We’ve Got It Made: Process X Goes Behind the Scenes to Demystify the Production of Our Favorite Objects and Tools

We’ve Got It Made: Process X Goes Behind the Scenes to Demystify the Production of Our Favorite Objects and Tools

When we pull on a pair of denim jeans, hop in our cars, or fill up a bucket, our first thought probably isn’t, “Where did this come from?” We pluck clothing items from racks or off of hardware store shelves, but how in the world were they made? Japan-based project Process X (previously) goes behind the scenes of major manufacturing companies and specialty production studios to discover how simple materials are transformed into ubiquitous objects we rely on all of the time, from pencils to billiard cues to galvanized pails to manhole covers. The team also introduces practices with deep roots in Japanese culture, like the meticulous process of carving Noh masks.

See a few of our favorite videos here, and learn how numerous other things are made—or scrapped—on Process X’s YouTube channel.

 

All images © Process X

A still from a short documentary about the making of chalk.

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Behind the lens: BYU student named Student Photographer of the Year

Behind the lens: BYU student named Student Photographer of the Year

Brooklynn Kelson Portrait 1

BYU student photographer Brooklynn Jarvis Kelson was named UPAA Student Photographer of the Year.

Photo by

Nate Edwards/BYU Photo

Brooklynn Jarvis Kelson remembers the moment Elder Jeffrey R. Holland greeted her as he was leaving the Marriott Center after speaking at a BYU devotional. Kelson, a student photographer who was assigned to take photos of the event, was standing in the tunnel, camera in hand, when the Apostle smiled at her and asked her how she was doing.

“As the photographer I don’t approach General Authorities, but I had been wanting and praying for the chance to meet him,” she recalls. “It was really cool and there is no way I would have had that experience if I wasn’t there as a photographer.”

It’s one of many special moments Kelson has witnessed as a student employee for BYU Photo. Now a senior in BYU’s photography program, Kelson was recently named Student Photographer of the Year by the University Photographers of American Association at the annual UPAA symposium in South Bend, Indiana.

“I was really grateful to be recognized, it was a little overwhelming because as I walked up to accept the award, they gave me a standing ovation,” she said. “It felt really special to have others appreciate my work.”

As part of the symposium, she taught a breakout session with BYU’s director of photography, Jaren Wilkey; and had the chance to network with a host of professionals in the industry.


“Brooklynn has grown so much in the time in which she has worked at BYU Photo. The practical experience that she has gained as a student photographer has really paid off,” said Wilkey. “Two years ago, she didn’t know how to use studio lights. Two weeks ago, she helped teach a studio lighting workshop to dozens of full-time professional photographers.”

But Kelson didn’t start college intending to become a photographer. “My first year of college I studied music,” she recalls. Still, an undeniable prompting to pick up a camera couldn’t be ignored.

Following the impression to study photography was the best decision she could’ve made, she says. After applying to the BYU Photo position after a suggestion from a supervisor at BYUtv, Kelson has spent the past two and a half years under the tutelage of award-winning university photographers Wilkey and Nate Edwards. She’s been trusted with hands-on opportunities to photograph major university events, devotionals, and athletic contests.

“It is one of my greatest joys to see our students gain confidence in themselves and their work,” said Edwards. “This is a testimony to Brooklynn’s work ethic, desire to learn, and the time she has dedicated to improving her skills and education.”

“It’s grown my love for BYU to a very deep level. There are so many moments where I’ve seen why Heavenly Father wanted me to come here and I’m really grateful I did because BYU Photo is the best job I’ve ever had, and Jaren and Nate are the best mentors I’ve ever had.”

Brooklynn Jarvis Kelson

Kelson, who is set to graduate in 2024, says it’s a satisfying feeling to see her photos used across BYU websites or in other university publications; and she’s grateful for the experiences she’s had at BYU that have prepared her to lead, serve, and lift.

“It’s grown my love for BYU to a very deep level,” she said. “There are so many moments where I’ve seen why Heavenly Father wanted me to come here and I’m really grateful I did because BYU Photo is the best job I’ve ever had, and Jaren and Nate are the best mentors I’ve ever had. I’ve been blessed to do what I love and that’s a really special thing.”

Kelson Collage 2

A collage of Brooklynn Kelson’s award-winning images.

Photo by

Brooklyn Kelson/BYU Photo

To view more award-winning photos from the BYU Photo team, click here.

New Oolong Gallery show explores textile waste and uncovers Vista artist’s long-hidden works

New Oolong Gallery show explores textile waste and uncovers Vista artist’s long-hidden works
image

Oolong Gallery’s new summer show is “Bread and Chocolate”, featuring the sculpture and paintings of artists Minga Opazo and Peter Stearns.

