A Silk Dress from 1888 Contained a Hidden Pocket with Coded Messages. After a Decade, Someone Finally Solved the Mystery

A Silk Dress from 1888 Contained a Hidden Pocket with Coded Messages. After a Decade, Someone Finally Solved the Mystery

All images © Sara Rivers Cofield, shared with permission

If the phrases “Bismark Omit leafage buck bank” or “Paul Ramify loamy event false new event” mean anything to you, your help has been needed since 2014. For the rest of us, the truth behind these nonsensical lines was only recently solved after a plea from curator and archaeologist Sara Rivers Cofield.

The cryptic messages are just two of dozens like them that Cofield found scrawled on thin, translucent sheets of paper buried inside the hidden pocket of a dress. She bought the bronze silk gown from an antique shop in Maine about ten years ago and inspected its impeccably preserved components when she returned home only to uncover a confounding surprise.

 

wrinkled translucent paper with cursive writing and blue lines

Detail of one of the papers found in the dress

As Cofield writes in a blog post, the dress is typical to those of the mid-1880s and has several unique features. Its buttons, which portray a Shakespearean motif of “a despondent Ophelia,” were all intact and present, something not often seen on vintage garments as the fasteners tend to be harvested and sold separately. A tag signed “Bennett” is also sewn into the bodice, presumably pointing to the former owner.

But the most interesting find emerged when Cofield lifted the overskirt and found a cotton pocket tucked deep inside near the right wrist, accessible only by lifting the outer piece of fabric high up to the waist. The papers were concealed inside this tiny opening. “My first thought was maybe a writing exercise? Or some kind of list? But there are also numbers between the lines, each line is marked off with a different color, and there are weird time-like notes in the margin; 10pm, 1113PM, and 1124 P,” she says in the post.

 

a silk skirt lifted up to reveal a hidden pocket in a cotton skirt lining

The hidden pocket in the cotton skirt lining

As reported this week in The New York Times, data analyst Wayne S. Chan from the University of Manitoba finally uncovered their meaning after several years of study. He reveals in a report that the mysterious phrases were telegraph messages describing weather observations often used by the Army and later the weather bureau, sent to stations around the U.S. and Canada throughout 1888.

Although Chan doesn’t have a hypothesis for why such messages were tucked inside the dress, he was able to use old maps to miraculously pinpoint the day of May 27, 1888, and entirely break the codes. Livia Albeck-Ripka writes in the article:

“Bismark Omit leafage buck bank” indicated the reading was taken at Bismarck station, in the Dakota Territory. “Omit” was for an air temperature of 56 degrees and pressure of 0.08 inches of mercury, though the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration has said the true reading could have been higher. “Leafage” for a dew point of 32 degrees, observed at 10 p.m. “Buck,” clear weather, with no precipitation and a northerly wind. “Bank,” a wind velocity of 12 miles per hour, and a clear sunset.

Since Cofiled first shared her findings a decade ago, there’s been much speculation about the owner of the garment, including whether she was a spy, trapeze artist, or part of the Orphan Trains that moved children from congested Eastern cities to the western U.S. throughout the 1800s. While we now know the meaning of the messages, the mystery behind why she decided to stash these notes in such an inconspicuous spot remains.

The discovery also coincides with the recent death of Maureen Sweeney whose daily forecasts in Ireland helped influence the the D-Day invasion in 1944.

 

two images, both of wrinkled translucent paper with cursive writing and blue lines on them

The two papers found in the garment

two images, on the left is a side view and the right is a back view of a bronze silk dress with stripes down the bodice and a long line of buttons. the garment has a full skirt, long sleeves, and high neck. a large bustle is at the back

a detail image of a bronze silk dress with stripes down the bodice and a long line of buttons. the garment has a high neck, and the buttons have an ornate motif

Do stories and artists like this matter to you? Become a Colossal Member today and support independent arts publishing for as little as $5 per month. The article A Silk Dress from 1888 Contained a Hidden Pocket with Coded Messages. After a Decade, Someone Finally Solved the Mystery appeared first on Colossal.

Lauded Sports Photographer Jean Fruth speaks at Lone Tree Arts Center

Lauded Sports Photographer Jean Fruth speaks at Lone Tree Arts Center

From World Series winners to baseball dreamers, Jean Fruth has not only seen it all, but she’s also captured it on camera. Fruth is a professional sports photographer and one of the few women covering Major League Baseball.  As a woman in a predominately male industry, Fruth has experienced the pains of breaking through glass ceilings.

“In the early days, I was many times the only woman in the photo wells and you know that had it’s challenges. But, the great news is today we’re seeing more women in the photo wells, more women on the sidelines, and more women in sports photography. We’re seeing team photographers that are women and wire photographers and it’s really an exciting time,” Fruth said during CBS Colorado Mornings at 9.   

Jean Fruth Images


Sports is particularly difficult to shoot because of all of the quick action. Fruth has perfected the art of getting the shot within the action.

