Photography

This Book Is an Ambitious Survey of Sport on the African Continent

This Book Is an Ambitious Survey of Sport on the African Continent

“Africa is everywhere and Africa is influencing everything,” says Peet Pienaar, editor of Afrosport, a fascinating survey of sport, photography, design, and culture across the continent

January 12, 2024

It’s undeniable: this will be the African’s century. There’s an emerging “youthquake” on the continent; by 2050, one in three people aged 15-24 will be African. African youth are and will continue to shape global culture across the disciplines of fashion, music, and art. Shape, not just influence. That’s a key distinction. African culture – especially when it comes to the discipline of design – has been historically undervalued, mostly seen as something to reference or even appropriate but rarely attributed to or taken seriously on its own terms. Afrosport, the follow-up to Afrosurf – the first book to explore the untold history of surf culture in Africa – seeks to change that, using the realm of sport to “celebrate African design as self-possessed in its own right” beyond “Western expectations”.

Designed and edited by Mami Wata co-founder Peet Pienaar, Afrosport is extensive and encyclopedic in scope. It offers a fascinating survey of sport across the continent, from the flatland BMX scene in Ghana to ram fighting in Nigeria. The book features a roster of excellent contributors – including a forward by two-time NBA All-Star Joakim Noah – as well as a diverse array of visual and graphic material that spans 12 recipes and a photo comic. Highlights include a detailed map underscoring the complex array of languages and ethnic groups found on the continent and an intersecting timeline of major political, social, and sporting events throughout history.

On the book’s design,  Pienaar says “it needed to say sport and Africa”. “For me, design is always linked to something,” he adds. “Design is so important in sport. It comes from a very real place. European designers would say most of the things I talk about would be vernacular design. I wanted to deliberately walk away from that. In a European sense, people would say, ‘This is not design, this is not part of design, these people didn’t study design.’ And for me, that’s one of the main things that I want to break away [from] and make everyone who creates something, or becomes linked to design, a designer.” Afrosport highlights unsung figures in sports and design history, including Theodosia Okoh, the designer of Ghana’s iconic national flag who also happened to be a hockey player.

There’s a particular sensibility one finds in Africa, a DIY spirit that emerges out of necessity and an entrepreneurial mindset. Taking something and infusing it with something else in a way that shouldn’t work, or that you would never think of but somehow does. The commercialised, mass-market generality of say the Nike swoosh becomes filtered through hyper-specific local cultures and personal tastes. “There’s a visual play with Western symbols and information,” explains Pienaar. “It’s very poetic and intentional. But it’s completely going above the heads of Western design or Western visual culture.” Take Matatu culture in Nairobi, for example, which “involves aspects of graphic design, car culture, music, fashion, and performance.” The name derives from the emergence of privately-owned minibus taxis in the city. Drivers deck out their vans to stand out among their competitors; like the Arsenal shirt you wear, the matatu you ride signifies your “status, identity, and political affiliation”. 

Where does this innovation come from? In Afrosport, Sandy Alibo of Surf Ghana writes of a need “to astonish everyone”. In the world of African sports, this need for astonishment is plainly evident in diski, a style of football played in South Africa that’s not necessarily about scoring goals but rather how the player can intimidate or embarrass his opponents through performance. “People [got] bored with football, so they said let’s make it better, let’s make it cooler, let’s make it more interesting,” Pienaar elaborates. “And that for me is something that happens in music, design, and fashion. People really push the envelope to be seen but also because they’re a little bit bored of what they see.”

