Photography

Dazed Club Spotlight: March 2024

Dazed Club Spotlight: March 2024
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In our ongoing series highlighting Dazed Club talent, we meet the emerging Dazed Club photographers to look out for

4April 2024

Dazed Club Spotlight is our monthly series showcasing up-and-coming talent from the Dazed creative community. If you’d like to be featured, download the app HERE and join our community. You just have to post your best project(s) and the Dazed team will take a look – we select one person from the community to spotlight per week.

“I can’t begin to tell you how excited I get when I get to produce a project accompanied by a narrative. As a DIY girl, I find so much joy in imagining, building, and crafting. I prefer creating non-naturalistic scenes that can only be imagined. The complexity of human emotions, behaviour, and thinking fascinates me, so exploring and building a set around what that can look like is my favourite thing to do.

“My main focus in my photography revolves around people. I love getting a feel for my subjects’ moods, states of mind, and personalities. This way, the results are a combination of pre-production, on-set creativity, and the subject’s energy merged. I find it pivotal to leave room for this sort of expression, it allows the final images to have a personality of their own.

I love it when I get the chance to elevate an image with an external medium. I like playing around with 3D computer graphics at any opportunity, this allows me to add new elements and dimensions to my work. On a simpler note, recently I’ve loved experimenting with gel and paper cutouts, placing them in front of my lens for the shot. Getting lost in post-production is also something I tend to do. I often create multiple different versions of an image before I decide which one I am going to use.”

@tangerine_media_

”My practice is focused on capturing the unconventional beauty of the human form. My photography is a mix of documentary and staged portraiture, with a focus on experimentation and intimacy. I’m attracted to the fantasy of fashion and have always loved how it devises entirely new narratives. I frequently return to themes of femininity, queerness, gender fluidity, and the performance of identity. Pushing boundaries and challenging representation in the fashion industry have always played a fundamental role in my work.

“My community is found in my hometown of Bucharest. Our creative scene is filled with fantasy and art, as well as hardship, challenges, and a collective desire to evolve. At the same time, it’s full of ambiguities – there’s a dichotomy between Western ideals and maintaining our Eastern European identity.

“Some of the processes I use in my image-making are experimenting with mediums, mixing analogue and digital photography. I appreciate the uncertainty, almost anxiety of shooting on film, and the rawness of digital techniques, that provide me more of a sense of freedom. I’m very inspired by the past, especially by the 90s, and I like looking back at that era of fashion photography and recreating it in my own way. I find my biggest inspiration in women – women in my life and women I follow – artists, filmmakers, photographers, activists, mothers. There is so much beauty in the resilience of women. For a long time, I photographed men and I tried to challenge ideas and performances of masculinity in my work. Recently, I’ve shifted towards capturing women, influenced by my own journey into womanhood – I found image-making as a platform for self-discovery and exploration.”

@nurstagramx

“I thrive on collaborating with young and emerging talents in Paris, where I’m currently living. I approach each shoot as if I’m preparing a dish; selecting the best ingredients from my surroundings to create a cohesive burst of flavour.

“In terms of process, I shoot both digital and analogue. With digital photography, I enjoy playing with textures during post-production that I create myself. For analogue, I scan the negatives myself to achieve the desired result, which is often a fuzzy depth and painterly quality.

“Currently, I find myself particularly inspired by the analogue process. Scanning the negatives myself allows for a more tactile approach to photography, which helps me refine my image-capturing techniques on set. I view analogue photography more akin to painting; clicking the shutter only when I’m certain I’ve captured an iconic moment!”

@yanniszeggane

“The focus point of my practice is mainly collaborating with friends who have a drive in what they do – whether it be music, fashion or art. My friends really inspire me to develop a concept that suits their body of work, which is always a fun process. My other focus point in my work is the queer London rave scene. The beauty of capturing a candid moment of the girls being their authentic, raw selves and surrounded by love speaks to me more than anything.

“I find endless inspiration by living in a warehouse here in London surrounded by people working across various creative subjects – it’s an environment that makes me more focussed on my craft. Since moving to London at the start of 2023, my work has expanded through the relationships I have made in the queer scene, making connections with people who have similar inspirations as I do. As someone from a small town in Ireland, I didn’t really have that connection to queer culture other than in the Internet realm. A lot of my recent work is usually in collaboration with people I feel most comfortable around, which is very important to me as a developing artist.

“My technique for taking photos is very loose. I don’t necessarily have a strict way of shooting and I’m still constantly learning new techniques and approaches each time I shoot. There’s something so satisfying about not knowing what you’re going to do or encounter when you are in post-production, which is why I like to be loose with the process when taking the photos – it’s more exciting to me that way. I tend to get a lot of my concepts and inspirations around the music I am listening to during that time frame – recently that’s been Arca – who’s a massive and enduring influence in my work – as well as more ambient artists like Chihei Hatakeyama.”

