The two F-117 stealth jets were flying the famous Sidewinder Low-Level Training Route in California.

The Lockheed F-117 Nighthawk was officially retired by the U.S. Air Force in 2008. However, as we have been reporting for several years now,  not only is the iconic stealth jet flying for training purposes as adversary aircraft and cruise missile surrogate, but also operating for research, development, test and evaluation, possibly supporting next generation programs.

For a certain period, although the aircraft were regularly spotted both in Nevada and near the bases across the U.S. where the F-117s deployed to carry out DACT (Dissimilar Air Combat Training) activities in favor of other types and units, the USAF did not admit the fact that the aircraft was still flying. Then, in 2021, the service published the first official images of the type still involved in flight operations on the DVIDS (Defense Visual Information Distribution Service) network, de facto acknowledging the return to the active service of the F-117.

In September 2022 the Air Force Test Center published a Request For Information (RFI) about a possible 10-year contract for maintenance and logistics support services for the F-117A fleet at the TTR airfield, acknowledging that the U.S. Air Force is willing to keep the aircraft flying at least until 2034.

More recently, it was disclosed that Air Force was planning to certify the F-117A Nighthawk to be able to refuel from the KC-46A Pegasus, the service’s new tanker.

A U.S. Air Force F-117 Nighthawk taxies at Joint Base Elmendorf-Richardson, Alaska during Northern Edge 23-1, May 10, 2023. (U.S. Air Force photo by Sheila deVera)
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Anyway, after the veil of secrecy was, at least partially, lifted, the sightings have increased, including those of F-117s flying very low altitude.

For this reason, last month, a photographer decided to embark on a trip to the low level training areas to shoot some photos and footage of the elusive stealth jets. Here’s how it went.

How it all started

“I am a second-year university student living in Colorado,” says our friend and contributor Andrew Kelly. “I have always been interested in aviation, and when COVID-19 closed my school in March of 2020, I made it my goal to teach myself how to use a camera properly. Having grown up near the Pease Air National Guard Base in New Hampshire watching the military aircraft train, I decided to combine my passion for aviation with my desire to learn photography.”

“I have now been shooting military aviation for over four years, and have enjoyed learning about the people, the mission, the aircraft, and my camera. I worked at a flight school throughout high school as a dispatcher while working towards my private pilot certificate. After university I will be pursuing my dream of flying for the US military.”

Equipment

Andrew, whose work can be found online on Instagram or here, has improved a lot since his amateur beginnings: “When I first began shooting, I was using my mom’s Canon Rebel XSI from 2008. I have graduated from that early model DSLR to using Canon’s Professional Mirrorless lineup. I currently shoot with the Canon R5 and the Canon RF 200-800mm lens. To record video through my iPhone 14 Pro Max while using my camera, I have it mounted to the hot-shoe system.”

“I have enjoyed meeting other photographers and traveling all over the US with my camera at my side to further my passion for both military aviation and photography.”

Westbound

“I had seen photos that my friends had been taking along the Sidewinder Low-Level Training Route in California. I decided that for my university’s spring break I would drive out to the low-level training route and spend the week camping/hiking with my camera. I had heard stories from friends about F-117’s from Tonopah occasionally dropping into the low-level route. I knew that a photo of an F-117 “down low” would make the trip.”

“I woke up early each morning to hike to the location along the Kern River Valley I selected. Each morning by 08.00 I was in place on the mountain with my radio scanner and my camera. Eyes focused to the South for any aircraft running the route.”

“On my first day I shot California Air National Guard F-15C’s, and VFA-146/VFA-94 F-18’s.”

“Around 1pm I noticed that a KC-135 from Edwards AFB was flying Northeast towards Tonopah. After reaching Tonopah, the tanker turned and started heading back towards my location. Along with it were two F-117’s.”

“A short while later, my radio crackled to life. Over the gusting winds I was able to make out “Sidewinder Low Level, KNIGHT01 flight entering the route at point alpha, 500 feet, 500 knots. Two!””

I could hardly believe what I had just heard. Two F-117s were heading my way! I was so excited that I was almost shaking. I eventually saw the silhouettes of the aircraft descending into the valley.”

