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The Art of Family Tradition: Indigenous Fashion and Beadwork

The Art of Family Tradition: Indigenous Fashion and Beadwork

Codijo “Chebon” Yazzie’s beadwork draws the eye with bright colors, bold patterns and beautiful textures. Only an up-close look at his designs reveals the attention to detail and intricacy of the beading. Each “seed bead” is millimeters in size and hundreds of them are strung together to adorn hats, neckties, vests and shoes. The skills he uses in his art are in his blood, carried on through a family legacy.

Many beadworkers incorporate “sacred animals” in their designs, says Yazzie. “My family members use patterns like circles to represent the four seasons, the heavens, the earth the universe and the cycle of life.” Photos courtesy Codijo yazzie (@ codijochebonarts

Codijo Yazzie’s mother, Rosine Tree, and his sister are both fashion designers, focusing on Native designs, and they showcase their work at fashion shows around the country. Last year, they were invited to have their designs in the first annual Indigenous Fashion Show at San Diego’s Sycuan Powwow. Yazzie attended the fashion show as a photographer. “I was inspired by all the designers that attended the fashion show, and I loved all the different styles and seeing the models walk down the runway,” says Yazzie.

Yazzie grew up in the Navajo Nation in Upper Fruitland, N.M. He’s Diné (Navajo) and Kiowa Camanche and identifies his clan as Tsenjikini Ta’baaha’ (Honey Combed Rock Edgewater) Tachii nii (Red Running into Water). He later moved to Logan where he creates his beaded designs. Yazzie’s older sister, Cheyleen, taught him how to bead. They started first with single-needle stitches, then graduated to two-needle stitching. “She also showed me how to do different techniques while working with seed beads,” says Yazzie, who practiced beading on small items for years. 

“As soon I got a hang of beading, I [started] making dream catchers, beaded necklaces, beaded handbags, beaded horse masks and beaded elk masks for my close friends and family for gifts.”

In teaching Yazzie how to bead, his sister continued a rich tradition in their family, which has a history studded with artists and designers (going back to his great, great, great grandfather, Haungooah, who has some of his hide paintings in the Smithsonian). “Growing up, [I saw] how talented my family is—watching them doing all kinds of Native American arts, painting, sewing and beadwork and Native American designs,” he says.

Yazzie’s beaded ties and hats are made with seed beads, buck skins and deer bone. “I wanted to do something different for Native fashion,” he says. “My ties and hats can be used for nice events, like weddings and graduations.” He directs photoshoots of his own work using local Native Americans in Cache Valley as his models. He sent some of his photographs to the organizer of the Indigenous Fashion Show in San Diego. Yazzie says she was looking to put more men’s fashion designs in the show this year, and she loved his beadwork and invited him to participate.

As he was inspired by his family and the Native American designers in the fashion show, Yazzie hopes his designs in the fashion show will inspire others. “I want our Indigenous young people to understand how it is important to carry different arts to express who we are,” explains Yazzie. “Our culture is important. This talent needs to be carried on.”  

Trading Post 

Native American designer Codijo Yazzie says he gets his art supplies, including the colorful seed beads for the beadwork on his projects, from the Native American Trading Post in Salt Lake City. The Trading Post also sells Powwow supplies, crafts, jewelry, blankets and music. Native American Trading Post, 3971 S. Redwood Rd., SLC, natput.com


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24 great ideas for your weekend in and around Madison

24 great ideas for your weekend in and around Madison

Hear some gorgeous music, try out your Halloween costume or watch Bucky parade down State Street — there’s just so much to do this weekend.

Fall Fest at ALNC: Put on your Halloween costume for “Creatures of the Night”-themed activities, kids’ costume parade, bonfire, refreshments and more at the Aldo Leopold Nature Center, 330 Femrite Drive, Monona. 5:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. Friday. Free, with free shuttle from Ahuska Park, www.aldoleopoldnaturecenter.org.

Banned Books Week: Events include Banned Books Storytime at Fitchburg Public Library, 11 a.m. Friday; Freedom to Read Celebrations at 3 p.m. Friday at Cambridge Public Library, 10 a.m. Saturday at Sequoya Library, 1 p.m. Saturday at Monona Public Library and 3 p.m. Saturday at Alicia Ashman Library. Free. Full event details are at www.beyondthepage.info/banned-books-con.

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“Stepping Softly on the Earth,” a new documentary from Marcos Colon, will be screened Sunday at the Marquee Cinema at Union South. 


con vivo!…music with life: “Schubert Masterpieces” opens the 21st season for this professional chamber music ensemble, 7:30 p.m. Friday, First Congregational United Church of Christ, 1609 University Ave., across from Camp Randall. Tickets available at the door, $20, $15 for seniors and students, www.convivomusicwithlife.org.

UW-Madison Homecoming Parade: Join Bucky, the UW Marching Band and loads of floats as they parade down State Street starting at 6 p.m. Friday, followed by a pep rally in Alumni Park, free, www.uwalumni.com/homecoming.