@ciaranstack

How Behind-the-Scenes Content Can Transform Your Photography Business

How Behind-the-Scenes Content Can Transform Your Photography Business

Exploring innovative marketing strategies is essential for any creative professional seeking to stand out in a crowded market. For those behind the lens, finding fresh ways to showcase their work and personality to potential clients has never been more critical. 

Coming to you from Scott Choucino with Tin House Studio, this informative video sheds light on a novel approach to marketing for photographers aiming to differentiate themselves from the competition. Choucino emphasizes the importance of behind-the-scenes content, demonstrating how it can significantly impact client engagement and retention. The video explains that showcasing the personality and work environment of a photographer through behind-the-scenes footage not only makes them more relatable but also highlights the enjoyable atmosphere they create on set. This aspect of marketing is crucial because it often influences a client’s decision to choose one photographer over another, based not just on the quality of work, but on the work experience itself.

Choucino’s narrative further explores the technical and creative layers involved in producing compelling behind-the-scenes content. He details various methods, from simple time-lapses to the more sophisticated use of gimbals for dynamic video footage, illustrating that there are multiple entry points for this marketing strategy regardless of one’s budget. The significance of these methods lies in their ability to convey a story, not just of the product but of the creative process and the people behind it. This strategy not only humanizes the brand but also provides potential clients with a glimpse into the collaborative and creative atmosphere they can expect. Importantly, Choucino discusses how such content can be adapted for different platforms, acknowledging the role of social media in contemporary marketing strategies. Check out the video above for the full rundown from Choucino.

If you would like to learn more about the business of photography, check out “Making Real Money: The Business of Commercial Photography With Monte Isom!”

Celebrating Women’s Impact In Photography: AAP Magazine Winners (25 Pics)

Celebrating Women’s Impact In Photography: AAP Magazine Winners (25 Pics)

“INTERCULTURAL is a conceptually rigorous, painstakingly detailed portfolio exploring conventions of ethnographic perceptions through a series of costumed self-portraiture featuring Raj arrayed in the traditional authentic finery of various regions and nations — India, Pakistan, Japan, Thailand, Portugal, Spain, Greece, Turkey, Eritrea, Morocco, Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Iran, Armenia, Mexico, Hawaii, First Nation, and North America. Her own cross-border heritage and intercontinental family history first inspired her to embark on this serial self-transformation, in which her inviting countenance is revealed

as ethnically morphic as she successively embodies both the epitome and increasing obsolescence of race-based constructs of identity. The larger-than-life scale and the perfect regularity of Raj’s serene gaze and relaxed but formal front-facing pose create a clean, almost classical structure within which comparisons are encouraged, as both differences and similarities are celebrated equally, and attention to detail moves the story forward. In these images, audiences see the artist more deeply and inevitably come to see themselves as well.

‘The intention of INTERCULTURAL is to enlighten cultural ideologies, initiate respect for diversity and unify humanity for a peaceful coexistence worldwide’.”

Philippa Snow on why celebrities should be considered fine art objects

Philippa Snow on why celebrities should be considered fine art objects

The writer’s new book, Trophy Lives, asks us not to ignore celebrities, but to view them as the performance artists that they are

4April 2024

Earlier this week (April 2), Forbes released their list of the world’s celebrity billionaires in 2024. Amidst already-known celebrity billionaires like Jay-Z and Kim Kardashian, singer-songwriter Taylor Swift joined the list in what Forbes described as an “amazing year for rich people”. Publications like The Cut joined in on the festivities, captioning their Instagram post on the topic “Taylor Swift is in her Billionaire Era.” It’s difficult, during times of war, mass starvation, and growing wealth inequality, not to feel enraged when stories like this go viral. While the cost of living crisis continues to cripple ordinary people, the rich are getting richer. As that dichotomy continues to exist, it’s easy to understand why individuals want to ignore celebrities or want the concept of celebrity to be abolished.

But how useful is it to just ignore them? The more we investigate why they are the way they are and how they elicit such visceral responses from us, the more we can empower ourselves to feel less envious of what they have and what we lack. “There is something self-abnegating about the desire to be a very famous person,” writes Philippa Snow in her thought-provoking new book Trophy Lives: On the Celebrity as an Art Object. “Requiring a saint-like level of devotion to personal transformation, sometimes extending to mutilation and self-sacrifice. In spite of authenticity supposedly being a quality that is prized in public figures, many of them only manage to perform it through the dissociative splitting of their minds.”

Part of MACK’s DISCOURSE series, Snow’s Trophy Lives questions whether celebrities can exist as more than just a muse to others; if they are, in fact, self-authored artworks in and of themselves. Rather than just blaming celebrities (stick with me), Snow presents thrilling arguments on the role we play as an audience in the construction of celebrities and the influence that has on their artistic creation of self.

Below, Snow discusses how beauty can make us lazy as critics, how writing this text challenged her preconceived notions about celebrities, and how race impacts the way celebrities construct themselves.

