Native

Teaching Truths: How 4 Native Artists Care for Their Culture

Teaching Truths: How 4 Native Artists Care for Their Culture

Editor’s Note: In partnership with the Doris Duke Foundation and the Sheri and Les Biller Family Foundation, TCG’s THRIVE! Uplifting Theatres of Color initiative offered $1,140,000, equaling 46 grants in 3 categories, to U.S.-based (including Tribal lands and Territories) Black Theatres, Indigenous Theatres, and Theatres of Color (BITOC). In addition to the funds, 21 BITOC receiving RECOGNIZE category grants also participated in REBUILD, a learning cohort working with BIPOC consultants to strengthen their effectiveness in specific areas. The initiative was created with an advisory committee of 14 BIPOC theatre leaders and artists. To further uplift these companies, American Theatre magazine approached myself (Regina Victor, editor of Rescripted) and fellow cultural critic Jose Solís to curate and edit six articles highlighting the RECOGNIZE companies, with each of us guiding three pieces. It was our work to divide and then re-thread these companies together into articles with common themes, source writers and assign them, and edit their drafts, with American Theatre seeing to the final copy edit. These stories are examined through the lens of this year’s critically focused Rising Leaders of Color cohort (Amanda L. Andrei, Citlali Pizarro, and afrikah selah), as well as three Chicago-based writers (Dillon Chitto, Madie Doppelt, and Tina El Gamal). This six-part essay series showcases 21 examples of people doing the work, championing their culture, and finding creative solutions to generational problems. Thanks to Jose for being a wonderful thought partner in this project, and to Emilya Cachapero and Raksak Kongseng for their invitation and support.


How do we pass along stories and knowledge? What kinds of stories and knowledge do we share with others? And how do we maintain respect for stories and the cultures they come from, whether our own or those of others?

These questions animate and motivate the work of Native and Indigenous theatre artists, including four leaders I recently spoke with: Murielle Borst-Tarrant, artistic director of Safe Harbors NYC; Rhiana Yazzie, artistic director of New Native Theatre in St. Paul, Minn.; Opalanietet, founder of the New York-based Eagle Project; and Sharon Day, creator of Ikidowin Youth Ensemble in Minneapolis.

In talking with them about oral tradition, oral history, and language, a number of deeply entwined subjects arose: politics, geography, civil rights, and roles and tensions within the American theatre. These four Native/Indigenous artists share the origins and motivations behind their theatre companies, community service, and histories of performance across the continent.

imageMurielle Borst Tarrant.
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Murielle Borst Tarrant.

Safe Harbors’ Murielle Borst-Tarrant noted that for many Native folks in urban areas, it was shared oral histories that kept their culture alive while they were in boarding schools apart from their homelands. A sense of displacement ran even deeper than their generation, of course, and many of the stories they shared were “about what it means to survive when we had to leave our homelands. My family has been in New York City since 1800, but what I remember is us always talking about going back home. It’s important to talk about how there was a time in the United States where you could not practice your language, you could not practice your culture, we couldn’t do any ceremonies. It was against the law. We were put into boarding schools.”

Borst-Tarrant recalled stories told by her mother, Muriel Miguel, an accomplished Native theatremaker and co-founder of New York City’s Spiderwoman Theater, about “survivors from boarding schools who came to New York City for work, and they wanted to teach.” These survivors taught Miguel and her friends “songs and dances that weren’t even from their tribes,” in an effort to preserve them. For Miguel and her generation, this exchange began in the 1950s, and by the ’70s, when Borst-Tarrant grew up, “Native people weren’t taking any shit anymore.” Miguel taught her daughter “about fighting, not for rights, but existence in this country. We were being completely erased out.”

It’s a struggle that goes on both within and outside the theatre, particularly when Native storytellers “entrust the world with our culture, with our oral traditions, with our spirituality, but there’s still extraction, spiritual extraction, cultural extraction, that happens to our communities,” Borst-Tarrant said. “We want people to understand what we’re coming from, but at the same time we have cultural exhaustion. We’re always very afraid, because our oral traditions have always been used against us.”

Rhiana Yazzie.

For Rhiana Yazzie at New Native Theatre, making theatre is a way to care not only for stories but for people. “I saw that there was this time period in a person’s life where you were no longer a youth, you couldn’t do youth programs, and you weren’t an elder—this is a time when people fall through the cracks,” she said, noting that this demographic has been at the core of her service in theatre. “That’s why we work with adults the majority of the time.”