Fall Exhibitions Reception: Overture Center for the Arts hosts a reception and artists’ talks for its current art exhibitions, 5 to 8 p.m. Friday, Rotunda Stage, Overture Center, 201 State St. Light refreshments and cash bar. Free admission. Artist list is at www.overture.org/engage/galleries.

¡Greg Zelek y Amigos!: Madison Symphony Orchestra principal organist Greg Zelek performs a concert dedicated to his Cuban roots, featuring organ, flute, guitar, percussion and bass as part of the Concert Organ series, 7:30 p.m. Friday, Overture Hall, Overture Center for the Arts, 201 State St. $25-35, overture.org.

Glass Madison: Multiple art receptions on Friday open UW-Madison’s 2023-24 celebration of 60 years as an art glass innovator. For a complete list, see glasslab.art.wisc.edu/glassmadison/exhibitions.

Black Business Hub fundraiser: Urban Cabaret 2023 happens Friday with live music, food by local chefs and tours of the new Hub construction. Rooftop patio cigar event, 5:45 p.m., general ticketing entry at 6:45 p.m., 2352 S. Park St., tickets $150 to $325, downtownmadison.org/urban-cabaret-2023-fundraiser.

Films from the Amazon: Filmmaker Marcos Colon presents “Beyond Fordlandia,” his documentary about the lasting effects of Henry Ford’s 1927 attempt to build rubber plantations on a tributary of the Amazon, at 7 p.m. Friday in the Capital Lakes Grand Hall, 333 W. Main St., and his newest film, “Stepping Softly on the Earth,” at 4 p.m. Sunday in the Marquee Theater, Union South, 1308 W. Dayton St. Filmed on location in Peru, Colombia and Brazil, “Stepping Softly” focuses on three Indigenous leaders looking for ways to coexist with development and keep their traditions alive, lacis.wisc.edu/event/film-screening-stepping-softly-on-the-earth.

World Dairy Expo 2023: Final day of this massive dairy event, with parade of champions at 4 p.m. Friday, $25, under 12 free, Alliant Energy Center, 1919 Alliant Energy Center Way, worlddairyexpo.com.

Spooky Nights at Old World Wisconsin: “Halloween Legends and Lore” returns at this Wisconsin historical site, with strolls through a lantern-lit historic village, haunted performances and family-friendly activities including “Searching for Wisconsin’s mysterious Hodag,” plus food, beverages and live music, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays through Oct. 21, Old World Wisconsin, W372 S9727 Hwy 67, Eagle, $14 to $20; under 5 free, oldworldwisconsin.wisconsinhistory.org.

Kids in the Rotunda: Madison singer David Landau opens the KIR season with a free, family-friendly performance of music and funny stories, 9:30 a.m., 11 a.m. and 1 p.m., Saturday, Rotunda Stage, Overture Center, 201 State St., overture.org/engage/kids-in-the-rotunda.

Native Art Market: Meet the artists and shop from traditional and contemporary art including beadwork, quillwork, weaving, leather work, painting, clothing and more by 20 Indigenous artists, plus art demonstrations, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday, Arts + Literature Laboratory, 111 E. Livingston St., free admission, artlitlab.org/events/native-art-market-fall-2023.

Ancora String Quartet: Free concert as part of the “Grace Presents” series, Grace Episcopal Church, 116 W. Washington Ave. on Capitol Square, noon Saturday, gracepresents.org.

Fort Atkinson History: Visit the Dwight and Almira Foster House, located at the rear of the Hoard Historical Museum, 414 Foster St., for its final open hours in 2023, with public tours from 10 a.m. to noon Saturday. Museum staff will also demonstrate different methods for preserving food prior to the invention of pressure canning. Final 2023 entry to the Historic 1901 Water Tower, in the 300 block of S. Fourth St. East, will be from 10 to 11:45 a.m. Saturday for ages 8 and up. Free admission; donations welcome, www.hoardmuseum.org or 920-397-9914.

“The Wiz”: Children’s Theater of Madison opens this lively musical directed by Jamal Howard for ages 6 and older, through Oct. 22. Shows this weekend at 2:30 p.m. and 7 p.m. Saturday, 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. Sunday in the Playhouse, Overture Center, 201 State St., $30 to $36, ctmtheater.org/see-a-show/the-wiz-2023.



Native Art Market

Oneida artist Sayokla Kindness-Williams is among the artists who have exhibited and sold their work at the Native Art Market. The event returns to the Arts + Literature Laboratory this weekend.




Hispanic Heritage Month Celebration: Latinos Organizing for Understanding and Development (LOUD) hosts a free community gathering featuring music and dancing by CumbiaCachaca, with marimba player Eric de los Santos outdoors, plus an art exhibit featuring the paintings of six local community leaders, free, 5:30 p.m. Saturday, Rotunda Stage, Overture Center, 201 State St., overture.org/tickets-events/upcoming-events.