Despite the constant reinvention happening on the continent, African culture is subject to persistent tropes and misconceptions, one major one being an image of Africa that can only be found in the past. “When you talk about design in Africa, everyone thinks about traditional or rural designs,” Pienaar says. “There’s a massive disconnect. But culture is always alive. It always moves forward.” For contemporary African designers, that disconnect can be frustrating or alienating. “A lot of African designers don’t necessarily feel they can associate with very traditional design,” adds Pienaar. “It’s been centuries. It’s so old it doesn’t even connect with them anymore. Even if they’re part of that culture, they don’t feel they can work with that because it’s so back in time. It’s almost the same as people only being inspired by the Renaissance in Europe. You can’t just stop there.” Afrosport refreshingly challenges this notion, in both subject matter and design. 

“I think what people will realise from the book is the influence of Africa at the moment on the world culture and diaspora. Africa is everywhere and Africa is influencing everything,” says Pienaar. When it comes to sports, it is a field that will undoubtedly be dominated by Africans. “It’s time that Africa steps forward with design and says, we will decide how we design our sport. We will decide how we design the things we wear. But it won’t be coming just from Nike, or from someone else being put onto [us], but it will actually be determined through Africans.”

Afrosport is published by Mami Wata, and is available for pre-order now.

Hard Photography Truths to Help You Start 2024 Right

Hard Photography Truths to Help You Start 2024 Right

As we step into 2024, photographers and content creators are faced with a familiar New Year’s resolution: declaring this year as “their year.” But as any experienced photographer will tell you, progress in the creative field is more complex than just a declaration. It involves confronting harsh truths, adapting to changes, and continuous learning.

Coming to you from Evan Ranft, this insightful video outlines critical lessons for photographers aiming to thrive in 2024. One of the key points discussed is the inevitable integration of social media into a photographer’s career. Ranft emphasizes the choice photographers must make: to either embrace social media as part of their business model or consciously decide to operate outside of it. This perspective is vital in today’s digital age, where social media’s role in business success cannot be ignored. Another significant aspect covered is the burgeoning importance of video content. For photographers looking to expand their services, understanding basic videography has become essential. This skill set not only broadens the scope of potential projects but also adds significant value to a photographer’s portfolio.

Adapting to these changes, however, is not just about skill enhancement. It also involves a mental shift. Ranft underlines the need for photographers to understand their “why” – the core reason behind their pursuit of photography. This introspective approach helps in aligning one’s work with personal values and missions, thus driving more meaningful and fulfilling career progress. Check out the video above for the full rundown from Ranft.

Ben Whishaw Cast as Acclaimed Photographer Peter Hujar in Upcoming Biopic

Ben Whishaw Cast as Acclaimed Photographer Peter Hujar in Upcoming Biopic
Ben Whishaw (left) has been cast as photographer Peter Hujar (right) in Self-Portrait Standing (1980)

Paddington star Ben Whishaw has been cast as iconic photographer Peter Hujar, who died of AIDS in 1987, in an upcoming biopic.

According to Deadline, Whishaw will star as Hujar in an “intimate” movie directed by Ira Sachs about the life of the late American photographer.

The currently untitled film will cover Hujar’s career photographing queer life in New York City during the 1970s and 1980s.

Deadline reports that the movie had been scheduled to begin shooting in November 2023 but was delayed due to last year’s SAG-AFTRA strikes.

It will be the second time that Whishaw will work with Sachs after the actor starred in the director’s critically acclaimed film Passages in 2023.

A Photographer Who Received The Critical Acclaim He Deserved After Death

Today, Hujar is recognized as among the greatest American photographers of the late 20th century.

He is best known for his intimate, powerful, and piercing black-and-white portraits of luminaries of the queer, bohemian art scene of downtown Manhattan between the late 1960s and the onset of the AIDs plague in the 1980s.

Some of Hujar’s most famous photographs include Orgasmic Man (1969) which became the cover of Hanya Yanagihara’s bestselling novel A Little Life — as well as the final portrait of transgender actress and Andy Warhol muse Candy Darling on her deathbed at 29-years-old.

In Hujar’s arresting image, Darling lies on the hospital bed where she was dying of lymphoma in 1974. Darling gazes at the camera with a full face of makeup with her head sideways on a pillow, her arm vampishly raised, and an elegant rose ostentatiously placed beside her.