New Native Theater serves this community with full knowledge, Yazzie said, that “coming from a lived experience as a Native person, there are so many other things that need attending to—many different kinds of disparities in our community. There’s language revitalization, there’s the unhoused population, there’s our opiate crisis, etc. If you took these deficits out of the average life of the Native person, maybe they would have the ability to say, ‘Hey, I’m just going to focus on theatre, and I’m going to make plays that look like plays that the American theatre sees.’ It’s a huge luxury for Native folks to be able to focus on something like that. I know that I’m really, really lucky to be able to.”

Even as Yazzie recognizes how fortunate she is, she also recognizes that “the practices of theatre are so harmful that Native folks, when they experience it, it’s like, ‘I don’t want to do that, I don’t want to contort myself to do these things that are so incredibly harmful’—i.e., leave your children behind, miss birthdays and funerals, not be a part of your community.”

She notes a bitter irony in this: “What we’re told as BIPOC people is, if you make theatre, you’ll better your community. But you have to sacrifice your own place in the community or your own financial well-being, or your own ability to have a family, because the arts does not afford many people to own a house or to have a family.”

Opalanietet.

After writer/director/performer Opalanietet worked on Carlisle—a play with music that satirized the infamous Carlisle Indian Industrial School before it closed in 1914 so it could send its students off to be disposable soldiers in World War I—he founded the Eagle Project in 2012 so that others could feel similarly empowered “to explore the American identity through the performing arts and our Native American heritage, so that we, as Americans, may have a more accurate recollection of our past and better understanding of our present, for a just and more inclusive vision for our future.”

The Eagle Project is designed to help Native artists develop new plays, give them a platform to practice their craft, and, as Opalanietet put it, create “the breathing room to find our more authentic selves.”

He noted the importance of this effort, “especially here in New York City, where Broadway is on the Broad Way, the Lenape path, and there’s no—to my knowledge anyway, and I’ve been in New York City a long time—there’s no plaque to honor that. There’s no information about that. We finally have a plaque in the lower part of the island about Werpoes Village, which was a Lenape village down near a spring there. But there’s very little as to the culture and the performance of the Lenape.”

He mentioned that he’s proud to share a lineage with other N.Y.-based Native artists, including Spiderwoman Theater, the Colorado Sisters, and AMERINDA. But to his knowledge, Eagle Project is “the only Lenape-led performing arts company on the traditional homelands of Lenape in Lenapehoking, which is basically the lower Hudson, and also Delaware River valleys.”

Sharon Day.

Meanwhile, in Minneapolis, Sharon Day’s Ikidowin Youth Ensemble is creating an outlet and providing theatre training to young people, who are “every bit as professional as any actors,” said Day. “When I see them, they make me so happy.”

Day’s work in theatre began as a response to the AIDS crisis in the 1980s. While working for the state of Minnesota, she found ways to create opportunities to address the public health emergency. “If we’re going to prevent HIV among young people, we need to educate them,” she explained, noting the stigma at the time of working with individuals and communities affected by HIV and AIDS. “I said, I think we can use storytelling. This is how we learn. We can take storytelling and we can create plays.”

Day counted the program as having around 30 young participants, from a “tier 1” level that includes those with a lot of experience in theatre and film, to new groups that come in each year. “Some of them hang around, and some of them don’t,” she said. Crucially, she added, some of the kids at Ikidowin live in homes with drug and alcohol use, and the program has helped them get through high school and college. In some cases, Day said, she’s working with the children of folks she helped before. “Everything that, just in terms of public health, one would do in a prevention program, we are doing: reinforcing, strengthening cultural identity, providing them with the knowledge they need.”

Over the years, Day has guided the growth of the program to address additional community concerns. One of the plays she wrote, “We Do It For the Water,” presents a non-violent message about Indigenous struggles to protect water and deals with “some of the water wars and Standing Rock,” referring to the nearly year-long protest by Natives and others of the Dakota Access Pipeline, which cuts through ancient tribal land. The play was directed by her grandson, Sir Curtis Kirby III, director of the Ikidowin Youth Theater Ensemble.

“My grandson always says, our stories are just stories until you see them come to life,” Day reflects. “And then we can see that they are the evident truth of our teachings.”

Amanda L. Andrei (she/hers) is a playwright, literary translator, and theatre critic based in Los Angeles.