Dance Wisconsin: “Sonder” — Dance Wisconsin presents an evening of new contemporary ballet works, 7 p.m. Saturday and 2 p.m. Sunday in Promenade Hall, Overture Center, 201 State St., $35-$37, dancewisconsin.org.

Mariachi Herencia de Mexico: The Chicago-based mariachi group returns to Madison for a pay-what-you-wish show, 7 p.m. Saturday, Capitol Theater, Overture Center, 201 State St., $5 minimum admission charge, overture.org/tickets-events/upcoming-events.

Madison Bach Musicians: Lecture followed by the concert “Vivaldi’s Venice” featuring Marc Destrubé on violin. Saturday, lecture at 7:45 p.m., music at 8 p.m.; Sunday, lecture at 2:45 p.m., music at 3:30 p.m. Holy Wisdom Monastery, 4200 County Road M, Middleton, $38 in advance; livestream $20, madisonbachmusicians.org.

Fire Truck Parade: Dane County Fire Chiefs Association presents its annual family-friendly fire truck parade starting on State Street near Lake Street, then proceeding to Capitol Square, 1 p.m. Sunday. After the parade, meet firefighters and tour the trucks along Mifflin and Carroll streets, free, www.cityofmadison.com/calendar/dane-county-fire-truck-parade-0.

“Mend” Gallery Talk: Artist talks at 2 p.m. Sunday from Glenn Williams, Siara Berry and Sylvie Rosenthal, whose works are featured in “Mend: the work of repair,” at the James Watrous Gallery, third floor, Overture Center, 201 State St., free, wisconsinacademy.org/gallery.

Gleam: Art in a New Light: Lighted artworks at Olbrich Botanical Gardens. Through Oct. 28, 7:30 to 10:30 p.m. Wednesdays through Saturdays. Tickets $16, $8 ages 6-12, sold in advance only. Purchase at olbrichgleam.org.

Mammoth Hike Challenge: Hike, run, walk or backpack 43 miles on Wisconsin’s Ice Age Trail in this scenic challenge from Oct. 1 to Oct. 31. Log your miles and visit three Trail Communities to earn a hiking certificate and a limited-edition patch, free, www.iceagetrail.org.

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Indigenous Peoples’ Day Pow Wow returns to central Wisconsin this weekend

Indigenous Peoples’ Day Pow Wow returns to central Wisconsin this weekend

WAUSAU, Wis. (WSAW) – Monday, Oct. 9 is known as Indigenous Peoples’ Day and to celebrate, the Central Wisconsin Indigenous Peoples’ Day Committee is holding a Pow Wow and Native American Art Market this weekend. Director of the Central Wisconsin Indigenous Peoples’ Day Committee Tricia Zunker joined Sunrise 7 to preview the event.

Grand entry of the Pow Wow will be happening at 1 p.m. and 7 p.m. on Saturday, and at noon on Sunday.

“That’s when all the dancers come in and fill the arena,” Zunker said. “They come in by dance category, it’s a beautiful sight to see and really, it’s open to anybody.”

Along with the Pow Wow, there will be a free traditional feast at 5 p.m. on Saturday. Throughout the weekend, there will be 30 Native American craft vendors and artists set up for the Art Market.

“With Indigenous Peoples’ Day, it just seems like a really fitting opportunity to celebrate Native American culture, our way of life, our continued existence and acknowledge we’re still here,” Zunker said.

The Pow Wow and Art Market is happening Oct. 7-8 at the Central Wisconsin Expo Center in Rothschild. Admission is free and everyone from the public is welcome to attend.

Indigenous designers get the spotlight at Northwest Native Fashion Show

Indigenous designers get the spotlight at Northwest Native Fashion Show

The Wednesday night show hadn’t officially started, but the crowd was already starting to giggle in anticipation as the lights lowered at the event center at the Wildhorse Resort and Casino.

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Thunder boomed over the sound system as the smoke machines whirred to life. A figure veiled in black walked the catwalk as a narrator talked about the people’s connection to the land and the work to preserve it for the next seven generations.

“We must assess our intention for mindful creation and destruction, for we are at the hands of both,” the narrator said.

Not long after, the model shed her veil to reveal a bright yellow two-piece outfit adorned with tribal jewelry. The 2023 Northwest Native Fashion Show on the Umatilla Indian Reservation had begun.

The brainchild of two Indigenous economic development officials, the fashion show was meant to spotlight Native designers who were looking to jump from the realm of hobbyist to professional fashion, their work incorporating the traditional artisanry of their tribes with more contemporary designs.

As a part of the larger Northwest Native Economic Summit, the fashion show was meant to be a part of a growing movement to support Native-owned small businesses.

And on Wednesday, that movement walked the catwalk.

‘Dedication to their craft’

The first inklings for the fashion show came when Jacob Wallis was young

A member of the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation with Yakama and Niimiipuu heritage, Wallis was given the Native name Watáy — summer ermine — by his grandmother. He remembered that his family often got together to make clothes for variety shows at their church.