A native of Chile, Opazo is a fourth-generation textile crafter who recycles found textiles to make sculptural work, even harvesting natural elements like soil, grass and mushrooms in certain installations. Opazo’s work questions the textile industry with a series of pieces exploring the idea of “solastalgia”, a term that describes the mental or existential distress caused by environmental change and living in an era of excess, constantly consuming and throwing away.

We live in the Plasticene Epoch. A geologic period defined by humanity’s unwavering and ever-increasing creation, use, and discard of plastics on a world-changing scale,” wrote Opazo in her artist statement. “Unsurprisingly, Americans are the largest producer of textile waste, annually discarding more than 34 billion pounds of used textiles (about 100 lbs. per person)…Clothing has been crucial to human survival and is integral to every facet of society; yet, paradoxically, the Plasticene has transformed our ancient textile traditions into toxic commodities that threaten the future of life.”

Some of her experimental bio-art incorporates mushrooms—using utilizing fungi to transform toxic textile waste into regenerative soil. In one of her time-based sculptures, the outer layer is handwoven using recycled garments and within, the space is filled with oyster mushroom mycelium. Over the course of several months, the mycelium gradually digests the sculpture.

Stearns’ work is featured alongside Opazo’s in the show, on view in public for the first time after 30 years in hiding.

Stearns’ new figurative paintings explore floating shapes, geometry and rural California living in surrealist tropes. The Vista artist’s body of work spans four decades and merges autobiography, fantasy, and whimsy with sardonic and spiritual humor, imagery and themes.

“Bread and Chocolate” runs though Aug. 1 at the gallery, 349 N. Highway 101 in Solana Beach. Visit olongallery.com

The Nima Bed Brings Laidback, Timeless Vibes to the Bedroom

The Nima Bed Brings Laidback, Timeless Vibes to the Bedroom

Minimal yet eye-catching, the Nima Bed from Croft House features an asymmetrical paneled oak headboard that adds an unexpected detail to the otherwise deceptively simple piece. Finished in hardwax oil, a low profile footboard and side rails complement the furniture’s timeless design by adding further texture to the bed’s California cool aesthetic. Each Nima Bed is handcrafted in Los Angeles by a small team that’s dedicated to paying attention to detail and meeting your needs and preferences, so much so that each bed is made to order.

detail of light oak wood headboard

light oak wood bed frame and headboard

light oak wood bed frame and headboard with styled sheets, pillows, and nightstand

detail of light oak wood headboard

detail of light oak wood headboard

detail of light oak wood headboard

light oak wood bed frame and headboard with styled sheets, pillows, and nightstand

detail of light oak wood footboard

To learn more visit crofthouse.com.

Photography by Gigi Aly.

Kelly Beall is senior editor at Design Milk. The Pittsburgh-based graphic designer and writer has had a deep love of art and design for as long as she can remember, and enjoys sharing her finds with others. When undistracted by great art and design, she can be found making a mess in the kitchen, consuming as much information as possible, or on the couch with her three pets. Find her @designcrush on social.

What ‘Shakespeare in Love’ Taught Us About Writing

What ‘Shakespeare in Love’ Taught Us About Writing

Earlier this year, Google introduced a chat application powered by artificial intelligence—an experimental competitor to ChatGPT and a tool that it hoped, per its marketing copy, would “be a home for your creativity, productivity and curiosity.” Understanding that some potential users might be less sanguine about a technology that blurs the line between the augmentation of human intelligence and the obsolescence of it, Google gave its new bot a canny name: Bard.

As a general term, “Bard” suggests the lyric capabilities, and the latent wisdom, of the human mind. As a specific one, it summons one of the most famous avatars of that art: William Shakespeare. Shakespeare is, at this point, his own kind of marketing message. His words double as incantations, invoked to confer legitimacy and a sheen of artistry on any he that utters them. The early modern poet has achieved that consummately postmodern strain of transcendence. He has become a brand.

Google’s release of Bard, as it happens, coincides with the 25th anniversary of the film that considered the origins of the great poet’s elevation. Shakespeare in Love—a whimsical imagining of the events that led to the writing of Romeo and Juliet—is remembered, today, as much for the stories that played out on its periphery as for the one it put on the screen: those controversial Oscar wins. Those plot-twisty reshufflings of writers, directors, lead actors. The involvement of Harvey Weinstein. But the tabloid-addled memories, apt as they are for a film about creativity’s vagaries, also undersell its insights. Shakespeare in Love, the comedy from the late 1990s that takes place in the late 16th century, managed to anticipate some of our era’s deepest anxieties. And it serves as a reminder that one of the questions new technologies have wrought—what will artificial intelligence do to the human version?—is, while unprecedented, not strictly new. The human brain versus the computerized one has always been a false distinction. Shakespeare in Love acknowledges that, indirectly but eloquently, as it gives shape to the messiness and randomness and muddled vitality of the creative process.