“Any athlete repeats themselves, like they do the same thing over and over again. They catch the ball the same way. They throw the ball the same way. They kick the soccer ball the same way, so my advice would be the more you know the sport the more you know the athlete the more consistently you’re going to get the shot. So, knowing your sport,” Fruth explained. “And, you know, gear makes a big difference. Gear matters. The cameras that I have… I shoot with a Sony camera that shoots 30 frames per second, so that makes me look like a genius. And now there’s a camera coming out that shoots 100 frames per second, so i would say to get the best gear that you can get for your budget because it does make a difference in capturing that fast action.”

9a-kcnc-newscast-friday-frame-42392.jpg

Jean Fruth Images


She’s recently published a book called “Grassroots Baseball,” which is an in depth look at how love of the game can bring people from all socio-economic groups together.

“When I travel and I shoot the professional game around the world, I also shoot the amateur game, the grassroots game. It’s my favorite part of the game. It’s before contracts and money. It’s for pure love of the game, and that to me is the joy. So ‘Grassroots Baseball’, my first book ‘Where Legions Begin,’ I connected with Hall of Famers… Baseball Hall of Famers and asked them if they would tell their stories growing up playing baseball in their early years and tied it with these grassroots images. And, that’s how Grassroots Baseball began and came about. And after that, my second book was through my not-for-profit Grassroots Baseball, is now a not-for-profit, and that was along Route 66, when i tied in all the Americana and spent 3-years along Route 66 documenting the game and documenting the Americana,” she said. 

Fruth is in Denver to speak as part of the Changemakers Speaker series at the Lone Tree Arts Center. The Changemakers Speaker series is new to the center. It’s designed to bring together great minds to discuss their lives and work. This first series is featuring three female photographers who have documented the world in distinctive ways. Fruth’s lecture is titled “From Sandlots to Stadiums” and will focus on the role of women in baseball.

“Women aren’t new to baseball. The door has opened and closed for us many years throughout history. But now the door is blown off the hinges, and we are making headlines every week.. on the field, off the field, around the globe so I’m really excited to talk about women and baseball at the theatre tonight. I’m excited to be at that beautiful theatre,” Fruth said.

LINK: Changemaker Speaker Series at the Lone Tree Arts Center

“From Sandlots to Stadium”, Jean Fruth will be speaking at the Lone Tree Arts Center on Friday, January 19, 2023 at 8 p.m. 

Seen Together: Acquisitions in Photography

Seen Together: Acquisitions in Photography

This year marks 100 years since J.P. Morgan Jr. transformed his father’s private library into one of New York’s leading public institutions. To kick off the programme for the Morgan Library & Museum’s anniversary year, this exhibition brings together more than 40 previously unseen works from its photography collection (26 January–26 May). Among them are portraits of actors, writers and artists, including Marcel Duchamp, Yoko Ono and Yayoi Kusama. Highlights include 100 Boots (1971–73) by Eleanor Antin, one of the best-known works of mail art: 51 postcards of arrangements of boots, which the artist sent to dozens of friends and public figures. Find out more from the Morgan Library & Museum’s website.

Preview below | View Apollo’s Art Diary

Reading Position for Second Degree Burn Jones Beach, Long Island, New York (1970), Dennis Oppenheim. The Morgan Library & Museum, New York. © Estate of Dennis Oppenheim

Untitled (Self Portrait), (n.d.), Ralph Eugene Meatyard. The Morgan Library & Museum, New York. Courtesy Fraenkel Gallery, San Francisco; © Estate of Ralph Eugene Meatyard

100 Boots (detail; 1971–73), Eleanor Antin. The Morgan Library & Museum, New York. © 2023 Eleanor Antin

Photography Exhibit Aims to Remember Holocaust Victims

Photography Exhibit Aims to Remember Holocaust Victims

A new exhibit at King’s College aims to remember Holocaust victims thanks to a Lackawanna County photographer.

“Voices, A Holocaust Remembrance” will be featured in the college’s Widmann Art Gallery until January 25th

Scranton photographer, Michael Mirabito features photos he shot while on trips to Israel and the sites of WWII Nazi concentration camps.

In addition to impacting the community, Mirabito hopes that college students will check out the exhibit.

“I hope it can raise a conversation for students to look at the world around us and what is going on. What can you do to try to alleviate some of these problems and issues that are still occurring” Mirabito explained.

For information about how you can check out the exhibit, click here.

INFINITI’s Vision Qe Concept Is a Soaring Gesture of Flight + Flow

INFINITI’s Vision Qe Concept Is a Soaring Gesture of Flight + Flow

Concepts are rarely intended to be developed much beyond the exploratory phase, yet the projects still require precious time and valuable resources – both a blessing and bane. On the surface, the INFINITI Vision Qe concept is notable for its elegant and futuristic silhouette, one revealing the brand’s vision for their own EV fleet. Behind the scenes, and from a design perspective, the Vision Qe concept represents a quiet revolution – an example of the automotive industry’s migration away from physical clay modeling toward fully digital explorations intended to streamline both the development of concepts and production vehicles in the era of EVs.