Wallis said he still has VHS tapes showing the clothing made at these family gatherings, “department store” quality in his eyes. Some of those family members died before they could be recognized for their talents, he said.

“I’ve always felt kind of sad that they passed away (with) people not really knowing their work and their dedication to their craft,” he said. “I’ve always envisioned there being some type of platform that we can have for those creatives to be able to shine … more than just, ‘Oh, we just did it for a variety show in a backyard’ situation.”

Those plans solidified after he met Casey Pearlman. Both Wallis and Pearlman work in tribal economic development — Wallis as the business services manager for Nixyaawii Community Financial Services on the Umatilla Indian Reservation and Pearlman as the director of business development at the Affiliated Tribes of Northwest Indian Economic Development Corp. in Portland.

The pair were at a training summit in Portland last year and Pearlman had helped organize a reception at the Center for Native Arts and Cultures. Wallis found himself inspired by the space and quickly found an ally in Pearlman.

“He kind of sashayed across the room and he looked around,” Pearlman recalled. “He said, ‘Did you plan this?’ And I said, ‘Yep.’ He said, ‘Oh, this is great. We should do a fashion show in here.’ And seven months later, we had our first fashion show here in Wildhorse.”

The first show was planned on a tight timeline for a small audience. Intended to act as a reception for the business summit, the first fashion show brought in 75 people.

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With more time to plan the second show, Wallis and Pearlman upped their ambition. This year’s event still coincided with the summit, but it was open to the general public and ticketed separately. Three hundred people attended.

Wallis was motivated to put on these shows because he wanted to demonstrate to Indigenous creators that their clothing and crafts didn’t just have cultural or personal value, but monetary value as well. Visitors bought dozens of items displayed on the runaway last year, Wallis said.

Pearlman said they were also intentional in the way they planned the event. Not only were the designers Native, but also the DJ, makeup artists and hair stylists. Many were from the Columbia plateau tribes: the CTUIR, the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs, the Nez Perce Tribe and Yakama Nation.

“To put plateau designs made by plateau artists on a runway and for sale here, and just kind of model how these people deserve to be treated,” she said. “We’re happy to be that role model for the broader community.”

The pair can see the event expanding as a source of inspiration for other Native fashion shows on other reservations.

Wallis said the rise in Native designers and other tribal small businesses can be viewed as an expansion of tribal sovereignty.

“Our sovereignty has pretty much been limited to tribal enterprise and in tribal government, but we have so much more to develop. I think there’s been this level of hesitancy,” he said. “But the time is now and we’re making sure that we’re capitalizing on that.”

Self-reliance

Dave Tovey remembers when elders used to tell other tribal members that the Great Depression never reached the Umatilla Indian Reservation.

While many tribal members may not have had traditional employment, the director of Nixyaawii Community Financial Services said they still could rely on their traditions for subsistence and other needs. Tovey said his grandmother used to feed dozens of migrants who were traveling through Eastern Oregon looking for work.

As an economic development official who works for the CTUIR, Tovey said he’s looking to cultivate a similar spirit of self-reliance in the modern tribal economy.

“We need to make sure that, should the rest of the world fall apart, we still have a lot of the tools here to be self-reliant and keep our community safe and fed and secure,” he said.

Tovey is also the president of the Affiliated Tribes of Northwest Indian Economic Development Corp. and helped bring this year’s economic summit back to Wildhorse. He sees the fashion show as a natural extension of that spirit.

Nixyaawii provides both consumer and small business loans to tribal members, but he said much of the economy in Indian Country is still informal.

“I think there’s a lot of stuff that happens on the reservation that’s not a recorded economy. [It’s] a lot of trade and a lot of other things,” he said. “We’re at that point [where] we’re trying to help people identify those areas and help them along that route.”

When Wallis and Pearlman contacted potential designers for the show, many of them saw themselves as hobbyists rather than professionals.

A member of the CTUIR, designer Melinda Broncheau’s career got started out of necessity when she couldn’t afford to buy her children traditional clothing as a single mother. She relied on the traditions taught by her mother and grandmother and taught herself techniques if there was something she didn’t know.

“I think that mindset is a designer person,” she said. “If there’s something you want, and you put your own little spin on it, it’s your design now.”

With the help of Nixyaawii, she was able to open her own business, Ruby’s Indian Supplies and Crafts, during the COVID-19 pandemic.

Broncheau was excited to show off her wares at the fashion show Thursday, even if she didn’t want to bask in the spotlight. After the models finished showing off her clothes, she kept her curtain call brief as the audience serenaded her with applause.

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Native Alaskan artist Crystal Worl brings Tlingit art to Weston skis, snowboards

Native Alaskan artist Crystal Worl brings Tlingit art to Weston skis, snowboards
Crystal Worl is a multidisciplinary artist based in Juneau, Alaska. She is the co-founder of Trickster Company, a lifestyle brand which started with hand-painted skateboards.
Courtesy image

Minturn-based Weston Snowboards has launched several new lines this season featuring designs from Crystal Worl, who specializes in the formline art of the Alaska native Tlingit people.