Shakespeare in Love, its tagline announces, is “a comedy about the greatest love story almost never told.” The line refers, most directly, to the writing of Romeo and Juliet. But the story in question is Shakespeare’s too, as the poet falls in love, and then turns that tumult into art. Relatively little is known about Shakespeare’s life during the brief span when the film is set—a few weeks in 1593, when Shakespeare was likely in his late 20s—and the film, with variable fealty to the historical record, gleefully fills in the blanks. When we meet him, the future Bard (played by Joseph Fiennes) is simply Will, a writer of great talent but middling renown, struggling for money and inspiration, worried that he’s lost his gift. This is the foundational joke of Shakespeare in Love: Even Shakespeare suffered from writer’s block.

But then Will meets Viola de Lesseps, the beautiful and headstrong daughter of a wealthy merchant. Viola (played by Gwyneth Paltrow, in the performance that won her her Oscar) is a regular audience member at the theater that produces many of Shakespeare’s plays. They fall for each other. All’s not well with their story, though, and very little can end well: Shakespeare is already several years into his marriage; Viola is betrothed to a vicious nobleman. Star-crossed lovers, their dreams made futile by the world’s callous realities: Romeo and Juliet is Shakespeare’s romance with Viola, told through thin allusion. It is autofiction. As the company debuts Romeo and Juliet, a series of twists means that the film’s lovers play the fated pair. Will and Viola, before a rapt audience, meet again and finally, with a kiss, part.

But Shakespeare in Love is, true to its tagline, a comedy—one that plays out through sly amalgams of Shakespearean dramatic devices: gender-swapping, slapstick, sexual puns, mistaken identities, melodramatic rivalries, balletic sword fights. It also features a hero who spends a decent portion of the proceedings laboring under a misconception. Will, unable to create, thinks he needs a muse. And he is convinced that the muse in question should take the form that it classically has: a beautiful woman. What will quickly become clear, though, to the film’s audience if not to the character, is that the inspiration he seeks has been there all along. It is not his casual lover Rosaline, as he initially hopes—nor, even, is it Viola. His true muse is the teeming city of London.

This is another joke embedded in Shakespeare in Love: The assorted mundanities of Will’s daily existence—the names of people and places he encounters; wan observations from the people he interacts with; bits of home decor—make their way, eventually, into his art. He has a skull in his room. The theater that stages his plays is named the Rose. “A plague on both their houses!” a preacher yells as Shakespeare runs by, in a condemnation of “immoral” playhouses that will soon be alchemized into one of drama’s most well-known lines. Everything is copy, goes the writer’s rationalization and lament. Shakespeare in Love expands it into giddy absurdity.

This approach—all those allusions and Easter eggs—might have been merely clever. But Shakespeare in Love is not merely making references. It is also making arguments. Pop culture, typically, portrays the literary genius as a solitary figure: alone at a desk, perhaps, searching his mind, confronting the blank page. The cliché assumes the same thing that Shakespeare does at the beginning of the film, as he seeks his muse: that inspiration is introspective. But Shakespeare in Love rejects that premise. It is not solitude that leads Will to his greatest poetry; it is being with other people, learning from them, interacting with them. The world is his writers’ room. Over the two hours’ traffic of the film, its audiences become privy to the hectic alchemy of genius. Art, in its vision, is not the stuff of one mind catching fire, but of many minds and many flames. It is an ongoing dialogue. Shakespeare, the film suggests, is simply better able than most to translate the conversation.

That argument is particularly straightforward when it comes to Will’s dramatization of his relationship with Viola. Romeo and Juliet begins its life, in the film, as a comedy—a concession Will makes to the producer, who is convinced that slapstick is the genre that will best attract audiences and their ticket money. (The work is named, delightfully, Romeo and Ethel, the Pirate’s Daughter.) At one point, as he tries to persuade a famous actor to join the cast as Romeo’s close friend, Will announces its title as … Mercutio. But his doomed relationship with Viola convinces Shakespeare that his play is, finally, a tragedy. His art imitates his life. Will and Viola have a balcony scene, and a dancing scene. Viola tells her nurse, at multiple points, “Anon!” We get two people who will become, despite their best efforts, fortune’s fools.

The tragic fusion—Shakespeare and his work, indistinguishable from each other—helps give the film its modern currency. The symbolism of “the Bard,” over the centuries, has encompassed not just authorship, but also readership. Shakespeare has been a focus for scholarly discussion about the proper way to engage with literature, about the relationship between the author and the text. How should contemporary readers account for the historical contexts from which authors emerged? To what extent should their writings stand alone? Is the author, effectively, alive or dead?