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Indigenous Weaver Naiomi Glasses Is Ralph Lauren’s First Artist In Residence

Indigenous Weaver Naiomi Glasses Is Ralph Lauren’s First Artist In Residence
Phillip Bread

Phillip Bread

Ryan Redcorn and Darren Sells

“It’s incredible seeing a lot of brands are starting to work with the actual Indigenous artists, instead of pulling inspiration from us,” says Glasses. “It’s beautiful to see that collaboration because you get to see these designs interpreted from these original artists.”

It’s a full-circle moment for Glasses, who often wore Ralph Lauren clothing as a child. Once she and her brother chose to weave full-time, their business-minded parents asked them to come up with some practical goals. She replied that she’d like to one day make floor rugs, blankets and clothing with Diné designs. Asked to write down which brands she wanted to collaborate with, she put Ralph Lauren at the top of the list. Seeing her name on the tags beside Ralph Lauren’s is completely unreal, she says. “There are no words to describe it.”

On a video call ahead of the launch, Glasses wears a multitude of turquoise and silver jewellery pieces – they appear on her fingers, earlobes and scarf – representing each of the seven Navajo and Hopi artist families whose jewellery she curated for the collection’s campaign. A selection of their handcrafted pieces was used to style the capsule and will also be available for purchase.

Quannah Chasinghorse

Quannah Chasinghorse

Ryan Redcorn and Darren Sells

Phillip Bread

Phillip Bread

Ryan Redcorn and Darren Sells

“I wanted to lift up other Indigenous artists along with me because this is going to be a huge release,” she says. “It’s a big platform, and I would love to be able to share that along with others.”

Shop and Stroll highlights Native artists

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Indigenous artists highlighted at Wabanaki Winter Market

Indigenous artists highlighted at Wabanaki Winter Market

ORONO, Maine (WABI) – Crowds flocked to the Collins Center for the Arts Saturday for the 29th annual Wabanaki Winter Market.

The event is said to be New England’s largest holiday gathering for Wabanaki artists. Organizers say this year saw the most vendors yet.

Organizer Jennifer Neptune describes the market as, “A place for Wabanaki artists to sell their work directly to the public. People coming here can find a number of artists from throughout Maine, the Wabanaki tribes, Penobscot, Passamaquoddy, Mi’kmaq and Maliseet. And there are baskets, basket makers, wood carvers, birch bark artists, bead workers, lots of jewelry, photographers, two dimensional artists. There’s just a variety of art forms here.”

Attendees perused vendors, visited the in-house Hudson Museum and watched music performances and live demonstrations of traditional art forms by Indigenous people from all over Maine.

Eldon Hanning, 72, is from the Mi’kmaq tribe in Presque Isle and he says he was been attending the market for decades. At the market, he hosted a demonstration on preparing wood for basket weaving.

Rolfe Richter, a flute maker from Sipayik, is another vendor that has been selling at the winter market for years. In addition to selling his flutes, passersby can listen to the melodic sounds of him playing.

Both Hanning and Richter do not sell their goods online. Instead, they rely on events like this for business and exposure.

“Culture wise, we show who we are, we are still here. We show that we are people that you can get to know,” says Richter. “When you smile, the world smiles with you and this is the perfect place for that.”

For Neptune, she says the market has significance in the past, present, and future.

“It helps our traditions to have places where we can sell directly to the public. Helps keep those traditions going, having places where you can depend on every year and it helps traditions get passed down and it helps our local economy,” Neptune explains. “You’re really buying local when you buy from a Wabanaki artist!”

The Wabanaki Winter Market is hosted by the Hudson Museum and the Maine Indian Basketmakers Alliance. For more information, including artist profiles, visit the Hudson Museum’s website.

Here’s What’s Going in Indian Country, December 9 —14

Here’s What’s Going in Indian Country, December 9 —14

This week in Indian Country, there are plenty of events for everyone to enjoy. From powwows to Native American holiday markets, educational conferences, and workshops, here is Native News Online’s weekly round-up of arts, culture, and entertainment offerings around Indian Country.

Native American Social 
Flushing, NY

December 9, 2023

This special event will feature artwork, dancing, drumming & singing, shared stories and community building over refreshments by Deana Smith’s Party Perfectionists. Join in at the Flushing Town Hall in collaboration with NativeTec, Niamuck Land Trust, Ma’s House & BIPOC Art Studio, and Shinnecock Kelp Farmers.

Native American Portal Youth Winter Show 
Santa Fe, NM

December 9, 2023

Support the talents from the next generation of Native American artists and craftspeople. Youth artists ages five to seventeen who specialize in a variety of artistic mediums will be showcasing and selling their work in the museum’s main lobby. The ever-changing array of handcrafted items include pottery, textiles, and jewelry made of traditional materials such as turquoise, coral, and silver.