The collaboration is part of a larger effort between Worl, Weston and others to raise awareness for the urgent situation in Alaska involving salmon harvesting.

Worl, who is herself Tlingit, said on Weston’s new Skyline-model skis and Backwoods- and Eclipse-model snowboards, she drew from her people’s artistic style in an effort to be communicative with the project.



“There’s a whole set of principles and way of creating the art, it’s very complex and something that’s passed on from mentor to apprentice,” she said. “Growing up, we didn’t call it art. It’s on our regalia, it’s on our houses, it’s a way of communication, it’s our literature.

“This formline design is used so that when I’m wearing my regalia, someone will look at my regalia and see my clan crest on there, and they’ll be able to tell who I am, where I’m from, and their relationship to me and my family,” Worl added. “It’s a whole book of information just from one design.”

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Worl said the salmon depicted on her Weston boards represents “Xáat Kusteeyí,” a Tlingit term for “The Salmon Way of Life,” which focuses on protecting salmon and salmon habitat so the salmon can provide people with sustenance in return.

Crisis on the Kuskokwim

Worl grew up attending something she calls “fish camp,” where kids learn to filet and smoke fish.

But in recent years, fish camp has been canceled, she said.

“We’ve been going to fish camp and harvesting fish in the Kuskokwim River forever, something my grandfather passed on to his kids and on to me and my family,” she said. “But the past three years we haven’t been allowed to, because the number of salmon is too low.”

It’s a crisis for the native people of Alaska who live by Xáat Kusteeyí.

“It’s urgent,” Worl said. “It affects our small communities in Alaska, but it does ultimately affect everyone … the way the world is collecting salmon is not sustainable. We won’t have salmon in the future.”

Artist Crystal Worl with Trickster Company.
Courtesy image

Worl said she thinks about the situation every day, and it has altered the way she thinks about her art. Using the communicative formline style of her people, she now seeks to spread a message communicating the urgency of the salmon harvesting situation in Alaska.

“Part of creating an art piece that commemorates salmon is also telling people the importance of salmon and also the importance of learning to harvest them respectfully in a way that’s not wasteful,” she said.

Haa Aani Alliance

Worl has attended art school and taken on extensive studies including a three-year apprenticeship with Haida artist Robert Davidson, a master of the craft. But her first and most influential mentor was her brother, Rico Worl.

Rico carved out the recognition and respect of a corner of Alaskan skateboard culture with his signature style, eventually requesting the assistance of Crystal.

“My older brother was hand-painting skateboard decks and selling them online, and he was doing so well that it was hard to keep up with orders,” she said. “He started sending me blank decks, and I started hand painting them.”

The siblings formed Trickster Company, and while Crystal’s art continued to be featured on skateboards, she had yet to appear on a snowboard before the Weston collaboration.

Weston, in partnership with Tlingit artist Crystal Worl of Trickster Company, Zeal Optics, Smartwool, Pret, and MountainFLOW Eco-Wax, have joined forces to form the Haa Aani Alliance and launch a collection of goggles, skis, snowboards, socks and accessories featuring Worl’s artwork, with a portion of proceeds benefiting Yukon Salmon, Wild Salmon Center and the North Atlantic Salmon Fund.
Courtesy image

Trickster Company, along with Weston, Zeal Optics, Smartwool, Pret, and MountainFLOW Eco-Wax, have now joined forces to form the Haa Aani Alliance. Has Aani is a Tlingit word meaning “our land.”

In addition to the Weston skis and snowboards, the Haa Aani Alliance will launch a collection of goggles, socks and accessories featuring Worl’s artwork, with a portion of proceeds benefiting nonprofits Yukon Salmon, Wild Salmon Center and the North Atlantic Salmon Fund.

Worl is a skier and enjoys the sport and its connection to Alaska. She also wants to make it clear that by putting her art on its products, these companies are supporting indigenous art, not appropriating it.

“I’m a small business owner, and like any other modern-day business, we want buyers and collectors to feel really excited about repping our gear, whether it be something they buy from the Trickster website, or they buy this snowboard or skis,” she said. “I want everyone to wear it and rock it, and I want people to be stoked about the art, and the story, and share the story, share the values that come with it, learn from it, and shred on the mountain with these boards and be excited to tell other people about it.”

From Vienna, Two Artists Set Their Sights on Frieze London

From Vienna, Two Artists Set Their Sights on Frieze London
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Sophie Thun and Laurence Sturla, whose works will be shown in the fair’s Focus section, discussed their work and their lives in the Austrian capital.

Emerging artists provide an art fair with some of its most exciting booths. Since 2012, Frieze has showcased new talent through its Focus series, which puts a spotlight on galleries that have been in operation for 12 years or less.

Among the 34 galleries chosen for Focus at this year’s Frieze London (from Thursday through Oct. 15) are a handful from Vienna, which is home to an increasingly dynamic and international contemporary arts scene.