This may be an over-generalisation because I low-key hate celebrities, but I think it’s becoming more apparent that people (online anyway) hate celebrities, especially in the context of the cost of living crisis and the genocide in Palestine. Dazed readers never miss an opportunity to remind us of this in our IG comments, fervently encouraging us to ignore them. But Trophy Lives is an exploration of the celebrity as an art object, and it’s evident in your discussions of celebrities that you see these individuals as worthy of examination. Why is that, and what sparked your interest in this topic?

Philippa Snow: I’m glad you brought this up because, obviously, the length of time it takes to pitch, write and publish a book means that you are never certain which historical moment it will be born into, and seeing an image of a red carpet gown on the same social media feed as, for instance, a photograph of a dead Palestinian child certainly throws into sharp relief how little famous people matter in the widest possible context. When over two million people are on the verge of starvation in Gaza, who cares who’s using Ozempic in Hollywood, you know?

That caveat aside: whether or not you or I as individuals are interested in them, celebrities are an enduring phenomenon, and part of the continuation of that phenomenon is of course for the sake of escapism, because the world at large is so full of terrible cruelty. Like everyone else who leaves their home and has access to the internet, I’ve spent my life ambiently surrounded by these people, and I guess the book is about trying to find a new way of understanding them and what they do for their fans. The notion that they’re ‘just like us’ but also, paradoxically, better and more important at the same time is fascinating to me because it means that merely by existing, they’re doing what fine art is meant to do: they’re taking things we feel and experience and heightening them into something almost abstracted and symbolic, and then reflecting them back at us.

I loved your observation about celebrities and artworks not being taken seriously enough when they’re beautiful. The example you used was about Jude Law, who got much more interesting acting roles when his hair began to thin and his eyes crinkled. Why do you think beauty makes us lazy as consumers and critics? 

Philippa Snow: I think we associate beauty with a certain emptiness: life is obviously more frictionless for people who meet traditional beauty standards, so we think of them as playing it on easy mode and thus as not having much depth. Also, perhaps we don’t like to imagine them as cunning. There’s this idea that ‘God doesn’t give with both hands’, as I’ve seen people put it, and that you can’t be gorgeous and smart – or, if not smart, then savvy. But savviness is the reason a lot of these individuals have made it and the reason they have such well-refined public images. There are plenty of very hot people who aren’t A-Listers or, well, Kardashians.

Did writing this extended text challenge your preconceptions about celebrities?

Philippa Snow: It altered the way I think about celebrities because it becomes much harder to compare yourself to these people once you start really taking notice of all the construction, all the graft, that goes into that illusion of perfection. It becomes easier to see that they are merely providing a service by working on themselves in that manner, whether it’s a service we personally appreciate or not. And it’s a big, often lifelong commitment! I think there was something weirdly freeing about accepting the pursuit of these aesthetics as something totally alien, totally separate from me – as extreme and as durational as what performance artists are doing in galleries.

We love to talk about celebrities setting unrealistic beauty standards, but in Trophy Lives, you don’t stop at that argument. You highlight how, before Instagram, we were inundated with unflattering images of celebrities on nights out drunk or high through sites like TMZ. Instagram gave them space to carefully curate their images and become flawless. Can you speak more about Instagram’s impact on transforming celebrities into artists and art objects?

Philippa Snow: I came of age in the 00s, which was the era of size zero and also of the birth of TMZ, which meant an explosion of tabloid material that showed celebrities – if we’re honest, primarily female celebrities – in the most unflattering light possible. Obviously, there’s been a lot of hand-wringing from the media at large since then about this period of time, but it was… unedifying to live through, to say the least. When I think of the effect watching all that play out had on me as a resolutely unfamous teenager living in a bungalow in Bournemouth, I find it easy to understand the allure for them of a new platform that allowed them to beam images of themselves looking exactly as they’d like into people’s homes.

Celebrities have always worked with magazines and photographers, but I don’t know if they’ve ever had a more direct connection with fans than they’ve had since the advent of image-driven social media. MySpace existed first, sure, but Instagram has always had this sheen of polished aspiration around it, and being directly connected to the user’s phone made it easier to project a degree of intimacy and immediacy. It encourages you to be the author of your own image in a very particular way.

Do you still think Instagram has the same impact today in myth-making for this new generation of celebrities? People like Zendaya or Timothée Chalamet use the app infrequently compared to the Kardashians back in the day.

Philippa Snow: I have thought about this. It’s now getting quite chic and enviable to not be on social media at all. I wonder whether young stars not using Instagram is partly to do with the way that we’re all so much more aware of the possibilities of image manipulation now, especially in the context of ‘candid’ photos, so the advantages it used to provide are no longer as evident. It’s also not the ‘youngest’ social media platform anymore, which isn’t something I can speak about with much authority because I’m in my thirties. Maybe also, Instagram circa 2024 is too much about making regular people into microcelebrities, and as such, it’s lost its glamour for the freshest members of the A-list. Maybe the next trend will be being utterly reclusive and mysterious – call it Garbo-core.

