Although I like photographing people, I never dared to step into the world of street photography. But recently I have tried it a few times, with mixed results. I would like to share my experiences and give some tips for those who like to try this for the first time also.

I always look in wonder at the amazing photos by famous and not-so-famous street photographers. Often these are presented in black and white and that does have a nice feel to it. Since I like black and white photography a lot, I tried that kind of street photography a few times.

Street photography is all about capturing life on the streets of a city. It’s not specifically about capturing people, but it can be a significant part of street photography. At least, that’s what I believe. But capturing people without their explicit consent is something that I find very difficult.

My regular camera isn’t the perfect camera for this kind of photography. A large DSLR or large mirrorless camera feels a bit obtrusive, and I always think strangers feel intimidated when I point my camera at them. After all, a large 50mm, 85mm, or 135mm lens is not that inconspicuous. The last thing I want is a stranger that reacts threateningly, something that seems to happen quite often nowadays.

The Equipment I Use

Street photography is where my small Fujifilm X100V comes in handy. It’s an inconspicuous camera that produces amazing images. It has a fixed focal length with a field of view similar to a 35mm on a full frame. This does mean I have to get close to my subjects. That has its downsides and upsides.

The upside is the connection you get with the subject and the moment you’re capturing. The downside is not being able to maintain my distance. It is almost impossible to shoot without being noticed. I could use my Canon EOS R5 with a longer focal length and keep my distance, of course. But somehow it doesn’t feel right.

I reviewed the Nikon Z fc a while ago. This is a camera that I find also perfect for street photography. It’s small, and with the standard zoom lens, it doesn’t feel as threatening as my larger Canon. I got some nice photos back then, and people were rather interested in that retro-looking camera instead of being bothered by being photographed.

This is similar to what I encountered with my Fujifilm X100t. Just like with the Nikon Z fc, people believe you are photographing with film rolls. That makes it interesting, and suddenly they don’t seem to feel threatened anymore. It makes street photography a fun thing to do.

A Bit of Street Photography in London

Unfortunately, there is no real big city close to my home. There are some that almost fit the description, but these don’t have that real big-city vibe. The people living there are different from the big city folk, somehow. It’s something I noticed when I was visiting London a few days during the SWPA 2023 event for Sony. I use the free time I had to walk through the city of London, and I took my Fujifilm camera with me (sorry about that, Sony).

I used the black and white film simulation profile while shooting in raw, and I used manual focus, set to the hyperfocal distance. This way there was no need to wait for the autofocus to lock onto something. I also played around with intentional camera movement, which was possible thanks to the built-in neutral density filter. Those few hours in the city of London were a lot of fun. Not for the impressive landmarks, but for life on the streets.

The results of my first steps into street photography didn’t produce any world-class photos. But that wasn’t my goal. I just wanted to get familiar with this kind of photography. I do like to think some of my photos are worth keeping. In other words, I am happy with some results.

Lessons Learned So Far

There are some lessons learned, for sure. I know the technique known as zone focusing is quite a useful way for street photography. Just use the hyperfocal distance of your aperture in combination with the focal length, or predetermine the distance you would like to shoot and set your focus distance at that setting.

Often, this only works for short focal lengths. If you want to use a telelens, focusing is mandatory. But when zone focusing is possible, it allows you to shoot inconspicuously from the waist, without ever looking through the viewfinder.

Although I used aperture priority a lot, I believe it can be a good choice to set the exposure manually. Especially during the daytime, when the buildings produce deep shadows in the harsh sunlight. Since daylight doesn’t change in brightness that much, it becomes much easier to set the proper exposure once, and forget about it.

Aperture priority is also possible, but you need to keep an eye on the exposure compensation. If the sunlight gets regularly obscured by clouds, or if you shoot at the end of the day when the light intensity changes rapidly, aperture priority is much faster. But if it’s a sunny day, setting the exposure once will be enough. As long as the light doesn’t change.

Know the City and Its Inhabitants

There is one last thing I noticed when I was walking through the streets of London and along the South Banks of the Thames. If you know the city, it becomes easier to capture great photos. You learn where and when the light is at its best, and what the best locations are. This way you can be at the right location at the right time.

You will learn when the people are passing by and perhaps even notice patterns. You will be prepared. On top of that, if you can go back more often, you increase the chances of capturing unique moments, with great light, amazing shadows, and interesting people.

These are my findings with street photography. Take a look at the photos in this article to judge if I’m on the right track. I know I still have to learn a lot, but it always takes time to master a certain type of photography. The most important thing is having fun with it. And that’s what I had.

If you have tips or advice for street photography, feel free to share in the comments below. Perhaps it will help me to take another step in this interesting kind of photography.