Sophie Thun, 37, has photographically documented her latest solo show, “Leaking Times,” created for a converted sugar refinery in Ljubljana, Slovenia. The German-Polish artist, who is represented by the gallery Sophie Tappeiner, revisits techniques in analogue photography and photograms with at times life-size images exploring the interface of production, performance and exhibition.

Laurence Sturla, 31, will be exhibited in his native England for the first time and unveil his largest-scale work to date. Part of a series that has been seen at Vienna Contemporary, Liste Art Fair Basel and his Vienna gallery, Gianni Manhattan, his over-fired ceramic sculptures at once evoke decaying industrial parts, antique ceramics, organic growth and mechanical precision.

At their studios in Vienna, the artists spoke about their working processes. The following conversations have been edited and condensed.

How will you be developing your artistic practices further for Frieze?

The format of an exhibit as a genre interests me. It does not just involve hanging pictures on the wall, but rather is something that has a given length. It also includes who enters and how people interact. Exhibits always have a performative aspect.

I will be adapting the space in Ljubljana to a fair stand. So it is a rendering of the exhibit format within a booth — a kind of re-cropping or spatial investigation. One can find this in paintings of the past, for example on altars in churches. They were created for concrete dimensions.

I used to paint, and the first thing I would do is build the frame. In photography, it’s exactly the same. The first decision is the size. My work makes visible the darkroom and the space where the image is taken. I also leave in traces of the alignment process.

“Serving Reorganised (J&H)” (2023), by Ms. Thun.via the artist and Sophie Tappeiner; Kunst-Dokumentation

Does your work challenge contemporary practices in photography?

With a smartphone, the device starts rendering the photo before you take a shot. An analogue photograph is more like an etching or wood carving. It functions through contact like in graphic work. The most important work happens in the dark — not behind the camera but in the process of materialization.

I am also interested in the overlapping of different temporalities. In “Slaughterhouse-Five” by Kurt Vonnegut, there are extraterrestrials who don’t have linear time. Rather, everything happens simultaneously: dying, eating. In painting, there is also such a tradition. For example, in Genesis tableaus where the earth is created, the animals and people are banished — all captured in one image.

Has Vienna shaped you as an artist?

I originally studied painting here, with Daniel Richter. Then I discovered a darkroom one floor down at the Semperdepot [of the Academy of Art]. It was always empty. Working with analogue photography was totally out. In contrast with this class full of people — which was of course also very exciting — it was a room where you could close the door.

Some people prefer to work in isolation. Others have a team produce their work for them — which also has a long tradition, if you think of Rubens. I apparently like to work alone in dark rooms.

It is also just a great city to live in. I have a studio provided by the federal government. It is compact so that time is not as scarce as in a larger city. That is worth so much.

“Through tongue and soil” (2022), by Laurence Sturla.via the artist and Gianni Manhattan; Kunst-Dokumentation

How will you be developing your artistic practices further for Frieze?

It was a question of how far I can push things. I used around 250 kilos [551 pounds] of clay for each sculpture. With each firing, I am keeping my fingers crossed that it all survives!

I like to think of them as like post-mortems. There’s a piece that appears like a cutaway on a construction site, or an archaeological discovery, or something surgical.

The moment that it’s taken from the kiln, the clay is porous and absorbs everything from its surroundings. The parts are placed in slurry, which creates a kind of a coating of studio detritus.

They will then be placed in saltwater, which gives them a false weight — because by weighing them, drying them out again and then reweighing, you can determine how old a piece is, like with Roman pottery — so it’s like creating a fake history. There will be a salted tide line. It’s this constant lapping of time.

“Deadgrounds (II)” (2022), by Mr. Sturla.via the artist and Gianni Manhattan; Kunst-Dokumentation

How does the theme of industrialism come to the fore?

The book “Smallcreep’s Day” by Peter Currell Brown accompanied the work. It’s about a character who quits his job working in a factory and becomes a potter. He develops a romantic sort of lifestyle, but it’s also a strange horror story because of how grim and how visceral the descriptions are. He has worked in a factory all of his life making the same thing over and over again. He goes on a journey through the factory to find out what he’s making and never quite finds out.

The city where I’m from, Swindon, was the home of the railway. There were big factories making trains. And then the industry closed down. It’s now where banks have their call centers.

So my work takes into account this transition, what this means to the places and the people. There are also references to modes of work, their ritualistic aspects and why we maintain them — sort of looking at the ghosts of industrialization.

Has Vienna shaped you as an artist?

Vienna has given me possibilities that I don’t think I would have anywhere else. I can afford to have a studio and somewhat of a life. I don’t think that exists in a lot of places — not England, certainly not Paris.

The city is small, but that means that it’s tight-knit and supportive. You get to know everyone. It’s also changing and growing all the time, which is quite exciting.