I found your discussion about race and how it intersects with art objects fascinating. You highlight how Andy Warhol transformed himself through plastic surgery, white-blonde wigs and a name alteration to be the ‘right’ kind of white and arguably a more desirable celebrity and piece of art. Can you speak more about how race impacts how celebrities construct themselves for an audience?

Philippa Snow: This is a subject that would more easily lend itself to another 20,000-word essay than an answer in a Q&A, but the short way of addressing it is to say that it certainly has an enormous impact. Who we elevate to the position of the A-list has a lot to do with who we – and when I say ‘we’, I’m talking about the culture in the broadest possible sense – believe is beautiful, and believe is the ‘right’ kind of person to be placed in the public eye. Because of the world we live in, that typically means people who are white, cis, able-bodied, and with a body that fits one of a few types: thin, very fit, or curvaceous in a very specific way. That’s changing, but it’s changing slowly, and not always in a completely linear fashion.

For instance, I talk a bit in the book about Kim Kardashian and the ongoing discussion around her adoption of physical characteristics that, due to these narrow white-supremacist ideas about beauty, have been treated as undesirable traits when seen on the bodies of Black women, and yet have become ‘trends’ once Kim has displayed them. Again, as with looking at the artificiality of the way celebrities construct themselves in general, I think the more we consider the arbitrariness and the abject fucking stupidity of a beauty standard that elevates whiteness above everything else, the better. It’s like looking behind the curtain in The Wizard of Oz – hopefully, the illusion starts to fall to pieces.

Trophy Lives is published by Mack Books and is available for purchase now

Louisville photographer excited to capture solar eclipse

Louisville photographer excited to capture solar eclipse

LOUISVILLE, Ky. — The total solar eclipse passing over parts of Kentucky is just days away, and for anyone hoping to successfully capture the eclipse, there are few photography tips that will help.


What You Need To Know

  • Millions of Americans are expected to take in April 8th solar eclipse 
  • The path of totality will pass over far western Kentucky and central Indiana
  • Ayrica Bishop, a photographer who works at Murphy’s Camera in Louisville, shared some of her advice for capturing the eclipse with a camera
  • Cameras require special equipment to capture the sun; without it, you may damage your camera or hurt your eyes

Recently Spectrum News 1 visited Murphy’s Camera in Louisville to visit with a photographer excited to capture the celestial event. Ayrica Bishop is a lifelong photographer and education coordinator for Murphy’s Camera. Bishop captured her first solar eclipse in 2017 and is preparing for the upcoming eclipse.

“You’re going to see even more of the flares,” Bishop said of the impending event. 

When it comes to photographing an eclipse, not every camera or lens is created equal according to Bishop.

“This is a 150-600 (lens). That would be a great lens to have,” she said, referring to one of the telephoto zoom lenses they sell, designed to capture objects from great distances.

Lately, social media and news sites have been featuring amazing photos of past eclipses.The way a photographer can produce that image is with a telephoto lens or a spotting scope. These are heavy duty piece of camera equipment that carry quite the price. Even used versions of these types of lense can cost hundreds of dollars.

The moon covers the sun during a total eclipse Monday, Aug. 21, 2017, in Cerulean, Ky. (AP Photo/Timothy D. Easley)

The helpful part about photographing the eclipse, while in totality a solar filter is not required. However, shooting a partial eclipse without a special filter can damage your camera’s sensor and your eyes. But what about taking pictures with your phone at totality?

“Not really, because it’s just going to be a white ring. That’s all you’re going to see. So you really won’t see anything,” Bishop explained.

Murphy’s Camera is a very popular place this time of year, with a certain horse race approaching that is widely photographed and the store’s rental lenses have long been booked for April 8. Even their viewing glasses are sold out.

If you still needed viewing glasses, you better move quick if buying online. Of course, if you are in the path of totality, for those four minutes or so you can safely view the eclipse with the naked eye. No accessories needed.

Bishop will be in Indiana hoping to capture more amazing photos. Conveniently enough, Bishop’s brother lives in the path of totality.

Club to hear about nature photography

Club to hear about nature photography

The April 9 meeting of the Grand Canyon Photography will feature a presentation on nature photography by member and author Brad Adams.

The program will begin at 7 p.m. at the Gmeiner Art & Cultural Center in Wellsboro after a short business meeting.

When asked to describe his program, Adams said, “My presentation will concentrate on composition and DSLR camera usage. I will be using my book as a reference and also physical prints displaying specific topics being presented. I have great respect for nature and believe in preserving it for future generations. My hope is to entice the audience to explore the wilds of Pennsylvania with a new view and a new found respect for nature.”

Adams career started with teaching graphic arts and photography at Pequea Valley High School in Lancaster County for 15 years. It was during that time he started his photography business, Brad Adams Photography, primarily photographing weddings and family portraits.