Walking the Medicine Wheel
Patterson, NY

December 10, 2023

Open a dialog with your spirit animals and listen to what nature is saying or showing you. Join in to learn more about the Medicine Wheel, also known as the Sacred Hoop, has been used by Native American tribes for health and healing. You will learn to connect to the wheel through meditations and seek its wisdom. 

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Lakota Nation Education Conference
Rapid City, SD

December 12-16, 2023

In its 44th year, the Lakota Nations Education Conference has been offering quality educational training to teachers, parents, paraprofessionals, administration, school boards, and all staff that serve Native American students. The conference is held at the Ramkota Inn and is devoted to offering valuable information to the counselors, PE teachers, school nurses, and other health staff.

Strawtown Enclosure
Noblesville, IN

December 9, 2023

Staff will conduct tours of the Strawtown Enclosure, a Native American village that was inhabited over 700 years ago. During these tours they will discuss the Native Americans who built and used the enclosure and see some of the artifacts recovered by archaeologists. The tours begin inside the Taylor Center of Natural History and include a short stroll to the village site.

Native American Storytelling
El Paso, TX

December 9, 2023

Come join in for an evening of Native American Storytelling with Alex Mares. He will be sharing coyotes and the universe, the making of the moon stars, and other winter stories which are only told this time of the year.

Great American Indian Exposition Powwow
Richmond, VA

December 9, 2023

The event will feature dancers, vendors selling American Indian jewelry, and food. Hands-on arts and crafts classes for beading, dreamcatchers, and corn husk dolls will be available for a fee. Classes can be paid for at the gate or in advance.

The Thanksgiving Play by Larissa Fasthorse
Coral Gables, FL

December 8, 2023

GableStage presents the regional premiere of The Thanksgiving Play, a satire by Native American playwright Larissa Fasthorse. The play follows four characters as they attempt to write and perform a well-intentioned, historically accurate school play retelling the first Thanksgiving. With provocative questions around erasure and authorship of history, this comedy asks how we proceed when steadfast assumptions are disrupted.

Dowa:Kwe Dance Group
Albuquerque, NM

December 9, 2023

Celebrate the seasonal cycles through prayer, song, and dance with the Cultural Dance Program. Dances connect you to ancestors, community, and traditions while honoring gifts from the Creator. They ensure that life continues and connections to the past and future are reinforced. The Indian Pueblo Cultural Center is the only place in North America to offer cultural Native American dances every week, year-round.

NAYA Native Made Winter Marketplace
Portland, OR

December 9, 2023

Get your holiday shopping done and support local Native artists at the Native American Youth and Family Center’s Native Made Winter Marketplace. You’ll find beautiful jewelry, clothing, crafts, prints and much more. There will be upwards of 50 makers joining for this special event. 

Annual Holiday Market
Washington, CT

December 9, 2023

Shop for one-of-a-kind holiday gifts from local and Native American vendors selling crafts and jewelry. Take advantage of this time to meet and speak with artists while learning about contemporary Native American art and cultures. Stop by to purchase gourds, pottery, jewelry, rattles, artworks, flutes, and more.

It’s Happening Here
Lancaster, SC

December 8, 2023

Come join Terence Little Water, who will present the findings of the South Carolina Indian Affairs Commission and discuss what is being done to fight this rise in violence against Native Americans in South Carolina.

Spirit Horse Pipe Ceremony
Aiken, SC

December 11, 2023

This is a sacred Lakota ceremony that includes sacred songs, prayers, and drumming. There are additional features to include an opportunity to focus on healing for others with a short meditation. 

Flat-Stitch Jewelry Workshop
Washington, CT

December 10, 2023

In this wonderful workshop hosted by IAIS Educator Irene Norman (Mohawk descent), participants will decorate their very own flat-stitch studded earrings or lapel pins. Enjoy an afternoon making a unique gift for a special someone, or keep what you make to rock out on yourself. 

More Stories Like This

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Here’s What’s Going in Indian Country, November 30 —December 7
Multimedia Native American Art Exhibition, ‘Boundless,’ Opens at the Mead Art Museum

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Toppenish craft business closes after 52 years of supplying Indigenous artists

Toppenish craft business closes after 52 years of supplying Indigenous artists

TOPPENISH — Though the shelves at Hope Chest Crafts were almost empty, Jeannette York still found some good deals during a recent visit. She also enjoyed seeing the owners, Denice and Merlin Peterson.