Before the Curtain: Arts on Campus Week 5

This week, Still North Books & Bar hosts an open mic night featuring poet Kate Gibbel, the Hood Museum hosts the Indigenous People’s Fashion Show and the Hopkins Center features numerous films and productions.

by John Renda
| 10/6/23 2:00am

lookahead

Friday, Oct. 6

Still North Books & Bar will host a Mic & Mingle event at 5:30 p.m., consisting of a one-hour open mic, with poet Kate Gibbel as featured reader, followed by an hour of snacks and mingling. Each reader will have a maximum speaking time of three minutes. Those who wish to participate can sign up in advance on Still North’s website.

The Hopkins Center for the Arts will screen “Shortcomings” at 7 p.m. in the Loew Auditorium. Directed by Randall Park, and based on a graphic novel of the same name, “Shortcomings” is a coming-of-age film about a man who fights to recover a relationship with his ex-girlfriend after she announces her move from the Bay Area to New York. Tickets are available on the Hopkins Center website, with general admission tickets available at $8 per person. 

The Hopkins Center will also host the second and third of six stagings of “Frogman,” an interactive theater performance created by curious directive at 5 p.m. and 8 p.m. in the Black Visual Arts Center film studio. Created by Jack Lowe, director of curious directive and a Hop resident artist, the performance surrounds an investigation of the murder of a young girl. Viewers will spend the first half investigating the protagonist’s memories in virtual reality and the second half interrogating a suspect in the crime. Additional showings will take place on Saturday and Sunday. Tickets are available on the Hop website, with general admission tickets available at $30 per person.

At 9 p.m., Sawtooth Kitchen will feature a performance from Mojohand, a New York-based Americana band that has toured the country since 2016. Tickets are available on Sawtooth’s website for $5 per person.

Saturday, Oct. 7

The Hood Museum of Art will host the Hood Highlights Tour at 2 p.m. Free and open to the public, this one-hour guided tour will cover important pieces in each of the museum galleries. No advance registration is necessary, and attendees may meet in the Russo Atrium five minutes prior to the tour to join.

At 8 p.m., Sawtooth will host The Party Crashers, a cover band primarily focused on danceable hits, both classic and contemporary. Tickets are available on Sawtooth’s website for $5 per person.

At 10 p.m., the Hopkins Center will screen “The Rocky Horror Picture Show” at 10 p.m. in Sarner Underground. Part of their Primal Fear on Film series, the Hopkins Center website refers to the beloved cult film as “the most beloved of all cinematic bacchanalia.” The screening will be free, unticketed and open to the public.

Sunday, Oct. 8

The Hopkins Center will host an advance screening of “The American Buffalo” at 4 p.m. in the Loew Auditorium. The latest documentary by world-renowned director Ken Burns, “The American Buffalo” provides a history of the buffalo in North America over the past 10,000 years, tracking its evolution, endangerment, and relationship to Indigenous people. Tickets are available on the Hopkins Center website, with general admission tickets available at $12 per person.

Tuesday, Oct. 10

At 7 p.m., Still North will host a reading of the novel “Fire in the Canyon,” read by its author, Daniel Gumbiner. The reading of Gumbiner’s second novel — which centers around a California family impacted by climate disaster — is sponsored by the English and Creative Writing department. A reception with the author will follow. The event is open to the public.

Wednesday, Oct. 11

At 4 p.m., the Hood Museum will host “A Space for Dialogue” gallery talk on the exhibition “Love as Ceremony: Legacies of Two-Spirit Liberation,” curated by former Hood Museum intern Moonoka Begay ’23. In the 45-minute talk, Begay will provide an overview of work of contemporary “Two-Spirit” Indigenous artists. The event is free and open to the public.

Thursday, Oct. 12

The Hopkins Center will screen the film “Sherlock Jr.” at 7 p.m. in the Loew Auditorium. Accompanied by a live keyboard score by Bob Merrill, the 1924 film, directed by Buster Keaton, is considered a classic of the silent era. Tickets are available on the Hopkins Center website, with general admission tickets available at $10 per person.

At 8 p.m., the Hood Museum will host the annual  Indigenous People’s Fashion Show. The fashion show is co-sponsored by Hōkūpa’a, Native Americans at Dartmouth and the Native American Program. The Hood Museum website describes the fashion show as a “celebration of Indigenous fashion, creativity, expression and design.” The event will be open to the public.

Indigenous Australians tell their own stories in the Karrabing Film Collective

The start of the Karrabing Film Collective’s 2016 film “Wutharr, Saltwater Dreams” hints at the universe that viewers are about to enter. Three Indigenous men are attempting to fix the outboard motor of a boat marooned near a shack. The oldest says the ancestors have broken it — they are angry because they have been neglected. An onlooker disagrees. She says the problem stems from his lack of faith in the Lord, adding that he shouldn’t believe “in old-people things”. A young man says he knows nothing about either, and seawater has eaten away the wiring.

The film is intercut with dreamlike shots of water lapping on a deserted shore. A white police officer wanders through the bush — where the ancestors, represented as figures covered in pale clay designs, also live — apparently seeking the boat’s owner. The film is subtitled because the dialogue is in a local creole.