Close encounter with the Nighthawk

“When I was younger, I had a toy F-117 that my parents gave me. Seeing two of those familiar shapes flying towards me 16 years after the operational retirement of the airframe was a strange feeling.”

“I had to remind myself to stop watching and pick up my camera to shoot. As the flight approached me, they maneuvered to make the sharp right turn past me. To make this turn they rolled to the right, giving me a full view of the aircraft’s topside. The entire time I was snapping away with my camera. From a distance, the aircraft looks quite wide. The flight lead climbed up towards me and as it approached my perspective shifted. When it was positioned to show the full topside the wings look quite swept back.”

“I was not expecting the F-117 to be as loud as it was. It was comparable to the F-15s and F-18s I had been shooting all day. The sound echoed throughout the valley. The flight continued down the low-level route towards point Bravo, and then disappeared off into the horizon. Their silhouettes fading against the snowy mountains.”

Along with the cool photographs, Andrew filmed also a great clip of the low flying stealth jet.

A sighting worth the trip

“I stood on the top of the mountain watching them fly farther until I couldn’t see them anymore. I looked down on my camera and couldn’t believe that there were F-117 low level photos sitting on my CF Express card. I felt immensely grateful to have been in the right place at the right time and been able to see such a rare sight. All the driving, hiking, camping, and climbing was worth it. It didn’t matter to me what happened during the rest of the week. From day one, the trip had been a success.”

About David Cenciotti

David Cenciotti is a journalist based in Rome, Italy. He is the Founder and Editor of “The Aviationist”, one of the world’s most famous and read military aviation blogs. Since 1996, he has written for major worldwide magazines, including Air Forces Monthly, Combat Aircraft, and many others, covering aviation, defense, war, industry, intelligence, crime and cyberwar. He has reported from the U.S., Europe, Australia and Syria, and flown several combat planes with different air forces. He is a former 2nd Lt. of the Italian Air Force, a private pilot and a graduate in Computer Engineering. He has written five books and contributed to many more ones.

Many people have become tired of hearing about a certain solar eclipse taking place on Monday, and those individuals may have done absolutely nothing to prepare for it. This absolute humbug of a celestial event seems like an overrated excuse to price gouge AirBNB rates and sell dorky cardboard glasses, right?

Procrastinators and those who have had a last-minute change of heart may find themselves at a loss since special items are recommended for viewing and photographing an eclipse. Providing further discouragement is knowing that millions of people will be photographing it, and surely many of those people will have high-end camera equipment and appropriate filters.

Still — if you take a photo or video of the eclipse, it will be yours. Why not create a little memento? People love to take photos of the moon even though high-res images from ultra powerful cameras are available, and there’s something undeniably special about looking at celestial objects through your own telescope even if it doesn’t hold a candle to the James Webb.

It’s a bit late now to purchase a designated solar filter, which is required to let cameras capture zoomed-in details of the sun. Many filters are sold out, expedited shipping is expensive, and even if a friend has a solar filter, the eclipse will pass quickly and there’s hardly time to swap lenses around.

Make a solar filter out of trash

Fear not: there is a solution in an unlikely place.

It turns out that the Mylar “foil” wrapping of Pop Tarts, candies, and other foods can be a reasonably effective solar filter for cameras in a pinch, as can pieces of an emergency blanket made from the same material. Crafty photographers have created solar filters for their cameras using Pop Tart and candy wrappers mounted to cardboard tubes, soup cans, or even attached directly to a camera lens using masking tape.

Because the camera will be zoomed in on the sun, only a small piece of Mylar is needed for this filtering method. The Mylar should be placed over the direct center of the lens. Try to select a section of wrapper without words or colors printed on it, and place the wrapper over the camera with the “inside” facing outward. If taping the wrapper directly to the lens, use a gentle tape that will not leave scratches or residue such as masking tape.

Do NOT look directly at the sun through Mylar film. This method is only intended to be used with devices that have a viewing screen such as digital cameras with LED displays. Don’t look at the sun through the eyepiece of a camera with a Pop Tart filter!

The resulting photos will not be as sharp as a proper professional setup, but it should work for taking photos of the eclipse in a pinch. Check out the video below for directions and comparisons between sun photos using different food wrappers and dedicated solar film!