“My mom’s been coming here for about 30 years. … It’s a really friendly place. My mom’s a big fabric buyer,” York said of Juanita York. Even after her mother was in an accident and had to use a walker, she kept going to Hope Chest Crafts when she could.

The Petersons asked about her mother, and Jeannette went to get her. Mother and daughter talked with the Petersons before hugs and well-wishes for their future as they retire and close the store on Dec. 15 after 52 years as a family-owned business.

“I’m going to miss it,” but “they’ve got to go have their fun, too,” Jeannette said.

A store-closing sale has drawn increasing numbers of customers to the craft store at 508 W. Second Ave. But many recent visitors, like Jeannette, also came to see the Petersons and tell them how much they’ve appreciated them over the years. 

“We love you guys,” Amy Blodgett told them after she and Rena McGeshick found their own deals and hugged the Petersons.

“We’re here all the time. It’s just a sad moment,” Amy said. “It was our candy store.”



Hope Chest Crafts

Hope Chest Crafts owners Denice Peterson, center, and Merlin Peterson, right, ring up customer Betty Carl during their store closing sale Tuesday, Dec. 5, 2023, in Toppenish, Wash.



Generations of artists

Hope Chest Crafts has been the “go-to place” of Indigenous people on the Yakama Reservation and in the region for fabrics and ribbon for wing dresses, ribbon shirts and other traditional attire, regalia and accessories. Generations of Indigenous artists have gone there for glass and plastic beads and other beading materials and tools, yarn and craft cord for wa’paas baskets and other items such as fringe, feathers and buckskin.

“We’ve listened over the years for what they need,” Denice said. Along with learning from their customers and stocking their store with what they sought along with all kinds of arts and crafts supplies and party decorations, greeting cards, books and more, the Petersons tried to keep prices low and quality high.



Hope Chest Crafts

The front of Hope Chest Crafts is pictured Tuesday, Dec. 5, 2023, in Toppenish, Wash.



They’re ready to leave the demands of running a small business, which has changed in recent years with supply chain frustrations and decreasing quality, Denice said. But they’ll miss the rich social life their cozy store has provided.

Sometimes people would come in seeking prayer — the Petersons’ faith is an important part of their lives — or offering prayer. One man who visited the same day as the Yorks stood with the Petersons and prayed for them and their future. All became emotional.

“We’re going to miss everybody, too. We’ve known generations,” Denice said.

Though they’re retiring, the Petersons aren’t moving. They will stay in their massive historic home, known as the Bolin mansion because it was built by Maud and Charles Bolin in 1911. The craft store has been attached to it since 1976.

Denice’s mother, Jeanne Winterfeld, is 94 and lives next to the mansion. Jeanne and Bob Winterfeld bought the craft store’s predecessor, Hope Chest Variety Store in Toppenish, in 1971. They had been married 69 years when he died in November 2020.

The Winterfelds married in Medina, Ohio. How did they end up in Toppenish?

“He just was adventurous,” Denice said of her dad.



Hope Chest Crafts

Hope Chest Crafts customer Betty Carl walks around the store during their closing sale Tuesday, Dec. 5, 2023, in Toppenish, Wash.



Midwestern transplants

Adventurous indeed. For those who grow up east of the Mississippi River, the western half of the United States can seem like another country, vast and obscured by mythology. Bob Winterfeld was born in Ohio, graduated from high school there and left to serve in the U.S. Army during the Korean War. After coming home he worked for several years as a technical writer in engineering for General Motors in Cleveland, writing manuals for military vehicles.

As he and Jeanne’s family grew to include six children, Bob kept adding on to their house, which he constructed. He was “an avid do-it-yourselfer,” according to his obituary, and was fondly known as “build-it Bob,” his daughter said.

His expertise with a skill saw came in handy after he and Jeanne and their kids fit as many carefully chosen belongings as they could into a big panel truck and headed from Valley City, which is near Cleveland, to Toppenish in the summer of 1971.

They needed a big house and build-it Bob saw opportunities in the Bolin mansion. His obituary describes it as “the ultimate fixer-upper,” and some may have called that an understatement. While grand in size and silhouette, the massive house made of molded concrete blocks had sat empty for several years and had suffered vandalism, broken pipes, ruined plaster and other structural and architectural indignities.