Shakespeare in Love brings eloquence to the muddle. The film is, most obviously, reading Shakespeare through history’s sharp lens: Its Bard is made of flesh and blood, by turns anxious and lusty and dashing and jealous and drunk and frustrated and funny and hopeful and wrong. He is also so infused with his surroundings—with London, with the stage, with the art he is creating—that he becomes effectively interchangeable with them. Where does Will Shakespeare end, and the work of Will Shakespeare begin? It would be impossible to say, the film suggests, and it would be pointless to try. Yes, Shakespeare is a dead author. He is also one who is, still, undeniably alive.


Shakespeare’s historical era was, in its outlines, deeply akin to our own. Many of the anxieties that shaped it emerged from the printing press—an invention that, like the internet in ours, brought people new access to the world’s existing ideas, and then generated many more. New technologies, the theorist Clay Shirky has suggested, don’t become interesting until they become boring: Their social power won’t reveal itself until the new capabilities have settled into the grooves of everyday experience. Shakespeare came of age as an artist roughly 100 years after Johannes Gutenberg adapted a wine press into a text-making machine, in that moment of heady mundanity. He wrote at a time when all the pamphlets and tracts and books that spread information in ways never before possible had worked themselves into the rhythms of people’s lives. He created his new texts within the flurry of other people’s words.

Shakespeare in Love exemplifies that chaos. The printing press created a revolution, and revolutions are never straightforward in their effects. The film evokes that fact, as well. The new machine was potential and threat at the same time. It made people’s ordinary environments bigger, less superstitious, more varied, more individualist, more confusing. Shakespeare in Love filters all that change into its comedy. “It is a new day,” Viola’s nurse informs her, as the sun begins its rise over the Thames. “It is a new world,” Viola corrects her.

All that novelty is embodied, in the film, through London itself. Cities are proxies for the kind of connection that new technologies tend to promise: In them, people’s exposure to each other begets small transformations, and big ones. Trends proliferate. Languages develop. Ideas spread, and interact, and evolve. Shakespeare’s London—typically rendered, in the film, through quick-cut shots that channel instability—is muddy and dangerous and pulsing with possibility. In the film, the man so often associated with a town on the edge of the Cotswolds (A Present From Stratford upon Avon reads a souvenir mug in Shakespeare’s writing room) is, instead, a creature of urban possibility.

Shakespeare’s great talent, in this context, is not mysterious, nor is it muse-reliant or stoked by solitude or any of the other things that the mythology of genius might have us believe. Instead it is a fusion of the poles that are typically invoked when people discuss the repercussions of our own technological revolution: the capabilities of the human, versus those of the computer. The Shakespeare of the film is thoroughly, vividly, deliriously human. His intelligence is, as well. But his world also resembles, in its way, the workings of generative AI. His London is a corpus of data. His art comes to him, eventually, with a reliability that is almost algorithmic. The film does not just invent an origin story for Romeo and Juliet; more specifically, it imagines the series of inputs that led to its creation. Shakespeare’s wisdom is as synthetic as it is singular: He takes in the information, processes it, analyzes it, reworks it, makes new sense of it—and in so doing, writes the poetry that would become symbolic, for many, of poetry itself.

The screenplay of Shakespeare in Love, appropriately enough, was also the result of collaborative creativity. Its story came from the screenwriter Marc Norman (who was reportedly inspired by his son, who was in turn inspired by a college Shakespeare class). Much of the rest came from the playwright Tom Stoppard. The script the two developed offers a teasing blend of historical reality and a whimsical dismissal of it. “Are you the author of the plays of William Shakespeare?” Viola asks him, her line wryly acknowledging long-running debates about whether the plays in question were produced by a sometime actor named William Shakespeare. We get a winking reference to the fact that Shakespeare used different spellings of his own name—fuel for wanton theories that the great poet was illiterate. We get the real-life details of the initially unsolved murder of Shakespeare’s rival, Christopher Marlowe: its location (the London neighborhood of Deptford), its setting (a public house), its method (stabbing).

But then there are the historical liberties that led Stoppard to remind viewers, soon after Shakespeare in Love’s release, that “this film is entertainment, which doesn’t require it to be justified in the light of historical theory.” There are many of these, but the most obvious involves the story’s very premise: Contrary to what the film suggests, the historical Shakespeare didn’t actually conjure the famous tale himself. Instead, Romeo and Juliet was, like so many others of Shakespeare’s plays, a reworking of prior art. He adapted it from The Tragicall Historye of Romeus and Juliet—a work that was itself an adaptation: It was translated from an Italian story that was first composed in the early 16th century.

You could read that omission as whimsy run amok, speculative fiction tipping over into willful dismissal of history. You could also read it, though, as an error that conveys a broader truth. Shakespeare in Love, instead of directly acknowledging Shakespeare’s indebtedness to other artists, infuses the debt into its story. Romeo and Juliet, in its vision, is written by William Shakespeare but created, effectively, by Will and Viola and their fellow actors and a preacher who yells about houses and plagues. In the film, too, it’s Will’s rival who lays out the basic plot for Romeo and Juliet. Marlowe gives the idea to Shakespeare freely and generously—this was before standardized copyright laws, with all their radiating consequences—and Shakespeare makes it his own.