Wide-angle lens phone pictures

Instead of zooming in on the sun using a camera kitted out with a soup can and a Pop Tart wrapper, Apple reports that the wide-angle lenses in iPhones can be used to safely photograph solar eclipses without filters.

The iPhone wide lens technique has a catch. Pictures taken with an unfiltered phone camera should not be zoomed in, so the eclipse will only take up a very small part of the picture. This is great for locales with beautiful scenery, but anyone stepping out of work for a minute to grab a picture might have a less-than-ideal view.

Again, these pictures should be taken without looking directly at the sun.

Take pictures of the sun without taking pictures of the sun

For those unwilling to entrust the well-being of their cameras to random garbage or the word of Apple executives, another fun way to view and photograph a solar eclipse involves taking pictures of light and shadows.

One of the coolest, easiest, and most well-known ways to indirectly photograph eclipses is the colander/cheese grater method. Most objects with small holes will work well, including punched cardboard or paper. These simple items project crescent-shaped lights during an eclipse. Smaller holes will create sharper images.

Continuing the theme of repurposed kitchen garbage, NASA has shared instructions for making an eclipse viewer from a cereal box.

For the clearest and sharpest results, project the light onto a smooth white sheet of paper. Colanders are generally preferred for this method because their holes’ arrangements create interesting patterns of hundreds of little crescents.

Projections can be personalized by punching holes in card stock to form a desired shape, spelling out a name or forming a picture. For an even more creative approach, crescents may be projected onto various different surfaces like leaves, drawings, or someone’s hand.

No matter how overhyped it might seem, remember that this solar eclipse is more than a tourist trap — it’s a fantastic part of the elaborate dance between stars, planets, and moons in our solar system. Happy photographing!

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BROOKFIELD, Wis. — Excitement over the eclipse is growing. It is now just a day away. 

People might be curious about how they can capture the unique moment.

Jeffrey Dobbs is the general manager at Mike Crivello’s Cameras in Brookfield. Like many, he’s looking forward to Monday’s eclipse.

He had the chance to photograph the 2017 total solar eclipse, which was his first time capturing something of this nature.

“I enjoyed going, and I enjoyed seeing it,” Dobbs said. “It was amazing. I ended up with a couple of pretty good pictures.”

He traveled to southern Illinois to snap the images. Dobbs said it was an incredible experience.

“It was one of the most amazing sights I’ve ever seen in my life,” he said. “The feeling you get, and everything seems to stop, and you have 360 degrees of the sunset around you and it’s a beautiful thing to see.”

Seven years later, he’s had a lot of customers interested in learning how to photograph the eclipse. Dobbs said the main thing people need to know is that they need a solar filter. Without one, it can harm the camera, just as looking directly at the eclipse can hurt your eyes.

“On a digital camera, you could probably damage the sensor of the camera because it isn’t meant to take that amount of light at one time,” Dobbs said.

That kind of damage can be costly. In addition to the filter, Dobbs recommended a tripod to keep things stable. Once a person is ready to get the shot, have the filter on while the sun is out.

“As soon as it is completely covered, you can take off the filter, and you can shoot a picture just like normal,” Dobbs said. “You get a really remarkable result. As soon as the sun starts coming back out, you should certainly put a filter back on it so that you don’t damage your camera.”

With luck, he said it will be the perfect picture.

Dobbs said he and his team are happy to answer any questions or have eclipse photos printed. He said he hopes everyone enjoys getting to see a rare sight like this.

“I think it’s one of those things that you remember for the rest of your life,” Dobbs said.

Lubavitcher traveling photographer Morde’hai Lubecki presents a photo and video tour of Tverya, including the kever of the Rambam to celebrate the siyum and the shul of Rabbi Meir Baal Haness.

VIDEO:

The art of photography thrives not just on the celebration of successes but equally on the acknowledgment and analysis of failures. Understanding what doesn’t work in one’s photography can be as crucial as recognizing what does, providing valuable insights for personal growth and style development. 