“‘Pioneer’ family roughs it in Toppenish’s Bolin mansion,” headlined a story about their “giant renovating project” in a September 1971 Toppenish Review. It’s among many newspaper clippings, photos and other ephemera about the Bolin mansion filling a large scrapbook.

The Winterfelds worked to make the mansion their home as they began running the Hope Chest Variety Store. Bob had learned from a national real estate firm that Gil Burns was selling it. The information made it sound like the buyer would get the variety store business and its building, Denice said. It sounded like a great deal.



Hope Chest Crafts

An advertisement for Hope Chest Crafts grand opening in 1976 sits in a scrapbook in the store Tuesday, Dec. 5, 2023, in Toppenish, Wash.



Turned out that the Winterfelds bought only the business. But they liked Toppenish and settled into that business with friendly enthusiasm. It began with “get-acquainted specials” on inflatable pools (While They Last!) with a 40-by-8-inch pool costing 99 cents and a 60-by-12-inch pool available for $1.99, according to a July 1971 newspaper advertisement saved with many others in another scrapbook.

“A Variety Store For A Variety of People. Everything For Babies And So Much More!!” a December 1971 newspaper ad declared. “Arts & Crafts — A Special Section! Baby Furniture — Largest Selection In The Lower Valley. Miscellaneous — A Lot Of Many Things!!”

Bob and Jeanne decided in the mid-1970s to split Hope Chest Variety Store into the variety store and an arts and crafts store. He built an addition to the back of the Bolin mansion to house Hope Chest Crafts, using molded concrete blocks similar to those used for the house and installing a small parking lot.

Hope Chest Crafts opened in 1976.

“The craft part of the business was really growing. It was macrame and decoupage — I did lots of classes in macrame,” Denice said. There was also tole painting, chenille and fake fur animals and cool cross-stitching, among other groovy popular crafts of the 1970s.

The variety store stayed in its downtown location, but not for long. It closed in late 1977 after the building sold.

‘Good luck you guys’

Hope Chest Crafts became a community destination. Jeanne wrote a “Crafty Corner” column for the Toppenish Review, the store offered lessons galore and the Winterfelds sent newsletters with information about classes, demonstrations and other special events.

“We wish to thank all who participated and also appreciated the nice comments many had about our store,” the January 1979 newsletter said, naming winners of the store’s second anniversary drawing. “We will continue to try our best to supply your craft needs with quality merchandise at the lowest possible price.”

One memorable evening, Hope Chest Crafts hosted two large craft groups simultaneously in a “midnight madness” event. People didn’t leave until about 2 a.m., Merlin said. 

Merlin joined the Peterson family when he and Denice married on Dec. 17, 1983. They raised their two daughters in the Bolin mansion. Both served in the military. Beaded medallions with their branches of service hang on Christmas trees inside the house, along with other beadwork given to them by friends.

There are so many friends. Over and over, they offered well-wishes and hugs. Good luck you guys, they said. God bless you.

“We enjoyed all of you,” Merlin said. “Thank you for coming all these years,” Denice added.

The Petersons aren’t sure what they will do with the craft store space. As for retirement adventures, no cruises for them. “We’re just more into the hiking. Washington is beautiful,” she said.

LAND OF EXTREMES: Native Voices | Native Truths: A Contemporary Experience

LAND OF EXTREMES: Native Voices | Native Truths: A Contemporary Experience

Exhibit development and design plays a pivotal role in museums worldwide. Throughout the development process, consideration is given to community interests and needs. It is also essential that exhibitions not only reflect the communities in which they are located, but also actively highlight and raise awareness for those who have been historically and traditionally marginalized, particularly within the museum space. This approach ensures that museums serve as inclusive and representative spaces that contribute to a more diverse and equitable cultural narrative.

On January 27, 2024, IVDM will open its first Indigenous Art Exhibition, Native Voices | Native Truths: A Contemporary Experience, celebrating local indigenous artists and their unique perspectives!

Crafting Change – An Inclusive Approach

Centering indigenous voices is at the heart of this exhibition. In order to ensure equitable representation during the selection process, IVDM worked with a diverse selection committee, composed of representatives from IVDM and respected indigenous artists and scholars throughout Southern California. This approach brought together different perspectives and expertise, as well as prioritized the artists and their personal experiences.

The committee included enrolled member of the Kumeyaay tribal nation, Director of the Board and Professor of Native Kumeyaay language, history, arts and culture at Kumeyaay Community College, Dr. Stan Rodríguez, Comanche artist/painter and tenure track Professor of the American Indian Studies department at California State University San Marcos, Dr. Eric Tippeconnic, enrolled member and artist of the Gabrielino/Tongva Nation, Acjachemen, and Mexican, and project coordinator of the California Indian Culture and Sovereignty Center, Monica Zavala, and San Diego native and member of San Pasqual Kumeyaay band, artist Johnny Bear Contreras.