He continued his teaching career at Thaddeus Stevens College in the visual field for 19 years. During that time he developed a passion for nature photography and published a book titled “The Nature of Photography.”

The Forgotten Twin Photographers Who Redefined Mid-Century Style

The Forgotten Twin Photographers Who Redefined Mid-Century Style

We left the middle of the 20th century behind decades ago, but the aesthetic of the time has remained a presence in countless ways — from the continued impact of mid-century modern furniture to the evocative fashion worn by people of the period. When considering that enduring look, it’s also worth discussing the people who brought that aesthetic into focus — literally, in some cases.

In her new book Double Click: Twin Photographers in the Golden Age of Magazines, Carol Kino tells the story of twin sisters Frances and Kathryn McLaughlin, who made names for themselves with their photographic skills, as their work was well-represented in the publications of the time. It’s a fascinating look at the middle ground between art and commerce, with numerous insights into how the sisters helped the form evolve.

Throughout Double Click, the twins’ paths overlap with a host of historical figures, from Benjamin Oliver Davis Jr. of the Tuskegee Airmen to F. Scott Fitzgerald. And some of the small details — including the post-World War II market for mass-market personal airplanes — make this trip back in time rewarding in some unexpected ways. Kino spoke with InsideHook about the book’s genesis, why the twins’ story remains relevant today and the archival research needed to make Double Click a reality.

InsideHook: Double Click opens with the McLaughlin twins being interviewed by Dick Cavett and being given comparable treatment to the likes of Toni Morrison and Federico Fellini. Both of those artists are still revered today, while the twins are likely not as familiar to readers in 2024. How did you first come to encounter their work and decide that they would be good subjects for a book?

Carol Kino: I have a friend who’s a publicist, and she works with a lot of photography galleries. So she told me about a show involving one of the twins, Franny or Frances, and her husband. It was a show of their work and their contemporaries, who were people like Man Ray, Erwin Blumenfeld and André Kertész. She convinced me to write about the show, and she also told me that there was a twin, and the whole family were photographers. So I wrote a couple of stories about that show.

Then at the opening, there was a small gallery devoted to family photos, and I just became completely entranced since they were all photographers. The photos were fantastic. They were also friends with Irving Penn and his wife Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn, so there were a lot of photos of the Penns, photos that Lisa had taken of them. In that show, I met the son of one of the photographers who told me his grandfather had been a famous photographer.

It just seemed like a great story, first of all. Then while researching the original stories, I discovered that there had been many photographer couples during this period, which was fascinating to me — and sometimes the women had been more successful than the men. That also seemed really interesting, too — that they’d been successful and we didn’t know about them today.

Besides the photographers who you mentioned just now, Diane Arbus shows up in the narrative, Gordon Parks has a brief appearance towards the end — there’s this dizzying array of important figures in photography throughout the book.

It was also this really interesting period when European refugees were flooding into America. Americans were already trying to figure out what American art is going to be in relation to Europe. Europe had always dominated America. But Americans in painting and in photography were trying to determine what is an American art, and then these European refugees were arriving, so they were trying to figure this out, too. That was so interesting to me because I’m first-generation American, so I grew up trying to figure out, what’s a real American? I was kind of intrigued by all of these Europeans and Americans asking this question at the same time. 

The subtitle of your books uses the phrase “the golden age of magazines.” How did you determine what that timeframe was going to be like?

I think we kind of massaged the “golden age” for the purposes of the book. I think it’s debatable what the golden age was. It’s probably not right now, with magazines shutting down, but it’s debatable. I think there are exciting things happening on the web. 

I read so many magazines for this book and it was such an exciting time when photography started being introduced into these magazines and there was a different visual look to every issue. Things weren’t art-directed to the hilt. You could do something different every month. Photographers were allowed to take their own creative course. So I guess I think the golden age also went on into the 1950s and the 1960s. But it was really particularly creative during this 1930s, 1940s and early 1950s phase, I would say.

If I remember my art history somewhat correctly, in the second half of the 20th century, there was a fairly sizable sea change where photography began being viewed more as an art form in and of itself. Do you think if that had been more of an option earlier, the McLaughlin twins might have been somewhat better known? If they had had more opportunities to explore the fine art world?

Yeah, maybe. I think it was the 1970s when it started becoming perceived as an art form. I think they were always thinking about art, but I don’t think they necessarily expected what they did to become art. I think fashion photography as art happened quite a bit later, so I don’t know that they would have made the case for themselves making art. 

Franny, the one who worked at Condé Nast, developed dementia. So at the time that fashion photography started becoming considered art, she wasn’t in a position to promote her own work. I think that’s why she kind of missed the boat of being considered a great artist — which I think one could make the case that she is.

In the acknowledgements for Double Click, you thanked a lot of members of their families and extended families. Were the families all very supportive of the project? 