Hujar later wrote that Darling was “playing every death scene from every movie” during this final photo shoot. And, according to The New Yorker, this combination of blunt realism and reverie in Hujar’s photography is what made his portraits so powerful.

“Thudding frankness fuses with exultant fantasy,” Peter Schjeldahl writes in The New Yorker of Hujar’s deathbed portrait of Darling.

“The effect epitomizes the practical intimacy with which Hujar, typically through hours of shooting with a twin-lens reflex camera (discreetly looking down to view the subject), got beyond what people look like to what — from the depths of themselves, facing out toward the world — they are, conveying, at once, their armor, and their vulnerability.

“But they couldn’t be just anybody. ‘I like people who dare,’ he said.”

Hujar also shot portraits of cultural icons such as Fran Lebowitz, Susan Sontag, John Waters, and legendary drag queen Divine.

However, Hujar’s work only received marginal recognition during his lifetime. It was only after his death of AIDS-related pneumonia at the age of fifty-three, that his photographs began to receive the critical esteem they deserved.


Image credits: Header photo licensed via Depositphotos (left) and Wikimedia Commons (right).

Elizabeth Goodspeed on Juergen Teller and how we understand “flawed” images

Elizabeth Goodspeed on Juergen Teller and how we understand “flawed” images

Within this context, Teller’s photographs are an obvious provocation. They humanise celebrities by casting them into unfiltered anti-glamour, while still allowing us to judge them by the same extreme beauty standards of a retouched world (it’s no surprise that a meme has emerged calling Teller’s portraiture the true “face card test”). They’re the Instagram photo dump gone commercial – a seemingly haphazard array of images embodying a kind of performed indifference, or maybe an indifference to performance. The concurrent return of faux paparazzi photos by brands from Balenciaga to Bottega Veneta taps into a similar zeitgeist, mimicking authenticity and spontaneity within carefully staged campaigns.

The discourse that reliably arises from Teller’s work likely comes down to a black box of intention. Like the fable of the Emperor’s New Clothes, we all know there’s a joke being played – but on who? Is it on the celebrity subjects, compelled into the realm of the ridiculous? Teller himself does describe his process as one of force, saying that for his W shoot, “I will kidnap the actor or actress and go to an undisclosed location, where we will take pictures for a few hours without any editor, publicist or hair and makeup artist on set.” Or is it on us, the audience, who willingly engage and amplify these real and unreal images?

The raw, unpolished nature of Teller’s photographs is often met with the same refrain: “I could do that.” In fact, that’s always been the point of them. While not without intentionality, Teller’s seemingly informal style is in fact just that: informal. Riz Ahmed, photographed leaning against Teller’s favourite tree in the 2021 issue of W, described the shoot as “the fastest of my life. 20 seconds, two clicks.” The technical barriers to creating images like this are low; no sophisticated equipment or advanced skills are required. Like Jackson Pollock’s abstract expressionism, which broke free from the burdens of realism, Teller’s photography liberates itself from the norms of high-end, polished photography – and liberates us in the process as well. Artistry doesn’t necessarily lie in technical complexity or adherence to conventional standards of beauty. Instead, it lies in the ability to convey a message, evoke emotion or challenge perceptions. Teller’s work does precisely this by presenting celebrities and fashion icons in an unvarnished, almost anti-glamourous light, and selling it back to us at a premium.

Monkey Hugs Photographer After Being Reunited in Heartwarming Video

Monkey Hugs Photographer After Being Reunited in Heartwarming Video
Mikah Spider Monkey
Casey Cooper receives a hug from Mikah the spider monkey.

A photographer has shared the sweet moment Mikah the spider monkey gave him a hug after the pair had not seen each other in two years.