Calling all Creatives

To foster engagement with the local community, the IVDM initiated an open call in September, inviting indigenous artists across Southern California and Northern Baja California to participate. This proactive approach not only encourages collaboration but also ensures the representation and celebration of indigenous art and culture within IVDM. Utilized at numerous organizations, “open calls” are public announcements or invitations, inviting artists to submit their work for consideration. The purpose of an open call is to engage with the artistic community, as well as select artworks for exhibitions or other opportunities.

With the selection committee, IVDM chose 17 local indigenous artists to exhibit their work for the exhibitions. The approximately 40+ works IVDM will be showcasing throughout the exhibition include a variety of mediums such as painting, ceramics, photography, creative writing and poetry, and more!

Installing a Space

Exhibit installation is a critical phase in the development of any exhibition, ensuring that the content is presented effectively, accurately represents the works submitted, and actively engages visitors to the Museum. This is a massive undertaking, requiring open communication and dialogue between the artists and curator. This not only lays the groundwork for a smooth installation process, but also makes certain that the stories and perspectives the artists wish to share are displayed in line with their vision.

The installation process includes arranging exhibit elements in a way that facilitates a logical flow, establishing a coherent narrative, and creating aesthetic views for the audience. Curators pay attention to the placement of each item, while also ensuring their safety and preservation, as well as properly lighting and installing the works. By carefully addressing these aspects during exhibit installation, museums enhance the overall quality of the exhibition and create a positive and memorable experience for the artists and visitors alike!

Visions Unveiled

To learn more about exhibit installation and support local indigenous art, join IVDM Staff and artists for their exhibit opening on January 27th, 2024 from 6:00-9:00 p.m. Native Voices | Native Truths: A Contemporary Experience features 17 local indigenous artists from 12 different tribes, celebrating and highlighting their voices and perspectives!

To complement the exhibition, up and coming local restaurant Ursa will be hosting a Pop-Up dinner at IVDM on Friday, January 26, 2024 at 6:00 p.m. Tickets include a five-course tasting menu and selected drinks!

The Imperial Valley Desert Museum is located in Ocotillo, California. It is open Wednesdays through Sundays from 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Naiomi Glasses’s Ralph Lauren Collab Is All About ‘Indigenous Excellence’

Naiomi Glasses’s Ralph Lauren Collab Is All About ‘Indigenous Excellence’

Naiomi Glasses’s connection to Ralph Lauren goes back years. When she was a kid, the seventh-generation Diné (Navajo) textile artist’s mother dressed her in the brand. When she was a teenager making trips from Dinétah (Navajo Nation) to Phoenix, she’d stop by RL’s store in the city to search through the assortment of vintage native jewelry in hopes of finding something to add to her own collection.

“I would go around looking at the cases and say, ‘Oh, these pieces are so beautiful,’” she says. “And I would think, ‘It would be so cool to one day curate the pieces that go in here.’ But that’s as far as that dreaming went.”

Until, that is, Glasses decided to turn her love of weaving—fostered in large part by her late grandmother, Nellie—into a full-time gig. Her “business-minded” parents wanted to be sure that she’d be able to support herself as an artist, she says. “They were like, ‘You can’t really make a living if you do weaving how Grandma did, where you take in one weaving a month to the trading posts.’”

polo ralph lauren x naiomi glasses campaign

Looks from the first of three releases in the Polo Ralph Lauren x Naiomi Glasses collaboration.

Ryan RedCorn and Daryn Sells

She told them she’d do design work—extend the enterprise to floor rugs, blankets, maybe even clothing. So, they asked her to make a list of potential clothing brands she’d want to work with. “At the top of the list was Ralph Lauren,” Glasses says, laughing a little at the memory.

There is, indeed, something funny about hearing this story when you consider the context. Glasses and I are in the brand’s New York headquarters, standing in front of an artfully arranged display of in shades of tan, beige, and brown and punctuated by splashes of red. There are chunky pullovers and embroidered jeans. Jacquard jackets and belted cardigans. A western shirt embellished with turquoise-tinted snaps. They feature Spider Woman and four-directional crosses. Saltillo diamonds. Wedge weave motifs. Some are made from undyed sheep’s wool. These are hallmarks of Navajo weaving in general and of Glasses’s work specifically. And that’s because all of them were created in a collaboration between Polo Ralph Lauren and Glasses, RL’s very first .

polo ralph lauren x naiomi glasses campaign

Glasses (center) with her mother Cynthia, brother and fellow weaver Tyler Jr., and father Tyler Sr.