Yes, they were all into it. They didn’t always move at the same pace. I mean, I find when you’re writing journalism, people do call you back pretty quickly. When you’re writing a book — this is not necessarily the family — but I found people often say things like, “Oh yeah, when I go through my attic next summer, if I happen to find those pictures, I’ll get back to you.” So a lot of those people I had to give up on. Everything moves at a slower pace when you’re working on a book.

Kathryn’s family, the Abbes, amazingly gave me the key to their storage space. I was going there with Kathryn’s assistant, Chris. I went there with him in the beginning, and then they let me go there by myself, which was great because there were so many newspaper clippings that I needed to look at in detail, and it was hard to do that when I was chatting with Chris, who’s a really fun person.

The other twin’s archives are still in her apartment, and her grandson lives with them, so it wasn’t as accessible. But, yeah, they made it relatively easy for me to get at everything.

Were most of the archives you were going through familial and personal collections, or were you also going into magazine and newspaper archives?

I had a fellowship at the New York Public Library, a Cullman Fellowship, and not everything was there, remarkably, but the librarians there really helped me. One of the things that I needed to find was the first teen or college magazine, which was College Bazaar. A lot of the magazines had not been digitized, so I had to page through them and scan them for my own reference.

Mademoiselle and Charm are in the New York Public Library, not digitized. Glamour they did not have, so I had to go to the Condé Nast archives for that. I paged through 15 years’ worth of magazines for each of those, I think, which was really overwhelming. But College Bazaar did not exist — anywhere — and that was a real problem that the librarians at the New York Public Library helped me solve. We eventually found it in a library miscatalogued. It was just incredible.

The twins studied at Pratt, which turned out to have had one of the first photo labs in a school in America. I thought I would go to Pratt and say, “So tell me when it started.” And they said, “You’re welcome to go through all the school newspapers” — which had not been digitized at that point. “You’re welcome to go through all the school catalogs. You’re welcome to go through the faculty minutes.” I kept coming up against these subjects that nobody happened to have studied. I was just so depressing and daunting. I had this iPhone that I digitized all of those things with. 

Then I’d call up photo historians and say, “Do you know the history of Pratt?” And they’d say, “Isn’t that interesting? Nobody’s studied that. Isn’t that fascinating?” There was no way to go but forward if I wanted to fulfill my contract and write the book.

You mention in Double Click there was a magazine that was for winners of the contest to find the most talented college students. I was just amazed that there was a magazine with this very limited, very specific audience.

I think that was Smart Girl. I discovered that really early on by going to the Condé Nast archives. I had done research into the Prix de Paris, which was this famous prize that Vogue did. I think it started in 1935. It was a great competition.

There were lots of competitions for college-age girls at that time. The Prix de Paris was the grande dame of all these competitions. Joan Didion did it. Sylvia Plath. I think Ann Beattie did it. A lot of people. Meg Wolitzer, I think. I get it mixed up because Mademoiselle had these competitions, too. But I think that was the one. Jackie Kennedy — Jackie Bouvier at the time.

The person who was managing the archives had done research into that for her master’s thesis, I think. I don’t think anyone had looked at it since then. So in these archives, I discovered this magazine called Smart Girl. I just discovered several issues of this magazine and digitized them with my trusty iPhone, and there was tons of really interesting information in there.

Some of the other details that you share in the book about post-World War II society really floored me. I had no idea that there was a consumer market for private airplanes for commuters, for instance. 

All of this military equipment was being sold in department stores. Jeeps. Not guns, but other, more domestic kinds of equipment. I think Macy’s seventh floor had the airplane department. So the elevator operators would say, “Ladies’ lingerie, planes,” which was so wonderful.

It was this plane that steered like a car. I think they’d been developing it before the war, but then resources had to be diverted to the military. Then, after the war, there was all this money. America wasn’t in a depression mode anymore. Kathryn, the other twin, saved up her money during the war and bought her husband an engagement present of a plane. She said that’s why he married her. So they had a plane to fly between Montauk and all of their different jobs. 

There are also eerie echoes of the present day when you mention that, during that period, the marriage rate was going down in part because people had concerns over money. That felt very familiar.

Yeah, didn’t so much of it seem like today? I thought it was so relevant. And those essays by F. Scott Fitzgerald’s daughter — I loved that essay where she says, “Our profligate Jazz Age parents just don’t know the score, but we do.” She sounded like somebody complaining about her lousy Boomer parents. I just love that part.

You said you wrote a little bit about the sisters before starting work on this book. How much of this milieu were you aware of initially and how much did you have to discover on your own?

A lot of it was discovery on my own. In retrospect, it’s really interesting. As I was doing it, it was kind of painful because there was so much detective work. When I first met Kathryn’s youngest son, he actually turned out to live about 15 minutes away from my parents in California. Later on his mother became a very well-known photographer of children and he had these Better Homes and Gardens baby books that both twins had worked on. I couldn’t believe that his mother had photographed a lot of famous pharmaceutical ads that I’d seen growing up. I couldn’t believe how influential — I mean, those ads were part of my childhood — I just couldn’t believe the important role they played in society without me having been aware of it.