Coming to you from Shoot On Film — by Ari Jaaksi, this insightful video takes a refreshing turn from the usual triumphs of photography as shown on the internet to a candid examination of mistakes and misses. Jaaksi opens up about the images that didn’t turn out as hoped and delves into a critical review of his work. This approach underscores an important aspect of photography: the relentless pursuit of improvement. By scrutinizing his own work, Jaaksi demonstrates how you can learn from failures to refine your vision and technique. The discussion on adjusting to lighting conditions and the importance of composition offers practical advice that can significantly impact your photographic outcomes.

Jaaksi’s personal anecdotes from his experiences shooting in Mexico City and his hometown bring to life the challenges photographers face in real-world scenarios. His story about the photograph taken early in Mexico City, expecting it to be perfect only to be disappointed by the harsh lighting and overwhelming background, serves as a poignant reminder of the unpredictability and impermanence of photographic moments. Similarly, his experimentation with different compositional rules and his reflections on choosing the right film type for a given setting emphasize the need for adaptability and intentionality in photography. These insights encourage you to embrace and learn from your mistakes.

Moreover, Jaaksi’s adventures with various cameras and settings, from the streets of Mexico City to the quiet fogs of Finland, illustrate the importance of choosing the right equipment for your vision. His experiences with the Holga camera and his exploration of color versus black and white film highlight how technical choices can profoundly affect the narrative and emotional impact of your images. This narrative brings forth an essential truth: the continuous evolution of a photographer’s skill set is driven by both their successes and their shortcomings. Check out the video above for the full rundown from Jaaksi.

In a departure from the well-trodden tourist panoramas, photographer Mikko Takkunen’s latest book, Hong Kong, unveils a Hong Kong bathed in a new light. Imagine towering skyscrapers not as imposing steel and glass giants, but as vibrant backdrops touched by the golden hues of the midday sun. 

Takkunen draws inspiration from the masters of mid-century street photography, with echoes of Saul Leiter’s evocative use of color and light. However, this is not a mere homage – Takkunen injects his own distinctive and contemporary voice. 

His lens forgoes the familiar landmarks, instead leading us on a captivating journey through Hong Kong’s labyrinthine side streets and unbeaten paths. By capturing the exquisite details and quiet scenes often overlooked by the hustle and bustle of city life, Takkunen provides a peak through the cracks into the still beauty of the region, and in turn, its people. Hong Kong is a captivating portrait of the country, one that celebrates both its grandeur and its hidden gems, all captured with a fresh and innovative perspective. 

In this interview I sit down with Mikko Takkunen and discuss his first major body of work, ahead of the release of his monograph Hong Kong, published by Kehrer. 

I have not seen Hong Kong depicted with such a serene and dignified approach since the photographs by Fan Ho. Takkunen’s observations of the city take us on a collective journey through exceptional compositional technique and color theory and leave us with as many questions as we have answers. 

It was such a pleasure to get to sit down and discuss Hong Kong with Mikko, and the added insights into his approach, equipment, and intentions bring an added dimension to the already stellar work. 

Street photography is a term that is often used casually in today’s world. However, not all images taken in this genre are created with sufficient thought and consideration of the subject. If you are someone who yearns for the classic street photographers of yesteryear, then Mikko Takkunen’s Hong Kong is for you. I highly anticipate it to be one of the best street photography books released this year, it’s a photography gem!

Hong Kong by Mikko Takkunen is published by Kehrer and is available now via the links below for $45 / £38 (Australian pricing to be confirmed). 

You may also be interested in our guides to the best coffee table books, the best books for street photography, and the best books on portrait photography.

The total solar eclipse is coming, and of course you’ll want to capture this once-in-a-lifetime moment with your best camera. Whether that’s your DSLR, mirrorless, or smartphone, we’re here to give you the best tips possible. But let’s be honest, taking photos of the sun is hard on a normal day, and the total eclipse won’t make things easier.

Let’s set expectations. Even if you have a great camera or one of the best smartphones, your camera and your equipment may not be up to the task, and you probably won’t get an amazing shot worth hanging on your wall or selling in a gallery, not unless you are a dedicated solar photographer.

That’s why we have tips for taking the best shots of the eclipse that capture the moment and the special day, not just the sun and moon in the sky. We’ll teach you how to set up properly, stay safe during the eclipse, and have a great time taking your best shots.

