Cyanotype Printing: Is It Photography, and How Do You Do It? |

Cyanotype Printing: Is It Photography, and How Do You Do It? |

Explore the Art of the Cyanotype.  In this article, we examine the step-by-step process of cyanotype printing and its place within the realm of photography. You can decide for yourself if you agree whether this is a photographic medium or not.

When it comes to alternative photographic processes, cyanotype is a popular technique employed by photographers and photographic artists. The question of whether cyanotype printing is considered photography sparks ongoing debates within the photographic community. Its unique blend of photographic elements and chemical alchemy makes cyanotype an interesting method worth exploring.

Cyanotype printing involves the use of light-sensitive chemicals to create photographic images. This method was first developed by Sir John Herschel in 1842 as a method for reproducing architectural plans, which we still refer to today as blueprints. The process relies on the reaction between ammonium iron (III) citrate and potassium ferricyanide, which when exposed to ultraviolet light, results in a vibrant blue image on a light-coloured substrate such as paper.

One person who had no trouble describing the cyanotype process as photography was Anna Atkins, who was a member of the Botanical Society of London, pioneering in the field of photography for science. She used cyanotypes to publish “Photographs of British Algae: Cyanotype Impressions” between 1843 and 1853. The process used to create these prints would be better described as photograms, where an image is made by placing an object directly onto the surface of a light-sensitive material and then exposing it to light.

Let’s compare the cyanotype process to prints made from photographic film. Chemical baths and light-sensitive paper produce a positive image, where a film negative acts as a barrier between the light exposure and the paper surface. In the case of traditional film photography, when prints are created in the darkroom through a wet chemical process, no one challenges these as anything other than part of a true photographic process.

Cyanotype is also a wet chemical process. Objects placed on the chemically coated paper flag the light, acting as a barrier between ultraviolet rays and the paper surface. I’m sure you can see where I am going with this comparison. 

Here, I will walk you through my process of creating cyanotypes.  In order to make the cyanotype process even closer to the darkroom process, I will include my own images into the cyanotype medium by first printing them onto inkjet transparency film. This “negative” transparency technique allows for the preservation of the photographic essence while opening up a world of creative opportunities.

Materials

  • Chemicals: potassium ferricyanide and ferric ammonium citrate, usually available to buy together as a cyanotype kit
  • Paint brushes
  • Vessel or jar
  • Watercolour paper
  • Clipframe
  • A4 inkjet printable transparency film
  • Paper or cardboard to protect the surface you work on

Method

Prepare the Chemical Mixture: blend equal parts of ammonium iron (III) citrate and potassium ferricyanide. A typical ratio is 10 grams of each chemical mixed with 100 milliliters of water. Readymade cyanotype kits are widely available to purchase: all you have to do is add water to each bottle and shake, and your chemicals are ready to use.

Printing the Transparencies: Select your photographs, convert to black and white, invert the colors, and then mirror the image before printing them onto transparency film. You can buy printable acetate, which is compatible with inkjet printers to do this.

Prepare your Surfaces and Turn Off the Lights: Protect your workspace from any chemical spillages by putting down old newspaper. Once both solutions are combined, you will need to work in subdued light to ensure that any present ultraviolet light does not diminish the mixed solution or the coated paper. I coated my paper in the evening with a lamp on in the far corner of the room.

Coating the Paper: Apply an even coat of the cyanotype mixture onto watercolor paper or another suitable material using a brush. I chose to use a sponge brush for an even coat. Let the coated paper dry thoroughly; you may use a hairdryer to speed up the process. Apply a second coat and let dry. Put your coated paper in dark storage, such as a light tight bag or envelope until ready to use.

Assembling the Printing Frame: Place your coated paper and transparency inside a clipframe. This ensures proper contact between the transparency and the coated paper during exposure and also keeps your paper safe from contaminants outside. Place a black cloth or card over your frame until you are ready to begin the exposure.

Expose Your Cyanotypes: The exposure time for cyanotypes can vary depending on several factors, including the strength of UV light, the density of your negative or object, and the desired result. However, as a general guideline, exposure time can be anywhere between 3 to 20 minutes depending on the weather and levels of UV exposure where you live. For better accuracy without wasting too much coated paper, consider exposing a test strip – covering a section of the strip at varying intervals. I created two test strips, the first was exposed at intervals of 3, 5, and 8 minutes, and the second was exposed at intervals of 10, 12, and 15 minutes. This allowed me to make a judgement on the best exposure, which I considered to be between 12 and 15 seconds for the light conditions. If you are using a UV lamp or other artificial source, exposure times may need to be longer. No UV bulb is as powerful as the sun.