Casey Cooper, a dedicated nature and conservation photographer, shared Mikah’s story in a viral video posted to TikTok yesterday. Cooper explains that the spider monkey once lived in a tiny cage in a tiny apartment with no other monkeys to interact with.

@cooperlost Mikah the spider monkey once lived in a tiny cage inside a tiny apartment by herself with no other monkeys to interact with. She was in jail. 4 years ago she was rescued by a wildlife sanctuary in bolivia. She spent 2 years there learning how to socialize with other animals and fend for herself in the wild. Fastforward to today, shes wild, free and pregnant and gets to be a MOTHER SOON! Not all sanctuary stories are succesful but when they are, we remember why we do the things we do for each creature that gets a second chance at a wild life. #theamazon #spidermonkeysoftiktok #keepthemwild #wildlifesanctuary #wildliferehab #wildliferescue ♬ Tishomingo – Zach Bryan

Mikah was someone’s pet, presumably in Bolvia which is where a wildlife sanctuary rescued her four years ago. That’s where Cooper first met Mikah and she was being socialized with the other monkey as she learned how to fend for herself in the wild.

“The first day I arrived at the sanctuary, Mikah was being introduced to the jungle. She was on a leash at the time, that’s how you start to habituate them to the troupe,” Cooper tells the Miami Herald.

“Mikah was on the leash right next to the location of where I was going to be staying, and she walked up to me and kinda looked at me and hopped up and gave me a big neck hug, pretty similar to the one you see in the video.”

Mikah’s assimilation was successful, the conservationists had to ensure that she didn’t “get bullied or killed by the other monkeys.” This was partly achieved by placing Mikah in a cage in the jungle to keep her safe while she learned how to interact with the other monkeys.

Mikah is now out of the cage and cavorting with the other monkeys — she’s pregnant.

“She seems to have so much gratitude for the humans who rescued her,” Coopers tells the Herald.

“Seeing her felt like seeing a childhood friend. It’s an emotional feeling.

“You have this feeling of happiness that this animal we did all this work for is happy and comfortable and living a wild life.

“There’s always so much disaster and sadness when it comes to these animal stories, so when you have a victory like that, you really just want to celebrate it.”

Cooper previously featured on PetaPixel after he was filmed taking photos of a cheetah that walked over to him for a head rub during the shoot.

More of Cooper’s work can be found on his website, Instagram, and TikTok.


Image credits: All photos by Casey Cooper.

A Passion for Fashion

A Passion for Fashion

A professional photographer has documented news events and political campaigns, but she has a secret enthusiasm for the runways of the street

When I travel, people are my nature. What excites me about travel is not the mountains, rivers, plains, trees or sunsets, no matter how majestic. What I love is connecting with people, observing people, documenting people and celebrating the wonderful diversity I see. It helps me appreciate the common threads that unite us.

A photo collage of people wearing fashionable outfits. Next Avenue, fashion, photography
“I prefer the museum of the streets, where people present themselves in their inimical, individual styles, passing by each other unawares but creating a visual feast that catches my eye.”  |  Credit: © Iris Schneider Photography

I have always loved fashion. To me, it’s not only about the clothes although that is certainly part of it, but it’s about the way people wear, manipulate, update, adapt, downgrade and tailor clothes to suit themselves or another individual.

Clothing has a history, and I’ve always loved looking at clothes through that prism.

It’s about the way clothing makes you feel, and how that feeling radiates out into the world. Clothing has a history, and I’ve always loved looking at clothes through that prism. Museums are favorite places to see clothing in the context of history and appreciate the timeline and how fashion has evolved.

Museums of Masters

I have visited Yves St. Laurent’s atelier in Paris and was awestruck by his patterns and hat forms. I’ve visited the Dior Museum and looked at decades of frothy designs that made me drool with envy and long for a dressing room. And I’ve been to the Anchorage Museum with its cases of ceremonial robes and coats made of fur and guts, enhanced with elaborate stitching and beading and evoking decades of time-honored rituals.