Most of all, don’t forget to look up – with the proper eyewear in place, of course. Don’t spend the entire eclipse managing your gear or you’ll miss a truly stellar event that likely won’t come your way again in your lifetime.

What is a total solar eclipse?

A total solar eclipse is when the Moon passes in front of the Sun, completely covering the face. This incredible event happens roughly every 18 months, which sounds frequent, but usually only a small part of the Earth has a good view of any total eclipse. This time around, the eclipse will reach a massive cross-section of North America, including many large cities in the United States, Canada, and Mexico. The next total eclipse in the US won’t come until 2044.

According to NASA, the eclipse happens because the Sun is 400 times larger than the Moon, and it is also 400 times farther away from the Earth than the Moon. This serendipity means that the Sun and the Moon appear to be the same size in the sky. When the two objects line up, the Moon covers the Sun almost perfectly.

We say ‘almost’ because the type of eclipse depends on how far the Moon is from the Earth in its orbit. When the Moon is farthest from the earth and closer to the Sun, the Moon cannot block the entire face of the Sun, so the eclipse is not total.

This gives us an ‘annular’ eclipse, which produces the ring of fire effect around the Sun because some of the Sun’s face is still visible. During an annular eclipse, it is very dangerous to view the eclipse without proper eyewear.

This year’s total eclipse takes place when the Moon is closer to the Earth. During the total eclipse, the Moon will block all of the face of the sun, including the bright corona. When the Sun is totally blocked, it is technically safe to remove your eclipse eyewear, but only if you are in the path of totality, and only while the sun is totally blocked. NASA and the American Optometric Association still suggest leaving your glasses on, just to be safe.

The ultimate treat is when the moon covers the entire face of the sun. This leaves the outer atmosphere of the Sun, the Corona, visible around the Moon.  Photographers love to capture every stage of the event, but that Corona shot is something truly special because the Corona is usually invisible to the eye, but visible when the Moon is blocking the Sun’s light. 

The total solar eclipse is often a once-in-a lifetime event. The eclipse itself seems to change everything. Darkness looms, birds start behaving strangely, and it gets noticeably colder. All of this adds up to a moment where you realize how incredible our solar system truly is.

When and where can I photograph the total solar eclipse?

The total solar eclipse on April 8, 2024, will cast its shadow of totality on land starting around Mazatlán, Sinaloa in Mexico at 11:07 AM local time. It will take around one hour forty minutes to cross the continent. During that time, some portion of the Sun may appear obscured by the moon, no matter where in the country you live. 

The total solar eclipse will reach totality, when the moon completely covers the face of the Sun, at the times listed below for major cities in each time zone. If you want a more detailed look, check out NASA’s excellent Where and When website. 

If you haven’t already picked your spot to see the eclipse, you may want to plan ahead to get the best shot possible. Unless you are carrying a serious zoom lens on a professional camera, your best shot of the eclipse is probably not going to be a close-up of the sun. You’ll want to have some scenery as well. 

To pick the best location, including the surroundings and any other background you’d like to include, check out the app PhotoPills. Though PhotoPills is a bit complicated to use, it does an amazing job helping you plan the best photos when the Sun and/or Moon are involved. 

With PhotoPills, you enter the date and time, then choose the location where you’ll be sitting, and the app will show you where the sun sits in the sky. If you want to shoot the total solar eclipse with the Statue of Liberty or your favorite local monument, PhotoPills is a must-have. We have more from PhotoPills below. 

What to know about shooting an eclipse with your camera

If you’re in the path of totality within the United States, Canada, or Mexico and want to capture the event, then there are a number of things to do to make sure you’re properly prepared. First, you’ll need to make sure you pack the right kit.

Other than your DSLR, picking the right lens is one of the most important considerations, especially if you have an idea of the type of shot that you want to capture. At the very least, you’ll want a 200mm telephoto lens or, even better, 300mm or longer. This will result in the sun taking up around a fifth of the height of the shot.

On the other end, if you want the total solar eclipse to take up your whole shot, then you’ll need to get a lens with 1,200mm range. This can also be achieved by pairing a telephoto lens with a teleconverter, which is a secondary lens that magnifies the center of your image. So, 1,200mm is possible with a 600mm lens and a 2x teleconverter. Teleconverters add more glass, though, so the shot may not be as bright or sharp as it would be with a dedicated lens. 