Rinse and Fix the Print: After exposure, remove the transparency from the frame and immediately rinse the coated paper in running water until the runoff appears clear. At this stage, you will be able to see detail in your image and the color will be a reasonably deep hue. Hang the prints to dry, and over the course of a few hours, the hue will deepen to its final shade. To speed up the final hue reveal, submerge the print in a fixative bath made of one tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide dissolved in a liter of water for a few minutes. Rinse the print again in running water.

Drying and Displaying Your Cyanotype Print: My neighbors must really wonder about me, but I peg my cyanotypes onto the washing line to drip dry. Once they are dry, flatten if needed between the pages of a good coffee table book, and then, you can proudly display your cyanotype print.

There is something very appealing about having my work displayed as a cyanotype. I wouldn’t normally consider hanging these images, but the added process has made me appreciate these images a little more than I normally would, and I think one or two might make it onto my walls.

Have I convinced you that cyanotype is a legitimate photographic medium? We’ve explored the fascinating world of cyanotype printing together, and now, it’s your turn! Whether you’re a seasoned cyanotype enthusiast or just discovering this alternative photographic method for the first time, we would love to hear about your experiences, experiments, and creative outcomes. Share your tips and even your own cyanotype prints in the comments.

Auckland before-and-after photos: Photographer captures unique city perspective

Auckland before-and-after photos: Photographer captures unique city perspective

Photographer Brian Donovan feels like he is time-travelling whenever he walks through central Auckland.

Donovan, who has spent his whole life living in Auckland, has been capturing photos around the city since he was in high school in the 1960s.

After leaving school, he continued to capture snaps around the growing city, with his work now an invaluable resource for historians and publishers.

Donovan’s photography project, Now and Then, was inspired by images taken in the early 1900s by Henry Winkelmann.

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“I know what was there. I almost feel like I’m time-travelling walking through this old world that is now gone,” Donovan told TVNZ’s Seven Sharp.

Donovan said he would go to a location as many as four times to get the perspective right.

The Sky Tower has changed many views in Auckland.

Brian Donovan

The Sky Tower has changed many views in Auckland.

Hancock Park District hopes to spark a lifelong passion of photography with a two-day camp for students

Hancock Park District hopes to spark a lifelong passion of photography with a two-day camp for students


Hancock Park District hopes to spark a lifelong passion of photography with a two-day camp for students

FINDLAY, OH (WLIO) – Middle schoolers get to learn about and practice photography skills in a camp offered through the Hancock County Park District.



Hancock Park District hopes to spark a lifelong passion of photography with a two-day camp for students

During a two-day camp, the students will be taught photography principles and techniques, which they will then use to capture pictures of wildlife and nature at the Riverbend Recreation Area. Campers’ favorite photos will be displayed in a gallery on the Hancock Park District’s Facebook page at the end of the camp.



Hancock Park District hopes to spark a lifelong passion of photography with a two-day camp for students

“We’re covering just the basics of photography today. Just working on how to get different exposures, how to set up a nice and correct image, and that’s what we’re working on right now inside. But after we take all of our skills that we’ve built up in here, we’re actually going to go out on the trails and find things out in nature to build up on our wildlife photography skills, and hopefully, just build a lifelong passion for the art of photography,”

The park will hold another photography camp for high schoolers next week.

Hancock Park District teaching students about wildlife photography

Hancock Park District teaching students about wildlife photography

FINDLAY, OH (WLIO) – Middle schoolers get to learn about and practice photography skills in a camp offered through the Hancock County Park District.

During a two-day camp, the students will be taught photography principles and techniques, which they will then use to capture pictures of wildlife and nature at the Riverbend Recreation Area. Campers’ favorite photos will be displayed in a gallery on the Hancock Park District’s Facebook page at the end of the camp.

“We’re covering just the basics of photography today. Just working on how to get different exposures, how to set up a nice and correct image, and that’s what we’re working on right now inside. But after we take all of our skills that we’ve built up in here, we’re actually going to go out on the trails and find things out in nature to build up on our wildlife photography skills, and hopefully, just build a lifelong passion for the art of photography,”

The park will hold another photography camp for high schoolers next week.