But I prefer the museum of the streets, where people present themselves in their inimical, individual styles, passing by each other unawares but creating a visual feast that catches my eye. I love to note the sense of individuality and style and capture and salute that insouciance.

Two people wearing dressed in the colors of France's flag. Next Avenue, fashion, photography
Streetstyle in front of the L’Arc de Triomphe, Wrapped, Paris.   |  Credit: © Iris Schneider Photography

Common Threads

For years as a photographer I have been documenting the way people express themselves through their clothing, and how they present themselves when they step out into the world. Seeing the individuality and creativity of humans — no matter their economic status or country of origin — is reassuring.

In such divided times it confirms that people are people, and underneath our divisions we are all the same, living with our joys and challenges and doing the best we can.

Here is a sample of some of my favorite street encounters, each of which lifts my spirits. Every interaction, even if fleeting, leaves an imprint on my memory of a place and embellishes the experience of traveling.

Dressing the Environment

I remember being in Paris during the installation of Christo’s Arc de Triomphe, Wrapped. I consider myself a proud groupie of the artist, having seen Surrounded Islands in Florida, Pont Neuf, Wrapped in Paris, The Gates in New York’s Central Park and The Umbrellas in California.

A group of people wearing matching blue vests in Paris, France. Next Avenue, fashion, photography
Christo and Jeanne-Claude ambassadors in Paris  |  Credit: © Iris Schneider Photography

The Arc de Triomphe was spectacular not only for its shimmering coat on the Arc, revealing its shape and turning the monument into a piece of sculpture, but because of the obvious pleasure it bought to the hordes who flocked there to see it, touch it and use it as backdrop. The added element was that it was the last Christo installation, conceived before he passed away in 2020 and permitted and ready to go just as Covid closed everything.

Its posthumous installation made the Arc installation even more spectacular, something that you felt viscerally was appreciated by those lucky enough to see it in person. While I loved photographing the art, the bigger thrill was documenting the people who gathered there to celebrate it.

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In Morocco, I walked through a market full of women who came down from the Rif mountains, in colorfully mismatched dresses and robes that reminded me of the cornucopia of color on Samburu women in Kenya gathered around their wells and huts. Somehow it all worked perfectly.

In Iceland, I traveled to Reykjavik in March as a birthday gift to myself in hopes of seeing the Northern Lights. Fortunately, I was able to see the lights from my airline window seat as we flew toward our destination. But while the Icelandic scenery was thrilling, I loved walking the streets of Reykjavik photographing tourists and locals.

A group of women wearing colorful patterned outfits. Next Avenue, fashion, photography
Streetstyle in Morocco  |  Credit: © Iris Schneider Photography

Iceland Is Cool

There I encountered Jakob, a lanky, hip young man working in a boutique while wearing super wide patched leather trousers; Norwegian high school visitors—Christopher, Juliann and Karl—dressed in replica Viking clothes they meticulously made themselves; and Resia, a young woman from China using the modernist Harpa concert hall as a backdrop for what could have been a photo shoot for her modeling portfolio. I usually stay behind the camera but couldn’t refuse her request for a selfie with me — even though I was severely underdressed.

Even my very familiar hometown of New York City gives me opportunities to appreciate individual style.

In Jordan, walking the streets of Amman and visiting Petra, a World Heritage Site, I again was drawn to the people: guides dressed like Johnny Depp/Keith Richards in “Pirates of the Caribbean” were ubiquitous. Leading their donkeys on aged paths, they looked more ready to walk the plank than tour the ruins.

There were young postcard vendors plying their trade. In Amman, I followed the sound of amplified music to find a raucous wedding reception at my hotel that drew me in, and I constantly sought out fashion on the streets and in the shops.

Even my very familiar hometown of New York City gives me opportunities to appreciate individual style. From workers on streetcorners in their aprons and hardhats to models sporting the latest trends, shoppers at Bergdorf’s or African queens stopping at the halal truck, the city is a rainbow of humanity.