Getting the closest possible crop might seem like the best course of action, but there are other things to consider. The first is that the sun’s corona extends beyond the edge of the Sun and the total eclipse, and therefore a tight crop risks cutting off details. The second is that the closer the crop, the more regularly you’ll have to reframe.

To avoid both of these pitfalls, we recommend a lens focal length of between 400-800mm perfect for capturing all the beauty of a total solar eclipse.

For most photography, you’re all set with a DSLR and a lens, but that’s not the case when capturing the total solar eclipse. In the same way that you’ll need solar glasses for your eyes, you’ll also need a solar filter for your lens. This will help you avoid damaging components and ruining sensitive electronic parts.

Solar filters are fitted like any other filter, with a screw-in thread at the end of your lens. They block out enough UV and IR light to not only protect your equipment but also to protect your eyes when looking through the viewfinder.

The first step to finding the perfect filter is to find the diameter of your lens. This number, in mm, will be displayed either on the side or front of the lens and may even be preceded by the Ø symbol.

With all your gear purchased and ready to go, it’s time to make sure everything is clean and free from dust. The last thing you’ll want is a speck of dust ruining that once-in-a lifetime photo. Use a camera cleaning kit, or if you want it done professionally, then it might be worth paying for the service for this special occasion.

Pack your gear into your favorite camera bag, or look at our best camera bags for some ideas. Get to your pre-determined site well ahead of time, set everything up, and wait for the magic to happen.

Step-by-step instructions for shooting an eclipse with your camera

1. Choose your location
By far the easiest way to make sure you’re in the right location is to purchase the Photopills app ($10.99 / £10.99 / AU$14.99). The app includes an incredible augmented reality function that superimposes the moon onto your camera feed. Being able to frame your shot in advance will save you the stress of having to work on the fly. Preparation is key to avoiding missing that special shot, and if you can visit the location ahead of time, then all the better. Position your tripod and lens in your desired location, and make sure your lens is pointing in the correct direction.

2. Set your lens to manual focusing
You may be able to get away with autofocus, but to have maximum control, you are far better off switching to manual focus. By doing this, you’ll avoid the hassle of having to wait for the camera to find focus every time you want to take a snap.

3. Turn off VR/IS
There is no need for your camera to apply vibration reduction or image stabilization when you’re using a tripod. Turning these settings off will result in a better image.

4. Shoot in RAW
If you want to edit your image in post, then give yourself the most dynamic range by shooting in RAW format. This will enable you to adjust highlights, shadows, and the overall exposure in case you don’t capture it perfectly in camera.

5. Choose spot metering
The only bright part of your shot is going to be the sun so make sure you meter on the sun specifically. Any of the other metering modes will struggle to accurately process the frame due to the amount of dark versus light parts.

6. Use aperture priority mode
Switch on your camera and make sure it is set to aperture priority mode. In this mode, all you have to do is set the aperture and the ISO. Your camera will work out the ideal shutter speed for a well-exposed shot. An aperture between f/5.6 and f/8 is ideal. Finally, adjust your ISO so that you get a shutter speed of somewhere between 1/100s and 1/500s. Keep in mind that the higher the ISO, the more noise that will be introduced.

7. Capture the solar eclipse
You are now ready to take some photographs. Use your camera’s self-timer or a remote shutter release to make sure you’re not touching your camera when the shutter is open. Any movement to the camera or tripod when the shutter is open could result in a blurry image.

What to know about shooting an eclipse with your phone

The most important thing to consider when you’re planning to shoot the total solar eclipse with your smartphone is just what sort of image you plan to capture. Even if you have one of the best smartphones with a real optical zoom lens, you won’t come close to making a photograph with an eclipse that dominates the image. 

As we mention above in our camera section, to photograph the eclipse in full view, you’d need a lens with around 1,200mm focal range. The iPhone 15 Pro Max has a 24mm equivalent main lens, and that 5X zoom lens only reaches to around 120mm. Even the 10X zoom lens on the older Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra is equivalent to around 240mm zoom. That’s very impressive for a smartphone, but not adequate for astrophotography.