Three pencil sketches of what would eventually become the Vision Qe, as drawn by Kazuki Aoyama.

Just like any other concept before it, the INFINITI Vision Qe concept began as a series of rough sketches, aggressively drawn with swept lines of aerodynamic purpose. “Everything is anchored around a single pure gesture,” said INFINITI Exterior Designer Kazuki Aoyama. A single line flows from the INFINITI emblem at the front, along the bodyside, and accelerates towards the rear, and everything follows that line,”

Early 3D render silhouettes of the Vision Qe concept

From those initial sketches, the INFINITI design team would explore new methodologies to transform drawings into a dimensional model. The quiet revolution was spearheaded by Kenji Yamauchi, a digital and clay modeler within the global INFINITI design team. With Yamauchi’s experience working in traditional clay and digital tools, the nine designers were able to establish a new “phy-gital” process allowing the INFINITI team to transform a digital render into physical 50cm concept model. This allowed the exterior design team to examine the concept’s character and proportions without the time and labor intensive requirements of modeling the vehicle from clay.

Early 3D printed silhouette of the Vision Qe concep

The early 3D-printed silhouette of the Vision Qe concept portrays a sinuous and streamlined form intended to capture the aerodynamic pose of an eagle diving for prey with its wings tucked back to reduce drag and maximize speed – more sculptural than typical automotive models.

Speedform model of the Vision Qe inspire day Constantin Brancusi's Bird in Space sculpture.

Team members studied Japanese eagles in flight, resulting in a speed form model referencing avian silhouettes and the work of sculptor Constantin Brancusi, particularly his gesture of flight, Bird in Space (L’Oiseau dans l’espace).

“As designers, we aren’t seeking to create something that’s just beautiful, rather, we want to create something that evokes a deeper response,” said INFINITI Exterior Designer Masanobu Ino. “If people feel a sense of shock or intrigue when looking at the Vision Qe concept, that’s more in line with our intention and brings to life the philosophy of Kabuku. Pairing beauty with a deeper emotional response was our goal.” The resulting full-scale concept reveals a sleek fastback sedan that looks nearly ready for production (sans its immensely intricate and beautiful wheels).

All-electric Vision Qe fastback sedan parked in a golden autumn hued setting of trees.

Photos fail to capture the unique color chemistry explored in developing the concept’s Shadow blue paint, a hue that changes depending upon viewing distance thanks to its mixture of carbon nanotubes, glass, and gold flakes to bring a sense of depth and mystique. INFINITI says the paint is intended to evoke a sense of depth as one experiences while gazing out into “a distant galaxy.”

All-electric Vision Qe fastback sedan parked in a golden autumn hued setting of trees.

All-electric Vision Qe fastback sedan parked in a golden autumn hued setting of trees.

INFINITI designers also replaced the brand’s signature double arch radiator grille with a graphic front facia sculpted with lines further accentuated by LED lights.

All-electric Vision Qe fastback sedan parked on black asphalt with white wall in the background.

All-electric Vision Qe fastback sedan parked on black asphalt with white wall in the background.

All-electric Vision Qe fastback sedan parked on black asphalt with white wall in the background.

The Vision Qe concept’s Shadow blue paint is further enhanced by the contrast against its dynamic and graphic golden spoked wheels, a design featuring a subtle gradation applied from the outer to innermost area of the spokes.

Close up of the all-electric INFINITI Vision Qe fastback sedan's intricate spoked wheels.

Rear angled view of the all-electric INFINITI Vision Qe fastback sedan with rear lights illuminated golden.

When parked in standby mode, the Vision Qe glows with a welcoming warm, golden light. Once the driver presses the car’s start button, switching the vehicle to the drive mode the frontal illumination switches to white, while the rear digital piano keys transform to a vibrant shade of red.

The Vision Qe concept is currently on display at INFINITI’s global headquarters in Yokohama, Japan, and scheduled to make its public debut further along in 2024 at a yet to be announced motor show. We can only hope to see some of the sleek fastback sedan’s profile glide its way into the form of a production vehicle soon thereafter.

Gregory Han is a Senior Editor at Design Milk. A Los Angeles native with a profound love and curiosity for design, hiking, tide pools, and road trips, a selection of his adventures and musings can be found at gregoryhan.com.

Call for local sculptor submissions: Sylvester Manor plans outdoor exhibit

Call for local sculptor submissions: Sylvester Manor plans outdoor exhibit
Local artists are invited to submit proposals for a new outdoor exhibition, Sculpture@Sylvester Manor, planned for this summer. Curated by art dealer and adviser Tom Cugliani, the exhibition will take place on the historic landscape of Sylvester Manor from June 21 until Sep. 7, 2024. Visual and/or written documentation proposals should be submitted by March…