There’s poetry in that. There’s also insight. The film does not question the remarkable fact of Shakespeare’s genius. But it also offers a reminder that the Bard could not have existed, as he did, without all those other bards. His genius was singular. It was communal. It was both at the same time.

TOAST Launches Collection of Creatively Repaired Garments + Home Accessories

TOAST Launches Collection of Creatively Repaired Garments + Home Accessories

British brand TOAST is leading the way in bringing repair culture into clothing, homewares, and accessories and now employs as many repair specialists (six) as designers. As well as offering a repair service for customers (3,579 mends and counting), the brand has recently launched TOAST Renewed – a collection of creatively repaired pieces. Design Milk spoke to one the very first members of the repair team, Emily Mae Martin, to find out more.

Emily Mae Martin

stop shoulder of a mended white sweater

Tell me about your childhood, education, and background and how you first became interested in repair.

I was always a creative child. From a young age, I was drawing and painting, acting, dancing, and singing. Sewing was a much later addition to these hobbies – apart from learning to hand stitch my name tags into school uniforms, I wasn’t doing a lot of sewing at all.

I grew up in a working-class town in the early years of fast fashion and that meant there was a stigma associated with wearing old looking and/or repaired clothes. My parents encouraged us to look clean and presentable (I was never allowed white clothes as a messy child!), to balance out the fact that our clothes were cheap – kids would get picked on if they had unbranded clothing, never mind if it was patched together. I never thought about it much at the time, but I look back and think what a huge and interesting change this has been in my lifetime.

bottom side of a skirt garment adorned with threaded designs

I completed my art foundation in my hometown and focused on costume design (combining my love of clothing and acting), I then moved to Musselburgh and studied costume design for the first semester, but decided it wasn’t for me, mostly due to the technical aspects of garment construction. I reapplied for more creatively open textile courses and began studying at Edinburgh College of Art the following September. I completed both my undergraduate and postgraduate degrees in textiles there, with my postgrad being the gateway to my interest in repair.

My master’s was all about sustainable fashion, mostly looking at new production methods using natural dyes, patchwork, and bespoke clothing. Mending often popped up in my research but I didn’t get much time to explore it during my studies as I was making things from scratch. I took some time in between my master’s years to teach myself a little and mend some items of my own, and I actually wore the first sweater I had mended at my degree show opening night.

top side shoulder of a tank garment with sewn lines of colorful thread

What appeals to you about repairing existing objects versus creating something new?

The initial appeal of repair was from a sustainability angle – extending the life of a garment rather than discarding and buying new. Over time, my appreciation of repair has grown. As a maker and someone who loves clothing and textiles, it’s amazing to see a garment constantly evolving. It becomes more than an inanimate object, it is part of someone’s everyday life and holds within it human-made marks.

angled view of worn blanket hanging on stick with patched section

From a creative perspective, I am often overwhelmed when making something new, the endless options, and the pressure for it to be worthy of existing and not taking from our precious resources will do that! So working with existing items not only eliminates that guilt but also means that there’s something to respond to and be inspired by. I often include elements of the original garment into my repairs as I love how it looks.

I find that mending as a process is such an act of deliberate care that it can be healing for the garment and for yourself. It allows you to focus on one thing with minimal equipment, which is helpful for someone as easily distracted as me. This reduction of stimulus is great for my – and many people’s – anxiety, which is very different when creating something new, with ideas flying around everywhere.

closeup of white fabric adorned with square of threaded design

There are many words for repair with slight nuances in their meaning – mending, fixing, hacking, restoring, repurposing… which do you prefer in relation to your work and why?

I either use the terms mending or repair as their meaning is quite broad, then expand the details from there adding terms such as visible or invisible, woven or Swiss darning, etc. I also feel like they are the most relatable terms that are also used outside of the textile world. “On the mend” and “mend a broken heart” – phrases like these already relate to a slow process of recovery and care, and that’s absolutely how I feel about mending clothes too. There’s also the suggestion that the end result could be any of the following – it may not be as it was before, but it may even be better, or you can just “get back to your old self.” The comfort and hope in gaining something back that you thought was lost is quite powerful.

hanging branch holding a denim dress, sweater and scarf

How would you describe TOAST Renewed – the collection of repaired garments recently launched by the brand, that you have been very involved in?

TOAST Renewed is a collection of previously damaged and/or faulty stock that has been creatively repaired by the team of six repair specialists working for TOAST.

hanging rust colored sweater on a suspended branch

Connecting back to the previous question, I would use different mending terms for the TOAST Renewed project. I mean I think the project title says a lot – to renew these pieces; to revitalize them is absolutely the goal. With customer repairs, it’s down to what is right for that particular customer and their lifestyle, whereas the Renewed pieces have to have a broader appeal and excitement to them. Without an already established personal connection, we have the opportunity to repair unused, but damaged stock and create a feature worthy of someone’s investment.