These random meetings sustain me and allow me to celebrate the brilliance of individuals we otherwise would pass by. I’m grateful for everyone who catches my eye and becomes the subject of these very brief encounters.

Iris Schneider author bio
Iris Schneider has been a journalist and photographer since the 1970s, starting in New York City while teaching at PS 97 on the Lower East Side. She became a staff photographer at the Los Angeles Times in 1980. Her work can be seen on her website or on Instagram (@schneidereye). Read More

Night Photo Summit 2024: Learning, inspiration, camaraderie

Night Photo Summit 2024: Learning, inspiration, camaraderie

The Night Photo Summit online event will offer three days of dynamic presentations from 35-plus world-class photographers, authors, artists, astronomers and national park and dark-sky activists. This is their fourth year running, and it’s always worthwhile.

Abandoned airplane with the glorious Milky Way overhead. Cover for first book.
Abandoned airplane with the glorious Milky Way overhead.

What is it?

National Parks at Night holds night photography workshops that provide top-shelf education both in the classroom and in the field. They are arguably the best in the world at doing so. They have invited 35+ speakers to join in the fun of their Night Photo Summit.

The speakers at this online event will include night photographers, of course. Also speaking are authors, artists, astronomers and national park and dark-sky activists. They will speak about astronomy, dark skies, creativity and of course photo techniques — both in the field and post-processing. Presentations will include beginner, intermediate and advanced levels.

Old Whaling Church, Edgartown, MA. Aerial night photo by Tim Little. He will be one of the featured presenters at Night Photo Summit 2024.
Old Whaling Church, Edgartown, MA. Aerial night photo by Tim Little. He will be one of the featured presenters at Night Photo Summit 2024.

Who are the presenters?

Tim Little will be one of the presenters at Night Photo Summit, discussing night photography using a drone.

The varied speakers for Night Photo Summitinclude Sean Bagshaw, Royce Bair, Benjamin Barakat, Yuri Beletsky, Forest Chaput de Saintonge, Joshua Cripps, Alan Dyer, Daniel Freeman, Michael Frye, Kim Henry, Kerry-Ann Lecky Hepburn, Melissa Kaelin, Marybeth Kiczenski, Tim Little, Pete Mauney, Andrew McCarthy, Brandon Nesbitt, Eric Pare, Jessica Rojas, Jess Santos, Mike Shaw, Anthony Sleiman, Chris Smith, Babak Tafreshi, Adam Woodworth and Dan Zafra, with more to be announced in the next couple of weeks. and more. And of course, the speakers also include National Parks at Night instructors Gabriel Biderman, Chris Nicholson, Lance Keimig, Matt Hill and Tim Cooper.

Tim Little, interviewed in Photofocus previously, will be offering a class entitled “Night Flight and Moonlight: Getting Started with Long-Exposure Aerials”. In what promises to be a fascinating and unique class, he will be discussing taking night photos with drones. Him and I will be teaching a night photography workshop in Joshua Tree and Borrego Springs in June 2024.

Edgartown, MA. Aerial night photo by Tim Little. He will be one of the featured presenters at Night Photo Summit 2024.
Edgartown, MA. Aerial night photo by Tim Little. He will be one of the featured presenters at Night Photo Summit 2024.

When is it?

Joshua Tree National Park underneath the starry desert sky at night.
Joshua Tree National Park underneath the starry desert sky at night.

The Night Photo Summit will run Feb. 2-4 from 11 a.m. to 7:15 p.m. on Friday and Saturday, and from 11 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. on Sunday. There will also be an “after-hours” event Friday and/or Saturday nights.

How can I sign up?

Night Photo Summit 2024

Well, you know … go to their website! If you choose to sign up, I would greatly appreciate it if you use my Night Photo Summit 2024 affiliate link here. Thanks.