A woman leans against a fence with a tree and a house behind her. A text caption reads ‘You want to believe in old people things.’
Still from ‘Wutharr, Saltwater Dreams’ (2016) © Courtesy the Karrabing Film Collective

The Karrabing Film Collective is a loose group of 30 mostly Indigenous Australians based in the tiny Northern Territory settlement of Belyuen, near Darwin. It chose its name — which means “low tide turning” in Emmiyangel — to indicate that Indigenous peoples, ancestral lands and the environment are interconnected in ways not always understood by central authorities.

The collective came to international attention when one of their early works, “When the Dogs Talked” (2014), won an award at the Melbourne Film Festival and since then their films have been shown at Documenta 14, MoMA PS1 in New York and the Haus der Kunst in Munich. Their latest film, “Night Fishing with Ancestors”, is included in an exhibition of the same name at the Goldsmiths Centre for Contemporary Art in south London, which opens to coincide with the Frieze art fairs.

A woman adjusts a camera next to a girl holding a microphone in the Australian bush
Natasha Bigfoot Lewis (left) and Chloe Gordon filming ‘Wutharr, Saltwater Dreams’ © Courtesy the Karrabing Film Collective

Angelina Lewis, a member of the collective, says it was formed in 2012 following violent clashes five years earlier over land rights which tore apart poverty-stricken Belyuen. Reporters from Australian media came to document the tensions, which left several people temporarily homeless. “That experience led us to try to find a way to tell our own stories,” Lewis says. Families help develop the stories, shooting on phones and acting the various roles. “Our community is losing its language, it is losing its ancestor stories. This is a way of keeping a spark alive,” she adds.

Karrabing’s films are a mesmerising blend of documentary and fiction, meandering between the prosaic and the mystical. The ancestors are ever-present, as are the Cox peninsula’s rugged landscapes. But so are rusting trucks, bored teenagers and cans of lager. There are undercurrents of colonial expropriation and violence.

Three blurred figures covered in white face paint stand near the ocean
Still from ‘Night Fishing with Ancestors’ (2023) © Courtesy the Karrabing Film Collective

In “Night Fishing with Ancestors”, the same actor plays an 18th-century British explorer and a contemporary mining engineer. Permission has been granted by the government for a large lithium mine close to Belyuen, Lewis says, and its metal fencing is visible in the film. “The mine stretches up to a hunting ground, it crosses wild cattle and turtle tracks, right up the saltwater coastline and fishing grounds,” Lewis says. “They promise Indigenous people jobs, they promise they won’t destroy our land. But we eat from there.”

In “Windjarrameru” (2015), police chase youths through a sacred but contaminated mangrove, incorrectly accusing them of drinking stolen alcohol. Meanwhile, poor local men collude with miners in illegal blasting to pay off small fines. Periodically the collective, who improvise their roles, break off to take a rest on the ground while shadowy figures pass secretly by.

A blurred image of four figures with white face paint against an ochre and brow background
Still from ‘Windjarrameru, The Stealing C*nt$’ (2015) © Courtesy the Karrabing Film Collective

The film obliquely references 2007’s Northern Territory National Emergency Response, or “The Intervention”, a government action to tackle the alleged abuse of children in Indigenous communities. It brought in punitive restrictions on alcohol, imposed conditions on welfare payments and partially suspended race-discrimination and land-rights acts. But the film also draws on the traditional beliefs of the collective’s ancestors.

“There’s a dual effect in their films, there’s so much you can empathise with, even laugh at,” says Natasha Hoare, the curator at Goldsmiths CCA. “But there’s another realm running alongside the mundane, one you are tantalisingly aware of but know you can’t really understand.”

Karrabing are not the only Indigenous artists catching the attention of contemporary art curators. The National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC, opened The Land Carries our Ancestors: Contemporary Art by Native Americans last month, while the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) launches an exhibition, Indigenous Histories, later in October. It is a major show of work by artists from North and South America, Oceania and Scandinavia. MASP’s artistic director, Adriano Pedrosa, will direct the next Venice Biennale in 2024 and there are expectations that he will include work by Indigenous artists.

Four people kneel or squat in front of corrugated iron wall covered in colourful graffiti
Members of the collective in Brisbane in 2018 © Courtesy the Karrabing Film Collective

Of course, Indigenous artists, especially from Australia, have been part of art history for some years. But Hoare says Indigenous voices are resonating more loudly in an era of climate change. “There is a sense that colonisation and environmental degradation has led to a world that is not a fit place for us all to live in,” she says. “Undoing the ills of modernity and paying attention to Indigenous forms of knowledge suddenly seems more important and timely.”

Lewis hopes that visitors to the exhibition in London will be taken on “a mysterious journey” but one they will understand. “I know we can relate to other people,” she says. “Everybody has a past. Everybody has ancestors. Everybody has a story, no matter where they come from.”

October 7-January 14, goldsmithscca.art