There’s definitely more design thinking that goes into these pieces, and I often use the TOAST current collections as inspiration for the items I work on.

white and patterned grey blanket thrown over suspended branch

What is the inspiration behind it – where did the idea come from?

Our TOAST Renewed collection extends our long-standing approach to cherishing materials and honoring the hands that make our pieces. It is the most recent addition to TOAST Circle, a space for us to foster longevity, celebrate the art of repair, and connect with our community over treasured pieces.

With each one-of-a-kind item, we demonstrate how mending can give clothing and soft textiles a new lease of life. We hope to shift perspectives that tears, holes, and other flaws diminish the beauty of well-crafted pieces. By renewing instead of replacing, we get to cherish items for a lifetime.

balled blue and white fabric with white thread sewn into linear pattern

Which repair techniques are you using and why?

I mostly use woven and Swiss darning, and sashiko-inspired patch repairs as that is what most of our garments call for. A handful of times I have used embroidery – mostly when covering stains, pen marks, etc.

There are multiple factors that go into which technique to use where, the two types of darning mentioned are typically used for knitwear repairs, but you can use woven darning on almost anything. I tend to darn the most as I love the process, and I’m a big fan of woven fabric but have never been able to weave on a large scale. It’s great to be able to be playful with color like that on a small scale.

A patch repair with reinforcement stitching is mostly used to repair holes or tears, especially when the surrounding fabric is wearing thin too. More recently I have taken to using simple patch repairs with whip-stitched edges as I love the look of these, especially on our workwear items.

closeup of grey sweater with sewn design in different colored thread

How did you learn the techniques you use in your work?

I’ve been doing a lot of hand stitching, embroidery, and quilting in my textile work for a few years now, so just a few visuals online allowed me to pick up patch repair techniques quite quickly. For the darning side of things, I did a few online workshops and did a fair bit of research too. That all feels like a long time ago now though and I have developed these skills immeasurably while working at TOAST. I’ve been working in the repair specialist role for around two and a half years now, I’m working on approximately 9–15 items a week, so it’s almost become second nature to me – it feels very intuitive.

angled down view of wood table with thread and fabric swatches

Having said that, I am definitely still learning all the time, and it’s exciting to get something challenging, whether it is working with delicate fabric, damage in a tricky area of the garment, or really anything new! Also, the online community of menders is endlessly inspiring and I see new tips and tricks and approaches to repair all the time.

person's hand held up straight with plum colored sweater partially covering hand with green and yellow threaded pattern at sleeve

How do your repairs change the function or story of the object?

I feel like with customer repairs it’s varied whether the function changes or not, plus we don’t always get to hear about the garment’s life once it is back with the wearer. I do find that most people are excited to just be able to wear the garment again without fear of further damage. There is such joy and relief in customers who can get an item repaired that they have become very connected to. It seems that often people don’t truly notice the value in some of their clothes until they might not get to wear them again.

One definite function change I do remember is that I had to do a very large patch repair on the seat of some beautiful silk trousers, which turned out to have been damaged by the owner wearing them to cycle in! I did advise her to maybe not do that in the future and use them for less active pursuits!

end of blue sweater like fabric with colorful threaded design

How visible or invisible is the repair and why is that important?

For the Renewed collection all items are repaired visibly in order to celebrate the craft of repair and allow customers to purchase a unique item. Having a repair be visible embraces aging, change, and imperfection, and this message imbued in something worn so close to the body can be a powerful one.

patterned sweater with yellow stitching

Practically I think that having a repair already visible on a garment will encourage future repairs or will at least make them less daunting. The pieces in the collection also provide a great resource for inspiration for our customers, especially those who are new to visible repairs and aren’t always sure what they’re asking for.

Having said that, the option for our customers to have invisible, or at least discreet, repairs is also important. Not everyone enjoys the aesthetic of repair work, and it isn’t always suitable for the garment and how or where it is worn. For example, clothes worn in corporate professional settings provide this challenge.

closeup of blue sweater with lighter blue threaded pattern

How have people reacted to this project or body of work?

It seems to have been very positive from the feedback I’ve heard and the items are selling well too. I’ve had a few customers who are seeing visible mending like this for the first time and are then really encouraged to use our repair service.

closeup of gold ruffled fabric with threaded patch repair

How do you feel opinions towards mending and repair are changing?