Ryan RedCorn and Daryn Sells

The endeavor began more than two years ago, when the Ralph Lauren team reached out to Glasses to let her know that they were considering working with her. She was excited, but wary of getting her hopes up. “A lot of times these companies, they come up with a proposal and then don’t follow through,” she says. Not so this time around. Within months, a contract was drawn up. Then Glasses was flying to New York to meet the design team—the first of many trips supplemented by near-constant Zoom calls. “I was deeply embedded within those design teams, able to tell them little nuances that I wanted in there,” she says.

The result was an overabundance of ideas. “When I was doing the design process with their in-house illustrator, we were just coming up with designs, designs, designs,” Glasses says. “I was like, ‘I want to see this, I want to see this.’ It’s a dream come true, so I’m going to throw out every idea that I can think of.” In the end, by her count, they’d created more than 200 designs.

polo ralph lauren x naiomi glasses campaign

The sweeping “great ranch coat” is a standout from the collection.

Ryan RedCorn and Daryn Sells

After winnowing that down to 60 or so favorites and realizing that they still had a lot of options on their hands, the team decided to split things up into three releases. The first arrived this week, with the second and third to follow in spring and fall of 2024, respectively.

“It feels like my own weaving journey,” Glasses says of the progression from the first to the third release. “Because I started weaving with neutrals first. Then I worked my way into working with bright colors, which is going to be the next drop. And then I really fell in love with the color blue and indigos, the different shades of indigos that you can get. So that’s going to be the third collection.”

polo ralph lauren x naiomi glasses campaign

In a full-circle moment, Glasses curated the jewelry showcased in the campaign.

Ryan RedCorn and Daryn Sells

The project is a big step for a young artist—Glasses is only 26—but for an established brand like Ralph Lauren, too. The company has long been inspired by the motifs in Navajo weaving, “and I think it’s incredible to see exactly how it can go from something as dull as inspiration and then be born into something that’s as beautiful as a collaboration,” Glasses says. “To see the bright colors and to see it from an indigenous person’s perspective of what they see their designs as.”

The campaign that accompanies the first collection’s release is an extension of that perspective, one that Glasses says “highlights the indigenous excellence behind the scenes and in front of the camera.” Photos were shot by Ryan RedCorn (Osage) and Daryn Sells (Diné/Navajo), with behind-the-scenes video from Lonnie Begaye (Diné/Navajo). Shaandiin Tome (Diné/Navajo) created an accompanying short film. And the cast features indigenous models as well as Glasses and her family.

polo ralph lauren x naiomi glasses campaign

Working with Ralph Lauren is, “something dreams are made of,” Glasses says.

Ryan RedCorn and Daryn Sells

“It’s been beautiful seeing it come together. And I’m really excited to see what doors this will open for other indigenous artists after me,” Glasses says. “Because as indigenous people, we’re all going to lift each other up. And even with that, I wanted to uplift other artists along with me in this drop.”

Part of that effort, as it happens, brings everything back to Glasses’s teenage years and those days spent searching through the vintage native jewelry. As part of the campaign, she curated her own assortment of jewelry, sourcing handcrafted silver and turquoise pieces from six artisan families from the Navajo Nation, Hopi Pueblo, San Felipe Pueblo, and Zuni Pueblo. Select pieces will be available to purchase online and in stores. Call it a full-circle moment.

For Glasses, it’s rewarding—and a relief to finally go public with the project after all this time and effort. But it’s also still a little surreal. “There are moments where I just have to take it all in and be like, ‘That’s your name right next to Ralph Lauren’s on the tag,’” she says. “It’s something dreams are made of, really.”

Headshot of Jonathan Evans

Jonathan Evans is the style director of Esquire, covering all things fashion, grooming, accessories, and, of course, sneakers. He lives in Brooklyn with his wife and son. You can follow him at @MrJonathanEvans on Twitter and Instagram.

Shop for holiday gifts from Native artists at Lloyd Center

Shop for holiday gifts from Native artists at Lloyd Center

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NAYA’s Native Made Marketplace will be going on at the Lloyd Center on Dec. 9-10. Dozens of Native artists will be selling jewelry, clothing and crafts.