As you mentioned towards the end of the book, there have been periodic upticks in interest in the twins. Is there a hope that this book will also spark another revival and pique more interest in their work as well?

Definitely. I hope that it does. It seems to me that it’s kind of a missed opportunity if it doesn’t. I think it should, especially for the women who did not get any of the recognition that’s due to them.

It was also very interesting, as you pointed out a few times, that they were from much more of a working-class background than a lot of their peers.

They really did come along at a time when the aristocrats had been taking photographs — or people who added aristocratic names to or used their title as photographers. It was a moment when the career girl was being celebrated and these were genuine career girls, who took the subway to work every day, which was not the case for the female photographers who’d come before them.

This interview has been condensed and edited for length and clarity.

‘I saw hip-hop street style and cowboy culture merge. I felt I belonged’: Ivan McClellan on his images of America’s Black cowboys

‘I saw hip-hop street style and cowboy culture merge. I felt I belonged’: Ivan McClellan on his images of America’s Black cowboys

For a man who spends a lot of time around horses, Ivan McClellan isn’t much of a rider. “The last feedback I got was that I sit on a horse like a sack of potatoes,” he says. “I’m also a big fella, so people always put me on the biggest horse they have, some giant dinosaur of a horse. A fall from that height would be devastating, so I’m nervous. The horse knows I’m nervous. There’s a lot of work I need to do.”

Since 2015, when McClellan first attended the Roy LeBlanc Invitational in Okmulgee, Oklahoma, “the Super Bowl of Black rodeos”, the US photographer’s name has become synonymous with Black cowboy culture in the country.

“It was a culture I knew nothing about,” McClellan says. “I saw young men riding horses around with no shirt on, wearing diamond stud earrings, gold chains and Jordans. I saw women with braids and long acrylic nails riding 50mph. People were frying chicken, barbecuing, dancing … There was gospel music, R&B and hip-hop in the air. It was an incredible, otherwordly experience.”

For McClellan, who grew up in Kansas City but moved to Portland, Oregon in 2011, Black cowboy culture provided a sense of community he’d been lacking. “I saw all these Black folks who were so cool, with hip-hop culture and street style and cowboys – which I loved since I was a kid – all merged together,” he says. “I felt I belonged. It’s changed my life. Finding this subject matter and getting obsessed with it has been the most rewarding artistic journey of my entire life. I’ve made lifelong friendships and it has become part of my identity.”

McClellan’s obsession has taken him to events across the US, from Nevada to Tennessee. His photos have been collected in his new book Eight Seconds: Black Cowboy Culture, named after the time a bull rider must stay mounted on a bucking bull to achieve a qualified ride. Not everyone is happy for the white cowboy archetype to be disrupted, however. “I got a mysterious phone call the other day where somebody said: ‘Hey, is this the monkey rodeo? I want to open a crack booth,’” McClennan says. “There’s a simmering hatred that I have to just ignore, because for as many people who are offended by talking about Black cowboys and Black rodeo, there are 10 times as many who are thrilled.”

As Charles Sampson, the first African American cowboy to win a world championship in professional rodeo, writes in the book’s introduction, the history of Black cowboys has been “all but forgotten. Legendary western figures such as Bass Reeves, Bill Pickett, Stagecoach Mary and Nat Love have been left out of films and history books.”

“I think it’s due to laziness and what’s marketable,” McClellan says. “The Hollywood machine is about getting people to the movie theatre. I love westerns. The archetype of the noble white cowboy is one I love. I just want to expand that and say there’s more going on.”

McClennan, 41, started out photographing weddings, fashion and street photography before immersing himself in Black cowboy culture. He divides his time between photography and a full-time job as a designer for Adobe Lightroom photography software.

He has also become a rodeo boss, having organised the first 8 Seconds Juneteenth Rodeo in Portland in 2023, which is set to return this summer. By working on events such as this, he is hoping to encourage support for Black cowboy culture, which he sees dwindling across the country. “It has a very difficult future,” he says. “It’s super-expensive to get into ranching or stock-contracting, and when you have a population of 35,000 people across America who are Black and participate in western culture, it’s really noticeable that you see fewer each year. I feel a sense of urgency. To lose this culture would be a tragedy.”

Eight Seconds: Black Rodeo Culture by Ivan McClellan is published by Damiani (£40).

Another country: five images from Ivan McClellan’s Eight Seconds

Keary Hines, Prairie View, Texas, 2021 (main image, top)
“Hines is a calf-roper. He has struggled, like a lot of Black cowboys, to support his lifestyle and compete at the level he wants to. He’s the definition of cowboy cool with his swagger, the rope around his shoulder, and two horses that he’s completely in control of.”