People definitely seem to be embracing it more as an option for them, whereas previously they just saw it as something their parents or grandparents did. I feel like the wartime connection of the “make do and mend” era is slowly dissolving and people are seeing how it can be applied in our modern wardrobes. It is increasingly being seen as a viable way to add newness and individuality to their clothing without investing in a whole new garment. I would say this is largely thanks to the growing bunch of incredible repairers out there that have such a variety of styles and great craftsmanship. It does seem to be creeping away from something shameful and into being aspirational.

partial view of blue and yellow button down shirt with blue and yellow threaded patch

Working at TOAST in this role over the past few years, I have seen the popularity of the repair service grow and grow. To then see other larger brands begin to offer a similar service is incredible. It feels as though it is slowly developing into something that is part and parcel of the consumer experience – hopefully anyway!

rust colored sweater with threaded pattern sewn at top hanging on branch

What do you think the future holds for repair?

Hopefully just more of it. I always say “the more the merrier” when it comes to repairers – there’s plenty more to textiles to be mended (even just in my personal pile!). It would be great to see basic sewing and repair skills being taught to younger people, both for the planet and for themselves. Most people I’ve had the pleasure to teach have spoken of how relaxing and meditative mending is, and how empowering and rewarding it can be. No one loses in the art of repair, and an “art” it is. I hope that more people come to learn this in years to come.

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Katie Treggiden is a purpose-driven journalist, author and, podcaster championing a circular approach to design – because Planet Earth needs better stories. She is also the founder and director of Making Design Circular, a program and membership community for designer-makers who want to join the circular economy. With 20 years’ experience in the creative industries, she regularly contributes to publications such as The Guardian, Crafts Magazine and Monocle24 – as well as being Editor at Large for Design Milk. She is currently exploring the question ‘can craft save the world?’ through an emerging body of work that includes her fifth book, Wasted: When Trash Becomes Treasure (Ludion, 2020), and a podcast, Circular with Katie Treggiden.

Community Profile: Watts seeing bigger picture in role with CAC

Community Profile: Watts seeing bigger picture in role with CAC

If you have interacted with a picture, social media post or promotional material for Columbus Arts Council, chances are you’ve seen Stephanie Watts’ work.

Watts came on board as the marketing coordinator for CAC in December, and she has since fallen in love with the job.

“I went to a couple of shows throughout the interview process just to see what it was like,” Watts said. “In Mississippi, especially, you run into a lot of close-mindedness, and I feel like the art community doesn’t have that as often. It’s usually pretty open. So being able to see that in a town like Columbus is really cool, and I thought it would be cool to be a part of it. Meeting the artists and musicians that come in are just experiences I wouldn’t have had if it hadn’t been for CAC. I really love that they have concerts all the time, which are super fun because I love music. I love art too. I’m just not artistic.”

While she may not be artistic in the painting sense, Watts has a passion for photography, and her new job has honed those skills even more.

“I got my first camera when I graduated high school,” Watts said. “I was really big into taking scenery pictures, but the older I’ve gotten, especially working at CAC, I take a lot more pictures of people now. It’s really different, but I love it.”

When she’s just shooting for her hobby, she leans on old-school methods.

“I love shooting film. It’s my favorite, but it doesn’t really work for what we need (at CAC),” Watts said. “So I shoot film on my own time and digital whenever I’m on the clock. … I’m kind of that person who thinks, anytime anything is happening, ‘Oh that would be a good picture!’”

From health care to art
While Watts has fallen right into the position, it was not what she envisioned when she graduated in 2019 from the Mississippi University for Women.

Her plan then was to become a veterinarian.

“I realized quickly that was not for me,” Watts said. “I’m not big into medical stuff, but my whole family is. I had no idea what I wanted to do at all, so this kind of just fell into my lap.”

Watts knew CAC Executive Director Salem Gibson, and she said he convinced her to give it a shot.

Taking that chance has not only paid dividends for Watts, but it has expanded her understanding and appreciation of the arts.

“(I’ve seen) different art styles that I didn’t know were a thing before working here,” Watts said. “I was like, ‘Oh, it’s either realistic or abstract. There’s no in between.’ Even just in the couple of months I have been there, (my understanding) has been broadened by a huge amount.”

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A computer model that can predict the “memorability” of art

A computer model that can predict the “memorability” of art

Is AI that predicts which paintings are memorable and famous, regardless of content, style, or context, a threat to creativity or tool for positive change?

What makes a painting memorable? Is it how it resonates with you personally? Does it relate to how the work makes you feel, its intrinsic beauty, the boldness of the colors, or the subject it depicts?

The answer, according to a new computer model that predicts the memorability of images, is none of the above. In a recent study, the system found that memory for artwork is predictable, regardless of the content, color, or cultural significance, and no matter who you are or whether you see the art online or in a gallery. It could even predict which paintings were most famous by analyzing images with no additional historical or cultural context.

If quantifiable features of a painting dictate its longevity in our minds, our assumptions about the subjectivity of art may need reassessing. It also raises questions of whether the ultimate “memorable” artwork can be engineered — something that would tempt both advertisers and artists clambering for attention in the dense online landscape.

