a museum.” This exhibition makes a glorious case that the clothes he made really do. But so, too, do the complications, and the tension.


Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty

May 5 through July 16, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1000 Fifth Avenue, Manhattan; 212-535-7710; metmuseum.org.

Hyundai’s “Choose Yours” Marketing Campaign Unveils The All-New, All-Electric IONIQ 6 and IONIQ 5, While Featuring A Black Love Story

Hyundai’s “Choose Yours” Marketing Campaign Unveils The All-New, All-Electric IONIQ 6 and IONIQ 5, While Featuring A Black Love Story

FOUNTAIN VALLEY, Calif., May 4, 2023 /PRNewswire/ — Hyundai Motor America and its African American marketing agency of record, Culture Brands, launched their new multicultural campaign featuring the all-electric vehicle models, IONIQ 5 and IONIQ 6. The latest addition to the popular OKAY Hyundai series, the new campaign, titled “Choose Yours”, spotlights the vehicles’ emotional design, versatility and individualized electrified experiences.

Designed to strengthen the connection between Hyundai and the African American community through the embedding of cultural references and nuances in the creative messaging, the OKAY Hyundai marketing theme was first launched in Fall 2021. Bringing the same approach, “Choose Yours”, which cleverly references the viral “pick the paper” TikTok challenge, taps a real couple to experience the convenience, accessibility and joy of electrification.

Hyundai “Choose Yours” African American Interactive Ad 

“Thriving in a technology-fueled world makes personal, emotional, and authentic storytelling an even more important tool for connecting with customers in a real way,” said Angela Zepeda, CMO, Hyundai Motor America. “Spotlighting Hyundai’s smart mobility vision delivers a differentiated experience through electrification, the ‘Choose Yours’ campaign highlights how the IONIQ 5 and IONIQ 6 are a seamless fit into our couples date night and lifestyle.”

“While we continue our exploration to innovate and exceed customer expectations in a fast-growing EV market, we want to build a culture where we connect with people on their own terms and in relevant ways,” said Erik Thomas, director of experiential marketing, Hyundai Motor America. “In our latest extension of the Okay Hyundai theme, our goal is for the viewer to see Hyundai as progressive, sophisticated and streamlined, just like our real-life couple.”

The “Choose Yours” campaign was developed by Culture Brands under the leadership of Eunique Jones Gibson, founder and chief creative officer. Both spots demonstrate the versatility of Hyundai’s electric vehicles and give viewers an opportunity to experience the lifestyle that each vehicle unlocks. For the spot, the agency partnered with six-time Cannes Lions award-winning director, Rohan Blair-Mangat, who is known for his rich storytelling and emotive visuals.

“We chose to work with a real couple to punctuate how the IONIQ vehicles authentically compliment the beauty in our customers’ varied lifestyles.” said Eunique Jones Gibson. “These spots show how the vehicles seamlessly fit into a modern-day love story in a sustainable and adaptable way, which is an investment as long-standing as true love.”

The 2023 IONIQ 5 and IONIQ 6 campaign includes video, digital and influencer executions, and will use a variety of media platforms to amplify the messaging and vehicle features such as its quality craftsmanship, electrification and innovative technology. There are 15-, 30-, and 60- second versions of the spot available for broadcast and digital channels.

Culture Brands
Culture Brands is an independent, minority and female-owned agency that exists to authentically celebrate, reflect and represent African Americans in media. Founded in 2017, by 15-year advertising veteran Eunique Jones Gibson, we create culturally relevant and affirming campaigns and content that inspire African American audiences by ensuring they feel seen, heard and valued. At Culture Brands, we are constantly engaged in a two-way conversation with the African American community through our owned and operated media platforms and consumer brands such as the award-winning Because of Them We Can®, Because of Them We Can Box (Just For Kids), #CultureTags® and Dream Village®. Culture Brands is headquartered right outside of the nation’s capital in Hyattsville, MD. www.culturebrands.co 

Hyundai Motor America

Hyundai Motor America focuses on ‘Progress for Humanity’ and smart mobility solutions. Hyundai offers U.S. consumers a technology-rich lineup of cars, SUVs, and electrified vehicles. Our 830 dealers sold more than 724,000 vehicles in the U.S. in 2022, and nearly half were built at Hyundai Motor Manufacturing Alabama. For more information, visit www.HyundaiNews.com.

Hyundai Motor America on Twitter | YouTube | Facebook | Instagram | LinkedIn | TikTok

Campaign Credits
Client: Hyundai Motor America
Brand: Hyundai IONIQ 5 and 6
Agency: Culture Brands 
Chief Creative Officer: Eunique Jones Gibson
Art Director: Natalie McGarvey
Associate Creative Director: Rome Green
Associate Creative Director: Gustavo Uriarte
Account Director: Britt Wright
Production Company: Eleanor Films
Executive Producer: Jessica Toscano
Digital Videos Director: Rohan Blair-Mangat
Postproduction: Post Union Editorial
Editor: Einar Thorsteinsson
Managing Director: Luis Gonzalez

SOURCE Hyundai Motor America

Discover relaxing nature classes at Caponi Art Park

Discover relaxing nature classes at Caponi Art Park
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Nonprofit looks to restore Snake art sculpture

Imagine discovering rest and relaxation at a Caponi Art Park forest bathing session hosted in the lush green nature area or pretending to be a rock star drummer in a “Pound” fitness class under a tree canopy.