Instead of trying to capture a close-up of the Sun’s corona, why not use your smartphone for what it does best? Take photos of the entire scene. Take photos of the landscape as the Sun disappears. 

Even better, smartphone cameras are great for taking photos of people. Take photos of all the people around you, staring up at the eclipse with glasses on, wide-eyed with wonder. In 20 years, when the next eclipse rolls around, those are the photos that will be the most interesting: the photos that show what it was like to be there, not the photos that show just the moon and the sun. 

Step-by-step instructions for shooting an eclipse with your phone

1. Use a tripod (even if it’s not really a tripod)
You don’t need a tripod to stabilize your phone, but making sure your camera is steady is the best thing you can do for a sharp shot. On Amazon you can find plenty of options for phone tripods, or if you have a photo tripod you can just get an adapter to hold your phone. If you don’t have a tripod, find an object you can lean your phone against to hold it steady. 

2. Use the camera’s timer
When you tap the shutter button on screen, you can shake the phone, which causes blur. Better to set the timer. Look for the timer on the left side of the camera screen, when you hold your phone sideways (landscape). On iPhone and Galaxy phones, you’ll find a small clock icon that you can tap to set a timer.

3. Attach a solar filter
Normally, your phone can balance a scene with the sun just fine. During an eclipse, when the Moon partially blocks the Sun, your camera will adjust for the dark scene but the Sun will still radiate intense light. The difference can damage your camera sensor, just like it can damage your eyes. When the Moon is not totally blocking the Sun, you need to use a solar filter.

Samsung agrees. Company reps tell me “we encourage the use of a filter to protect your device for extended shots taken before, during, and after the eclipse when using a tripod.” The good news is that you don’t need to buy a special filter for your phone. If you have standard ISO 12312-2 eclipse glasses, you can just tape one of the lenses to the back of your phone. As long as it is covering your phone lens during the eclipse, your phone will be safe.

4. Turn down your exposure
Even during the darkness of the eclipse, the bright light of the Sun’s corona may be overexposed in your shot. You can dial down the exposure on an iPhone. When you focus, a yellow box appears with a small sun icon. Hold the sun icon and drag it down to lower the exposure value (EV).

On Galaxy and other Android phones, you may need to use your camera’s Pro mode. Don’t worry, you won’t have to mess with too many settings. Just look for EV (exposure value) and lower this to a negative number. Lower your exposure until you can see texture on the sun, not just a bright blob of light.

5. Shoot in Night mode during totality
When the sky is dark, Night Mode will help you balance the difference between the eclipse and your surroundings. On the iPhone, Night Mode should activate automatically when your scene gets dark. A special Night Mode icon will appear, and if you tap on the icon you can set the controls for longer or shorter shots.

On Galaxy phones there is a Night Mode you can manually select. On Pixel phones, this is called Night Sight mode. Experiment during the totality of the eclipse to take a variety of photos for the best possible results.

6. Shoot video and photos at the same time
Did you know your phone can shoot video and take photos at the same time? If you start taking a video of the eclipse, you’ll see a white circle appear on the screen. Tap that circle and your iPhone or Android phone will also take a photo, separate from the video. Just remember to use a solar filter when you shoot video before and after totality occurs.

Should I buy a lens attachment for my phone?

Sadly, extra lenses won’t help your smartphone take better eclipse photos. While there are some interesting lens attachments for smartphones, especially the very cool lenses made by Moment, I wouldn’t recommend buying a lens attachment to photograph the solar eclipse. Lens attachments are made to work with the main camera, the 1X zoom lens, so they won’t help take better photos of the eclipse. 

If you attach a lens to the 5X zoom on the iPhone 15 Pro Max or Galaxy S24 Ultra, the image will not be clear because attachment lenses are not made to work with those zoom cameras. The zoom camera leaves too much space between the sensor and the lens, making it hard for the camera to properly focus. Your shot will be blurry. 

Also, adding 2X zoom won’t be enough for great solar photography. To fill your frame with the eclipse, you’d need at least 600mm focal range, and up to 1,200mm would be ideal. The iPhone 15 Pro Max and Galaxy S24 Ultra give you 120mm with 5X zoom, and doubling that would result in 240mm equivalent. That’s nice, but still not close enough for a great, detailed eclipse photo. 

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