But while this growing understanding about what makes paintings memorable adds a layer of intrigue to how we experience images, memorability is just one facet of art appreciation. And beyond the art world, the findings could play a role in the development of effective educational materials, and even new approaches to early diagnosis of Alzheimer’s disease.

Memory prediction

How can a computer model account for the fact that your memory of an image might be affected by when and where you see it?

Wilma Bainbridge, assistant professor of psychology at the University of Chicago, and her team devised a series of experiments to assess memorability of artworks found in the Art Institute of Chicago, both through an online activity and after a stroll around the gallery.

“Online, people were engaged in a memory experiment on a computer screen with controlled timing and key press responses,” said Bainbridge. “In person, people had a pretty normal visit to a museum and then indicated their memory later.”

A forgettable landscape. Meetinghouse Hill, Roxbury, Massachusetts 1799 by John Ritto Penniman CC0 Public Domain Designation, The Art Institute of Chicago

Factors such as image size and placement in the gallery impacted memorability, and even though the tasks participants completed were different, the model, called ResMem, successfully predicted which images would be memorable in both cases.

ResMem is a neural network developed to predict people’s memory for images in a lab setting. “It is basically built off of a model similar to the human visual system, though not with anything like human memory built in!” Bainbridge explained. “It has artificial ‘neurons’ and it learns a mapping between an image and its memorability score through us showing it tens of thousands of examples. It can then apply these mappings to new images it’s never seen before.”

The model is available for anyone to use (provided the work is non-profit), and researchers are exploring what makes different images memorable in various situations.

What determines memorability?

The study showed that beauty, color, content, and other superficial features do not dictate memorability. It is not yet clear, however, what does make an image memorable. Despite the model’s success in predicting the results of human trials, it cannot explain what factors it is looking for.

Does this mystery frustrate the researchers? “It’s still an open question we are working on testing,” said Bainbridge. “I’m not frustrated at all not knowing the answer yet because it presents all sorts of exciting things to test!” 

The team does have some ideas, however. “We think memorability is tapping into something richer than just a combination of features you can measure about a painting. We find this for other types of images too – memorability isn’t well predicted by similar types of features for faces, or for real-world objects,” she said.

“We can’t remember everything that we see. So we think ‘memorability’ might be a measure tapping into how our brain prioritizes what should be remembered of the things we see,” Bainbridge continued. “We think this prioritization could be related to something like how easy an image is to process for the brain.”

A threat to the creative world?

Introducing this sort of quantifiable assessment into the art world could put creativity at risk, encouraging artists down an ever-narrowing funnel of creation until all the art in galleries becomes a homogenised stream of unforgettable blandness. 

“I think these results bring up a really interesting question about changes happening in the art landscape,” said Bainbridge. “It seems to me there is an increasing ‘Instagrammification’ of artwork and museums, and this sort of technology would be appealing to those applications.”

Memorability is interesting, and could add a layer to the work of artists and curators, but, as Bainbridge said, art is so much more: “Art is something more than just what images stick in our memories — for example, we found that memorability was not related to beauty or emotion. So, perhaps your goal is not always for a piece to be the most memorable, but something else, like to be the most emotionally evocative.”

The technology could appeal to those outside the art world, as well. “I do worry about the advertising or marketing directions, which is why we prevent for-profit use of ResMem – for example, making an advertisement that is unforgettable,” said Bainbridge. “Luckily, we’ve found in recent work that even if something is very memorable, it doesn’t necessarily influence your decisions, which mitigates my concerns.”

ResMem’s use in the wrong hands are counterbalanced by hope for its positive potential. “I really think the potential positive impacts for Alzheimer’s Disease diagnosis and education are right around the corner,” said Bainbridge. “We are actively working now on making systems that can identify which images are the best at diagnosing early dementia. And, we are also finding that ResMem can significantly predict kids’ memory as young as four years, meaning it could help play a role in the design of learning materials.”

Memorable teaching aids and early diagnosis of mental health conditions would take the technology on an impactful journey from art to application. But Bainbridge and her team aren’t done with the art world yet.

“Our next step is that we plan on running an art contest to challenge artists to create the most memorable piece, or the most forgettable piece. We are curious to see what artists pick up on in terms of what makes something memorable or forgettable. We then plan on holding an entirely memorable exhibit and an entirely forgettable exhibit and see how these paintings influence visitors’ memories.” 

Details of the competition for any artists — or scientists — up to the challenge will be on the lab website in the coming weeks, just don’t forget to check back.

Reference: Trent M. Davis, Wilma A. Bainbridge, Memory for artwork is predictable, PNAS (2023). DOI: 10.1073/pnas.2302389120

Feature image credit: Jessica Pamp on Unsplash

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