Pony Express, Okmulgee, Oklahoma, 2021
“I’m in the arena for this photo, standing on the dirt. These two riders are competing in an event called Pony Express, which is a baton relay race on horseback around the arena,” says McClellan. “I’m too close in this photo, so I’m a little bit nervous. The photo is blurry and technically a mess, but it ended up being the cover of my book, because it’s just got so much energy.”

Cowboy prayer, Okmulgee, Oklahoma, 2020
“This is a Pony Express team called Southside. The beauty of Okmulgee’s rodeo is that it starts exactly at sundown, so the lighting is just perfect all the time. In this photo, the skies are interesting – the sun has just gone down and there’s a pink haze. The riders are about to go and compete, they’re all on horseback and holding hands to pray for their safety. Pony Express is a dangerous sport so this prayer is really serious for them.”

Ja’Dayia Kursh, Oklahoma, 2021
“This is a cowgirl called Ja’Dayia Kursh. She’s got a little bit of dirt on her knee, which is the only indication that she just got bucked off a horse. I love her swagger and her energy. I love that she’s still posing like a rodeo queen, even though she just did something completely badass.”

Dantez and Floss, Okmulgee, Oklahoma, 2020
“Dantez is the man standing and Floss is the one on horseback. They are father and son, and they’re on a Pony Express team called the Country Boyz. I meet them every single year at the rodeo at this exact spot at this exact time. This is where they park, saddle up their horses and get ready for the competition.”

Night sky photography exhibit

Night sky photography exhibit

Photos from Travis Novitsky’s book “Spirits Dancing” explore the wonders of the night sky 

Beginning on April 10, guests at the Mille Lacs Indian Museum and Trading Post will have the opportunity to admire a special exhibit featuring 15 stunning photographs of northern Minnesota’s night sky.

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Inside Gabriel Moses’ Evocative Debut Photography Book, Regina

Inside Gabriel Moses’ Evocative Debut Photography Book, Regina

April 04, 2024

Lead ImageReplica Man Magazine, 2022 © Gabriel Moses, Prestel

The word “regina” has long resonated with photographer Gabriel Moses. It has featured countless times as a caption on Moses’ Instagram alongside his characteristically atmospheric images, and was the title of his debut exhibition at 180 The Strand in London just last year, which showcased over 50 photographs from his work across fashion, music, and sport. Now, Regina is the title of his first monograph, over 230 full-page reproductions that celebrate his enormous catalogue of work to date. “[Regina] means queen in Latin, while still sounding like the name of a woman,” Moses writes in the book’s foreword. “It was my way of expressing gratitude to the women who have shaped the way I see the world – that’s my grandmother, mum, sister, my nieces – they all shaped my approach and my values.”

Looking through Regina, it’s clear the book is a creative homage to the women in Moses’ life. Among photographs of Pharrell Williams and Skepta, there are handwritten notes by his mother stating the love she has for her son, and text written by Ari Chanoux inspired by Moses’ appreciation for his mum in return: “Mumsy, it was never mine / always ours / never a second / always hours.” The book is both dazzlingly spectacular and intensely intimate – with screen grabs of Spotify songs, Instagram messages, and drawings by friends like artist Olaolu Slawn distributed throughout the pages.

Moses has always had a clear vision; one born from community. What started as short films of his friends on football pitches at 17 years old has landed him commissions with Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Chanel, Moncler and even AnOther. His style is unmistakable: rich, vibrant, and narrative-driven. His images regularly show people mid-action – be it with a gun, in the bath, or during a basketball game – and are often accompanied by short cinematic vignettes that offer greater insight into his evocative world. Even when models are facing the camera, Moses shows them to be thoughtful, assured, and at ease.

In just eight years, Moses has established himself as one of fashion’s most promising and most authentic young photographers – he is, after all, just 25. “My mum would show me a lot of old family photos and I loved many of the details of those images,” he says. “I’d also say my community plays a big part. I bring a lot of my identity to my work and that was shaped by my surroundings.”

For Moses, context matters, and Regina offers a multifaceted look at his body of work through contributions from collaborators. The book includes essays by the likes of Federico Sargentone, conversations between the photographer and Skepta and Nick Knight respectively, as well as personal accounts by Matthew Williams, Ciesay, Clint, Samuel Ross, Slawn, and Katja Horvat, who edited the book and worked closely with Moses throughout its creation. “I’ve been blessed enough to have a large catalogue of imagery in the time I’ve been doing this,” he said. “The biggest challenge was communicating it to everyone in what we felt would allow someone to walk away understanding what this is I’m trying to build.”

In more ways than one, Moses has already succeeded in building a whole universe – one that allows for the existence of complex characters informed by both remembrance and reverie. Regina is a testament to this unwavering vision. “For a long time I’ve been focused on world-building and creating a visual language that spoke for me and [that] people could see themselves in, [so] it was important for me to be able to bottle that up. That’s what you see within the pages of this book,” Moses says. “I see myself as an artist. I want people to feel that.”

Regina by Gabriel Moses is published by Prestel, and is out now.