5 Steps to Making Money as a Beginner Photographer

5 Steps to Making Money as a Beginner Photographer

It is one thing to work on your technique and creative voice, but making money with your work is an entirely separate skill. If you are working on developing your photography income, check out this great video tutorial that shares five actionable steps for making money as a beginner photographer.

Coming to you from Kevin Raposo, this fantastic video tutorial discusses five steps to take for making money as a newer photographer. One of the best bits of advice I can give to new photographers looking to build their income is simply to accept low-risk jobs to start. No matter how good your technique is and how prepared you think you are, there are some things you can only absorb by experience and often, by making mistakes and learning from them. Obviously, it is better to make such mistakes when their impact will not be significant. I have known photographers who have taken on weddings for their first paid job, and while some made it through alright, others quickly found themselves overwhelmed, which led to disastrous results. Like anything, it is best to start small and build up as you gain confidence and experience. Check out the video above for the full rundown from Raposo. 

Artist Chiura Obata

Artist Chiura Obata

The family of Japanese American artist Chiura Obata (1885–1975) recently made a gift of seven artworks to the Petrie Institute of Western American Art at the Denver Art Museum.

Obata, one of the most significant artists working on the West Coast during the last century, trained in Japan in both modern and traditional art styles including nihonga (painting that uses mineral pigments, organic pigments, and sometimes ink applied to silk or paper using brushes) and sumi-e (ink painting). After emigrating to the United States in 1903, he applied these techniques to his representations of what he called Great Nature, thereby paying homage to the landscapes that inspired him.

Obata’s decades-long tenure as an art professor at the University of California, Berkeley (1932–54) was interrupted from 1942–45 during World War II when he and his family, along with thousands of other people of Japanese heritage living on the West Coast, were forcibly relocated to incarceration camps constructed in remote locations across the American West. First sent to a relocation center in Tanforan, California, Obata was then moved to the camp at Topaz, Utah. At Tanforan and Topaz, Obata helped found art schools that, according to scholar ShiPu Wang, “educated, inspired, and comforted generations of Japanese Americans” during a time of trauma.

Three artworks now in the Denver Art Museum’s collection stem from the artist’s time at Topaz. In Landscape Near Topaz, rendered in black ink and painted in 1943, a small house in the right foreground underscores the monumentality of this landscape. This may reflect both Obata’s impressions of the grandeur of the space as well as the overwhelming experience of being forcibly incarcerated.

In Clouds Over Water Tower, dated January 29, 1943, the Topaz camp water tower rises above a sere landscape. Small figures rendered in black ink emphasize the scale of this structure. Gray clouds punctured by patches of blue sky create a chilling winter backdrop to a scene that is both impressive and oppressive. Water Tower Sketch is the preparatory pen sketch for the watercolor.

While forced incarceration during World War II is an important chapter in Japanese American history, it is crucial to acknowledge the richness of the Japanese American experience before and after this trauma. Obata’s elegant watercolor Flower Arrangement, painted on May 2, 1934, provides a glimpse into his pre-war life in California. His wife Haruko Kohashi (1892–1989) created this ikebana, or flower arrangement. In her 1940 book An Illustrated Handbook of Japanese Flower Arrangement, Haruko wrote about this centuries-old Japanese art tradition that “The essence of flower arrangement is the molding of natural beauty into art.” Her husband provided illustrations for her book, underscoring their mutual artistic respect.

Obata’s post-war watercolor Jemez Spring (painted in 1949) animates this New Mexico location through calligraphic washes of vivid colors. In two undated watercolors featuring Native American dancers from the Southwest, Obata’s application of pigment and dynamic line reinforce a sense of movement.

As a group, these artworks attest to the time Obata spent traveling the United States observing its landscapes and cultures. They help us tell the challenging story of Japanese American incarceration and demonstrate Obata’s belief that “at least in the world of art there shouldn’t be any walls between the East and the West.”

The Art League may have found a new home on Slaters Lane

The Art League may have found a new home on Slaters Lane
The Art League is one of several Old Town North tenants being displaced by new development at Montgomery Center (300 Montgomery Street), but a permit filed with the City of Alexandria indicated the arts-focused non-profit could be moving to the former ABC Imaging location at 800 Slaters Lane. A Special Use Permit has been filed